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View Full Version : In-Line Heater for Water Supply?



snickle
03-04-2007, 10:14 PM
To make my 90G a easy to maitain as possible, I ran a water supply line from down stairs, though a filter and up to a valve in the cabinet. Makes adding water easy. I also ran a drain line down to the laundry basin. I can gravel vac and do water changes on the tank now very easily.

Only problem is my tap water is coming in at 45 degrees right now. That causes big tempo swings in the tank. I can control it by adding water to the sump and letting it heat up before pumping it up, but still a pain.

I was thinking of adding an in-line heater to the water feed after the filter.

The Hydor ETH-300 looks like it might work.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Mgamer20o0
03-04-2007, 10:59 PM
that will help but its not like its going to get that much warmer.

dmopar74
03-04-2007, 11:26 PM
that wont work, it wont heat the water fast enough.

Educatedthug
03-04-2007, 11:59 PM
I have kinda the same set up you have I have an electric blast heater will take water from 45 to 80 all day long i got it at a bar that was closing it was for a dish washer i can take a picture for you i know you can get kinda the same thing al menards or lowes....

Educatedthug
03-05-2007, 7:03 AM
It heats the water as it passes threw looks to be about 2 gallon of holding tank I can set it so water coming threw is always 79 to 80

loaches r cool
03-05-2007, 9:47 PM
I have briefly thought about how to plumb in a cold water line and get the temp up... I haven’t really seen any inline heaters bigger than that 300W you mentioned. But if you run your cold water through a lifeguard thermo module (http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp19168/si1380626/cl0/pentairaquaticsdoubleheatermodule) (the medium module is good for heaters up to 22", longer and you need the larger module),then you can put whatever heater you want in it. But still the biggest commonly available heater is the 400W Hydor Theo (http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18534/si1382464/cl0/hydortheosubmersibleheater400watt) so your not gaining much. But it should work if you slow the flow rate down, how much flow I dont know. You could also increase the wattage in your sump. An inline heater will get it close, then some high wattage heaters in the sump will take care of the rest. It doesn’t hurt to put bigger heaters in the sump. As long as you dont overload the circuit it just means the heaters wont stay on as long. Just brainstorming ideas.

Mgamer20o0
03-06-2007, 1:09 AM
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87601&highlight=diy

maybe you should check this out.

loaches r cool
03-06-2007, 1:48 PM
Yeah, I was going to do something similar myself. But what I wasnt sure of is the chlorine/chloromine removal. He hinted at a filter but didnt elaborate, for all I know it could have been a mechanical filter:



Water -> (filter) -> Aged Water Barrel -> Tank -> Overflow -> Drain/Sink/Lawn

He didnt show the 'filter' in any way that I could tell what it was. I suppose aeration alone might reduce chlorine levels but wont do crap for chloromine. I suppose I need to figure out what I am dealing with as far as chlorine vs chloromine.

snickle
03-06-2007, 2:04 PM
I think I will go with a Ariston 4G mini water heater. It is adjustable in temperature from 65 to 145. It recovers quickly so the net result of a 25% water change should be negligable temperature change, if I set the heater aout 2 degrees over my tank temperature.

snickle
03-06-2007, 2:05 PM
I did find plans on ebay for a tank-less water heater. It would work fine, but I can't find a water heater thermostat that goes under 90 degrees.