Zebra cichlids

AndrewMack

AC Members
Jan 17, 2006
462
0
0
Fleming Island FL
Well I have a pair male/female Albino zebras in my 55g and I want to add at least two more females. Was wanting to know how to tell the Red zebra and cobalt blue male and female. Is it the same as pretty much all other Mbunas. Females typically have less then 3 egg spots and a longer broader forehead? Im wanting to add a Red zebra and cobalt blue female to this already breeding pair.
 
Anyone? Also with my current stock of One Senegal bichir, one Zamora(4.5" max) and Two zebras now how many more zebras and yellow labs can I add? all females of course If i can figure out how to identify the zebra and yellow lab females. I may add one more bichir but am undecided. For filtration Im using AC110, Fluval305 two media baskets have filter floss and one has biomax, and I have an aqua tech 5 stuffed with biomax/
 
Last edited:
Its my understanding that the most effective way of sexing Zebras is venting.
 
Thats great but i have no idea what Venting is. For all my other Mbuna cichlids ive always looked for Eggs spots on the anal fin, and a broader head. in my expierence males have a high forhead(hard to imagine huh) and 3+ egg spots. Im not sure about the Zebra cichlids, even though they are a Mbuna I wanted to make sure. And wanted to find out how many females I can add with my current stock and filtration. Ill be adding a large piece of driftwood this week and I plan on buying 3 or more silver dollars within the next month
 
I'm not exactly sure bichir's are compatible (in the long run) with zebras, but let me get to your question. Zebras do better in all-mbuna tanks (or at least their tank mates do).

Eggspots on zebras aren't indicative of gender. I have a female red zebra with at least eight eggspots (she's produced fry before so no question as to her gender).

Red zebra males tend to develop a lighter coloration (more pink-orange than 'carrot orange'). Additionally their bodies may have a blue sheen, and their fins, particularly the dorsal, have distinctive blue hues.

Cobalts are a little harder to determine (at least for me).

Venting is determining gender by the physically inspecting the reproductive openings/area of the fish.

With both species (reds and cobalts) though, males typically have pointed dorsal and anal fin tips (as opposed to the more rounded find ends of the females). Keep in mind that sub-adult males may 'appear' to be females (which means gender determination among juvies is even a harder task).

Some may say the risk of creating hybrid zebras is considerably increased when you keep several zebra species together, though I have yet to experience this in my tank (I have reds, a cobalt and some BB 'chilumba's [see avatar] in the same tank and the species ignore each other), perhaps due the the sex ratio I maintain them in.

Are the silver dollars intended for this tank or a separate tank?
 
a zebra is not a zebra...meaning that crossing an albino and a red or cobalt will produce a hybrid, which is bad. If you add to your breeding group, add more albino zebras from the source of the originals. If you knew what species the albinos were, you could add non-albino specimens. However, that's usually tough.

typically mbuna will fight/investigate other non-cichilds, which usually harms/kills them. The bichir might be ok, but also might get killed. Most people who know what they're doing only keep mbuna and don't mix them with other species. This is especially true for soft water fish like silver dollars that are skiddish and do not compete well with mbuna. It sounds like you're getting the noah's ark syndrome and are mixing fish that won't coexist well together. just my .02, anyway.
 
AquariaCentral.com