I need to begin research on which SPS corals and few other species of corals [Archive]

OldManOfTheSea

03-27-2007, 8:36 AM

Now I would like to get myself a stocking list of corals together prior to two reef aquariums being completed, for which the electrical work was finally done not too long ago. I'm too have mostly SPS corals with clams and two pair of dwarf eels. I am thinking as well that I will have a small number of soft corals as well as few others.

The lights be on these tanks are 250 watts MH which three are on the 180 and four are on the 240. The idea be that I should be able to manage any coral that requires stronger lighting. With all the lights, VHO and so, I not have the complete figures on them, that also I will ask the lfs owner to give me on paper so that I will have what's my total lighting be.

As well, much later on I will ask him too email me each tanks be with equipment and lights, etc>

I have a large number of corals in which im to get back into the research too better decide on what I might have or disregard that coral. I not know a lot with the SPS corals, also I wish to manage on having a variety of colors, that's so the tanks not look green only, LOL

I will ,now be open to suggestions and I will give a list that I was to start some two years ago research on, but was cut short due to the many delays in when these tanks might begin to start stocking with corals>

Montipora Cap Purple
Acropora Millepora Raspberry
Blastomussa wellsi - Fire Red
Blastomussa Merletti
Orange Digitata
Superman Monti
Pink Cotton Pillow
Tortuosa
OrangeRicordia (Ricordia florida)
Purple Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)
Green Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Turbinaria Ruffled Ridge Coral (Turbinaria sp.)
Stylophora Coral (Stylophora spp.)
Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Brown Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Orange Montipora Encrusting Coral (Montipora nodosus)
Montipora Branched Coral (Montipora digitata) Pink, Purple
Porites Coral Yellow (Porites spp.)
Color Tip Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors
Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream
Pocillopora Cauliflower Coral (Pocillopora damicornis) Pink
Leaf Plate Montipora Coral (Montipora capricornis) Orange, Pink, Purple
Neon Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors

I don't wish to paste in this post with all the names that I have in a number of word pads. Also, I need to begin now in this reading and research in the decision to which corals I would give in a printout to my LFS> For as well, I'm more and more with the kids and will not have all the time I once did for this research thing. So anything one can suggest of a type of coral, as well, I would also need to add here that I would love to have some rare type of coral many not have. I do pray that its understood in what im looking to do here :) And one thing to notice here is that SPS corals will dominate these tanks. Thanks in advance :)

Buddy

Mr.Firemouth

03-27-2007, 10:00 AM

OMOTS,
Your tank will be very impressive if you can handle this! here are the things I would suggest is...
1. Scrap the lighting ideas if you haven't bought them yet and upgrade to 400w lamps. You will get way better results in a SPS dominated tank with 400w lamps.
2. Make sure the filter design incorporates a refugium where chaetomorpha caulerpa can grow. This will aid with nutrient control.
3. Make sure you are planning on a virtual cyclone of current within the system. SPS love maximum current!!!
4. Purchase at least 2 phosphate reactors and run activated carbon in one and phosphate resins in the other. Use an iron oxide resin. Replace every 30 days!!!
5. somewhere in the filter design you will need either a deep sand bed or a plenum. You need some way to reduce nitrates.
6. For your plans the bigger the skimmer the better. Nutrient export is the most important thing with these corals.
7. Quarantine system. You need a smaller setup strictly for QT. If you assemble this list of corals and don't QT every single coral purchase for 30 days you are crazy! I have seen time after time systems lose 50-75% of their SPS because of AEFW/redbugs/nudibranchs. This is the most important thing!!!
8. A calcium reactor isn't necessary but some kind of calcium dosing unit is. Whether you use a reactor or a 2-part additive, ALK and CA must be maintained along with Mg. I strongly suggest a kalk reactor or the addition of kalk to your make up water reservoir. This will aid in the precipitate of phosphates.
9. Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.
10. Make sure you can control the temp. 400w lamps will effect temp and a chiller may be necessary...1/2hp if you need one.

This by no means the only way to go but these suggestions will help greatly!
HTH,Rich

Germanman

03-27-2007, 12:04 PM

Mr.Firemouth

03-27-2007, 12:07 PM

Just trying to help. IMO, SPS tanks are the big boy leagues! The margin for error and the size tanks he is talking about equal thousands of dollars! You really need to start right with that kind of investment!

Germanman

03-27-2007, 12:10 PM

OldManOfTheSea

03-27-2007, 1:13 PM

I was told by many when I was to have 250 watts MH, and the lfs has put in 175 instead that I told the person that in no way will 175 watts MH cut it. Also that before I had my RC membership revoked, the question on the lights was ask there and most agree that 250 is good enough. I not know right now on how often im to change this bulbs, but I will begin the change of bulbs ahead of schedule as well the normal thing about changing one bulb every two weeks in order not to cause much stress. And yes, the light are paid for, just not have the 250 just yet.

I do have the electrical currents to handle it, only I not how much more that it will be to move it up a knot. I will talk again to Jeff and look to do this, for as well, im to have everything that these tanks will need in a engineering crew (clean up crew).

I not remember the name of these pumps for the tank water currents, but I was told that just two of them would do it all in the 240> I will make clear everything in name as this moves a long ;)

I am planning on phosphate reactors for these tanks as well, will be added at some later date.

On the 240, I will run light on the sump to have micro algae to help battle nutrients>

I will have calcium reactors, I a dosing two part system when was soft corals, and I not mind spending the money to have something better and as it be, I cannot take the money with me when its my time :)

I think I mentioned that I a 40 gal breeder for a QT for the fish before going into the main tanks, and after the tanks are completed with live stock, the 40 will go through a major change that the sump and skimmer and lights will are be done over to house corals, and even a chiller later will be added to this>

I do know and understand that ALK and CA as well as the Ph needs to be maintained>

I a five stage RO/DI unit> It was normally a four stage unit>

The margin for error and the size tanks he is talking about equal thousands of dollars!

That is why I said in the thread of TOTM that I not know what to expect that is I will have a thriving tanks in a number of years, I will do all I need to do in maintaining and spending>
I will however be able to answer you better then this, for im in a bit of a rush to feed the eels for I need to be over at the other house for the kids> I did say that I will have little time and when I the time will do all the :read: that I can.

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea

03-27-2007, 11:45 PM

Your tank will be very impressive if you can handle this! here are the things I would suggest is...
That's tanks, two of them and I know they will look impressive, im thinking about the corals thriving for the long term>

Scrap the lighting ideas if you haven't bought them yet and upgrade to 400w lamps. You will get way better results in a SPS dominated tank with 400w lamps.
You see what happen is this: The owner put in 175 watts due to that I not had the electrical wall outlets to handle anything larger then 175 and still the connections would be run from outlets further away from the tanks themselves. The answer that was giving to me why he put in 175 is that he wanted to save me some money. And then I reminded him that did he ever see me worried about spending way too much and he said no.

So then he be now putting in sometime the 250, but I will talk to him to go with 400 for I agree with you totally on that be best needed. He said that to change to the 250, the cost be only $250 which is paid for. I will get the cost difference to go with 400 watts MH. I did told him that I wanted 400 and I gotten from many that the 250 is good.

I did at RC seen a number of SPS tanks with 250 and I not know how long those tanks been setup and all, only they appeared to look great. Also, that some have 250 and 400 watts MH together, I should go strictly with 400 watts mh? I will have three on the 180 with four on the 240.

I do hope that you understood much on how I managed to said it>

Make sure the filter design incorporates a refugium where chaetomorpha caulerpa can grow. This will aid with nutrient control.
At the store, they done something like this I think with their 144 display reef tank, that they grow algae in the refugium, I will take pics of it to show you later this week when im to go out there to take a number of fish pictures, they supposed to be big bucks, worth>

Make sure you are planning on a virtual cyclone of current within the system. SPS love maximum current!!!
That is one thing that I do know of with SPS corals, The pump I still not remember the name of, that maybe you might know that the water rushes through a wider pump, if you not know this, I will get the name on this as we when out there.

Purchase at least 2 phosphate reactors and run activated carbon in one and phosphate resins in the other. Use an iron oxide resin. Replace every 30 days!!!
I said I think im planning on the phosphate reactors as the tanks age after cycling, I will tell the guy to get these a number of months after the cycle and age. I was thinking more to have those by the 5th or 6th month> I was thinking of running some short of carbon, but I was more of thinking to use it in the sump itself. Something tells me that that's a bad idea, I a red flag that went up in my thoughts, funny it is, LOL

somewhere in the filter design you will need either a deep sand bed or a plenum. You need some way to reduce nitrates.
What are your thoughts on the nitrate reactor, are they any good? This if is good idea, I would get these in the first few months >

For your plans the bigger the skimmer the better. Nutrient export is the most important thing with these corals.
HO-HO I planed nothing better then the ER (Euro Reefs) I not remember the model number, the ER for the 240 cost $1,000 and it is more suited for a 450 gal tank I think.

Quarantine system. You need a smaller setup strictly for QT. If you assemble this list of corals and don't QT every single coral purchase for 30 days you are crazy! I have seen time after time systems lose 50-75% of their SPS because of AEFW/redbugs/nudibranchs. This is the most important thing!!!

A hitchhiker is always a concern, I think that I will look to do it this way, that is if he the lighting and space for it. That Jeff will get me a number of corals every two moths are so and will house them as the only inhabitants of the tank they be in. That the store clerks when passing will look to notice if any uninvited hitchhikers. That they would remain in this tank for 30 days to be sure that are is safe from any hitchhikers. If this is a problem, I will tell him that he can charge me boarding fees.

Its funny for you to mention that, I did have that exact kind of concern, LOL

A calcium reactor isn't necessary but some kind of calcium dosing unit is. Whether you use a reactor or a 2-part additive, ALK and CA must be maintained along with Mg. I strongly suggest a kalk reactor or the addition of kalk to your make up water reservoir. This will aid in the precipitate of phosphates.
Along with the reactors, I will dose the reservoir with every refill when needed with (ESV) Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser powder)>

Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.
I have to admit that I not know fully in what you mean, As well, did have the thought to run carbon in the sump which now Im getting a red flag popping up in my mind :)

Make sure you can control the temp. 400w lamps will effect temp and a chiller may be necessary...1/2hp if you need one.
I have chillers on all my tanks except the QT, which later when the QT be not needed as much, the 40 will go through many changes in its equipment and lights and that a chiller will be added to it. As well, I know that the temp with 400 watts MH will most certainly become effected :) im thinking to reset the temp at 77F, the summers get to hot here in NC during the summer.

Also I canopies which I had custom build>

Buddy

PS, I spent almost four hours to do the quotes and what were my remarks to your views :look:

Mr.Firemouth

03-28-2007, 8:10 AM

Buddy,
you have a great plan...thanks for taking the time to respond...

I do hope that you understood much on how I managed to said it>

I do understand completely...

I should go strictly with 400 watts mh? I will have three on the 180 with four on the 240.
Yes, all 400w Reeflux 12k will look best. Single Ended(SE) bulbs. Change every 6-9 months.

That is one thing that I do know of with SPS corals, The pump I still not remember the name of, that maybe you might know that the water rushes through a wider pump, if you not know this, I will get the name on this as we when out there.

Tunze makes the best for the money. A wave box is also another option. Check the Tunze website.

I said I think im planning on the phosphate reactors as the tanks age after cycling, I will tell the guy to get these a number of months after the cycle and age. I was thinking more to have those by the 5th or 6th month> I was thinking of running some short of carbon, but I was more of thinking to use it in the sump itself. Something tells me that that's a bad idea, I a red flag that went up in my thoughts, funny it is, LOL
NO, set this up immediately and don't let any DOC/PHOSPHATES accumalate at all! If you do your sand bed and live rock will work like a sponge and store these nutrients. They will be harder to remove later. Trust me here and avoid algae blooms, diatoms, and cyanobacteria by setting up the reactors first!!!

What are your thoughts on the nitrate reactor, are they any good? This if is good idea, I would get these in the first few months >

Sulpur denitrators work but need to be fed. They are innefficient IMO. A plenumn system works the best long term. Deep sand beds work but store nutrients so over time you need to replace like 1/3 the bed every 3 months until it is completely replaced. I am talking years down the road. I have seen plenumn system 8 and 10 years old that are phenomanal. Chaeto and a large skimmer also help.

HO-HO I planed nothing better then the ER (Euro Reefs) I not remember the model number, the ER for the 240 cost $1,000 and it is more suited for a 450 gal tank I think.

I recommend the MRC skimmer line for your application. Look at this link...
http://www.myreefcreations.com/psstandard-r.htm

Pay attention to the 48" MR-6R skimmer for $875 this is the best skimmer for your sps application and can handle both tanks if you plumb them together, which I recommend to make your system equivalently over 500gallons. This is a phenomanal skimmer with an awesome amount of contact time within the reaction tube which will make it very efficient. It will require to pumps. This company will recommend the correct pumps.

Along with the reactors, I will dose the reservoir with every refill when needed with (ESV) Calcium Hydroxide (Kalkwasser powder)>

Mrs.Wages Pickling Lime is the same thing at the grocery store...use this instead. I hate when corparations take advantage of hobbyists.

Quote:
Upgrade your water filtration unit to include RO/MICRON/2 CARBON BLOCKS/2 DI RESIN CHAMBERS and a pump to get p.s.i. upto 80+p.s.i. Source water must be low in TDS.

I have to admit that I not know fully in what you mean, As well, did have the thought to run carbon in the sump which now Im getting a red flag popping up in my mind

I am referring to your RO unit for your water supply. It is important on a SPS system that the water be as pure as possible and have next to zero TDS(total dissolved solids)
Here is a pic of mine...
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/SUPER180/RO.jpg

PS, I spent almost four hours to do the quotes and what were my remarks to your views
This will get easier and faster, thanks.
Rich

Reefscape

03-28-2007, 8:27 AM

Mr Firemouth,

Just think that a little bit gratitude goes to you for making all this effort on this this thread. it would not be this comprehensive if you had not made all that effort..

Thanks

Niko

Mr.Firemouth

03-28-2007, 9:54 AM

Thanks Niko. I really want him to succeed!

Reefscape

03-28-2007, 10:15 AM

we all do matey, thats why we do it..aint it

Niko

OldManOfTheSea

03-28-2007, 11:28 AM

Again, i hope this turns out right in the way I meant it too :eek:

I always know of the cost on lighting and bulbs replacement. I'm what I consider am at the near end of my hobby years, If I 10 or 20 years more I no clue, but I like to be able to say up in aquarium heaven that I do most anything one could mention within a marine aquarium system. And yes, I did sharks & rays and OOPS, I not done one other thing, seahorses :( OK I be missing one one that I not done, lol

The 175 MH that are in right now are Single Ended and I figure he be putting in the 250 MH with Single End as well, Now I will speak with him on doing it with 400 MH.

Tunze, Yes! that is the pumps I was trying to get the name out for and I know that it is a great pump as well.

I am concern of phosphates from food feedings, I will tell my LFS guy to do this once he changes the lights on both tanks and the sump on the 240>
On the nitrate reactors is always what I heard about it, I just wanted to hear it from you>

On the DSB issue, I figured that 3" and in some areas its 2" or less, what is your ideal depth for these type of tanks?

I'm sure that the skimmer link which you provided are excellent skimmers, but here we a problem on skimmer height due to that the stand which were made for the 240, the people who build it made it that the be only 24" under the stand.

Also under the tank, a small area will be cut out from the ceiling over the sump to allow the skimmer to fit. I not any area where I can run a life line to the tank and have the skimmer elsewhere for im no room for it.

Now I owned the ER skimmers for a good number of years, and not had any problems due too them not doing all that I brought them for, I one ER skimmer on a two tank system, a 70 & 130 gal tanks with a 40 gal sump.
My RO unit is the Kent Marine that comes as a four stage unit and this includes the membrane, I added the additional cartage of the Kent marine Hi-S> The unit is better called as Hi-S Maxxima which produces 60 gpd. I added the second cartridge of silicamax Hi-S DI cartridge. If you believe that I should add another stage to this, to have a second carbon block filter, I would> At least that cartridge is a little less in cost then the other, LOL

With all the cost I put into these tanks, One has to have a sense of humor about it :)

I called the LFS not too long ago, asking of the difference in cost to change from 250 to 400 watts MH. The 250 MH aren`t in as yet>

Mr.Firemouth

03-28-2007, 12:15 PM

You want to run the DI CARTRIDGE in series like in my pic to get the absolute lowest TDS. It makes a difference. A standard household kitchen filter used as a prefilter increases filter life in the unit overall.(look to the far left of my pic) The booster pump increases efficiency of the RO membrane by80%. If your plumbing isn't above 65p.s.i. then install the pump.

2-4 inches of sand will work for denitrification. I use 3+" The bottom layers is 1" miracle mud product from Kent not Eco-systems. The iron in the mud feeds sulphate oxidizing bacteria in the bottom of the sand bed and this causes the effectiveness of the bed. That is why systems with the mud work so well.(when properly maintained)

No matter what skimmer you use go with a Recirc model to increase contact(dwell)time within the reaction chamber. Also, if the pumps are upgradeable then use the largest pump the manufacturer recommends. These are all venturi/beckkett style skimmers so the faster the water pumps thru the better the injectors work. Make sure you ask about the largest pump for the skimmer you choose.

OldManOfTheSea

03-28-2007, 1:02 PM

booster pump>HUH! I called a number of times to champion lighting on anything that I might use on the RO unit to make it better and never had they ever said something on something as this :mad:
OK, I just called champion lighting and they have this booster pump and its cost $200> :dance2:

Being there is no fire rush that the reef tanks aren't ready as yet, im thinking I will do this. I will order the booster pump with a new membrane and the two additional stage that I added on my RO unit, I will remove this single in order for two cartridge stage set and have the two carbons on the three stage with the micron and put the two Hi-S DI cartridges in the two twin stage set, (retrofit)> Also on the rush part, right now a lot happening with the doctors>
What is that object on the far left? Is it a fire extinguisher>

I copied this response you done here for I will as well speak to my lfs guy on the miracle mud, that I would pay him to remove the LR and sand that in these tanks to add the miracle mud.

The skimmer is supposed to come with two sedra 5000 pumps>
So as this whole thing progresses, I will now be known as your apprentice, just don`t become another Donald Trump and fire me :mad2: I told the person I been dealing with that I wanted all the best to do these reef tanks :rolleyes:

I know that lfs not tell you everything >

I will order the booster bump and all when i know the tanks will be completed

Mr.Firemouth

03-28-2007, 3:51 PM

The miracle mud can be used in the refugium. The 3" of sand will be fine in the main tanks. Make sure the sand is sugar sized aragonite for better performance and not crushed coral. Carib-sea has nice substrates and is who I use.

OldManOfTheSea

03-28-2007, 6:47 PM

I talk to one of the workers at the LFS to ask on the aragonite sand they get in if its more like sugar sized or crushed coral and he said that its more like in between them. Now I can for the 240 simply have this miracle mud in the refugium of the 240, and to do this with the 180, I would need to change the custom sump. So for the 180, I will pay the guy to remove the LR and sand in order to have the miracle mud in the location you first said it should be in.

I wanted to see if I can see your tanks and I look into your profile and I guess you only respond to a certain topic only depending on what the question might be. For even that your fewer post count after being a member at AC for five years, it means nothing other then what it is that you could offer those who would like to try to do the best in which could possibly help ones tank.

I had ask this same question at about three other sites, and one in their first response look to be more sounding to the professional background and when this person responded a second time, it was as if was in question and not as reassuring from the first response.

But of course, we all not know everything but from what also I might had gathered was this other persons SPS tank are not the same in what im looking to do. Like the SPS corals that not need all that strong lighting. I been in this hobby too long not to take notice to such things. That I would/could get folks with many different levels of knowledge in keeping SPS corals.

It was the same thing when my lfs guy after I told him I wanted stronger lights then 175 watts and he said that they are good lighting for what I wanted to do and I explained that I wanted to be able to keep most any coral that demands the most in lighting and that I knew that if I was to gone with the 175, I would have to changed my plans on the type of SPS corals and go with the lower lighting SPS with more soft corals and I didn't want that.

I had in plan these tanks as you read here for more then 5.5 years now and had the thoughts of doing something as this for some five years before that. And now the dreaming and planning is to become a reality with the same thoughts all through those years of the type of SPS corals and dwarf eels with some clams, I never detoured from the first idea that I was to put into these tanks.

If the changing of the lighting from 250 to 400 watts will make this wait a bit longer, I will deal with it as all the other delays I had in this project. I just not know if there be any others who waited as long or would still had the determination for it after so many years in the works>

So now, I have to wait again to talk with my lfs person>

Buddy :)

Mr.Firemouth

03-28-2007, 11:54 PM

Buddy,
I understand your concerns completely. My current setup is a 180g/250g total system that is going to be a packed mixed reef. I wasn't trying for an all SPS type tank this time around. I have been in the hobby for 25+ years and am 38 years old. I used to own my own maintenance company in the late 80's and early 90's. I have maintained over thousands of gallons of both fresh and saltwater. I have bred many freshwater species and propagated corals since 1988 when I started cutting soft corals and mushrooms/rics.

There is a web address in my signature that I post at more often and is why my post count is low. I also post alot on Tropical Resources.net which is the official web forum of Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine. I hope that helps.

Many of the corals on your list are the "microwave SPS" that love high intensity lighting. 250w bulbs would work but colors and growth will be much better under the 400w systems. We use 400w bulbs to grow out frags in these tubs...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/fishman350/DSC_0001-1.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/fishman350/DSC_0012.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h196/fishman350/DSC_0002-1.jpg

If you already have a sand bed installed in the 180 then it should be fine unless you are having a nutrient problem with nitrates and phosphates. If not then concentrate on flow and water quality.

If you can add the mud to the refugium then do so in the 240.

1. Are you plumbing the 180 and 240 together or are they running separate?

Lastly, I am not well versed in the scientific names of the corals. There are just too many. I am familiar with most common names and can recognize the care requirements for most. SPS I have now are frags no one wanted. I have a tan birds nest, montipora undulata, montipora digita purple. I will be adding Leng Sy montipora tuberculosa(green w/purple rim) monti capricornis in blue, yellow color forms. Montipora superman danae and montipora sunset danae(orange w/green polyps) The rest will be soft corals and LPS species. Here is a pic of my elegance coral...
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/SUPER180/elegance.jpg

This tank is only 17 weeks old. It still has some maturing to do before I add too much more SPS. I want to wait at least 6 months.

OldManOfTheSea

03-29-2007, 12:32 AM

Here to once my reef tanks are ready to stock will take it very slow that I will not add a SPS as the ones I most want until the 5-5th month, that I fully understand the importance of properly aging a tank.

As for your knowledge, I will not question you any on the input which you offer me again :)

The corals which are mostly on the search list, I knew of most them to require high intensity lighting, I do hope that you know that I at much times due to my medical and physical problems had some difficulties in best how to express myself in words, while I must type that is.

Your room setup is very impressive I must say :bowing: :bowing: :bowing: :bowing: :bowing:

Even that in my house, I have 2 bathrooms with a master bedroom and two guess rooms. And a computer room that happens to have the two tanks as one system. And an exercise room with as well the main family room (TV, etc) Kitchen and dining room and the last room area that I not know how to call it, it holds the 180 and 240 reef tanks to be with the 40 gal breeder and my relax electrical massage chair. In all, there are ten rooms.

the elegance coral, I hope your be on top that coral watching like a hawk, many folks for whatever reason, the coral fails :( I did thought to possibly having it myself, I like to learn why is it that so many not done as well>
I will check out that link, but not now, I need my rest for right now and as well, my blood pressure is really acting up.

Do know that now, I mean I had in the past year or two, ask something on these thing, but nothing was happening for I not even had the electrical work done, so my first stage in what im to attempt are the first questions answered. Until these reef tanks as SPS tanks, I never before it asked anything in the forums.

Nite Mr.Firemouth

OOPS!! I not seen this or i missed it some how.
Are you plumbing the 180 and 240 together or are they running Are you plumbing the 180 and 240 together or are they running separate?
?

The tanks are Are you plumbing the 180 and 240 together or are they running separated from one another and will have their own sumps and skimmers

These are old pics>
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/Buddy1938/20060616_1356.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y283/Buddy1938/20060314_0501.jpg

Mr.Firemouth

03-29-2007, 8:47 AM

Is there a basement under those tanks? If so you can drill thru the floor and plumb to the basement. You could then have very large sumps, plumb them together, and use one very large skimmer. Just an Idea. But if so there is potential to increase water volume to 1,000 gallons which would be incredibly stable.

Hope you feel better soon.

Mr.Firemouth

03-29-2007, 9:32 AM

Mr.Firemouth

03-29-2007, 11:54 AM

Now back to the original question...research on these corals...

Montipora Cap Purple
Orange Digitata
Superman Monti
Orange Montipora Encrusting Coral (Montipora nodosus)
Montipora Branched Coral (Montipora digitata) Pink, Purple
Leaf Plate Montipora Coral (Montipora capricornis) Orange, Pink, Purple

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/268.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/251.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/252.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species%20pages/742.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species%20pages/458.htm

Montipora sp. are small polyp stony corals that require bright lighting, high water flow, NSW calcium/alkalinity/pH/Mg levels, low nutrients including very low phosphates/nitrates, and phyto-plankton foods. There requirements will mimic all other stony corals. What is important to realize about these corals is that they are peaceful in terms of chemical warfare so can be placed in close proximity to other peaceful corals and remember that these corals are fast growers. Pruning of species may be required to control overgrowth of other species.
*These corals are susceptible to montipora eating nudibranchs and red bugs

Blastomussa wellsi - Fire Red
Blastomussa Merletti

Here is my profile...
Latin Name: Blastomussa merleti/wellsi

Common Name: Blasto merleti and Pipe Blastomussa

Fast facts:Acclimates to medium to moderate water flow, moderate light, and can be fed fleshy foods. These corals are hardy and come in a variety of polyp sizes and colors.

Lighting: Most LPS corals will thrive under moderate light conditions. T5, Power Compact, VHO, and Metal Halide will all do the job.
If you do not have enough light then your corals will lose some colors. However, if you return them to the proper wattage with 10000k/Actinic combos your corals will recover completely.

Environment: Reef, Indo-Pacific

Description: Large polyps extend from stony stems. When full extended the polyps hide the stony skeleton. They are usually red, green, and brown color variants.

Temperature:22C-28C
(72F-82F)

AGGRESSIVENESS: low

Feeding: This coral receives the bulk of it's food from photosynthesis. It can be fed Cyclopes and baby brine shrimp.

Supplements: Cacium and carbonates are a must. 450ppm Calcium/4.5 meg/l Alkilinty

Position: Can be added to sand bed or glued to a reef rock.

Propagation: Stony skeleton can be fragged to form seperate colonies.

Comments: A good intermediate coral for beginners/advanced aquarists. Blasto Merleti is easier to care for than B. Wellsi . I believe these corals should be fed.

View my slide show from pics off of the internet...

http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/blastos/?action=view&current=1162835868.pbw

http://s85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/blastos/?action=view&current=1162835800.pbw

Acropora Millepora Raspberry
Tortuosa
Purple Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)
Green Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Brown Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)
Color Tip Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors
Neon Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.) All Colors

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/23.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species%20pages/782.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/33.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/47.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species%20pages/824.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/401-500/Species%20pages/417.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/75.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/81.htm

These are the most commonly seen acros in the hobby. There are many more available upon request of your LFS. Their care requirements are the same as for the montiporas. These corals are also not very aggressive and can be colonized closely to one another. Cuttings will be required to control growth. Colors will vary upon collection site, depth, and light/nutrient levels. These corals will also feed on micro zooplankton and phto-plankton.

Pink Cotton Pillow
Stylophora Coral (Stylophora spp.)
Pocillopora Cauliflower Coral (Pocillopora damicornis) Pink

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species%20pages/345.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species%20pages/883.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species%20pages/307.htm

Again these are peaceful corals with the same care requirements as above.

Porites Coral Yellow (Porites spp.)

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species%20pages/897.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/601-700/Species%20pages/603.htm

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species%20pages/318.htm

Yet another peaceful coral.Porites corals are associated with the symbiotic christmas tree worms and parasitic barnacles. Their care requirements are the same as above.

Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream

http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/215.htm

Hydnorphoras come in varying degrees of bright neon green and different shapes. These corals are beautiful but are extremely aggressive to other corals thru chemical warfare. Placement in the tank in relation to flow is critical! These corals can release tiny fragments of nemocyst that sting other corals forcing their immune system to fail and then they RTN and die. These corals can be kept with other corals but care needs to be given to where they are placed. Blue slimers and green slimers are common names of 2 other aggressive corals. Care requirements are the same as above.

OrangeRicordia (Ricordia florida)
http://www.ricordea.org/mushroom_coral/ricordea_florida.htm

http://www.tropicalresources.net/phpBB2/fish_profiles_florida.php

Ricordea Florida are hardy mushrooms that should be placed near the bottom and in shaded areas of a tank with 400w of light. Ricordea yuma(tonga mushroom) is also less tolerant of bright lighting and should be placed in a shadier area.

[color=blue]Turbinaria Ruffled Ridge Coral (Turbinaria sp.)

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=487

http://www.asira.org/caresheetsIII.pdf
Page 33

Cup corals, ruffled corals are very hardy and adaptable to different lighting conditions. I would place them lower in the aquarium and sit the sideways so that detrtius doesn't settle in the bottom of the ridges/cup.

I hope this helps, Rich

OldManOfTheSea

03-29-2007, 1:41 PM

No basement, but a crawl space and I was told that at some spots they who need to go under there could almost stand. I wish thou for then I would have one huge sump and skimmer and not look to do as much as what im doing now> I guess, those are the breaks :mad:

OOPS :eek: You double posted, LOL

Now back to the original question...research on these corals...
I thought of that too this morning for we only spoken of the tanks. I'm not complaining mind you for I was going to start another thread only on the corals. But being that as it may, that you brought it up now.

Now I been reading up on corals and doing searches for some years now, and I see that corals with many, their names are somewhat different. That SPS corals I see, many sites which sell these have a somewhat different name to their corals. Its like the fish, in general speaking, the eel. Most all the time for as long as I care to remember, either the shippers or both, the LFS people name the eels they get in as new arrivals a name to what coloration or close look a likes they might appear as. But bottom line is that the eel names, scientific and common names are all been becoming confusing for many. And now, im having this same type of difficulties with the coral.

*These corals are susceptible to montipora eating nudibranchs and red bugs
Due to that, I will most certainly have those as part of my coral selection :)

If you do not have enough light then your corals will lose some colors. However, if you return them to the proper wattage with 10000k/Actinic combos your corals will recover completely.
I readied this all too often from threads in which I just readied to gain me some ground on the SPS coral. And as long as im to get the lighting you differently say that would be needed for my quest, I only now have to be concern not to get the corals which demand lower lighting and currents.

I hope this helps
My good man, You exceeded yourself> Its far more then anything I ever seen while in these forum sites, and this what you took the time to bring to my attention will keep me quite busy for a good length of time ;)

OldManOfTheSea

03-30-2007, 2:01 PM

Rich, What of chaetomorpha?

I tend to forget things that I learn that I would want quite some time ago. For one other said of this algae called chaetomorpha and I not remembered it right away that due to the fact that my LFS reef display tanks has this that I made a note on it to be sure to have it in my sumps.

As you know, many people always have a difference in their views from one person too the next, but what if I have this chaetomorpha in the sumps, and have a 4-5" bed of aragonite sand, would I still need the miracle mud?

On the 180 tanks sump, I might be able to have this chaetomorpha without having to change that custom build sump to get me a new sump build. All a sudden, im a new problem at hand, when will it end :)

Mr.Firemouth

03-30-2007, 3:33 PM

Buddy, you can always add chaeto to a system. I recommend that you read this thread about lighting the sump...
http://www.melevsreef.com/fuge_bulb.html

This thread explains alot about the bulbs you want to use to grow the algae.

Miracle mud is a personal preference that can or can not be used in a system. If it is too much trouble to put it in then you can go without. If you are building a system, then I highly recommend it. I have yet to see negative affects of it's use when properly applied.

Chaeto is a wickedly fast growing caulerpa that does not go sexual like other caulerpas and would cause more problems. It really helps with nitrate and phosphate reduction, IMO.

OldManOfTheSea

03-30-2007, 3:53 PM

You answered already, I was about to add that I will go with both for I do alot of serious background into these things to reach a final decision and to stick with it as I stick with the idea of doing these tanks for 11-12 years now and as I said, I not once detoured from this thought :)

The miracle mud with go in the sump of the 240 and I will speak to my lfs guy on if we add it into the tank of the 180 or add a box in the sump so I not need to change it. Its crazy on how one needs to make all these decisions and hopefully it all come out right :dance2:

I will read on the lighting of a sump later and thank a Mil for all your efforts :)

OldManOfTheSea

03-30-2007, 9:04 PM

On the idea of running the algae, I knew of it to help in reducing nutrients in the tank, only I read too often in RC a huge mix in opinions of both, lighting and algae. Like on these tanks, there is one living creature or perhaps you like to call it a flower. That is the anemone, for I was for about a year or so after the tanks were put in to have anemones as well. I had one serious issue on that idea, I couldn't guarantee myself that I can get the anemones to stay in one place. When a readied threads on this it tends to be a risk and the idea on having carpet anemone was out for then I couldn't have the dwarf eels. So after some point of knocking my head around, I decided to scratch the idea.

One the other plans from the start, were to get me a pair of clarions and about a year ago or so, somebody mess things up for the next person by capturing this fish without the Government, knowing about it. It was some time ago and I forget all the details on that story. But anyhow, I was to have this pair in the 240. Perhaps later by the time these tanks are completed with livestock, that the ban on this fish might be lifted. I know that its a risk>

If it is too much trouble to put it in then you can go without. If you are building a system, then I highly recommend it.
In the 240 sump, I can get it for the sump, the 180 is in question if I can turn that tanks sump into a refugium for when it was setup as a soft coral tank mostly, I not ran anything for nutrients. control. and if it comes down to it and I cannot do anything with it, I will pay my lfs guy to remove the LR and bed to put the miracle mud. I few hundred bucks extra will not kill me, but my Grandchildren are.

This coming Monday, I will drive out to speak with my guy and also the suggestion one giving me of a QT for the corals due to the flatworms, I will speak with J on this that if he could set one tank as a holding tank for these corals with the proper lighting. To hold them as long as a month to watch for any possible hitchhikers. I will tell him as well, that from the time I be able to start stocking these tanks, I will not begin with any of the super demand SPS corals which have the greater demand for high intensity lighting and when ready, will get in every third month or so some 6-8 corals and again would set in the store for a month and I would pay him to even bring them out to me to help set them in place. One of my disabilities be that I have three lower ruptured disk. No tears anyone :)

R$$$, (I had hit the dollar symbol by mistake, and it seem to be a good idea) So tomorrow I have my three youngest grandchildren and the next day, Sunday, I should be off, but there never any guarantees that I can rest it up, besides, the kids soon will all be home for bring break making me one of the busiest granddads around.

Mr.Firemouth

03-30-2007, 9:57 PM

LOL, enjoy!!! I keep a flower anemone in the sand bed. No problems yet.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/macros/anemone.jpg

OldManOfTheSea

03-30-2007, 10:18 PM

LOL, enjoy!!! I keep a flower anemone in the sand bed. No problems yet.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/macros/anemone.jpg

I was not with that type of anemone in mind and i not believe that I have to name a few :rolleyes:

OldManOfTheSea

04-01-2007, 4:15 AM

Acropora Millepora Raspberry

I have to think about this one for Im getting way too many
Raspberry`s from my younger grandchildren, specially from my granddaughter :sim:

OldManOfTheSea

04-01-2007, 8:07 PM

Rich, with the links you provided, I as well viewed these corals and if they sound ideal to you, perhaps you can give me the common names most used with these coral;

Montipora mollis
Montipora monasteriata
Acropora horrida
Acropora humilis
Acropora secale
Stylophora kuehlmanni
Pocillopora danae
Pocillopora verrucosa
Pocillopora elegans
http://www2.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/263.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/264.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/34.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/35.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/001-100/Species%20pages/62.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species%20pages/793.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/801-900/Species%20pages/858.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/301-400/Species%20pages/310.htm
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/701-800/Species%20pages/772.htm

Hydnophora Horn Coral (Hydnophora sp.)
Encrusting Horn Coral (Hydnophora exesa) Cream
http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch...0pages/215.htm (http://whelk.aims.gov.au/coralsearch/html/201-300/Species%20pages/215.htm)
This one I best too leave out from what your saying about it, until that is I gain much knowledge in handling these corals>

A million thank you's

Buddy

Mr.Firemouth

04-01-2007, 9:00 PM

try to order these all by scientific name first.
then we can go to trade names.
the wholesalers use the scientific names at the collection stations.

OldManOfTheSea

04-01-2007, 10:07 PM

There can be just one problem in that, for many corals in these do have the same scientific name with a difference in their common names to the type of style of the coral for like one of your selections in which you offered their general common names and I selected of the choices which grow in the straight up columns other then as a plated coral. Put I can try its you say and if its not what I was looking for, the lfs can sell it to another who's into SPS corals.

From the selection you giving me, im trying to put together the list and as well, im going to be searching from the names I copied from other forums of those who posted their corals pictures and if any of their names I come up empty, I would post the pic to ask you of its more requirements only if its a coral I most desire to have, not to waste time with anything I could have as little interest in it>

Being that were time in this, there is no hurry to draw up a full list of corals for both tanks. Also the list should be a number more of corals then would normally fit into these tanks and that I would have this symbol after the names the corals I desire most to have and that the remaining list my lfs guy can get any of the other corals.

Being that im with a injury which may leave me with a minor problem to position these corals in these tanks, I will have Jeff order me every three month some eight corals in all and speak to him about holding them for a month in the case of hitch-hikers, that he could charge me holding cost for these as well.

I found this and I would do a search thru it from top to bottom, I only need to know if the common names are as they should be ordered by? Its a list of coral with common and their scientific names, I like to know if the list on the names are accurate or not. Thanks
http://www.golden-ina.com/propagated-coral.asp

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea

04-02-2007, 12:28 PM

I spoken with my lfs guy on upgrading from 250 to 400 watts MH and he giving me this site to check out in trying to convince me to stay with the 250 watts MH;

http://www.hausriff.ch/4477/index.html

Tha problem as you can very much see is that its all in German, so how is one to understand what their seeing LOL

Now I know that SPS can be with 250 as well as 400 watts MH, I now feel like that I should just take a coin and flip it, heads for the 250 watts MH and tails for the 400 watts MH.

I not post in RC, but I seen many who have SPS with 250 and only a few who has 400. Im becoming mix up with this and it might had been better for me that if the 250 MH were already in :duh: :duh: :duh: the problem would then be solved>

Mr.Firemouth

04-02-2007, 9:02 PM

250w MH are good for 24" deep tanks for SPS.
400w MH are for tanks closer to 31" of depth for SPS.

Buddy these are recommendations for maximum growth and color! You can still have good color and slower growth w/250. 250w will work but 400w ia recommended for best performance. @50w are more common because they are readily available and cheaper to purchase and maintain. Most people with 400w are not concerned with purchasing costs or energy concerns. As far as intensity and PAR the 400w is best. As far as being economical and reaching the same goals the 250w is best.

The GOLDEN INA list is a good reference point. Some wholesalers will email pics to the LFS. Try WALT SMITH INDUSTRIES or PACIFIC AQUA FARMS(PAF). They have the best corals for SPS. (Largest colonies and widest selection)

IMO, your LFS is doing an excellent job of working with you. Communication is always the best strategy and it seems you are forging an excellent relationship with him.

OldManOfTheSea

04-03-2007, 4:48 AM

The lfs guy, his most in concern for algae and I told him that it would differ not from 250 from 400 if im not able to stay on top of matters letting it go. The tanks are 24" deep and its not so difficult for me in why I knock my head around to go one way or the others here. For after all, im just getting started with this , in an area in which I no background in other then the SPS that I were able to have under fat less in lighting.

Yes, I know of the fact that I could manage the same thing with 250 watts MH and I told my guy, I just like to set this up right with nothing more to do then too buy any mew equipment to better in the future.

I'm not concern to spend then be cheaper at this, it not would bother me to pay for something that I been wanting for so long a time and then im too back away just because of a few hundred dollars, or thousands for that matter.

My lfs guy knows thing and I know this, its is however that with any number of corals that he not, for he got in one time a rare coral and he not knew anything on it, I learned while having it before I found data on it that coral needed a shadow lighting area and low currents with no grazing fishes and I learned that it is called the lollipop coral. I do however not question he know his talking about the lighting in these tanks, as yourself as well for that matter, I was knocking my head around, just wanting what would be far better then the other.

Besides the two you suggested here on corals, I have this one in which only this site corals names be only through as under the name they giving it at their site. What I mean is that if I was too type their names into search, I only get them up at their link only.

This site seems to be with the differences in their coral names;
http://www.atlantisaquarium.net/ (http://www.atlantisaquarium.net/)

And I have this one that seems to be listed as they should be;
www.fragfarmer.com (http://www.fragfarmer.com/)

My lfs guy and I have been talking for a long time now, and on top of that, being that im no longer able to do the tanks setup as I would want myself, im to count on him. Also that here in the NC area are fewer lfs, but yet there growing in number but its difficult to give all these stores your trust were as many only tell you what you want to hear or that their only concern be is to make a sale.

I will with the coral names I in wordpad as well as from the links you mentions and one other will from all that make a list selections and then break it down a good number, as well that from the images that be available, I will from that place the star symbol for the corals I like to be with the most.

You should know that this link, the atlantisaquarium has some beauties and its pretty much as so to what many im looking for with their information requirements. Like I tell the children all the time, that they will feel many disappointments in life.

THANKS again R$$$ :)
Buddy

AND a PS, I told Jeff that there is however one thing that I wanted to speak with him about, its about the idea to that I will not move in and buy right away any of the major SPS corals until the 5th month in which he would order some eight or so at a time or you think ten at a time and if he gets all 8-10 corals, after he holds for 30 days in a setup just for this suppose to discover that if their any hitch-hikers and again I would pay him to bring them to my home and help position the corals due to my flexibility to my injury. And im with the idea that he not order another batch until almost two months later and would do this all over again.

Mr.Firemouth

04-03-2007, 9:42 PM

Buddy, keep in mind the size of the frags when looking at these internet sites. Your LFS can ship you in colonies of the same corals. I recommend using these sites when hard to find corals are unavailable locally. I would use these sites for reference. The pics may change so copy them to an album for reference purposes.

I like the 5 MH 250w systems from AQUA MEDIC. Here is a pic of mine on a 180g about 2 months ago.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k44/mrfiremouth/SUPER180/mh1.jpg

OldManOfTheSea

04-03-2007, 10:07 PM

I do copy the pics to the coral I like most and prior to stocking, I will email my lfs guy these sites and pics so that he might get me the coral I desire most. On my 180 is to be three 250 watts MH. But don't you loose some strength of the MH in the way you have the lights I bit higher as well then perhaps in my canopies? IM having three like I said on the 180 and four on the 240>

I now have a whole load of serious coral research to do, I so many links in my favorite folder and I already began this search.

So your to have SPS corals in that tank sometime before im to have in my own, lol and nice it is too>

I know my lfs guy for a good long while now and I also know that his a person who could and would go out of his way for something. So you know more in this to what im trying to say, he wanted a special type of reef tank made. He called all over the world to get a tank with a bow on both sides, he had it build in Japan and I think that its a 440 gals.

So when the time comes, and I a selection of corals together, you could see it and add any insights on any of the corals like the one you pointed out as a extremely aggressive species, etc.

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea

04-08-2007, 11:58 AM

The question I have right now is if that a AquaZone Ozone Generator w/Controller, 200 mg/hr be necessary or not when keeping SPS corals? That how many who use this and for how long?

Fishieness

04-08-2007, 12:04 PM

it isnt necessary but will def help to maximize skimmer efficiency.

Mr.Firemouth

04-09-2007, 10:08 PM

The addition of ozone is a plus but you must understand the system. Ozone is very volatile and oxidizes a great many things in the system. It is best administered thru a protien skimmer, however you will need a long contact time for it to be effective. All discharge water must pass thru a carbon filter before returning to the main tank.( this is very important! Ozone is toxic!)

The 2 biggest reasons it is not widely used is the costs of the unit and the fact that it should be used with a very tall skimmer. The longer the ozone is in contact with the water the better.

As far as skimming goes...The addition of ozone will actual cause the skimmer to form less bubbles and skimmate. The skimmer becomes more of a reactor than a skimmer.

If you were using a 4' tall skimmer I would suggest ozone. It can be used in a smaller skimmer but there is alot of ozone just being pumped out onto the carbon bed.(effluent waste). If you are going to use ozone then I suggest you find someone local with a unit and familiarize yourself with the unit.

Another option would be a large skimmer between both tanks. 4' skimmers are rated for 1200g systems and would easily handle both tanks. Something to consider.

I would research the ozone more before making any purchases. Like I said it works great...if set up properly.

OldManOfTheSea

04-09-2007, 10:57 PM

Some time after I post this question that I learned myself that besides the good effects it have, there be many drawbacks as well. The skimmer that is going on the 240 cost about $1,000. So with that knowing that even I not the money to do things as fast as I like, I still however buy the best I can for these tanks. A total cost with both reef tanks right now stands at around $32,000 and im not done yet.

I know that water currents is the main ticket while keeping SPS corals and in the sumps I will have that miracle mud. So for now, im looking into all possible angles here to do all the best in these tanks setup.

Right now, the two larger jobs to do are the changing of the lighting on both tanks and the sump on the 240 and after, the rest of what needs doing are considered as small jobs.

Saying much there, I know that the ozone would add to the tanks conditions and that not konowing its functions can cause serious damages for the system, but in all, I need to feel that things are doing OK while the long hours im at helping with my grandchildren. Besides all else ghere, I have to understand the maintaining of these corals as it is that I not need to add to the problem if I will have any that is.

Say Rich, I think we covered that idea of one skimmer doing the job for everything, I not have any place for doing this idea that each tank has its own sump with skimmer. For yes, I would be all for it that a skimmer for 1200 gals or more with a sump more than 1000 gals.

I spoken a little to my lfs guy today, that we will add the phosphate reactors with the calcium reactors from the start prior to any stocking of these tanks. I did tell him however that a long with the two carbon dioxide tanks I will like a third tank for so that when i need to get refills done, I can wait for my own personal tank and not accept their tank refills.

I found out the other day while I was waiting for the lfs to get in a pair of Yellow Golden Heart Triggers that they sell for $900 each for he had a Gem in and i wanted very much to take its pic, but he had to shp the Gem out just few days ago, it sold for $3,500. This is a tang that I was giving a quote of around $1500 to $2000 and now I know that it goes for ,a lot more then that, lol

One of my ideas were to see if I could get me a pair of clarion angels which then sold for $5,000 for a pair, but somebody had mess this up that was catching these fish without any permission and a restriction has be put into affect making this fish off-limits.

Buddy ><{{{{">

OldManOfTheSea

04-19-2007, 11:35 AM

Here are some leathers which I selected and the question mark means if I can manage to keep it at all in stronger water currents. I'm more or less planning two leathers for the 240 and only one in the 180 and this is to start the aging of these tanks before any SPS corals. Least of the SPS corals that demand stronger lighting>

White Spaghetti Leather Coral (Sinularia flexibis)***
Yellow Polyp Toadstool Leather Coral (Sarcophyton sp.)**?
Fiji Yellow Leather Coral (Sarcophyton elegans)***?
CORAL, LEATHER FINGER (Sinularia)***
CORAL, CAULIFLOWER (Nephthea)*?

Now here in this part of the selection, I might have any one coral listed twice and this would be due to two reasons. One is I tend to forget and the other be that the names sometimes can be changed around somewhat and are the same coral. So please, if this is what I have on any coral selection, then be sure to point those out so that I wouldn't buy the very same coral. Also in this part of the list, the question mark can mean a few things like if the coral is really beautiful or not so beautiful. For the images available at most links not do these corals an justice. Also the question mark can mean if the tanks I would be keeping, if their will be ideal for that coral, meaning lighting and water currents. And aggression level would do well to know.

Blue Ridge Coral - Heliopora coerulea : Blue Fire Coral
Acropora sp. (Purple Staghorn Coral)**
Anthelia sp. (Waving Hand Coral) (colors)
Caulestrea sp. (Candy or Trumpet Coral)?
Alveopora (Branch) Coral - Alveopora species
Wildwood Bottle Brush Acropora Coral =(Acropora aculeus)***
Lobophyllia Brain (Red) - Lobophyllia species?
Flower Pot Coral - Goniopora lobata
Flower Pot Coral, Goniopora Coral (Goniopora djiboutiensis) **?
Pocillopora eydouxi. Antler Coral
Purple Tip Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa)**?
(Plerogyra sinuosa) Bubble Coral **?
Screaming Green Birdsnest Coral (Seriatopora guttatus)***?
Pink Stylophora (Stylophora sp.)**
Vivid Blue Tort (Acropora Tortuosa)***?
Orange Montipora digitata (Montipora digitata) ***
Purple Rimmed Capricornis (Montipora capricornis) ***
Orange/Pink Montipora Capricornis ***
Acropora microphthalma (Acropora microphthalma) **
Acropora Cerealis (Acropora cerealis) *
Van Gogh Acropora Coral (Acropora insignis)***
Sunrise Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora yongei)***
Royal Tipped Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora microphthalma)***
Northwoods Tri-color Acropora Coral (Acropora valida)
Neon Vermiculata Acropora Coral (Acropora vermiculata)**
Midnight Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora formosa)
Kohen's Echinata Acropora Coral (Acropora echinata)***
Green Spiny Acropora Coral (Acropora pectiniatus)
Green Prostrata Acropora Coral (Acropora prostrata)*?
Green and Purple Table Acropora Coral (Acropora clathrata)*
Fireside Acropora Coral (Acropora tenuis)**
Cranberry Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora sarmentosa)**
Bula Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora samoensis)***
Blue Tip Tongan Fuzzy Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora aspera)?
Aquamarine Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora nasuta)?
Blue Mesa Acropora Coral (Acropora hyacinthus)?
Blue Tip Kimbeensis Acropora Coral (Acropora kimbeensis)***
Purple Polyp Plating Montipora encrusting coral (Montipora peltiformis)?
Hodag's Montipora Coral (Montipora confusa)?
Royal Tipped Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora microphthalma)***
Blueberry Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora kirstyae)?
Australian Delicate Staghorn Coral (Acropora sp.)**
Blue Acropora Millepora Coral (Acropora millepora)**
Van Gogh Acropora Coral (Acropora insignis)***
Snow White Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)**
Marshall Island, Tri Color Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)?
Purple Paradise Acropora Coral (Acropora loripes)?
Tenuis, Green with Purple Tips (Acropora tenuis)***
Northwoods Tri-color Acropora Coral (Acropora valida)*
Neon Vermiculata Acropora Coral (Acropora vermiculata)**

Now understand that the list of coral names I collected through the past few years due to the fact that I will be having my reef tanks in full working functions at some time. That the coral names differ from one link to another depending on where one looks.

Now the star symbol means, three stars I favor that coral the most and two is just under the most favorites and one and then no star meaning I can have that coral or not.

Also, that is still a small part of the list of corals I in my word pad, that im sure as well that many corals I could had copied any number of times>

Buddy ><{{{{">

Mr.Firemouth

04-19-2007, 7:08 PM

OK buddy,
The leather corals are possible with large amounts of Activated carbon but there presence in the system will limit SPS growth. Now with that said, You can have leathers with SPS...they just don't grow as fast as when it is SPS only. Xenia has the same effect. Zoanthids/palys are fine with SPS.

The blue ridge coral is actually going to be green/brown. The blue color is the color of the skeleton that you wont be able to see.

Staghorn corals should be fine.

the anthelia is like Xenia and i would rule out.

Caulestrea sp. (Candy or Trumpet Coral)?... is OK
Alveopora (Branch) Coral - Alveopora species... Very difficult to feed
Wildwood Bottle Brush Acropora Coral =(Acropora aculeus)***...OK
Lobophyllia Brain (Red) - Lobophyllia species?...OK
Flower Pot Coral - Goniopora lobata... Very difficult to feed
Flower Pot Coral, Goniopora Coral (Goniopora djiboutiensis) **?
Pocillopora eydouxi. Antler Coral... OK
Purple Tip Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa)**?...OK but watch for sweepers
(Plerogyra sinuosa) Bubble Coral **?...sweeper tentacles more aggressive
Screaming Green Birdsnest Coral (Seriatopora guttatus)***?...OK
Pink Stylophora (Stylophora sp.)**...OK
Vivid Blue Tort (Acropora Tortuosa)***?...OK try for a Cali Tort
Orange Montipora digitata (Montipora digitata) ***...OK
Purple Rimmed Capricornis (Montipora capricornis) ***...OK try for Leng Sy
Orange/Pink Montipora Capricornis ***...ok
Acropora microphthalma (Acropora microphthalma) **...OK
Acropora Cerealis (Acropora cerealis) *...OK
Van Gogh Acropora Coral (Acropora insignis)***...OK
Sunrise Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora yongei)***...OK look for yellow species
Royal Tipped Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora microphthalma)***...Same as above
Northwoods Tri-color Acropora Coral (Acropora valida)...OK
Neon Vermiculata Acropora Coral (Acropora vermiculata)**...OK
Midnight Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora formosa)...OK
Kohen's Echinata Acropora Coral (Acropora echinata)***...OK
Green Spiny Acropora Coral (Acropora pectiniatus)...OK
Green Prostrata Acropora Coral (Acropora prostrata)*?...OK
Green and Purple Table Acropora Coral (Acropora clathrata)*...OK look for Larry Jacksons
Fireside Acropora Coral (Acropora tenuis)**...OK
Cranberry Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora sarmentosa)**...OK rasberry millepora has more color
Bula Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora samoensis)***...OK
Blue Tip Tongan Fuzzy Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora aspera)?...Aggressive chemically
Aquamarine Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora nasuta)?...OK
Blue Mesa Acropora Coral (Acropora hyacinthus)?...OK
Blue Tip Kimbeensis Acropora Coral (Acropora kimbeensis)***...OK
Purple Polyp Plating Montipora encrusting coral (Montipora peltiformis)?...OK
Hodag's Montipora Coral (Montipora confusa)?...OK
Royal Tipped Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora microphthalma)***Repeat
Blueberry Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora kirstyae)?...OK
Australian Delicate Staghorn Coral (Acropora sp.)**...ok
Blue Acropora Millepora Coral (Acropora millepora)**...OK
Van Gogh Acropora Coral (Acropora insignis)***repeat
Snow White Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)**unknown
Marshall Island, Tri Color Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.)?unknown
Purple Paradise Acropora Coral (Acropora loripes)?...OK
Tenuis, Green with Purple Tips (Acropora tenuis)***repeat
Northwoods Tri-color Acropora Coral (Acropora valida)*repeat
Neon Vermiculata Acropora Coral (Acropora vermiculata)**repeat

Most of these SPS will be harder to come by and many will be tan or brown corals for the first few months unless aquacultured. Color morphs will vary so pay closer attention to structure and growth patterns along with type of polyps. It is ok if a brown specimen comes in. Give it about 4 months in your system after QT to color up.

OldManOfTheSea

04-19-2007, 8:56 PM

OK buddy,
The leather corals are possible with large amounts of Activated carbon but there presence in the system will limit SPS growth. Now with that said, You can have leathers with SPS...they just don't grow as fast as when it is SPS only. Xenia has the same effect. Zoanthids/palys are fine with SPS.

With that said, I no choice but to leave them out ;) Thanks

Now the list thus far, take shape like this.......And also know that any number of changes will and could be made>

Caulestrea sp. (Candy or Trumpet Coral)
Wildwood Bottle Brush Acropora Coral =(Acropora aculeus)***
Lobophyllia Brain (Red) - Lobophyllia species
Pocillopora eydouxi. Antler Coral
Purple Tip Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa)**OK but watch for sweepers ( I had not this one and it took the area of a foot all to itself)
(Plerogyra sinuosa) Bubble Coral **?...sweeper tentacles more aggressive (This one I will think about)
Screaming Green Birdsnest Coral (Seriatopora guttatus)***
Pink Stylophora (Stylophora sp.)**
Vivid Blue Tort (Acropora Tortuosa)***?...OK try for a Cali Tort
Orange Montipora digitata (Montipora digitata) ***
Purple Rimmed Capricornis (Montipora capricornis) ***...OK try for Leng Sy
Orange/Pink Montipora Capricornis ***
Acropora microphthalma (Acropora microphthalma) **
Acropora Cerealis (Acropora cerealis) *
Van Gogh Acropora Coral (Acropora insignis)***
Sunrise Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora yongei)***...OK look for yellow species :)
Northwoods Tri-color Acropora Coral (Acropora valida)
Neon Vermiculata Acropora Coral (Acropora vermiculata)**
Midnight Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora formosa)
Kohen's Echinata Acropora Coral (Acropora echinata)***
Green Spiny Acropora Coral (Acropora pectiniatus)
Green Prostrata Acropora Coral (Acropora prostrata)*
Green and Purple Table Acropora Coral (Acropora clathrata)* look for Larry Jacksons
Fireside Acropora Coral (Acropora tenuis)**
Cranberry Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora sarmentosa)** rasberry millepora has more color
Bula Blue Acropora Coral (Acropora samoensis)***
Blue Tip Tongan Fuzzy Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora aspera)?...Aggressive chemically (will think on it)
Aquamarine Tip Acropora Coral (Acropora nasuta)
Blue Mesa Acropora Coral (Acropora hyacinthus)
Blue Tip Kimbeensis Acropora Coral (Acropora kimbeensis)***
Purple Polyp Plating Montipora encrusting coral (Montipora peltiformis)
Hodag's Montipora Coral (Montipora confusa)
Blueberry Staghorn Acropora Coral (Acropora kirstyae)
Australian Delicate Staghorn Coral (Acropora sp.)**
Blue Acropora Millepora Coral (Acropora millepora)**
Purple Paradise Acropora Coral (Acropora loripes)
Snow White Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)** http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2069
Marshall Island, Tri Color Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1606

Most of these SPS will be harder to come by and many will be tan or brown corals for the first few months unless aquacultured. Color morphs will vary so pay closer attention to structure and growth patterns along with type of polyps. It is ok if a brown specimen comes in. Give it about 4 months in your system after QT to color up.

I know that many corals I might not even get to see them and is why I will have a larger selection with the star symbol to which coral I prefer more to no star symbol, that those corals afterwards could be deleted from the list. Also the two corals you had labeled them as unknown, I got for you the links from where I had seen them at.

Thanks Rich, Now you can relax until the next listing :)

Here is the link I will have if I cannot find anything better for when im stocking these tanks>
http://oldmanofthesea38.blogspot.com/

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea

04-21-2007, 11:13 PM

These were the two type of corals that you not could identify;

Snow White Acropora Coral (Acropora sp.)** http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...fm?pCatId=2069 (http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2069)
Marshall Island, Tri Color Acropora Corals (Acropora sp.) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...fm?pCatId=1606

Now I'm realizing that its much time wasted in searching the names others had pasted as their coral ID in type of species it be that much of the names I copied to my word pad, are most the same species, if not have a difficulty to identify due to either the shade of light it be under or other wise.

I a load of coral photos that I in my picture folder and with those will explore these forums and see if a coral I like the way it looks in appearances. I will load these images to that link that Niko and another had suggested to me with the names I gotten as these coral known common names and such.

I figure that this would be most useful in the type of coral it really is for I know of these corals, just I not dealt much with these type of corals. Also if any coral is a copy of another and I not realized this, just have to say that I either accepted that coral species already or that I decided to do without that coral.

Also today, I been sick, but I been thinking about this much and I have to drop the idea of any soft corals. Only thing in this be is that I would greatly need your help Rich on the corals best to start with into aging the tank systems for 5-6 months before any of the other main corals are brought.
Also I think I said that I will talk with my lfs on ordering a goof number of these corals at one time, like tem to be exact and that he would QT at the store and charge me some extra cost for it. I was thinking that he QT them for not less then a month, is this ideal with these corals for the idea really is if there be any hitch hikers. And the 40 gal qt is really setup for FO for it has the type of skimmer and so that I would never place corals in this tank.

The tanks aren't completed so far, but I will try some time after to take pics before he complete the tanks and then take pics of what they look like after. They`re no skimmers running on the reef tanks.

here is the link for which I will be using for this.
http://oldmanofthesea38.blogspot.com/

I figure with the SPS/hard corals I might have some polyps or so>

Buddy

OldManOfTheSea

04-26-2007, 11:23 AM

HI Rich, I am using the help of Eric Borneman and yourself and he as well knows of you for I told him that I will be using the help from you both. I'm not placing you two against one another in your knowledge for the deal in this which I am looking for so much too do, corals ID are extremely difficult. I done whatever update on the coral selection of whatever Eric were able to tell me. Before I move on to the next coral selection, I am waiting for your views on the list and one thing Eric left out or might not had noticed I asked him of this, I asked him on which coral if my tanks meet to their requirements, can I start with in the first few months. That is so that the aging of these systems can move forward with the coral I most desire to own.

You see Rich, people as yourself stand out in your background in this hobby, there were as well a few others that wanted to give me more then just coral ideas. When I asked to see their threads where they have their tanks so that I can see how well their knowledge stands out. Few gotten hot under the collar and saying that your looking for help, aren't you> I told them that I was looking for which corals they might bring to my attention in which I might love to have later on, that I didn't ask them for answers on my tanks and if they wanted to go further then just coral suggestions, then I would need to know of their background.

One wanted to email me photos of his tanks, and I told him that I would prefer to see his responses to others for photos can be of anybody's tanks and this person never giving me any forums in where he be so that I might look his responses over his giving to others. And not too long after that, this same person posted a opinion to another who is doing a mixer of corals with SPS and his answer to that member were that he needs a turnover rate of 50x to 100x turnover rate, yipes.

Buddy :)

Mr.Firemouth

04-26-2007, 6:13 PM

Buddy, there are several people in your area that post on club-zoa and could help you with working on the tanks. Check with a local fish club also. If you have someone healthier than yourself to help you I can always talk them thru set ups. Just pick a day and we can run a set up thread.

OldManOfTheSea

04-26-2007, 9:05 PM

Hey Rich, we spoken little of the tanks setup. I think I said that the 240 gal tanks sump is being replaced and that the lights on both systems are as well and with that are the reactors and a few minor items to do like the canopy doors, so that when opening the doors upwards, they would stay open. Also being that the 180 is my older tank, its a standard 180 gal tank. I been for a while talking about having some type of protective net going across the back of the tank. That's because for the dwarf eels I will have and as well, any possible jumpers. I did think of the salt creep that the netting will cause and I thought up the idea to have a 4-5" wide glass strips to go across the back of the 180 and due to the fact that I will have some strong lighting, I need to go with all glass here.

Pretty much, I know what I want within these tanks Rich, the problem is that I cannot do all these things myself. For what I meant more about looking for your insight is mostly on the corals. But still if anything be better for my reef tanks in equipment wise, I love to hear it.

So I guess you got the selection of corals and it will be sometime before your thoughts are on those. And once I made the complete listing of which I will have on these tanks coral selection pick, I will then move to the next coral choices in question.

Sorry Rich, I didn't realize in what you meant on the tanks to setup. I paid this lfs guy the money to do all these things for if it was that when I went to this new place that opened about 2.5 years ago that for them to do what I wanted, it would been somewhere around $8,000 and the only reason why I will have another bill with my lfs guy is for the two new ER skimmers and the custom build sump for the 240. Other wise, the bill would be much smaller.

If that other lfs not was as high as they were, I might gone with them and washed my hands with this guy. But I paid enough for these tanks for as it be now, these tanks would cost me more then $36,500 before the cost of the snails and hermits. That's my fault Rich, for I wanted something beautiful for my final tanks in this hobby which is why when I stuck with the thought of SPS corals from 12 years ago, I knew then that it was for me. For I first thought of the idea for some six years or so before I put it into plan.

I'm continuing to collect coral photos from RC right now, I know that I will have some of the same over any number of times and is why I need the help and guidance from one such as yourself in this. I'm a old pro when it came to eels, I know from what many others tells someone that at most, folks only talk of the basics in these animals.

Right now I received an email from one other young person I helped a few times, he knows that I no longer respond to eel questions in the forums. He emailed me asking that he hope that it was ok that he giving this person my email so that he might ask me why his eels are acting as they are. Right now from most of what mike said of this other guys thread, it sounds like his a tess or rather some other large growing species in which requires their free space. Anyway, I will find out more if and when this kid emails me.

Buddy