View Full Version : Strong Lighting?
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 12:33 PM
I am a bit confused here for I see a lot of lighting topics lately, but I am so noob I'm not sure what PC, MH,T-5's, and halides lights are or what they stand for. What is considered "strong lighting"? What is good lighting?
musho3210
04-06-2007, 12:39 PM
NO - Normal output flourecent
HO - Hight output flourecent
VHO - Very high output flourecent
PC - Power Compact flourecent
T5/T5-HO - T5 flourecent
MH - Metal halide
Different corals mean different lights, MH and T5 are most popular in reefs, PC's are also popular.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 12:42 PM
So would a Daylight Compact be considered PC? or is it the same thing?
WeeNe858
04-06-2007, 12:42 PM
PC or Power Compacts seem to be the norm in what people buy.. the cost is just right and the quility and the way it burns is just great. Everything else rotates around the PC. T-5'5 and T-8's are up and coming and seem to be popular with the DIY people or just rebels. they do burn hotter than the PC and you have to run multiple bulbs to get teh same wattage but people say its cheaper. Then you have the MH or MEtal Halides. These are by far the Hottest burning and eat the most wattage, but they give you the essential wattage andbrightness required for corals and some plants. This type of ligting is made for the hardcore enthusist. ushually you can contact your LFS and tell them the tank you have and what you plan to have in there.. then they can help you match up with the corect lighting system
DAYLIGHT= type of lighting color COMPACT=the bulb type
technically daylight is any type of white light used to view fishes.. and anytime you see conpact in it it refers to PC.
LordsSoilder
04-06-2007, 1:06 PM
Lighting is definitely an issue that we should know more about... I am one of those people that have been asking questions and asking for recomendations.
I can tell you that everything I've read so far has been acurate to my knowledge... I would add a couple details though
A T-5 bulb refers to the size, or guage or the bulb ...
I.E. a T-5 bulb has a smaller diameter than a T-8 and a T-8 is smaller that a T-12
A N.O. (Normal output) bulb is a florescent that takes aprox 30-40 watts to run and they put out the least amount of light aside from incadesent light (house lights etc) which doesnt put out any benificial light
A High Output HO (Normally a T-5 HO) takes aprox 50-60watts and gives off a stronger light...
A VHO (Very High Output) takes aprox 100-120 watts and puts out a wide range of color spectrum with light that can penatrate deeper than any of the other florescents.
PC or Powercompact lighting seems to be more like the H.O. T-5's however the seem to be a little more efficient and seem to penitrate the water a little less.
MH or Metal Halides are a very strong light that penitrates deeper than any of the other forms or bulbs... though they put out the same amount of heat as the other bulbs they can easily overheat your water or even burn surrounding due to the fact that the heat is concentrated into a much smaller area...
MH seems to be the best lighting available to reef tanks especially deeper tanks...
The term actinics or daylights refer to the color spectrum that the lights emit.
Actinic put of a blue-purple light that mocks the light in deeper water it is usually dimmer than daylights and does not penitrate as far. Actinics are great lights to simulate the day-night cycle and are best used early in the day and then again at before dusk. most people myself included used these all day long because it is easier and cheaper to use on timers... the simply come on before the daylights and go off after the daylights...
there is another type of light that is being used know as LED's or Light Emiting Diodes... these are generaly small lights that are used to simulate moon light and help spawning and other night marine life...
I know that there are other types of lighting like mercury lights etc. but someone else will have to talk about those simply because I have no knowledge of how they work or their other specifics...
I hope this helps anyone who may have lighting questions...
-LS
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 1:14 PM
So then what is a minimum/maximum lighting for say coral/anenomes?
jojo22
04-06-2007, 1:46 PM
That would depend on species, size of tank placement in said tank and how far away the bulbs are from the water surface, knowing the type of lighting would be really helpfull also you would need more wattage from a t-5 than a halide depending on placement.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 3:17 PM
My current lighting for my 29gal Oceanic:Biocube;
1 - 36 watt True Actinic 03 Blue Straight Pin.
1 - 36 watt 10,000K Daylight Straight Pin.
3- .75 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED
The LFS has one of the same tank set up as I do and they have a few coral/bubble anemones in them. Either I can get away with it or they changed their lighting (maybe I should ask) but im always trying to double check
jojo22
04-06-2007, 3:32 PM
2.4 WPG is not much exoecially in a tank as tall as that!! Maybe and I stress MAYBE way up top!!
Germanman
04-06-2007, 4:08 PM
2.4 WPG is not much exoecially in a tank as tall as that!! Maybe and I stress MAYBE way up top!!
i agree u want more than that really.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 4:12 PM
Would replacing the bulbs for stronger ones be worth it? it seem as is, i already have too much burn upon my LR, every time i turn my sunlight on it usually only take 3 hours for stuff to start turning brown.
jojo22
04-06-2007, 4:28 PM
How old is your tank, please also list paramaters and equipment as well as stock list. You light may help to fuel an algae that is liveing off of excess nutrients to begin with.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 4:32 PM
The tank is only a few weeks old.
Dimensions: 20"L x 20.75"W x 19.25"H
Lighting:
1 - 36 watt True Actinic 03 Blue Straight Pin.
1 - 36 watt 10,000K Daylight Straight Pin.
3- .75 watt Lunar Blue-Moon-Glow LED
Pump Flow Rate: 243 gph (920 L/H) Sponge Filter, 150W heater,
37.5 lbs Live rock
jojo22
04-06-2007, 4:38 PM
Is it still in the cycle??? What are your water tests reading??
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 4:46 PM
I've been done cycling since Tuesday. And so far all i have in it are 2 emarald crabs, 10 hermit crabs, and 6 snails, a CBS, and a cleaner shrimp.
My test are good. everything checks out ok.
musho3210
04-06-2007, 5:25 PM
exact parameters will only help
jojo22
04-06-2007, 5:41 PM
CBS+cleaner= DEAD CLEANER!!!!!!!
And yes exact test results will be needed, what is good to a beginner may not be so good if you get my drift.
Please include a phosphate result if you have the test kit for it.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 6:50 PM
Ok these are the tests i just did.
Amn=0
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=20
Calcium=380
(I do not have pH, but I have kH) which was 230
And wow, the LFS did not tell me about CBS and Cleaner Shrimp are bad together? They seem fine to me.
jojo22
04-06-2007, 7:12 PM
Give it time the cleaner will be killed 99% of the time, you may have a lucky pair but chances are slim.
MarineDream
04-06-2007, 7:15 PM
SO are my tests ok?
jojo22
04-06-2007, 7:36 PM
I would do a small PWC to bring ntrates down to 10 I try to keep at 5 or below and dose Kalk to up your Cal.
I forget the conversion for KH as my test reads in degrees, sorry.