Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro

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snickle

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I am a newbie to planted aquariums. I decided to try the PPS-Pro approach for my 90G. There is lots of information on APC on the PPS-Pro, but not a single guide for the newbie. So I decided to make my own.

This is my take on PPS-Pro derived from countless searches of APC and questions of Edward. I am not saying this is the definitive text on PPS-Pro, but a good start.

I am also not saying this is the only way to grow plants. That would be dumb. The are many good ways of doing something, this just is the one that made the most sense to me.

Newbie Guide to PPS-Pro

What is PPS-Pro?

PPS-Pro is the latest generation of the Perpetual Preservation System developed by Edward. The history and scientific basis for PPS can be found here:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...g/4241-pps-perpetual-preservation-system.html

The goal of PPS-Pro is growing healthy plants with minimal effort.

Isn’t this just fertilizer?

No PPS-Pro is more than just fertilizer. The PPS-Pro solutions are highly advanced fertilizers with years of practical research behind them. But PPS-Pro is also about the approach to growing plants for aquascaping.

What do plants need to grow?

Light, carbon, nutrients (macro and micro), and proper water.

What kind lighting of lighting do I need with PPS-Pro?

PPS-Pro works with lots of different lighting setups. The general

guidelines are:

Low Light ( Under 2 wpg) 10-12 hours a day
Medium Light (2.0 – 3.0 wpg) 8-10 hours a day
High Light ( 3.0 – 4.0 wpg) 7-8 hours a day
Very High Light (4+ wpg) 6 (Expert level)

What do you mean by wpg?

“wpg” stands for Watts Per Gallon. Basically take the number of total watts of the fluorescent bulbs over your tank and divide by the number of gallons the tank is.

Why do plants need carbon and how do they get it?

48% of a plant’s mass is carbon, it is the basic building block of plant life (actually most life).

Plants in nature and in most aquariums get if from CO2 (carbon dioxide) in the water. Plants take the CO2 and release O2 (Oxygen) back into the water via a process called photosynthesis during hours of sufficient light.

How does the CO2 get in the water?

CO2 gets in the water several different ways.

From the air: There is CO2 in the air we breathe and lots in the air we breathe out, many other sources as well.

From the fish: Fish taken in O2 and release CO2, just like a human. Since the fish are breathing in water the CO2 is released into the water.

From us: In most medium to heavy planted tanks, we add supplemental CO2 to the water.

How much CO2 do I need in the water?

A good target is about 1 bps (bubble per second) which is simple to do and safe to fish and sufficient to plants.

Even a tank planted with low light plants can benefit from added CO2

What happened to the “30 ppm Ideal”?

Maintaining 30ppm can be challenging and risky for the fish. Moderate levels about 15ppm are natural and provide plenty of carbon for the plants and allows a much greater safety margin.

What nutrients do plants need to grow?

Plant nutrients breakdown into two categories: Macro (Larger quantities) and Micro (small quantities)

Macro: Nitrates, Phosphates Potassium, Calcium, Carbon, Sulfur, and Magnesium

Micro: Manganese, Iron, Zinc, Copper, Boron, Nickel and Molybdenum

Is there where you give us the formula?

Yes.

Macro Solution

In 1 liter bottle:
59 grams K2SO4 (Potassium Sulfate)
65 grams KNO3 (Potassium Nitrate)
6 grams KH2PO4 (Mono Potassium Phosphate)
41 grams MgSO4 (Magnesium Sulfate)
Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.

Micro Solution

In 1 liter bottle:
80 grams of CSM+B or equivalent trace element mix
Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.


How do I dose PPS-Pro solutions?

Dose 1 ml of each solution per ten gallons of tank size. Dose prior to lights turning on.

Do I need a scale? Can’t I just measure the stuff with a spoon?

You need an accurate scale The scale needs to measure to the gram. Dry chemicals are very powerful and quantities need to be specific.

Where can I get a scale?

Ebay :)

Where can I get the chemicals?

There are many options, but a common one is here:
http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/

Can I mix the two solutions in one bottle?

No. The solution must be kept separate. The trace elements in the Micro mix react badly with the Macro components of the other mix at the concentration present in the solutions.


Why is my macro mix cloudy and stuff settle to the bottom?

A couple potential reasons:
• Impurities in the ingredients
• Did not use distilled water
• Did not let sit overnight
• The container is not a chemical resistant plastic or glass.

No worries, just shake well.

Why do I need to add them in the morning?

The goal is to have the nutrients in the water ready to use when the lights come on. An hour before the lights come on is good.

What do you mean by proper water?

Good water is water that has consistent water parameters, such as pH, hardness, etc. without a build up of potentially toxic chemicals. Ironically the parameters we worry about with fish the most: Ammonia and Nitrites, don’t matter that much to plants.

What do I need to test the water for?

For most part nothing more than you test for when you just have fish.

PPS-Pro does not really require any additional testing. If you want to measure KH and GH fine, but no real need.

Do I need to do regular water changes?

No – Maybe – Yes

No: PPS-Pro does not add excessive nutrients to the tank, so I plants only tank no water changes should be required.

Maybe: In a tank with high fish load like discus fish, the waste from the fish and food could lead to less than desirable water quality. Watch your NO3 nitrate levels. That will give you a good idea.

Yes: Certain substrates leach into the water and require the water to be changed. Water the KH levels.

Water changes do not hurt. So if you have fish go for it.

Do I need to shut off my CO2 at night?

No. CO2 is available in the water full-time in nature, no reason to change that here. Since we are dosing at a lower level (15ppm) we have plenty of safety margin. And stable levels help plants and fish making it harder on algae.

The dosage seems awfully small?

The dosage seems to be is small, the goal is to give the plants what they need, not to overfeed and have nutrients build up in the water.

I am planning on doing a massive water change tonight and then start dosing tomorrow. Should I add a larger dose to start?

No. The dosing should always be the same. The goal is to feed the plants what they can use in a day.
 
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I'm not trying to discredit any that you have said, you are just trying to help, but some things are just plain wrong or sensationalism.

KNO3 is still KNO3, it is not "more" than fertilizers, never was, never will be.

Light is an issue, generalizing light is tough.
That's why I use a light meter using PAR units.

CO2 ideal is ideal, at least that's what all the research literature(Bowes et al, etc etc, a mountain of evidence here) say and what growth rates suggest.
Additionally, poor measurement methods have caused any and all issues or simply not paying attention:eek:

I've yet to have issues as claimed.
Been using CO2 since 1988 and on hundred's of tanks with far more species of fish, about 800, Altums discus etc.

15ppm is anything and long long way from natural, natural is really meaningless in the context of our tanks. Natural waters have a very large variation, I know, I've researched and measured them. Some are 3-5ppm,. some 10, some, very few, 15ppm, some are 25ppm, some are 35ppm, lots of fish in each of these waters...............

When folks say things, you might want to ask if they seem reasonable, then test them yourself, see if these folks have really rested them.

I am very critical of test methods, have been for decades.
There is often very little applied research done in planted tanks.
and often, the research that is claimed is often misapplied and incorrect for support.

BTW, PMDD is nearly the same solution and routine, it's about 12 years old now. Search on line, the only new thing, something I brought into PMDD, was KH2PO4.

That's not Edward's research nor mine, that's many folks before him.

All tanks must have "excess", which farmers call non limiting nutrients for decent growth of the plants.

That's a semantics game.

Why would both I and Amano suggest not adding CO2 at night?
Amano suggested it was Taboo to do so in Japan and bad for fish.

Why expose fish to "Excess levels of CO2"?
Which over a range is far more toxic to fish than NO3/PO4/K+?

I'm not arguing with you personally here, but I am giving you some ideas and questions you should be asking yourself.:cool2:

I've heard folks taking other folks ideas and work and call it their own, but it does get old. PMDD is the basis for the work and experimentation that was done many years before.

The older articles I wrote in the 1990's also suggest a very similar method.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
Tom,

Thanks for your input. It is always good to get input from knowledgeable people.

I disagree with a few of your points, but I am still way too much of a newbie to argue them with any validity.

I have read lots on PMDD, EI and other approaches. I have read a fair amount by Amano, you and others.

The most evident thing to me is no "System" is going to be an approach everyone agrees with.

Like I said at the beginning this is the approach that made the most sense to me. The guide came about from me trying to nail down the specifics of what I was going to do. Some of the questions were ones I personally asked and had answered. I was looking for an approach that would give me a reasonable chance of success without bankrupting me or spending my life testing.

As an engineer, I can appreciate everything you say about testing and applied research and I agree. I just don't want to spend the time to scientifically verify everything I am doing.

You did make one very good point. I should not use the term "Natural" as nothing we are doing in a closed environment is every going to be natural.

Thanks again for the input.
 
OK Guys, really interesting stuff, can I put my oar in the debate?

First off, I'm a plant newbie which is why I like the original post so much. I liked it because it said things about reasonable achievable CO2 levels for a plant newbie rahter than getting ecited about getting to 25ppm.

As a plant newbiw, what I really want is this. A simple guide to getting to an achievable amount of CO2, asimple cost effective way of putting in ferts, etc...and most of all a simple pictorial guide to plants.

I'm a fishkeeper who wants a besutiful plant surrounding my fish, so guys point mein the right direction?
 
Mgamer20o0 said:
if your adding dry ferts and pressurized co2 thats the most coast effective way. turning your co2 off at night will make the co2 last up to 50% longer.
Click to expand...

Not sure I agree, if you take in context of the other recommendation: 15ppm target.

The CO2 flow rate to keep the tank at 15ppm during the day, is less than half what is required to keep it a 30ppm. So assuming 10 hours light cycle, you are only using 20% more if the flow rate required is half. I suspect it is less than that.
 
snickle said:
Not sure I agree, if you take in context of the other recommendation: 15ppm target.

The CO2 flow rate to keep the tank at 15ppm during the day, is less than half what is required to keep it a 30ppm. So assuming 10 hours light cycle, you are only using 20% more if the flow rate required is half. I suspect it is less than that.
Click to expand...

Hmmm..its really not that complicated, turning the co2 off at night will not drop your target for co2 druing the day. Plants do not use co2 at night. WHile it is debateable about turning it off at night..it surely isnt rocket science to figure out that if you dont run it while the plants arent using it, you are going to save co2 with no ill effects including not dropping the target ppm of co2 during the day.

Blue
 
I tried to be nice and respectful to Tom in my initial response. He knows way more about aquatic plants than I ever will. That is a given. Those who follow his approach to plants will be highly successful.

That being said I was very annoyed by a few comments:

KNO3 is still KNO3, it is not "more" than fertilizers, never was, never will be.

I never said otherwise. The PPS-Pro solutions are fertilizer. Duh!

The system is about more than fertilizer, but an overall approach concerning lighting, CO2, PH and aeration.

The solutions are tailored for that overall approach.

Tom mentioned just plain wrong, but did not really specify where. The only specific point he commented on was Co2 levels where he says:


"CO2 ideal is ideal, at least that's what all the research literature(Bowes et al, etc etc, a mountain of evidence here) say and what growth rates suggest."

First question is do we want optimum growth rate? I don't. I don't have lawn mower for my tank.

Second is why does Amano (who Tom reference) run a large percentage of his tanks at 15ppm?

Quote: "Light is an issue, generalizing light is tough.
That's why I use a light meter using PAR units."

Very true! But a newbie and a lot of non-newbies ar enot goign to spend the time and effort. So guidelines are good.

Sorry for venting, but Tom's post implies I had not done any reading or had a vested interested in PPS-Pro. Neither is true.
 
snickle said:
Tom,

Thanks for your input. It is always good to get input from knowledgeable people.

I disagree with a few of your points, but I am still way too much of a newbie to argue them with any validity.

I have read lots on PMDD, EI and other approaches. I have read a fair amount by Amano, you and others.

The most evident thing to me is no "System" is going to be an approach everyone agrees with.

Like I said at the beginning this is the approach that made the most sense to me. The guide came about from me trying to nail down the specifics of what I was going to do. Some of the questions were ones I personally asked and had answered. I was looking for an approach that would give me a reasonable chance of success without bankrupting me or spending my life testing.

As an engineer, I can appreciate everything you say about testing and applied research and I agree. I just don't want to spend the time to scientifically verify everything I am doing.

You did make one very good point. I should not use the term "Natural" as nothing we are doing in a closed environment is every going to be natural.

Thanks again for the input.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is very true for the newbie, they often are confused and generally kind of mad about how the sales pitches all claim to be the best.

So a good article about various methods to grow plants is best.
Now it's not the method that is best, it's really what method achieves the goal of the newbie that's best.

Language that suggest excessive nutrients in other methods are bad, or that higher levels than 15ppm are not "natural", or that excess PO4 cause algae when these folks have never bother to investigate them at all, that's well, salesman snake oil language and we and any newbie ought to be able to spot it.

Greg Watson and Ben Belton both have some decent newbie method articles out on the web.

These are better for newbies to get the straight dope.
I do not use language that sales driven.

I base my methods I suggest, they are not merely EI either, I use marine methods, Non CO2, Excel, and CO2 methods.

I also know enough about plants to know that they are very able to live on less or in richer nutrient routines.

They adjust and adapt. Good thing too.

So newbie folks see some suggesting lean , some suggesting lean, and they think "what is going on?"

Both will work.

Now if you limit say PO4 or nutrients in general, do you think you'd require the same CO2 level?

Do you think the plant would need more or less CO2 if the plant did not quite have much available PO4? Nope, plants regulate NO3/PO4 with CO2 and all the other nutrients.

The CO2 drops when you use limiting levels of nutrients.
So............

What happens if you limit things low enough?
CO2 demand goes way down.
So do growth rates.

Many aquarists like this method, it's called a non CO2 method and it works wonderfully without test kits, all the chemicals and labor.

You cannot argue against another method that uses CO2 and nutrients and suggest that your's in more natural or less labor etc without addressing the various grades.

Methods are hardly black and white as Edward or others might suggest, they are all very similar. What changes is the growth rates due to more/less light and adding CO2/Excel etc.

Here is Ben's article, read this.


http://www.aquatic-plants.org/articles/basics/pages/07_nutrients.html

It's fair and gives credit where it is due without the sales pitches.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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