Hi, i did a fishy cycle with my tank, didnt know any better, know I do. Anyway, ammonia has been long gone (for about a month, tank is 2 months) but nitrite and nitrate are way up. I also believe I had a heavy bioload. Recently I have given away 4 fish due to their projected size, so well see if this helps. I was wondering if my tap water might be the culprit, even though my first 3 weeks or so was free of both. (tap water wouldnt make sense then). http://www.sandiego.gov/water/quality/pdf/quarpt05.pdf Here is the link to my water report, I dont know how to make out the readings(pg. 8) Any, ideas, suggestions or advice on my problem is appreciated.
Water questions
- Thread starter rusty-nail-z
- Start date
Nitrite is not generally associated with municipal water supplies, sometimes nitrate is.
At any rate, if your NO2 (nitrite) numbers are up, you need to do some big-time water changes (50-75%) to bring it back down.
High nitrate means that, for your bioload, you need to do larger and/or more frequent water changes (and that you have no, or too few plants).
Nitrite w/o ammonia means that something may have died and is rotting. If you catch this earlier, you mey see elevated NH3 (ammonia) as well, but populations of ammonia eating bacteria grow and adjust to changes faster than the NO2 eaters do.
NO2 and NH3 being up means either something died quite recently or there has been a change... big increase in bioload (too many new fish at once) or a drop in bacteria populations (if you were to change substrate or rinse filter cart. in tap water, killing the beneficial bacteria). This is also refered to as a "mini-cycle".
At any rate, if your NO2 (nitrite) numbers are up, you need to do some big-time water changes (50-75%) to bring it back down.
High nitrate means that, for your bioload, you need to do larger and/or more frequent water changes (and that you have no, or too few plants).
Nitrite w/o ammonia means that something may have died and is rotting. If you catch this earlier, you mey see elevated NH3 (ammonia) as well, but populations of ammonia eating bacteria grow and adjust to changes faster than the NO2 eaters do.
NO2 and NH3 being up means either something died quite recently or there has been a change... big increase in bioload (too many new fish at once) or a drop in bacteria populations (if you were to change substrate or rinse filter cart. in tap water, killing the beneficial bacteria). This is also refered to as a "mini-cycle".
How high are your readings? what are they exactly?
you'll want to get those nitrites down as soon as you can. nitrates can be relatively high and your fish won't be harmed, but nitrITE will wreck a nice tank.
Do a water change or two and let us know what the results are.
thanx for all the feedback guys, nitrites have been between 1.0 and 2.0 (ppm) and nitrates have been between 20-60 (ppm) depending on a water change. By the way what are some good plants I can throw in my tank. I have a 29g lighting that came with it (Top Fin set up) which I know is not strong at all, I also have an airpump running some bubbles and a powerhead getting circulation. Id like to put some plants in right away. Also, will the standard gravel substrate which I have be okay?
I'm no expert on lighting and plants sadly. Sorry.
Okay, you best get thois nitrites down asap! those levels will affect your fishes health. Good luck!
Swords, Vals & Bacopa can grow w/ very little light, are fast growing nutrient sponges, as is duckweed, but I think it needs more light...
Swords & vals can outgrow most tanks, so I'd look for Bacopa , maybe Wisteria.
Swords & vals can outgrow most tanks, so I'd look for Bacopa , maybe Wisteria.
this is a 29 with std light(15-18 watt)
even if it were a 20 watt you have less than 1 wpg..I would only add , java moss, java fern , anubias, maybe some cryptocoryne. these are slow growers. the only one that needs to be in substrate is the crypto's..the rest are either rizome or will anchor to substrate(no roots-java fern)
if the tank get some sunlight indirectly you may be able to get by with other plants.
the options increase if you can get the wattage to 2 wpg..you still don't need CO2 but you would be at the low end for some swords and other plants.
as for the nitrites..you will need to do a 50% wc and retesr..you should try to get the nitrites no higher than .5.
good luck
even if it were a 20 watt you have less than 1 wpg..I would only add , java moss, java fern , anubias, maybe some cryptocoryne. these are slow growers. the only one that needs to be in substrate is the crypto's..the rest are either rizome or will anchor to substrate(no roots-java fern)
if the tank get some sunlight indirectly you may be able to get by with other plants.
the options increase if you can get the wattage to 2 wpg..you still don't need CO2 but you would be at the low end for some swords and other plants.
as for the nitrites..you will need to do a 50% wc and retesr..you should try to get the nitrites no higher than .5.
good luck
Nitrite and ammonia need to be sitting at 0 and staying there. Do as many water changes as necessary to get the desired levels. Nitrates should preferably be at 20 or less in a healthy tank. As far as the plant selection goes, I would opt for some java moss and maybe some crypts(cryptcorne), and some anubias. These should do ok with the lighting that you have.
Marinemom
Marinemom
thanx for all the help, got those levels down to about 1ppm for nitrite and 10-20 for nitrate, and will be doin another big water change tomorrow. I went ahead and grabbed some java fern too. Didnt really check the quality of it or not enuff cuz there are some holes in some leaves. Will this repair it self my tank, or are they done for?
