Analysis of tap water in my area

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wobble

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May 3, 2005
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I realize RO water is always better than tap water. However, I checked with my water company and got an analysis report. What values should I be concerned with?

Here's some of the results (these are the highest level detected):

Copper 0.05ppm
Nitrates 4.33ppm
PH 8.33
Calcium 32.6ppm
Hardness 122.0ppm

Are these values ok to use for FOWLR or do I need to use RO water?

Thanks
 
Use RO the copper would build up and kill the LR. Copper is never good with LR inverts or coral. Even at .001 it can do damage over time.
 
Thanks, I will do that.

A few more questions.....how do most in the hobby store RO water? Does it have to be RO/DI or will RO work? 55 gallon drum or just get 10 gallons at a time right before weekly water changes?

Sorry for so many questions, I just don't want to screw this up.
 
I actually work for a high purity chemical company and can get all the RO water I want. I'm wondering how to store it at my house.

Also, the RO tank is easy for me to access. However, the RO/DI tank has to be accessed in the clean room. It's easier for me to get the RO water. Is that good enough?
 
wobble said:
I actually work for a high purity chemical company and can get all the RO water I want. I'm wondering how to store it at my house.

Also, the RO tank is easy for me to access. However, the RO/DI tank has to be accessed in the clean room. It's easier for me to get the RO water. Is that good enough?
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RO water should be fine. You can test it to be sure, your main concern would be phosphate and nitrate levels.

You can store the water. I keep 5-10 gals in two small trash cans for top off water as I get tired of hooking up the RO unit.

I know that when I've made too much saltwater that it doesn't keep in a trash can. I get this residue on the bottom, probably algae.
 
I store our RO/DI water in two 7g drinking water jugs -- the kind that you can get at any department / sporting goods / camping store for around $5 - $6. I prefer them simply because they're designed to hold drinking water (i.e. the plastic is food grade plastic and won't leach anything) and they close up completely tight (prevents outside contamination during storage).

RO water should be fine for a FOWLR, especially if it's RO water from a quality RO unit with a high rejection rate.
 
I know the jugs you are talking about. I use them myself for camping. I'll pick up several extra.

One final question, then I'll leave you all alone.......well....for a bit...:grinyes:

When I filled my tank, the directions on the Instant Ocean container said 1/2 cup per gallon. I did that, but had to add several cups more to the tank in order to reach the desired specific gravity. Is there a normal amount to add to one of these containers so I can just mix and add during water changes? Even if someone could get me close it would save me alot of time trying to figure out how much to add.

Thanks again for everyones help.
 
Measure the first time you fill them and write it down, then add that each time you fill them, BUT ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK, you may not count a cup or double count one on accident so always check!!!
 
Definately!! I don't want to kill fish cause I have a brain fart counting...

I've been keeping African cichlids for awhile and am used to adding buffer to raise ph, gh, and kh. It took me a bit to figure out how much to add for my Malawi tanks and Tanganyikan tanks, since they require different water parameters. I was just looking for some kind of baseline to start with for marine since I'm so new at this.

Can I pre-mix the salt and store for several weeks?

Is there a difference between RO and RO/DI water for tanks? Does the DI really make a difference? If so, I can get RO/DI. I just have to dress up in a bunny suit to get it.:silly:
 
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