Planted tank Filter
- Thread starter joshob
- Start date
Plants don't generally add a lot of crud to the water column, but when they do contribute, they can do so in substantial amounts.
I'd "round up" to be on the safe side. For example - if you were setting up a 46g bowfront and looking at Eheim classics, you could go with a 2213 or a 2215. For a FO tank, a 2213 would be fine as long as you keep a reasonable bioload. For a planted tank, you would benefit from having the 2215. Its stronger pump will help maintain circulation despite the presence of plants and it can filter junk out faster than the 2213 (nice to know if you have a greenwater outbreak or a crypt meltdown).
One other consideration - many planted tank owners use CO2. Keeping CO2 levels up in hte 15-30ppm range requires that there be only modest surface agitation (you want to introduce some O2 w/o driving off the CO2). This pretty well eliminates most HOB and bio-wheel equipped canister filters from serious consideration for many of those planning a planted tank.
I'd "round up" to be on the safe side. For example - if you were setting up a 46g bowfront and looking at Eheim classics, you could go with a 2213 or a 2215. For a FO tank, a 2213 would be fine as long as you keep a reasonable bioload. For a planted tank, you would benefit from having the 2215. Its stronger pump will help maintain circulation despite the presence of plants and it can filter junk out faster than the 2213 (nice to know if you have a greenwater outbreak or a crypt meltdown).
One other consideration - many planted tank owners use CO2. Keeping CO2 levels up in hte 15-30ppm range requires that there be only modest surface agitation (you want to introduce some O2 w/o driving off the CO2). This pretty well eliminates most HOB and bio-wheel equipped canister filters from serious consideration for many of those planning a planted tank.
Many, many folks successfully use HOB filters in planted tanks, including myself. Especially consider HOB for smaller tanks, 10g-20g's, when price is a consideration. There are ways to make sure you keep surface agitation to a minimum.
If money is not an issue and/or you have large tank(s), canisters are probably a better investment.
If money is not an issue and/or you have large tank(s), canisters are probably a better investment.
As mentioned the issues with CO2 off gasing is only important oif you add excess CO2 to your tank. Otherwise any filter will work fine. They all have advantages and disadvatanges. If it is a smaller tank the HOB is a fine choice.
All filters will require cleaning regularly.
I use both canister and HOB. The HOB clogs up faster but is far easier to clean. The canister I can let go for at least a month but is a much larger task to work with when taking it apart, plus the hoses need tobe clean occasionally as well.
All filters will require cleaning regularly.
I use both canister and HOB. The HOB clogs up faster but is far easier to clean. The canister I can let go for at least a month but is a much larger task to work with when taking it apart, plus the hoses need tobe clean occasionally as well.
Charcoal is unnecessary in most cases. Unless you are using a standard undergravel filter you shouldn't need to worry about filters much, other than for extreme surface agitation. Folks use all kinds of filters with success.
I would be more concerned with nutrient loss from overzealous gravel vacuuming.
I would be more concerned with nutrient loss from overzealous gravel vacuuming.
No carbon.
I also suggest using a couple of smaller filters over one bigger one as you will get less strong current which can blow plants around or cause them to lean. There are other benefits from doing this such as better coverage and not losing 100% of filtration if a filter stops.
I also suggest using a couple of smaller filters over one bigger one as you will get less strong current which can blow plants around or cause them to lean. There are other benefits from doing this such as better coverage and not losing 100% of filtration if a filter stops.