Reverse flow pwrhd effects

Dempsey

Dempsey

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Oct 28, 2007
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:read: As a precaution I am having to reseal my tank due to a hungry pleco., And am rethinking my set up. All I have are some loaches. I recently lost one clown that I had for almost 30 years. I understand that there are many variables, but generally with a fresh water 60 gal undergraval continuously running a magnum 360, would a 600gph pwrhd be ok if I am running the two at opposite ends of the tank. I also was wondering about how the two would effect each other. Should I go with a reverse flow pwrhd in order to complete the flow of current. I know that mags. are old school. I remember my years with several tanks of Dempseys, these days I prefer something requiring less maintenance. Any suggestions. Be kind.
 
I run one with std powerheads on each end and a second tnk with reverse flow powerheads on each end.

I have never used a std powerhead on one end and a reverse flow on the other...might be self defeating.
 
are you talking about running the pumps on the UGF, or purely as additions to tank circulation, not attached to anything?

if you go with opposite flow on either side of the UGF, you'll get one of two outcomes with most of the flow being forced through the filter OR the UGF, whichever provides the least resistance:

1) flow being forced into the filter and up through the UGF,
2) flow being sucked through the powerhead and down through the UGF.

i wouldnt recommend it. UGFs should always be run with the same direction of flow on all intake/outputs.
 
To UGF or not to UGF that is the question.

I guess I'm just trying to reinvent the wheel, since I'm looking at a totally dry 60g tank ready for me to reseal. After many years & the loss of aged fishes the tank is about to start a new life. Like I have an empty living canvas, and I know how to paint...but I'm not sure what I want to have hanging on my wall for the next 10+ years & I want to do it right. I have a 30 g fresh water with 3 clown & 2 zebra loaches (each about 2.5") and a pleco who is about 4.5 ". I was going to move them to the newly refurbished 60g with a couple new,yet to be determined, tank mates. Any suggestions as to filtration (biowheel...hot magn.)which might be quieter than the magnum on the UGF with a pwrhd at top on the opposite end. I do have hard wood floors so I need to keep mist and splatter to a minimum. Thanks for your consideration.
 
Dempsey said:
IAny suggestions as to filtration (biowheel...hot magn.)which might be quieter than the magnum on the UGF with a pwrhd at top on the opposite end. I do have hard wood floors so I need to keep mist and splatter to a minimum. Thanks for your consideration.
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I have 3 Penguin 660R powerheads running an RUGF in my 75, they are quiet, and totally mist/splatter free. The sponges and the gravel provide biofiltration; for when I need carbon I have a Whisper 60 HOB to take up the slack...A Whisper 40 'size or similar is probly OK for a 60. I find the HOB is way louder than all three powerheads, tho...and that still aint very loud!

I have a 40 Breeder in the guest bedroom with two 660Rs (also RUGF) and a Whisper 60. If I have company that's sensitive to noise, I shut off the HOB (put it on the light timer actually)...the powerheads stay on...nary a complaint.
 
I second the 660R's ..I have them on my tanks and they are great 0 splatter and quiet(you don't even know they are running)
 
Thanks to all for your powerhead suggestions, I've just never gone with RUGF. Looks like it's about time that I did. Question, how do I keep from the melted brine shrimp and other light food material from being sucked into the sponges? And at what depth in a 60 should I have them placed, close to surface for O2? Thanks again
 
I'm going to answer myself with the obvious...turn off the pumps while feeding.
 
Mag 350s are not old school....I am running over 25 of them along with several new "C" series.

All the other filter manufacturers are trying to convince you how much surface area their filters provide for you, when it really doesn't matter. The bacteria colony is always only going to be as big as your bio-load is.

You can have thousands of square inches of surface area, but the colony will only be as big as your bio-load can feed. The bacteria do not know to go live in the canister. They will live wherever there is water and the proper O2 content.

All of my 90's run with 4 Penguin 660 powerheads to a RUGF and 2 Mag 350s being the main mechanical filter.

All my 75's run with 2 Mag 350s driving the RUGF.

I can pull any canister at any time and clean it with bleach, replace anything I want and never have a ammonia/nitrite spike. The substrate is where my bacteria congregate.
 
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Dempsey said:
I'm going to answer myself with the obvious...turn off the pumps while feeding.
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Don't need to...the sponges are MEANT to act as a filter. Uneaten "floaties" will be drawn to the sponge and feed the bacteria on it. It really won't get as bad as you think. Also fish/shrimp/snails will graze off the sponges...ever see a ghost shrimp tank with a sponge filter in it? They're all over it.

Don't want to...they might have to reprime each time, adding to noise/hassle. Plus you might forget to turn 'em back on.

They really ARE pretty quiet and hassle free. You don't need carbon most of the time....if you didn't need surface circulation, you could just do a bunch of RUGF powerheads. most of us like SOME movement, hence canister or HOB. My HOBs are basically water circulators unless I need carbon.

Not sure what the footprint is in a 60...48x12? I'd suggest at least 2, maybe 3 660R powerheads, spaced out ~evenly along the tank. Height: bottom of sponge ~ 1-2" off the substrate. More likely to pick up the crud near the bottom, less likely to lose prime if water level drops, high enough to allow you to pull off the sponge for cleaning.
 
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