Dynamic tank stand ideas needed.

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kcress

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Apr 9, 2005
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I have remodeled my entire living room so I can change aquariums. I have yanked the entire fireplace out leaving a wood chase, and drywalled the space. It's 26" deep by exactly 6ft wide, (dang). The floor of the chase space is masonry and can support about 5 tons.

The tank will be 68" wide, 24" deep, and 36" tall.

This means it will weight about 2,500 lbs.

Because there is a 14" header spanning the old fireplace a 36" tall tank would provide a mere 11" of access which can only be from the top, since there are walls, (the chase), on the back and sides.

More room a must. If the tank was one foot lower I'd have about 23" of top access which would be fine. However this causes a major aesthetics hit.

So! I want the tank to raise and lower 12". Has anyone tried this? If so what did you use? Ball actuators? Hydraulics?

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Thanks.
 
You could use threaded rod system with gears and chain connecting 4 screws. You can't use the typical threaded rod, but some hardware does sell the stout stuff like in a "C" clamp.

Then a small motor can run the chain.

You would most likely need a nice steel framework for it all to reside on. Stainless would be best.

If you have room in the header area, you could just use any form of cable winch system and lift from above. Syncronizing all corners is a bit toughter with a cable system.
 
I would take this to MFK if you haven't already. More people are obviously doing bigger tanks there.
 
Look on craigslist and see if you can find a car lift? The problem with using hydraulics will be that the piston has to recede someplace, i.e. a hole in the floor. May not be an option. Linear actuators would be an option but getting a few to support that much weight would cost a fortune. Best idea is probably an electronic winch/chain hoist. You'll need to design a very heavy duty shelf that can be suspended by the corners, and carry that much weight with no deflection. Its definitely possible, buit will be very expensive. I would definitely let an engineer design it and get it all fabricated.
 
Thanks folks!


Grins; You've missed the slick part! It's in a fireplace chase.. This means two 13" Light Pipes pumping the Sun directly into the tank. That's like a couple of 400W HIDs. So my day lighting is greatly reduced. That was, in fact, the original motivator for the project.

snailrider; I like that.. You mean Acme threads I believe. They are specifically designed to transfer power and work well. Hmmm.

atnixon; While normally I would agree with your setiment, doing this project myself is a big part of the "experience and pleasure" to be derived by it.

Eupterus: MFK?? Marginally Friendly Kangaroos?

sploke; There will be 34" under the bottom of the tank when in the lowered position as the chase area drops to below the the room's floor level by a foot. I am considering a single hydraulic jack that just sits under the center and raises and lowers things the needed 12". The four corners would be guided and ultimately at the bottom the four corner supports would bottom out so the jack can be removed for service, etc., and at the top there are latches that lock the the corner supports so the the tank sits on mechanical stops - not the hydraulics.

Suspending from above would require a much stouter chase and would lead to swinging pendulum syndrome in an earthquake. Might be kinda cool for that swaying kelp forest effect though.. :grinyes:

Also, I am an engineer and do my own TIG welding so building a stout trussed and gusseted shelf is not a problem for me.
 
I like the Light Pipe idea...I actually thought about that for when I do a big tank when we build the addition. I'm curious to see how well it works out.

In that case, if you have the hole already, a hydraulic jack would definitely be able to handle that. The only hard part I would be leery about is balancing it. You can definitely weld up a platform stiff enough to support the weight, but balancing it on a single cylinder in the middle would be scary as heck to me. Maybe use 3 of them spread across the span? Then bolt the trussed platform to the top plate on the lift. I'm not sure how you would secure the bottom part of the jacks, I guess drill into the concrete and bolt them down.
 
I would stay away from hydraulics for personal reasons of dependability.

Many 4 story buildings use hydraulic elevators. To keep it balanced is no problem, just some tracks and wheels for it to run in.

The car lift is a great design. The four post with chains type, not the air piston type. Problem if a chain breaks, or one stretches.

The big concern is smoothness. I think the screw would be the smoothest safest way. It could be done with two or four screws. Build a good cradle if you use steel. Tig would just take forever, buzz box and 7018 ac or dc.

I am a journeyman welder with great fab and design skills. My stuff works and lasts. Sounds like you have a good grasp on this also. With the screws you can use electric or hand crank.

Maybe some thrust bearings or bushings on the bottom. If you make it as a stand alone unit, if you ever moved, it could go with.

I thought I heard mention that you are in CALI. If so and you are in Orange county... on Edinger just off the highway McFadden Dale hardware has the screw. They have the nuts also.

Large diameter stuff also. Buy your metal at Benner Metals in Orange.

Follow me on this. Get the screw rod, have the end machined to accept your sprocket (cam shaft spocket maybe) then have it so you can put a tapered wheel bearing, (or use break hubs) all secured in a nice solid frame.

Syncronizing the screws would have to be allowed for leveling purpose.

I may may a sketch for the fun of it
 
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