Really Bad Parametres Need Help on What To Do...

[kano5003]

Ok last night my scopas tang died because of my parametres. ok i test my parametre every 2 weeks. and just this week they all went up. I think its becuase of my canister i am getting these spikes but my parametres are as follow:
Salinity: 1.028
P.H: 7.8
Phosphate: 1.0
Nitrite: 0.25
Nitrate: 80
Ammonia: 0
With my P.H i added some coral life P.H buffer so P.H should be ok. Please tell me what my parametres should be. and what i should do i think im going to get Phosguard for my canister and im going to take out all the carbon noodles. Thanks..

Kane Ellis....

[kano5003]

Ohh i forgot to mension that i just moved all my live rock and its very umm whats the word dirty. I did my last water change 1 and a half weeks ago. but while i moved the rocks after that i did the testing this may have affected the testing?????

Kane Ellis.....

[nycsicktank]

Salinity: 1.024-26
P.H: 8.0-8.2
Phosphate: 1.0-should be undetectable
Nitrite: 0.25-0
Nitrate: 80-thats pretty high
Ammonia: 0-perfect

[archer772]

I think Nitrite should be zero also and Nitrates should be less than 20. What do you have for power heads in your tank because with enough flow and LR that is all you need for filtration except for a good skimmer and some macro. I would never run any type of HOB or Cannister filter unless I had to run carbon or phosgaurd because I feel that the only thing they do is cause Nitrate problems. I would start doing 30-50% water changes untill your parameters are back in line

[kano5003]

Ok well this is my situation. I bought 2 koralia pumps online right. They havnt come yet but they are 3000 LPH (litres Per Hour). So at the moment i have no pumps. Also are you sure thats all the filtration i need is pumps and protien skimmer and live rock. Because pumps only just pump not filter and my protien skimmer basically gets nothing in its cup when it is supposed to get green stuff in there. It does get some in there but not much. and all my LFS have canister filters. But you are right i have heard that canister filters do create to much Nitrates. Please help me on what to do should i keep it but just change the filter media inside of it??? or wat??


Kane Ellis Thanks.......

[kano5003]

also i am running carbon is that bad or good????

[archer772]

How much live rock do you have, there should be between 1 and 1 1/2 lbs per gallon of water and flow should be about 25-40 times total water volume, with that your LR does the filtering for your tank. What type of skimmer do you have also are you running a sump?

[clown-lover]

Here is an article that I have posted several times by Randy Holms Farley about nitrite in the aquarium.. For some reason the FW thoughts about nitrites keep on raising their head in the SW hobby. Nitrite is NOT as detrimental to SW fish as it is to FW fish and in fact most SW fish can handle a level of nitrites.

To the OP as far as your params go, next water change mix your specific gravity lower so that you decrease the overall specfic gravity of your display tank. The following link will be able to help you determine what you need to mix your water to achieve a 1.025 to 1.026 level.

http://www.garf.org/calculators/evaporationcalculator.asp

As far as the nitrates go you need to look at something that will help you with nutrient export. These will be things like macroalgae, such as Cheato or even mangrove trees. Simple water changes really don't help this. If you are running a canister filter it is impertative that you perform bi-monthly routine maintenance on these units so they don't become a nitrate factory. That means media change, sponge change or excessive cleaning and ensuring you have removed all foreign matter.

You also need to find out where the phosphates are coming from. With your two paramaters of nitrate and phosphate I am surprised that you are not having some sort of algae issue, chaeto will help with removal of the phosphates to a certain extent as well, as other macro algaes.. If you are using tap water I recommend that you find an RO/DI Unit and start using that water for your water changes and replacement for evaporated water.

[kano5003]

Ok i have 20 killos of live rock and i have 350 litre tank. As i am 15 i cannot install or buy a Ro unit As well i do not need one. I have been very lazy with water changes and filter media cleans. But i do have quite abit of algae on the back glass. But my tap water is fine as i treat it with anty clorine and not just that all the rest it treats and i live in australia really good water here. Thanks

Kane Ellis....

[kano5003]

Hey, I have just taken out 12 litres of very bad water, poos, exes food ect. and then added 30 litres and that filled it up to the top. I also added a pump a aquaone 350 LPH pump......


Kane Ellis..........

[Grins]

My guess is the lack of maintenance has caused the issues, the salinity is high as well...are you topping off with fresh water or salt water?

[jagr200]

Ya those levels are really bad! Why did you take out 12 litres and add 30! Does that mean you had 18ltrs of evaporation! That is why your parameters are out of wack. Especially your Gravity.

[kano5003]

Yes evaporation has done it....

[clown-lover]

Oh my.. I made an assumption that you were topping your tank off as most SW Aquarist do this on a daily basis. Now your specific gravity may be a little on the low side.. Did you use that specific gravity calculator link I posted earlier???

I would also suggest that you start READING. A lot and quickly before anything else detrimental happens in your system.

[JohnLin]

If I have to guess the cause of the death for the fish, it's probably the drop of pH that did it.

Yes, the SG is high, but if it's a gradual raise due to the evaporation, that shouldn't kill the tang all of a sudden.

Yes, you shouldn't have phosphate, but that does nothing to the fish.

Yes, you shouldn't have traceable nitrite, but like stated, nitrite aren't as fatal as it is in FW.

Yes, your nitrate is very high in the tank for SW, but there are several studies out there saying fish can tolerate nitrate level even higher than that, it's the inverts that are far more sensitive to nitrate.

So considering all these facts, I would slowly add the pH increaser as the fluctuation is far worse for critters to fare.

[Catpicklesdog]

I agree with the above plus if you haven't got any powerheads in there as you previously stated then I'd also suggest that you probably don't have much oxygen going around.

[jagr200]

First you need to get your Gravity to about 1.024 when the tank is COMPLETELY full. Then you should start doing regular water changes atleast 1 time a week and topoff your tank atleast every other day. That should bring your PH back up and keep you Gravity constant which in turn will lower your trites and trates.

[kano5003]

Hey, I am taking this as a spike in a cycling stage so i think i should take this as a cycling stage ill list the equiptment that i am getting off a site i know:

The following is what i have ordered off of www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au (http://www.guppysaquariumproducts.com.au/) are:

x2 Koralia pumps for each end of aquarium 3000 LPH.
x1 T5 unit x3 54 watt high input getting rid off old dailbarb.
x1 Salt bag mixes 120 litres of water.
x1 ballast to fix my T5 sun sun unit.

That is what i need and should be here tommorow so i think i should be ok if i keep my parameters all up to shape.

Thanks Kane Ellis.......

[Grins]

Cycling stage? Perhaps we should start this at the beginning...how long has this tank been set up?

[archer772]

I thought this tank had been setup for a year???????????? if not and you are still cycling I think you went way to fast

[jagr200]

Yup you should never have fish until you have the proper equipment.

[kano5003]

No No my tank is 1 year old i said take it easy like i was cycling it. Like water changes big ones till it gets good then add more live stock..


Kane Ellis.....

[jagr200]

You have to add all LR at once so you dont start your cycle again and again.