My Ammonia is Still Really High After a Water Change...

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

Hi guys, I had 4 White Clouds and I lost one today :confused:

I tested the ammonia and it was abnormally high, reading at about 1 (ppm?). In the past, maybe 2 weeks ago, when I last checked, it was zero. I immediately did like a 25% water change, and the reading looks exactly the same.

Should I do a 50% change? It's wierd.

Thanks.

[theotheragentm]

If you still have ammonia, yes. Do another water change. Fish deaths often lead to ammonia spikes.

[Mgamer20o0]

any ammonia in your tap? i would do at least 50-75% water change. any other things change? you using prime?

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

okay, i just did a 50% change (after the 25) and the ammonia level has been reduced, yet it's still not at zero. i added some "Cycle" to the tank (a very tiny amount) hoping that it would help with bacteria to consume the ammonia. i dont know if this would work, but still... i tried.

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

any ammonia in your tap? i would do at least 50-75% water change. any other things change? you using prime?

Is Prime something you can add to your tank (like Cycle) that introduces beneficial bacteria?

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

you know.. im thinking that my tank is cycling... i mean, the ammonia was only at 1 (which isn't as high as it could be, but still high) and i only have a few small white clouds in there. i had been cycling the tank before with old gravel, but maybe it didn't work and only now am i getting bacteria and ammonia readings. i got the tank almost 5 weeks ago then after 3 weeks i added the fish. they've been in there ever since.

[mellowvision]

prime is a dechlorinator.

chlorine kills bacteria.

bacteria reduces amonia.

[Rbishop]

If you "cycled" the tank with used media, then let it sit for 3 weeks, you lost any beneficial bacteria the media had.

You then added fish, which added a bio-load and produced ammonia. It wouldn't surprise me that early on even with fish you got readings of no ammonia.

Prime is a dechlorinator that breaks down chlorine and chloramine. But it also binds ammonia to a non-toxic form to prevent damage to your fish and it is still available to the good bacteria.

What is the ammonia reading on your tap water?

Continue water changes to keep ammonia and nitrites less than .25. Your tank is cycling. The "Cycle" product is not going to help, IMO.

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

thanks guys, useful stuff.

[Bnoble]

what kinda of filter do u have, oh and is that a bottle of Remy Martin in your hand?

[Marinemom]

I would test the tap water to see if you have ammonia readings there. you might have your problem there. I think your tank is still cycling. You said the tank has been up and running fr five weeks and the fish have been in the tank for a few weeks now. Sounds like you are in the middle of a cycle. Keep doing water changes to keep levels at acceptable levels during the cycling process and make sure you test the water so you know where your levels are every day. This is very important when the tank is cycling and basically for the first year the tank is running until the tank settles down into a normal routine and matures. This will also give you time to get your maintenace schedule routine as well..

Marinemom

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

thanks everyone (and yes, that is a bottle of remy red in my hand).

i did another water change today, leaving the ammonia level at around 0.25 (maybe a little higher). also, the nitrites are around 1 while the nitrates are at zero (i'm using dip sticks, which aren't nearly as accurate, yet they're helpful enough). before this entire ammonia incident, i noticed the nitrites were high about 2 days ago and i added more water (the tank wasn't filled as much as it could be) which helped with the nitrite level.

so now, i guess i'm waiting for a nitrite spike? then some actual nitrate readings?

how long could this last? yesterday the ammonia was 1 or more before i did any water changes. i just want the fish to survive is all and i've already lost one guy.

[Rbishop]

Well, since you have fish in there, I would do whatever water changes you need to keep ammonia and nitrites below .25 ppm.

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

Thanks.. also, some of the shiny rocks I bought at petco and a little white cave that came with my tank have grown these little brown spots. they just look like brownish discolorations on the rocks and the cave, and there are more and more of them the past week or so. could this be brought on by simply being in the water? or, is it an indication of something else? thanks.

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

the brown spots kind of look like rust, it's wierd.

[wataugachicken]

the "rust" is diatomaceous algae, which usually shows up in new/cycling tanks. nothing to worry about except the way it looks, and it usually goes away on its own. once the tank is cycled and if the brown algae remains, you could get some otos to eat it, but the tank needs to be heated and they will need to be fed regularly once the algae is gone.

[FAcT_oR_FiCTiON]

thanks everyone!

the ammonia is back to normal right now (zero)... so maybe i'm cycled? the only problem is that brown algae is still in there and some parts of it look like they're turning a slight green color... uh oh!

[Marinemom]

I would not get otos for the sole purpose of eating the brown algae. Many times they will clean the tank of this mess and then starve because they do not want any other food suppliment that you offer them. The brown algae is called diatoms and is very common in newly set up tanks. It is caused from silicates that are in the glass of the aquarium that leech out into the water. It will go away on its own even if you do nothing about it but that could take some time. In the mean time it is easily removed during normal tank maintenance. If after several weeks or months and this does not clear on its own, you may want to test your tap water. Some tap water is very high in silicates and may be the cause of this issue.

Marinemom