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View Full Version : watts/gallon and my list of stuff


Jamie
08-08-2003, 12:58 PM
If i've been a pain at all- sorry and thanks for taking the time to read my posts. I've tried to do everything right in regards to setting up my new 150 but i think that the lights are gonna be the end of me. I finally figured out a way to completely cover my tank within my 60" canopy (lighting kits from ahsupply). Ultimately I will end up with about 3.5 watts/gal. I have read that this is good and this is bad. Some say that even 2 w/g is bad for a large tank. Some side info- I have a good press. CO2 system and will be fertilizing using pmdd. Thanks- Jamie

I thought I might provide a list of what I bought so far and see what ya'll think:

150g tank (60x24x24) w/ oak stand and canopy
Wet/Dry filtration system (about 5 gal of bioballs)
Custom Sealife Velocity T4 for my return pump
150# of flourite for the substrate ($ouch$)
Pressurized CO2 System (10# bottle w/ reg., solenoid, bubble counter, needle valve, and Milwaulkie S122 pH controller, with homemade inline reactor)
1 lg piece of malaysian driftwood, talked to albert @ aquacave, I'll probably be getting another large piece. very attractive looking and only $17- will this stuff leech?
50' Python No SPill
Rena Cal Top Lite 300W heater
A.P. Freshwater Master Kit
Python Net
Stress Coat
PC Lighting Sys from ahsupply??????
plants- talked with robert from aquabotanica, a nice guy, looking to get a preassembled assortment.
fish- i plan on getting large schools of small fish. i.e. raspboras and cardinals.


am I missing anything??? besideds water lol

Shiftaltumlock
08-08-2003, 3:15 PM
I dont understand why someone would tell you that 3.5 wpg is bad. 3.5 wpg is a GOOD thing. It would be overkill if you didnt have Co2 injection, but you do, so no problemo.
I have 4.5 wpg on a 75 gal with Co2 and the plants bubble like mad.

IMO, the wet/dry filter would not be a good choice for a planted tank that has pressurized Co2. That filter will gas off all the Co2 you are trying to add. I think you would do much better with a cannister. An Eheim 2028 or a Fluval 404 would be a good choice for a Co2 injected planted tank.

Also, dont forget the Nitrate test kit. If you are going to dose nitrate you will need the kit until you figure out the dosage for your tank. You should try to keep it around 5 to 7 ppm.

djlen
08-08-2003, 6:38 PM
You are doing it right Jamie. Ask the questions and make informed decisions. This will avoid many(but, alas not all) of the pitfalls of a planted tank. There will be issues, but when they come up you'll know how to handle them.
I agree with the statement that 3.5 watts/gal. CAN be a problem initially as with that much light things happen quickly. However with the pressurized system you have a jump on most plant newbies. Balance is what you should seek and finding that balance requires you to learn your tank and knowing how your plants(hopefully tons of them) will respond to the nutrients you will be dosing.
I kind of cringe when someone uses the term PMDDs. Every tank has it's own needs. There is no set formula for how much to dose of the required ferts. Look over the sticky on nutrients at the top of the Plants page. Then you'll have even MORE questions to ask!!!:)
You're going to need N,P,K and Traces right from the get go. That sticky will tell you where to get them at a reasonable price.
Two of them need to be monitored on a regular basis, IMO. A Phosphate test kit is necessary, and a Nitrate kit is an absolute must. A pH tester will be your guide as to dosing your CO2.
I definitely agree with 'Shifty" above as to his recommendation of a cannister filter as opposed to a Wet-Dry for the reason he mentions.
Lastly(never thought this would end did you), AH Supply is, to my knowledge the best place to purchase your lighting. Not only do they have a quality product, but they will work with you to help you in all phases of your needs.
Hope this has helped.....keep the questions coming.
Len

RTR
08-09-2003, 9:39 AM
Some W/Ds are CO2 losers. Most commercial W/Ds are not, and if they are it is generally from the tank overflow, not from the filter tower - and if the design is not awful it can largely be corrected. This is rapidly becoming an aquarium myth.

Timmain42
08-09-2003, 5:02 PM
Originally posted by RTR
Most commercial W/Ds are not [CO2 losers] ... This is rapidly becoming an aquarium myth.

I concur. Through personal experience, I find that correct placement of the reactor/diffuser is key, but a w/d tower bleeds off less co2 than surface ripple.

125gJoe
08-09-2003, 11:28 PM
On the canister filters, I believe you will be much happier with a Rena Filstar xP-3. The Filstar "filters" better than the Fluval 404 and the Filstar actually has handles too which helps a lot during cleaning!

I almost forgot to add, the spray bar can be set up different ways.. Options are good... You'd want to keep the 'spray bar' under the surface with a live plant set-up. :)