View Full Version : RO/DI filter question...
bigbcop911
03-23-2008, 1:06 AM
I've seen a lot of discussion about RO/DI filter's so can someone enlighten me as to how absolutely necessary they are. I understand the concept, but wondered is it something I need to invest in. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
7faces
03-23-2008, 1:42 AM
Im a complete noob, so my word is definately not the last on the subject.
but, from everything ive read...Yes! it is a must.. alot of bad things can be introduced from tapwater. I myself work with a tight budget, and read somewhere that you can use just RO water.. a RO water filter is quite a bit cheaper than the high end aquarium RO/DI's at the LFS. Check your local hardware store for an RO unit.
compare what the LFS sells RO/DI SW for per Gallon, and you might find it well worth purchasing even as cheap insurance.
WoodRight
03-23-2008, 1:43 AM
hello there,
Now I'm very new to the hobby but have just set up my first fish tank. We did go with the RO/DI filter from the start. The first reason that we did it was because the size of the setup we went with. In total the set up is around 100gal give or take. We didn't want to start off with tap or distiled water because once it's in there it would be very hard to get it out. Now by it I mean everything that is in that water that you don't want. If we were to go and buy RO/DI water from a LFS it would be about 90 to 95 cents a gallon. So for just the first fill with tax it would be around $100.00 and then you have to get it home. It would be like 20 5gal buckets and that is with no extra for top offs. Our setup is going threw a bit more then 1gal a day. So if you look at how much your going to spend on water just to get it going then look at how much the filter will cost then it's not hard to figure out what to do. Our whole RO/DI setup cost around $230.00. We would have spent that in like 2 months anyway. Also it think it has helped allot with any algae blooms. We haven't had any real blooms at all. It may seem like allot of money but if you think about moving it from place to place and having to goto the LFS every time you need water, the gas, the time and everything it's so much cheaper and easier with the filter all around. Unless you have a very small tank. I can see it not being necessary.
I hope this helps and like I said I'm new so take thisfor what it is. I'm sure others that know more then me will come by and post.
Good luck!
Sean,
OH here is a picture of our setup. I would suggest it but there are allot of them out there.
bigbcop911
03-23-2008, 7:51 AM
Thank you both for your response. I have already filled my tank and though I'm not real big on using chemicals to treat my tank, I purchased some PRIME that was suggested by my LFS and was advised this would take all the unwanted minerals from the water. Good or Bad idea??
Boltster
03-23-2008, 9:36 AM
I think some of the issues tap water presents are nitrates, phosphates and silicates. The phosphates are reduced with phosphate remover but I don't believe the silicate removers are as effective. Plus you will constantly reintroduce possibly more nitrates etc. on each top off. Mine loses about 1/2 gal a day, so it is a lot of water.
A lot of diatom issues occur in the beginning, especially with tap water because of the silicates. I purchased a RO/DI unit after about a month and it has been well worth it. Algae/diatom issues cut WAY down. Believe me, those darn diatoms can been seen on the glass about 48 hrs after wiping it off. They reproduce EXTREMELY fast and cover everything. Plus they smell like a fishing pier.
I think a RO/DI unit is essential.
bigbcop911
03-23-2008, 10:20 AM
Ok... Any ideas on the best place to acquire a decent system and what I need exactly for the tank I have. (60gal.) Also, could someone briefly explain how these work??
dolfans1
03-23-2008, 12:17 PM
I consider using RO/DI water a must. To me, using tap water is like buying a sports car and filling it up with regular gas instead of the high octane - it will run, but probably not well, and will cause problems in the long term. If you're going to be investing $$$ in your tank, making sure you start with good quality water is just common sense. A decent RO/DI system can be bought on the internet for ~$100 - which is about the cost of 2 fish (sometimes one!) or a couple of corals, and we never seem to think twice about plunking that kind of money of a fish or coral. At the very least it will give you peace of mind - if you read the posts on AC here, you will see how many people ask if a certain problem could be caused by them using tap water (not that the problems are always caused by the tap water, but it always puts that doubt in your mind).
Water conditioners don't really remove things like chlorine, chloramine, etc., but convert them to non (or less) toxic forms - forms that things like algae can often use as nutrients.
There are a lot of places to buy one online. I bought mine on e-Bay (just do a search for "Aqua-Safe"). Other posters on here have been very happy with units bought from places like www.purelyh2O.com, www.thefilterguys.biz, and others.
They all work basically the same. You hook up the inlet to a faucet (usually an adapter is supplied). The water goes through 2 or 3 pretreatment cartridges to remove things like particles and chlorine. The water pressure then forces the pretreated water through a series of membranes. Only a portion of this water makes it through. The water that makes it through the membrane has most of the contaminants remove - they stay on the other side of the membrane, and are swept away by the remainder of the water that doesn't make it through. The RO treated water can then be fed into a deionizing cartridge that removes the last traces of minerals.
You would need a faucet of some type to hook the inlet water supply up to, and a drain for the waste water to go. The setups are usually pretty simple, and some people hook them up when needed, then store them in a closet when they're not being used.
bigbcop911
03-23-2008, 12:26 PM
Ok... Thanks SO much for the advice. Now, so I don't feel "stupid" for not asking... Since I've heard so much about the only stupid questions are those you don't ask... I'm going to ask this... Once the water has gone through the process, and the good water goes into the tank... at what point do you add the salt?? I'm aware that it's a lethal idea to just dump salt in your tank with the fish so how do I get it in there... lol... and I assure everyone I am taking notes so in 20yrs when I have this figured out I promise to pass this on to the newbies of 2027...
dolfans1
03-23-2008, 5:55 PM
If you are filling your tank for the first time (no fish, live rock, etc. are in there), you can mix the salt right in the tank. Just add the salt, fill with water, and let circulate at least a day before adding anything. You can then make adjustments to the specific gravity if needed. Once you have live things in there, you need a container to mix it. 5 gallon buckets usually work really well for me. Since I always buy my salt in the 5 gallon buckets, I have about 8 of them to use.
Don't forget though - once your tank is set up and running, you will be topping off with fresh water to replace evaporation. If you top off with salt water, your specific gravity will keep increasing. You will need salt water for water changes though.
bigbcop911
03-23-2008, 6:19 PM
Thanks dolfans1! You know, I thought about the bucket idea but thought to myself.. "it couldn't be that easy" but turns out it is... So thank you again!
Boltster
03-23-2008, 7:57 PM
I mix mine in a 10 gal aquarium that has an air pump and a heater. It's ready for a water change. I heat some other RO/DI water in a 5 gal bucket for top offs.
A decent RO/DI system can be bought on the internet for ~$100
There are a lot of places to buy one online. I bought mine on e-Bay (just do a search for "Aqua-Safe"). Other posters on here have been very happy with units bought from places like www.purelyh2O.com (http://www.purelyh2O.com), www.thefilterguys.biz (http://www.thefilterguys.biz), and others.
i have to disagree with you about you saying you can buy a decent one for $100, when it comes to RO/DI units you get what you pay for. the ones on EBAY are junk. We carry Purely H2o units and we also make our own and they don't even come close to comparing to the ebay ones. The ebay ones the housings crack easy when you tighten them and the filters are terrible! Buy a quality unit and you can also usit for your housing drinking water system. .ie. hook it up to you fridge or add a drinking add-on and have a tap in the kitchen. that why you get 2 uses out of it. Quality units have the right filters and also John Guest fittings. Just make sure you research what your buying before you do and make sure you save to buy a quality unit so that it lasts
bigbcop911
03-30-2008, 1:20 PM
Ok another question.... How slow of a process is this? After doing some reading it seems they run very slow between 20 and 30 gallons a day. So a waterchange could take all day to do?
Ok another question.... How slow of a process is this? After doing some reading it seems they run very slow between 20 and 30 gallons a day. So a waterchange could take all day to do?
Well it all depends on what RO membrane u have, the standard i would have to say is 75 GPD so to fill lets say a 5 gallon drinking jug your looking at + or - 60min to fill. Thats very slow to have a 20-30 GPD membrane and thats how they are selling them sooo cheap also because the membranes are the most expensive part of the unit.
bigbcop911
03-30-2008, 1:53 PM
Ok that makes sense. Now there's a difference in just an RO and an RO/DI I'm sure the DI is better but how much better? Also, 2 canister or 3? My cycle is about over and I plan to do a big water change so I want to get all my ducks in a row within' the next day or two.
Ok that makes sense. Now there's a difference in just an RO and an RO/DI I'm sure the DI is better but how much better? Also, 2 canister or 3? My cycle is about over and I plan to do a big water change so I want to get all my ducks in a row within' the next day or two.
DI gets your TDS's down to 0 and without it then your TDS after coming out of a properly built unit should be between 10-2 give or take. Having the Di filters in your unit will result in the purest water quality for your tanks.
HTH
Tyler
dolfans1
03-31-2008, 8:50 PM
i have to disagree with you about you saying you can buy a decent one for $100, when it comes to RO/DI units you get what you pay for. the ones on EBAY are junk. We carry Purely H2o units and we also make our own and they don't even come close to comparing to the ebay ones. The ebay ones the housings crack easy when you tighten them and the filters are terrible! Buy a quality unit and you can also usit for your housing drinking water system. .ie. hook it up to you fridge or add a drinking add-on and have a tap in the kitchen. that why you get 2 uses out of it. Quality units have the right filters and also John Guest fittings. Just make sure you research what your buying before you do and make sure you save to buy a quality unit so that it lasts
I'll have to disagree here. I had bought mine for ~$100, and it takes my TDS from 275 down to 0. I flush the membrane once a week, and I just replaced it for the first time in January after a year and a half of doing 15 gallon water changes weekly.
I'll have to disagree here. I had bought mine for ~$100, and it takes my TDS from 275 down to 0. I flush the membrane once a week, and I just replaced it for the first time in January after a year and a half of doing 15 gallon water changes weekly.
your a luck one! trust me their junk. Purely H2o makes a great one and is designed the way it should be. Ours are identicle to theres but better housings and fittings!