Dragon Eel

[xenon-3]

There's a pet store near where I live and they just got some Dragon Eels. I really wanted to get one but I heard that some Eels like the Blue Ribbon don't do well at all in captivity. Is this also true for the Dragon Eel?

I wouldn't really consider myself an expert on aquariums, but I have kept some Clownfish before in my 100 gallon fish tank in the past. I still have the fish tank (minus the fishes).

[BadRoma1]

dragon eels should be kept alone for the most part. but if you like to have one, go for it. however, fish tank - fish = dead dragon eel. cycle before you get it, because you don't want $1000.00+ fish turn belly up. considering that you only had clown fish before, I don't think you are experienced enough to have a dragon eel, to be honest with you.

[emptywallet]

dragon eels are so sweet looking yet to scary to keep in my house thinking where it could travel

[xenon-3]

Why do you think I might not have the required experience for keeping a Dragon Eel? Do they too need constant caring like Sharks and Rays? And what are the reasons for Eel deaths in captivity anyway?

[zhonk]

Eels are infamous for jumping. My LFS has had a Dragon eel for about 6 months. THe tank was covered by egg crate and weighed down with 10 lbs of rocks.

[xenon-3]

Why only six months?

The more questions I ask the more unsure I am of myself. I really wanted to get a Dragon Eel, but there's no point in getting one if it isn't going to live for at least 10 years.

[BadRoma1]

Okay. The reason I say that you are not experienced enough is because keeping clown fish is not the same as keeping dragon eel. However, I don't think that dragon eel would be difficult to keep. Keep tide lead on the tank and don't hand feed, but use tonsils. It just you can't run out and get him but you need to cycle first. I wasn't trying to be negative, I just had eels before and they all eventualy ascaped. and considering the price...

[xenon-3]

The price is a little over $1000. That's why I wanted to make sure that it'll survive in captivity. I don't get how an Eel would escape from an aquarium, though. My tank has sort of a hinged lid with two latches to help secure it. Do you think that'd be enough?

[AquatiCreations]

check ANY hole where the filter intake(S) and output(S) enter the tank. Bad wants to make sure your tank has gone through the nitrogen cycle. Test water params, and see what they look like.Eels can escape even the narrowest of crevices.and you cannot forget to close the latches,or something silly like that.Bad means that fish dont hop out AS often as eels,and therefore require more care to keep.Dont forget feeding an eel is totally different than feeding some flakes or pellets to your clownfish.

[xenon-3]

Yes, I also heard somewhere that a Zebra Eel got its head caught in one of those holes and got itself killed. If securing the tank and feeding it live fish with one of those elongated forceps type things is all I need to worry about, then I think I've got it covered. I won't be with it 24/7, but there'll be someone home most of the time to keep an eye on the bugger just to make sure it isn't trying to get itself killed somehow.

[BadRoma1]

Dragon eel is not like blue ribbon eel, however it all depends on each individual and there is no telling how well it will do in your tank. Also, considering that your store just got them, I would just wait and see how well they do at the store and if they start eating and growing there or actualy not eating and/or loosing weight. I would recomend to buy such highly priced fish from reliable sourse, like from someone who had that kind of eel for some time and who can show that eel eats and looks nice and fat. By then your tank should be cycled and ready for your dragon eel

[OldManOfTheSea]

xenon-3, Welcome to AC. Being that your tank not even ready as it might seem its not from your starting post, you would first be best that you discribe your tank setup. As the one thing all can say, is that eels are known for their abilities to be found carpet surfing. For the thing there is, peoples eel aren't really trying to escape at all, what it is that they do is that when all lights are out, most eels are often on the hunt for food and eels for one will follow up a long the side of the tank to the top and that is were a glass cover or so comes in to keep any hobbyist pet in their tanks.

Now with one saying to you, "but if you like to have one, go for it." That can be an expensive go for it. For one thing, you need this tank well setup with a good amount of LR. My experience in maintaining eel tanks, fine it best not to have so deep a sand bed. As for going for it, I can only say, if you not had so much success up to now, I would suggest that you hold off on the idea until you gained more experience.

In a 100 gal tank, you will not have that many fish with this eel. For one thing, you not want to overcrowd for which can lead to problems. For one thing is that even if you fish that should be to large for the dragon eel to swallow. still if either hungry or its space is being to cramp, it could bite the fish causing serious injury.


Why do you think I might not have the required experience for keeping a Dragon Eel? Do they too need constant caring like Sharks and Rays? And what are the reasons for Eel deaths in captivity anyway?
For one thing, if you not maintained this tank for too long, you could or can develop water problem issues. For you need to understand as well that any large shift in your Ph of nitrate levels are too high, your dragon eel will have its diet affected.

The other thing as I was saying, you tank complete setup, you need not to have any openings for it to escape and die for it

Besides, all marine species that we maintain in our tanks require constant caring, as well as the best that we could offer them.


Eels are infamous for jumping. My LFS has had a Dragon eel for about 6 months. THe tank was covered by egg crate and weighed down with 10 lbs of rocks.
The problem there is, have you ever seen the body strength of an adult? A full grown male has the ability to shift the weight of of 40-50 lbs or more that is either from the side or over head. So a lousy 10# is nothing.


The more questions I ask the more unsure I am of myself. I really wanted to get a Dragon Eel, but there's no point in getting one if it isn't going to live for at least 10 years.
This species will or should live far longer then just ten years, but that will be up to you on maintaining its water quality to there best limits. Also a wide nutritional diet of fresh strips of fish, shrimp, squid, octopus and such to give it a wide range of sea foods. I had myself a pair and the female I had for over 14 years before I sold the pair to some private zoo.


BadRoma1, if his not the experience you suspect, he would or could then be paying for it with the eels life. What the thing be is, a person sees this eel and wants one, not thinking if they should really have it or not, so it might be best for him to wait while he needs to make his tank secure and such. Like does his tank have a sump? skimmer? And if this tank has a HOB equipment, it would take some doing to secure any openings. And for me, I could only see if this tank has some canister filter that the tanks nitrates could go through the roof.


The price is a little over $1000
I can get it for less>


If securing the tank and feeding it live fish with one of those elongated forceps type things is all I need to worry about, then I think I've got it covered. I won't be with it 24/7, but there'll be someone home most of the time to keep an eye on the bugger just to make sure it isn't trying to get itself killed somehow
For one thing, if you want a healthy eel for a long time, feeders is a bad thing to manage that!


Dragon eel is not like blue ribbon eel, however it all depends on each individual and there is no telling how well it will do in your tank
Each person maintain their tank different from the next and we all think that were the best setup and water quality to manage this. For one thing, an eel is one of the most hardy marine creatures that one could own. Still, there are downfalls due to a bad diet and specially, the tanks water quality. For do understand that any long term issues in this for ones eel, their eel problem in their health can slowly appear and when it does show itself, you may believe that your problem had just started, but the truth in the manner be is that your eel was paying for your lack of better performance from the start.

So your tank would need to be well setup and secure prior to getting any eel. Also, with a dragon moray, you will be required to use some type of feeding stick. And there be other things you would be needing to know about in feeding such eels. As it was said here, your clown fish a another story when it comes to feeding a fish eaten moray.

Buddy

[xenon-3]

It's just a 100 gallon tank that hasn't been used in a long time. I can pay the store owner to reserve the Eel while I cycle it and set it up. There aren't going to be any other fish in the tank, except for when it's feeding time. Also, I'm fully aware that the salinity, pH levels, and temperatures should be kept in constant check. I also know what might cause changes in these levels and how to manage it so that the shifts are minimal.

Oh, and what do you guys mean by "carpet surfing"?

[Reefscape]

Carpet Surfing = Escaping the tank and going for an excursion across your carpet floor ;)

[xenon-3]

I've decided to get a Zebra Eel instead. Yesterday I went to reserve a Dragon Eel when I saw the owner feeding one of his Zebra Eels. That thing was literally eating from his hand, and it also looked very, very healthy. Are Zebras that docile?

[Kaluden]

From the research I have done on eels, pretty much no matter what kind, if you are brave enough to feed it by hand, and it happens to bite you, go to the doctor, even if minor

[xenon-3]

What I meant was that the owner wasn't using a feeding stick. He was holding the food in this hand while the Eel came up and grabbed it. I hope he knows what he's doing.

[mandy21]

it is not wise to feed any eel with your hand, without use of a feeding stick. they can't differentiate fingers from food.

zebra eels are docile in terms of eels, however, I would never consider hand feeding one.

[cam191919]

seriously cover the top with as much as you can. he"ll be fish jerkey in the morning if you dont

[OldManOfTheSea]

I saw the owner feeding one of his Zebra Eels. That thing was literally eating from his hand, and it also looked very, very healthy. Are Zebras that docile?
Even a Zebra moray, as well as a SFE, as docile as they may appear to be, they still can show you some level of aggression. For one thing it is that a well feed eel is docile at the time and when hungry, they can cause you to be short of some crabs and fish. Even a tess moray, well feed and it would seem not to mind that you pet it. As well, a large fish could even lay right next to the eel as if their the best of buddies.

I never forget this that in one forum link which seems to be around no longer, one of their head people of that link had himself a yellowhead moray in a 90 gal tank with a lion and stonefish. I warned him not to, and he all the time was feeding only silversides and I tried to tell him a few times that he needs to get that eel on strips of fish and squid and such for the silversides as its main diet does nothing in keeping the eel well enough feed for long.

In short, some weeks later his eel already eaten his lionfish, and was now chasing the stonefish around the tank. Later, the gotten rid of the eel and tank.

Also, its not a wise man who feed his eel with his hand, it always be just a matter of time to when the eel will get the hand that feeds it. I always a saying for people who showboat an eel by hand feeding it. It only be a method of showing off for the most part. If those people who try to hand feed their eels, if your well aware of the possibilities of a hand injury could happen, they wouldn't try doing it.

Eels, specially eels like the dragon moray, can cause a hand injury to be extremely horrible for there be sure to be a bad infection for one. And then im concerns about possible toxins present.

Buddy

[BadRoma1]

You are doing the right thing by trying less expensive eel before you try highly priced one. I know you were trying to say that the eel looks good enough to buy, eats well too. the owner was trying to show off by feeding him by hand. the infection from a bite of any eel is the biggest problem. the real reason eels bite is not because they want to do it for the most part, but because they can't see all that good and can mistake your fingers for food. please remember to cycle your tank before you bring any eel home. also, remember what Theoldmanofthesea is telling you about what to feed eels as far as veriety goes. you can't feed any fish silversides only and you don't really want to feed your fish live feeders because they can have health problems or parasites and you don't want to infect your eel with some kind of desease. you need to cycle your tank for about one and a half month, however you can cut it down to 14 days if you use "biospira" during cycling. even though "biospira" claims on the box that you can cycly a tank in one day (or something like that) don't believe that, because I called Bio-spira company and they told me that that's not true but in reality it's 14 days.

[zhonk]

Why only six months?

The more questions I ask the more unsure I am of myself. I really wanted to get a Dragon Eel, but there's no point in getting one if it isn't going to live for at least 10 years.
Thats how long I've been going there.

[xenon-3]

Does the Zebra Eel have the same lifespan as the Dragon Eel? If so, then I might not even get a Dragon Eel later on, because all I'm looking for is an Eel that looks nice, isn't too hard to take care of, and has a long life span.

[OldManOfTheSea]

I only the time to cover a few areas in this question, but can tell you that eels for the most part, are the hardest marine specimens you can maintain. I mentioned some earlier to your question. Also, don't go collecting some eel just because of simply beauty or you know of others who owns such species, but do only get the eel you desire most once your a better knowledge in maintaining such animals for many year, "not just ten year" Dwarf eels have the shorter life spans to where a dragon lives 30 years or longer. I got to go now, but I think that this somehow should give you a better outlook on what your looking to do.

Buddy

[OldManOfTheSea]

but can tell you that eels for the most part, are the hardest marine specimens you can maintain

The correct word is "hardiest" :perv:

[xenon-3]

So do Zebra Eels also have lifespans of 30 years?

[7faces]

heres a good source of info on your eels..
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-12/fm/index.php

[xenon-3]

Thanks, but they don't have anything on the Zebra Eel's lifespan there.

[OldManOfTheSea]

Gymnomuraena zebra
Common name: zebra moray
Maximum length: 3 feet, minimum tank size: 40 gallons
Must have a strong reef rock structure for these eels (Michael, 1999).

That to me is ridiculous as well as its out dated data for any eel to be so cramp up in a 40 gal tank and at the size of 3 feet, it is crazy.

As well, you can manage to find any number of what if it be an article or other wise, the main thing you need to keep in mind is that it be only that persons opinion and nothing more. For you see, for a full grown zebra moray in a reef system, I would suggest nothing smaller then a 125. And of course, larger is better.



Echidna catenata
Common name: chainlink moray, chain moray
Maximum size: 30", minimum tank size: 40 gallons




It is critical that moray eels be fed a varied diet, one that replicates their natural prey items. In the case of the morays discussed here, crustaceans and hard-shelled invertebrates should be an integral part of the diet
I been telling a good many when feeding crabs or shrimps that they should allow to let the eel bite through and later remove the shells from their eel tank. That they need to allow their eel to feel as if more at home, rather then a simple captive.



Overfeeding in eels is a major health problem; overfed eels accumulate fat at an unhealthy rate, and it's not uncommon to observe a fat eel at a public aquarium where the handlers feed the eel as part of an hourly display. If your eel refuses food, consider giving the eel some time off from feeding to allow the animal to utilize some stored fats.

Eels in the wide not feeds daily or every other day, but rather at most time, they feed weeks or months apart. The problem comes when those who have eels such as the yellowhead or blackedge morays and they have other fish tank mates as well. There you have no choice whatsoever but too feed the eel as often it would accept. That be so to try and keep the eel from preying on any fish you wish not too miss. But also, long term in this method, it will fail and you will become minus a fish here and there.

For often, not the very same eel, but rather any eel in captivity could accept its offering and drop that meal behind the rocks were you cannot see it. Eels, each has their own personality and through their body motions and behavior, you will become aware to what if it will drop its food and that you would need watch it, and if it is dropped, get it out.



The two keys to success with morays eels are 1) excellent water quality and 2) a varied and nutritious diet.
I been telling others for more then 40-45 years, those near to same words.


Don't fret over morays which have fasted for short periods; my eels have refused food for over 2 months with no loss of body condition or apparent health issues.
I had so many times, an eel that not feed from 5 to 5.5 months and there too had no change in either body condition or apparent health issues.

Also, on the thought of housing a zebra in even a 40 gal tank all by itself, it still isn't ideal to me for also keep in mind that most people who keep eels, has as well, a temptation to add fish into their tanks. It be easy that is to say I will house only the dragon eel in a 100 gal tank, but just how far you can stick with just an eel in that tank, before your a change of mind?



So do Zebra Eels also have lifespans of 30 years?
We all not do the very same thing for our eels or fish, some or a good number do all the best for their captives. For so many decides at times not to do a water change when they should, or buy the very best from a fresh sea food market. Like there was one who was for having his ribbon eel for a few months only at that time, was only feeding the eel feeders. Now something like that shouldn't ever be considered a successful method, as well, that is extremely a short time to have such an eel and say im successful in keeping such a species.

As the dragon moray, I had the male I sold from the time it was of the size of 13". The eel already by this point had aged some 7-10 years and Like the female which I had for more then 14 years, she was thought to be at the time of the sales to been definitely more then 20 years of age.

Some of the fastest growing species of these eels, happens to be freshwater species. For one thing, the dragon eels I sold last year, still was growing the year before.

Like the zebra moray, once it is of size to where it would feed on much foods, it should when the time comes, grow an average of not less then 6" a year for a while, and then that would later slow down somewhat to a few inches, for their skeleton structure, requires a great deal of more time to grow and strengthen.

But as too determine the species exact age, there be only one method in how to do this, and your eel must first be dead in order for it too be done.

The current techniques used to age eels as well as most marine animals is to cut a cross section of one of their teeth or a vertebrae, they have growth rings similar to trees that can help you decipher their age a bit more accurate than an educated guess. In bony fish many people extract the otolith, or ear bone, which also exhibit growth rings.

Buddy