View Full Version : FW Inverts Profiles
Lupin
10-03-2008, 10:25 PM
For FW inverts...
[ picture ]
Scientific Name:
Common Names:
Care Level:
Adult Size:
pH Range:
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat:
Temperament/Behavior:
Compatible Tank mates:
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult:
Narrative:
References/Links:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=71575&d=1228380313
Photo by Lupin.
Scientific Name: Pomacea canaliculata
Common Names: Golden Apple Snail, Channel Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 3 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: 18-28 degrees Celsius (64-82 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin: South America
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tankmates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
These snails are voracious consumers devouring almost all types of plants including duckweeds (Lemna minor) hence they are not suitable for planted community setups. Juveniles in particular tend to be more avid plant consumers. Any food will be consumed quite enthusiastically as these are not the least bit fussy about their foods at all.
Meaty foods have been known to increase their cannibalistic tendencies especially when fed with a weakened or dead snail. They have also been recorded thus far to even eat live fish when a prey least expects it although this is a very rare and unusual case but be particularly selective when choosing their fish tankmates. Bottom dwellers with fleshy bodies such as serpentine loaches are best avoided to prevent any possible predation from happening.
Tank Size For Adult: A 5g per adult.
Narrative:
Pomacea canaliculata are snails that are part of the Pomacea genus (formerly Ampullaridae). These are often referred to as golden apple snails or simply canas. These snails originated from South America ranging from Southeast Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia. These are now also widespread across Asia due to their ability to survive various environmental conditions. They have established populations in Hawaii and Florida.
The shell of this species has 5-6 whorls seperated by a deep suture which is less than 90° in angle. The shell color can vary from yellow and green to brown with our without dark spiral bands. They have a thick operculum which can be retracted into the shell opening. The snail body can vary from yellow to brown to nearly black with yellow spots on the siphon.
These snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to breed. They are not sexually matured until they reach 2.5 cm in size. It is not easy to distinguish their sexes however if you can remove the snail out of the water and observe closely the right side of its body, you may find the penis sheath in there. This will tell you the snail is a male. Another way is when they copulate. Males are often found clinging at the right side of their fellow snails. You will know by then the one clinging is a male. Males will attempt to copulate with anyone so the snail they may be clinging could be a male or a female.
They lay clutches of hot pink eggs above the waterline containing 200-600 eggs. The eggs must be kept in warm humid conditions. Removing them from their location involves using a razor blade without crushing them. Wait for 24 hours for the eggs to harden before removing them. Place the clutch in damp paper towel or filter floss afterwards. The eggs will become lighter as time progresses. You can tell when the eggs are about to hatch when they break easily as you touch or attempt to move them. The hatchlings may need a little assistance in this case. You can gently swish the eggs in the water so they fall off to the bottom although most hatchlings are able to find their way to the water. The hatchlings will remain hidden from view most of the time so be patient. They will eventually show up. They can be identified by the pink dot coloring their sutures which eventually disappears as they grow. They will grow rapidly at this point.
Feeding them is not a problem as they are not at all fussy with foods. They eat all types of plant matter and are banned from interstate shipping and distribution. This species is more resistant to lower temperatures than most apple snails. They are most active during the night. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
References:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 9:55 AM
Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda var. yellow
Common Names: Yellow shrimp
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1-1.2 inch
pH Range: 6.5-8.0, ideal range 7.2-7.6
Temperature Range: (F/C) 59-82 F
Origin:wild form from southern China
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: should not be housed with other neocaridina as they will cross-breed
Diet: Omnivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18months-2 years
Narrative: These shrimp are easy to breed as the young are miniature versions of the adults and there are no larvael stages. They are omnivorous and will eat a wide range of algaes and prepared fish foods. Protect young shrimp from the filter intake with a sponge or media bag or use sponge filtration. Females develop bright yellow saddle or visible eggs which then become fertilized. The eggs are carried under the swimmerettes for approximately 20 days. Each female can produce from 15-40 young from each gestational period. Female shrimp are slightly larger than males and more vibrant in color. Dwarf shrimp do best in species specific tanks as the young are susceptible to predation through almost any fish. In densely planted tanks it may work to keep them with small peaceful species of community fish.
References/Links:
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 10:06 AM
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Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda var. red
Common Names: Cherry Shrimp
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 3/4 inch to 1 inch
pH Range: 6.5-8.0, 7.2-7.6 being ideal
Temperature Range: (F/C) 70-80 F
Origin: Southern China, Taiwan
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: Should not be housed with other neocaridina to prevent cross breeding.
Diet: Ominivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18months-2 years
Narrative:
An excellent starter shrimp, the Red Cherry shrimp is a ready breeder. Females are slightly larger and more opaque than males. They develop a visible saddle at sexual maturity. Once their eggs are fertilized, it takes about 21 days for 20-40 young to hatch into miniature versions of the adults. Sponge filtration or a covered intake is recommended to protect the young. Cherry shrimp will eat algae as well as any prepared fish foods. Shrimp only tanks are preferred as they are the natural prey of most fish.
References/Links:
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 10:15 AM
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Scientific Name: Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis var. blue
Common Names: Blue pearl shrimp
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1- 1.25 inch
pH Range: 6.5-80, 7.2-7.6 being ideal
Temperature Range: (F/C) 70-80 F
Origin: Inline bred in Germany
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: Should not be housed with other neocaridina to prevent cross-breeding
Diet: Omnivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18 months-2 years
Narrative: Females are slightly larger and more brilliant in coloration than males. They develop a visible brown saddle at sexual maturity. They carry fertilized eggs under their swimmerettes for approximately 2 weeks before 15-40 young hatch as miniature versions of the adults. It is recommended to use sponge filtration or a covered intake to protect the young. Shrimp do best in a species tank as they are the natural prey of most shrimp. The shrimp will eat a wide range of algaes as well as most prepared fish foods.
References/Links:
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 10:22 AM
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Scientific Name: Neocaridina zhangjiajiensis var. white
Common Names: Snowball shrimp
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: .75inch to 1.25 inch
pH Range: 6.5-8.0, with 7.2-7.6 being ideal
Temperature Range: (F/C) 70-80F
Origin: Inline bred in Germany
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: Should not be housed with other neocaridina to prevent cross-breeding
Diet: Omnivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18 months to 2 years
Narrative:
Females are slightly larger and more vibrant than males and develop a visible white "saddle" when sexually mature. The eggs are brilliant white and carried in the swimmerettes for approximately 2 weeks before hatching into miniature versions of the adults. Sponge filtration or a covered intake is recommended to protect juvenile shrimp. They are best kept in an invert specific tank as they are the natural prey of most shrimp. They will readily eat most algaes and prepared fish foods.
References/Links:
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 10:58 AM
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Scientific Name: Caridina sp. var green
Common Names: Green shrimp, Dark Green shrimp
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1- 1.25 inch
pH Range: 7.0-8.2
Temperature Range: (F/C) 72-82F
Origin: India
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: Should not be housed with other caridina species to prevent cross-breeding
Diet: Omnivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18 months-2 years
Narrative: Females are larger and more vividly colored than males. The green can vary in intensity. It is a prolific shrimp producing 20-40 young from each gestational period. The young can vary in color from reddish to brown to green but all achieve a green coloration at sexual maturity. In my experience, they are slower growing than most neocaridina shrimp. They require either sponge filtration or a covered intake to protect the young which are born as miniature versions of the adults. A vibrant and active shrimp which is a good addition to a planted tank. As with other dwarf shrimp, an invert specific tank is best as they are the natural prey of most fish. They will readily eat most algae and prepared fish foods.
References/Links:
msjinkzd
10-04-2008, 11:06 AM
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Scientific Name: Caridina cf. cantonensis "tiger"
Common Names: Tiger shrimp
Care Level: Easy to moderate
Adult Size: 1.25-1.75 inch
pH Range: 6.0-7.2
Temperature Range: (F/C) 68-75 F
Origin: SouthEast Asia
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates: These should not be housed with other caridina to prevent cross-breeding
Diet: Omnivorous
Tank Size For Adult: 10 adults per gallon
Lifespan: 18 months- 2 years
Narrative:
These are a hardy and prolific shrimp when kept in ideal tank conditions. They require cooler waters with soft and acidic water in order to reproduce readily and have the young survive. An ideal pH is around 6.6. A higher pH will result in a shortened lifespan with less young surviving. The striping can vary in color from reddish to blue to black. Young are born as miniature versions of the adults so its important to use either sponge filtration or have the intake covered adequately. They will eat a wide range of algaes as well as prepared fish foods. Females are slightly larger than males.
References/Links:
Lupin
11-30-2008, 11:27 PM
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=339
Photo by msjinkzd.
Scientific Name: Pomacea diffusa (formerly Pomacea bridgesii)
Common Names: Golden Mystery Snail, Brig, Golden Apple Snail, Mystery Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: 18-27 degrees Celsius (64-81 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin: South America
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tankmates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
These snails prefer dead and decaying plant parts rather than the healthy plant specimens which make them perfectly suited for planted tank setups. They will appreciate fish foods and vegetable matter in their diet. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones, plaster of Paris pucks and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
Tank Size For Adult: A 2.5g per adult.
Narrative:
Pomacea diffusa are snails that are part of the Pomacea genus (formerly Ampullaridae). These are often referred to as golden apple snails, golden mystery snails, mystery snails or simply brigs. These snails originated from South America ranging from Southeast Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia.
The shell of this species has about 5 to 6 whorls. The most obvious characteristics of the shell are the square shoulders (flat at the top of the whorls) and almost 90° sutures. The shell opening (aperture) is large and oval, the umbilicus is large and deep. They have a thick operculum which can be retracted into the shell opening. There are quite a lot of shell color variations ranging from burgundy, ivory, gold, blue and many more.
These snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to breed. They are not sexually matured until they reach 2.5 cm in size. It is not easy to distinguish their sexes however if you can remove the snail out of the water and observe closely the right side of its body, you may find the penis sheath in there. This will tell you the snail is a male. Another way is when they copulate. Males are often found clinging at the right side of their fellow snails. You will know by then the one clinging is a male. Males will attempt to copulate with anyone regardless of their sexes so the snail they may be clinging could be a male or a female.
They lay clutches of peachy to white eggs above the waterline containing 50-300 eggs. The eggs must be kept in warm humid conditions. Removing them from their location involves using a razor blade without crushing them. Wait for 24 hours for the eggs to harden before removing them. Place the clutch in a damp paper towel or filter floss afterwards. The eggs will become lighter as time progresses. You can tell when the eggs are about to hatch when they break easily as you touch or attempt to move them. The hatchlings may need a little assistance in this case. You can gently swish the eggs in the water so they fall off to the bottom although most hatchlings are able to eat their way out and go to the water. The hatchlings will remain hidden from view most of the time so be patient. They will eventually show up. They are colorless but the colors should eventually darken after a week. They will grow rapidly at this point. It has been suggested however the hatchlings be confined in breeder nets or hatchery for awhile until they reach pea size. This way, they will not have to compete with the larger snails for foods. Most hatchlings die from starvation as they look around for food.
These snails prefer dead and decaying plant parts rather than the healthy plant specimens which make them perfectly suited for planted tank setups. They will appreciate fish foods and vegetable matter in their diet. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones, plaster of Paris pucks and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
References: www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net/)
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/sept04087.jpg
Photo by Sounguru.
Scientific Name: Clea helena; Anentome helena
Common Names: Assassin Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1"
pH Range: 6.0-8.2
Temperature Range: (F/C) 74-82 degrees Fahrenheit (22-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin: Sulawesi, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia; some species are widespread in Africa
Temperament: Peaceful
Compatible Tankmates:
Shrimp and most fish will absolutely be fine with Clea helena however it is not advisable to mix them with any other snail species intended as pets rather than foods. Despite the fact, they may not attempt to eat the larger snails such as apple snails, the risk of predation is still there. Assassin snails work together to bring down larger prey such as mystery snails (Pomacea diffusa).
There have been few reports of assassin snails taking down shrimp but most of these are plainly hearsay for lack of evidence however one Aquariacentral.com member, rich_one has observed his green shrimp latching on the assassin snail and the assassin snail, without warning, latched on the shrimp and stabbed it to death. He observed it eating the shrimp alive. Though no picture has been presented in his excitement to discover the new behavior, the details he had provided, have their merits. Despite this incident, it is still very rare for assassin snails to turn their predatory instincts towards shrimp.
Diet: Carnivorous. These snails are predatory in nature preferring to eat other snails particularly those smaller than them. Meaty foods such as bloodworms are good alternatives in the absence of snail supply.
Tank Size For Adult: 5 adults per 2.5g
Lifespan: There have been claims they can live for 1.5-5 years.
Narrative:
Assassins will eat an average of one snail per day, half to half again their size. They do have a preference for snails like pouch snails (Physas sp.) where the body is easier to get into and there is no door for the victim to pull back and hide behind. They have been seen tracking like a cruise missile all the way across the tank to get the pouch snails and pass up the slower MTS (Malaysian trumpet snail-Melania sp.) to chase down the pouch snail and devour it.
Based on the observation of William Burt (Sounguru), assassins will neither attack nor eat their own kind even if they die. They will eat other snails however that are dead and this was confirmed when an assassin took down a larger MTS and could not finish the meal about 4 hours later. Another assassin snail came across the remains and finished it off. Assassin snails are also known to work in groups in order to bring down their larger prey.
Assassins feed by first grasping the prey and then inserting a feeding tube into the snail's shell and basically liquifying the snail and sucking out the remains. They will also actively hunt, laying in ambush of another snail. It was observed that they proceed to bury themselves to a point where all that stuck out of the sand is their little trunk appendage. They would then wait until a snail of suitable size comes close, then motor out of the sand and grab the snail. This type of behavior led to possible conclusions, the first being that the trunk is used for smelling and hunting down prey, and another that they do come from both rocky, muddy or sandy substrate areas. It has been observed that once the assassin snails are introduced into a tank, the MTS and pouch snails begin to climb the glass walls in their efforts to evade the predation of the assassin snails.
Assassin snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to reproduce. There is a theory however that indicates females are usually larger than males and males are found to latch on the females. There have been rumors that assassin snails are livebearers however this myth has been squashed with photos showing eggs laid among plant stalks and other decorations which later on hatch into baby assassin snails. Assassin snails are known to lay an average of 2 or more eggs in a day. This appears to vary especially with the environmental conditions. They have been found to prefer large stiff plants, plant roots and pebble/sand substrate as their egg laying bases. It has been theorized that those mediums can bear their weight more than anything else.
There have been several claims that assassin snails will continue laying eggs as long as there is an abundance of meaty foods. This has not been confirmed yet and at some point, an experiment for this will be conducted. Basically, in conclusion of this point, whether, they will continue to lay as long as there is a steady meaty food source, this has not been totally confirmed but the theory has its merits. In the absence of meaty foods, it has been reported that they will survive on regular fish food.
Now as far as hatching and growth go, it seems both of these are a rather long process. With only one egg per case, they will not become as invasive in your tanks as some other species, but they could become the only species in a hurry. It takes three to four weeks for the eggs to hatch. It will take a long while before you eventually see the young assassin snails. Their growth is very slow compared to others. There have been claims that it takes them to four to eight to reach full grown size. Baby assassin snails will rarely appear from hiding and will not show up until they are about half an inch in size.
Here are some pictures of the snails emerging from the egg sacs.
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/hatch.jpg
One baby coming out.
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/hatch1.jpg
Baby assassin snail on its way to hunt down prey.
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/hatch2.jpg
Below, you will see pictures of an assassin snail about a week old. You can already see the bands and the elephant-like nose. When they are first born, it is difficult to tell hem apart from MTS or pouch snail without magnification. The best way to do this is watch the snail if it moves along smoothly it is either a pouch snail or an assassin snail. If it moves along by pulling itself, it is a MTS. Now to identify it from the pouch snail, you need to get it side on and you will see that its shell is held higher than that of a PS.
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/babes1.jpg
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/babes2.jpg
http://www.stopactionphoto.net/Fishpics/babes3.jpg
WARNING ABOUT BABY ASSASSINS
The babies apparently move to new territories in the wild kind of like baby spiders. They have been seen climbing to a high point hang from some kind of string or slime trail and get caught up in the current to float around the tank for several minutes before coming to rest. It has been theorized that to disperse in the wild, they must do the same thing to float down stream. So using a sponge over your filter intake or a sponge filter is a must if you want your babes to survive.
References/Links:
Permission to obtain the complete details and images has been granted by the original author, William S. Burt (Sounguru).
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=4718
Photo by pik01.
Scientific Name: Clithon corona
Common Names: Horned Nerite Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 0.6 inch
pH Range: 7.6-8.0
Temperature Range: 64-81 degrees Fahrenheit (18-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin: Philippines
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Horned nerite snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet: Like other nerites, horned nerites prefer algae and biofilm as their primary foods. Supplementing them with anything else is next to impossible as they will not take anything easily although there have been occasional reports of them found to be eaten carrot slices, cucumber slices, peas and snail jello with pea flavor.
Tank Size For Adult: 1 per 2.5g. Note however that this is more of a guideline than actual stocking. Nerites excrete a lot of wastes for their size and it is advisable that the filtration be maximized when considering these snails.
Lifespan: 5-10 years
Narrative:
Horned nerite snails (Clithon corona) have been reported to be found in Palawan, Dumaguete City, Dipolog City and Cebu City of the Philippines. Colors vary depending on the sources where they were obtained from.
Horned nerite snail is named after its spines found at the rear part of its shell. The spikes are meant as a defense mechanism from predators and can inflict cuts if not handled carefully. Nerites are extremely docile animals that will not bother anything at all.
Horned nerites grow no more than an inch size in shell diameter. Their shells are very thick and these are great calcium absorbers requiring lots of calcium to maintain sturdy shells. They will eat nothing but algae and biofilm. Many people have reported unsuccessful attempts to get them to eat other foods such as the popular homemade snail jello with the possible exception of those with peas mixed which have been reported to attract the snail into eating them. It is therefore very important that these snails be introduced in a well established tank where it will meet its adequate food supply.
Horned nerite snails are efficient algae eaters and are often suggested as "clean up crews" for several different biotopes. Due to their spikes, they can easily deter most predators however it is not advisable to mix them with fish that will potentially harass or harm them to death. Care must be taken when trying to keep these snails. They will not do well in soft acidic water or water inadequate or lacking in calcium as this will cause shell erosion which will eventually leave the snail prone to damages and other health issues.
Breeding is next to impossible. Though the snails will lay trails of white eggs around the tank, none of the eggs will remain viable enough to hatch into velligers (larva) as the eggs require brackish conditions in order to hatch. The larva themselves need microalgae and phytoplanktons in order to survive to snail stage.
References/Links:
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1092&pictureid=10601 (http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1092&pictureid=10601)
Scientific Name: Cherax destructor
Common Names: Blue Claw Crayfish / Yabby
Care Level: Low
Adult Size: 20 cm (8 inches) with approximate weight of 300 grams (0.66 pounds) Maximum
pH Range: 7.5 - 8.0 (Hard Water)
Temperature Range: (F/C): 68-82 degrees Fahrenheit (20-28 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Australia
Temperament/Behavior: aggressive
Compatible Tank mates:
Best confined in species only tank.
Diet: High protein pellets, vegetables, plant material, live feed (Small fish, worms etc.)
Tank Size For Adult: Recommend 24 x 12 inch or larger
Lifespan: Up to 8 years
Narrative: This is probably Australia's hardiest crayfish as it can tolerate a wide range of water conditions and temperatures. It is an excellent crayfish to start with and comes in a variety of colors from green/brown to bright blue.They are aggressive and will attack most other tank mates.
References/Links:
Credit to Yabbadoo of MFK
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=916&pictureid=8552 (http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=916&pictureid=8552)
Scientific Name: Cherax cainii and Cherax tenuimanus
Common Names: Smooth Marron, Hairry Marron, Electric Blue Marron
Care Level: High
Adult Size: 40cm (16 inches) with an approximate weight of 2.7 kg or 5.9 pounds Maximum
pH Range: 7.5 - 8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C): 64-75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Australia
Temperament/Behavior: Aggressive & Territorial
Compatible Tank mates:
Best confined in species only tank.
Diet: High protein pellets, vegetables, plant material, live feed (Small fish, worms etc.)
Tank Size For Adult: Recommend 36 x 14 inch or larger
Lifespan: Up to 15 years
Narrative:
It is a beautiful and a very large species. It needs clean and cool water quality with high oxygen levels and is not suitable for beginners. Colors range from brown/black to bright blue and purple. They are aggressive and will attack most tank mates thus these are best kept in a species tank.
References/Links:
Credit to Yabbadoo of MFK
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=976&pictureid=9513 (http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=976&pictureid=9513)
Scientific Name: Cherax quadricarinatus
Common Names: Redclaw Crayfish, Blue Lobster
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size:
30-35cm (12-14 inches) with an approximate weight of 600 grams or 1.3 pounds Maximum
pH Range:
7.5 - 8.0 (Hard Water)
Temperature Range: (F/C):
75-84 degrees Fahrenheit (24-29 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat:
Australia
Temperament/Behavior:
Non aggressive
Compatible Tank mates:
Some fast swimming fish are suitable.
Diet:
High protein pellets, vegetables, plant material, live feed (Small fish, worms etc.)
Tank Size For Adult:
Recommend 36 x 12 inch or larger
Lifespan:
Up to 8 years
Narrative:
It is a very hardy crayfish that thrives in higher temperatures. It is a good choice to start with. Colors range from blue/green, brown/red to bright blue. They are somewhat non aggressive and do well when kept in numbers.
References/Links:
Credit to Yabbadoo of MFK
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=5503
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Tylomelania sp.
Common Names: Sulawesi Snail; Rabbit Snail
Care Level:
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
pH Range: 7.5-8.6 with a KH of 2-6
Temperature Range: (F/C) 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit (27-32 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Sulawesi, Indonesia
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet: According to one of the sites (check the references below), the stomachs of the Sulawesi snails have been found to have diatoms and sand. They have been recorded to actively hunt for mosquito larva and carrions as well as consume vegetable matter and powdered foods. There have been reports of them eating particular plants especially those with soft foliage.
Tank Size For Adult: 20g for 3.
Narrative:
Sulawesi snails vary in shape and structure. All Tylomelania sp. are found in Lake Malili and Lake Poso. According to Alexandra Behrendt who conducted a test on the water parameters of two lakes, Lake Matano (specific of Lake Malili) has very soft water with maximum pH value of 8.5. This in itself is a very unusual balance and is considerably very risky in aquarium upkeep as the pH tends to fluctuate in cases where hardness is unusually very low.
References/Links:
www.arizonainverts.com (http://www.arizonainverts.com)
http://www.allesumdieschneck.de/html/tylomelania_english.html
Scientific Name: Marisa cornuarietis
Common Names: Columbian Ramshorn Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 14-28 degrees Celsius (57-82 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin/Habitat: South America, established populations have been found in Florida, Texas and Puerto Rico.
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
The Marisa cornuarietis will eat just about anything from dead and decaying plant material to dead animals and eggs of other animals. These are not suited for planted tanks as these will also consume healthy plants.
Tank Size For Adult: 4 for 10g
Narrative:
Marisa cornuarietis are snails that are part of the Marisa genus. These are often referred to as Columbian ramshorns growing to a shell diameter of 2-3 inches. These snails originated from South America ranging from Southeast Brazil, Venezuela, Panama, Costa Rica and Honduras.
The shell of this species has about 3.5 to 4 whorls. These snails are mainly dark yellow to brown color with dark brown to solid black bands. There are three to six dark bands that are found mainly on the umbilicus. A completely yello variant also exists although the bands are rather lacking in this case.
These snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to breed. It is not easy to distinguish their sexes. One way is when they copulate. Males are often found clinging at the right side of their fellow snails. You will know by then the one clinging is a male. Males will attempt to copulate with anyone regardless of their sexes so the snail they may be clinging could be a male or a female. These snails can also interbreed with the Asolene spixi resulting hybrid generations where the main difference between the pure A. spixi and hybrid A. spixi is the shape of the spire. The spire of the pure strains remains raised while the the spire of the hybrids appear to flatten or sink. To date, this snail remains restricted from interstate shipping in USA and is banned from entry in most countries due to its potential to invade local ecosystems and surviving harsh weather conditions.
The eggs are laid underwater. Like all other species, the warmer the temperature, the faster tha hatching rate. These snails have been recorded to be one of the most prolific laying eggs in large sacs with the babies developing noticeably. The babies eventually hatch with globose shaped shells and will not develop into a spiral shape until on a later date.
Photo courtesy of PaulaO of Applesnail.net.
http://sumo.holyroller.org/pics/snails/marisa/hatchlings/baby01.jpg
These snails are confused with the common ramshorns (Planorbis sp.). With the exception of a mutation lacking bands, M. cornuarietis can be distinguished from the planorbids by the presence of operculum (trapdoor), labial tentacles and bands which the planorbids do not have. They are also bigger than the latter in shell diameter.
These snails are not totally fussy eating just about anything from dead animals to healthy plants. They will appreciate fish foods and vegetable matter in their diet. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones, plaster of Paris pucks and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions especially when the water is rather soft and acidic. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
References/Links:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
Scientific Name: Asolene spixi
Common Names: Zebra Apple Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat: Brazil
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult: 4 for a 10g
Narrative:
References/Links:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=1579
Photo by flaringshutter.
Scientific Name: Pomacea haustrum
Common Names: Triton Apple Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 3 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 18-26 degrees Celsius (68-78 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin/Habitat: South America
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
These snails are voracious consumers devouring almost all types of plants including duckweeds (Lemna minor) hence they are not suitable for planted community setups. Juveniles in particular tend to be more avid plant consumers. Any food will be consumed quite enthusiastically as these are not the least bit fussy about their foods at all.
Tank Size For Adult: one per 10g
Narrative:
Pomacea haustrum are snails that are part of the Pomacea genus (formerly Ampullaridae). These are often referred to by their scientific name although they are also called triton apple snail. These snails originated from South America ranging from Brazil, Peru and Bolivia throughout the river system of Amazon River.
Pomacea haustrum can be distinguished by the deeply indented sutures with a sharp shoulder similar to Pomacea insularum. The 3-D model can be found in here (http://www.applesnail.net/content/species_genera.htm) for comparison with other apple snail species.
These snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to breed. They are not sexually matured until they reach 2.5 cm in size. It is not easy to distinguish their sexes however if you can remove the snail out of the water and observe closely the right side of its body, you may find the penis sheath in there. This will tell you the snail is a male. Another way is when they copulate. Males are often found clinging at the right side of their fellow snails. You will know by then the one clinging is a male. Males will attempt to copulate with anyone so the snail they may be clinging could be a male or a female.
They lay clutches of large green eggs above the waterline. The eggs must be kept in warm humid conditions. Removing them from their location involves using a razor blade without crushing them. Wait for 24 hours for the eggs to harden before removing them. Place the clutch in damp paper towel or filter floss afterwards. The eggs will become lighter as time progresses. You can tell when the eggs are about to hatch when they break easily as you touch or attempt to move them. The hatchlings may need a little assistance in this case. You can gently swish the eggs in the water so they fall off to the bottom although most hatchlings are able to find their way to the water. The hatchlings will remain hidden from view most of the time so be patient. They will eventually show up. They can be identified by the green dot coloring their sutures which eventually disappears as they grow.
Feeding them is not a problem as they are not at all fussy with foods. They eat all types of plant matter and are banned from interstate shipping and distribution. This species is more resistant to lower temperatures than most apple snails. They are most active during the night. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
References/Links:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
Scientific Name: Pomacea insularum
Common Names:
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 4 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: 18-28 degrees Celsius (68-84 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin: Islands of Parana, La Plata, Bolivia
Temperament: peaceful to aggressive
Compatible Tankmates:
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
Diet:
These snails are voracious consumers devouring almost all types of plants including duckweeds (Lemna minor) hence they are not suitable for planted community setups. Juveniles in particular tend to be more avid plant consumers. Any food will be consumed quite enthusiastically as these are not the least bit fussy about their foods at all.
Meaty foods have been known to increase their cannibalistic tendencies especially when fed with a weakened or dead snail. They have also been recorded thus far to even eat live fish when a prey least expects it although this is a very rare and unusual case but be particularly selective when choosing their fish tankmates. Bottom dwellers with fleshy bodies such as serpentine loaches are best avoided to prevent any possible predation from happening.
Tank Size For Adult: A 10g per adult.
Narrative:
Pomacea insularum are snails that are part of the Pomacea genus (formerly Ampullaridae). These snails originated from South America ranging from Southeast Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia. These are now also widespread across Asia due to their ability to survive various environmental conditions. They have established populations in Hawaii and Florida.
It can be distinguished similar to the Pomacea haustrum by the deeply indented sutures with a sharp shoulder with the exception of egg color which in the case of Pomacea haustrum, they lay green eggs whereas the snail in question lays bubblegum pink eggs.
These snails are sexual and therefore need a partner in order to breed. They are not sexually matured until they reach 2.5 cm in size. It is not easy to distinguish their sexes however if you can remove the snail out of the water and observe closely the right side of its body, you may find the penis sheath in there. This will tell you the snail is a male. Another way is when they copulate. Males are often found clinging at the right side of their fellow snails. You will know by then the one clinging is a male. Males will attempt to copulate with anyone so the snail they may be clinging could be a male or a female. On the other hand, based on Donya Quick's researches, males tend to be more powerful. They will attack other males especially when they round on a female in order to mate. They are by far one of the most aggressive species in the canaliculata complex. Pomacea insularum is capable of crossbreeding with the Pomacea canaliculata however the resulting babies are not fertile and a majority based on the researches by Donya Quick have genetic deformities.
They lay clutches of bubblegum pink eggs above the waterline containing 200 to 1000 eggs. In comparison to the P. canaliculata, the eggs are smaller in diameter and are laid in a larger clutch. The eggs must be kept in warm humid conditions. Removing them from their location involves using a razor blade without crushing them. Wait for 24 hours for the eggs to harden before removing them. Place the clutch in damp paper towel or filter floss afterwards. The eggs will become lighter as time progresses. You can tell when the eggs are about to hatch when they break easily as you touch or attempt to move them. The hatchlings may need a little assistance in this case. You can gently swish the eggs in the water so they fall off to the bottom although most hatchlings are able to find their way to the water. The hatchlings will remain hidden from view most of the time so be patient. They will eventually show up. They can be identified by the pink dot coloring their sutures which eventually disappears as they grow. They will grow rapidly at this point.
Feeding them is not a problem as they are not at all fussy with foods. They eat all types of plant matter and are banned from interstate shipping and distribution. This species is more resistant to lower temperatures than most apple snails. They are most active during the night. Use calcium enriched foods to ensure their shells will not erode. The use of calcium pills, liquid calcium, cuttlefish bones and eggshells is widely encouraged for healthy shell conditions. The pH must be maintained no lower than 7.0 as acidic water tends to erode the shells thus leaving the snail more susceptible to health issues, predatory attacks and even death.
They can be kept in most community setups but do not attempt to keep them with fish that have a voracious appetite for invertebrates, particularly loaches of the botiine genus and puffers. Be very careful when selecting their tankmates. Most fish are tempted to nip their eyes and antennae. While the snails have the ability to regenerate their lost body parts, it is not advisable to push through your plans to risk them with possibly nippy fish. They will only be stressed out severely from constant harassments.
If the fish can tolerate hard alkaline water aside from being passive over the snails, they may be your best options as most specimens from soft acidic waters become more prone to finrot once the water chemistry is altered.
References:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
Quick, Donya, 2006 [online] http://lyle.smu.edu/~dquick/snails/insularum.htm
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=5873
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Neritina juttingae
Common Names: Porcupine Nerite Snail
Care Level:
Adult Size:
pH Range:
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat:
Temperament/Behavior:
Compatible Tank mates:
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult:
Narrative:
References/Links:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=2050
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Geosearma spp.
Common Names: Vampire Crab
Care Level:
Adult Size:
pH Range:
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat:
Temperament/Behavior:
Compatible Tank mates:
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult:
Narrative:
References/Links:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=5489
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Limnopilos naiyanetri
Common Names: Plant Crab
Care Level:
Adult Size:
pH Range:
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat:
Temperament/Behavior:
Compatible Tank mates:
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult:
Narrative:
References/Links:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=2015
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Caridina sp. Zebra
Common Names: Zebra Shrimp
Care Level:
Adult Size:
pH Range:
Temperature Range: (F/C)
Origin/Habitat:
Temperament/Behavior:
Compatible Tank mates:
Diet:
Tank Size For Adult:
Narrative:
References/Links:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=7061
Photo by pik01.
Scientific Name: Planorbis sp.
Common Names: Common Ramshorn Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1.5 inch
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 22-28 degrees Celsius (72-84 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin/Habitat: Cosmopolitan
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Ramshorn snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
These snails will eat anything from algae, carrion to commercial foods.
Tank Size For Adult: 5 per gallon.
Narrative:
Many consider these snails to be pests due to the fact these are very prolific breeders, but they are very useful as a clean up crew and as an indicator of overfeeding. Commonly hitchhikers on plants, wood, and decorations, they can be very difficult to completely eradicate once established in a tank.
Ramshorns are hermaphroditic and once two mate, sperm is swapped and both can go off and lay their own clutches of eggs. It has been reported that an egg clutch kept at 72F will hatch in only 9 days. Higher temperatures will increase metabolism and will cause the clutch to hatch more quickly.
Ramshorns come in a range of colors and patterns. They can be a very solid dark brown to leopard-spotted, red, pink (as pictured), or even blue. This has been achieved through selective breeding. The norm is usually the brown and therefore is considered to be the dominant gene although some people who have kept various colors are able to breed them without encountering the brown coloration which is achievable by eliminating the brown color from the set groups intended for breeding purposes.
References/Links:
Freshwater Snails (http://www.weichtiere.at/english/gastropoda/freshwater2.html)
Planet Inverts - Ramshorn Snail (http://www.planetinverts.com/ramshorn_snail.html)
Ramshorn Egg Development (http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182964&highlight=ramshorn+clutch)
Snail Infestations and Solutions to Eliminating Them (http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1836882#post1836882)
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=2239
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Clithon flavovirens
Common Names: Horned Nerite Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 0.6 inch
pH Range: 7.6-8.0
Temperature Range: 64-81 degrees Fahrenheit (18-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin: Philippines
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Horned nerite snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet: Like other nerites, horned nerites prefer algae and biofilm as their primary foods. Supplementing them with anything else is next to impossible as they will not take anything easily although there have been occasional reports of them found to be eaten carrot slices, cucumber slices, peas and snail jello with pea flavor.
Tank Size For Adult: 1 per 2.5g. Note however that this is more of a guideline than actual stocking. Nerites excrete a lot of wastes for their size and it is advisable that the filtration be maximized when considering these snails.
Narrative:
Horned nerite snails (Clithon flavovirens) have been reported to be found in the Philippines. Colors vary depending on the sources where they were obtained from. These are distinguishable by their green hue on the shell with a black spot.
Horned nerite snail is named after its spines found at the rear part of its shell. The spikes are meant as a defense mechanism from predators and can inflict cuts if not handled carefully. Nerites are extremely docile animals that will not bother anything at all.
Horned nerites grow no more than an inch size in shell diameter. Their shells are very thick and these are great calcium absorbers requiring lots of calcium to maintain sturdy shells. They will eat nothing but algae and biofilm. Many people have reported unsuccessful attempts to get them to eat other foods such as the popular homemade snail jello with the possible exception of those with peas mixed which have been reported to attract the snail into eating them. It is therefore very important that these snails be introduced in a well established tank where it will meet its adequate food supply.
Horned nerite snails are efficient algae eaters and are often suggested as "clean up crews" for several different biotopes. Due to their spikes, they can easily deter most predators however it is not advisable to mix them with fish that will potentially harass or harm them to death. Care must be taken when trying to keep these snails. They will not do well in soft acidic water or water inadequate or lacking in calcium as this will cause shell erosion which will eventually leave the snail prone to damages and other health issues.
Breeding is next to impossible. Though the snails will lay trails of white eggs around the tank, none of the eggs will remain viable enough to hatch into velligers (larva) as the eggs require brackish conditions in order to hatch. The larva themselves need microalgae and phytoplanktons in order to survive to snail stage.
References/Links:
www.arizonainverts.com (http://www.arizonainverts.com)
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=1989
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Vitta usnea; Neritina reclivata
Common Names: Olive Green Nerite Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1.25 inches
pH Range: 7.6-8.2
Temperature Range: (F/C) 56-95 degrees Fahrenheit (13-35 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Southern USA
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Olive green nerite snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
Like other nerites, olive green nerites prefer algae and biofilm as their primary foods. Supplementing them with anything else is next to impossible as they will not take anything easily although there have been occasional reports of them found to be eaten carrot slices, cucumber slices, peas and snail jello with pea flavor.
Tank Size For Adult:
2 per 2.5g. Note however that this is more of a guideline than actual stocking. Nerites excrete a lot of wastes for their size and it is advisable that the filtration be maximized when considering these snails.
Narrative:
References/Links:
www.arizonainverts.com (http://www.arizonainverts.com)
Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis
Common Names: Zebra Nerite Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1.6 inch
pH Range: 7.6-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 68-81 degrees Fahrenheit (18-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Philippines
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Zebra nerite snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
Like other nerites, olive green nerites prefer algae and biofilm as their primary foods. Supplementing them with anything else is next to impossible as they will not take anything easily.
Tank Size For Adult:
2 per 2.5g. Note however that this is more of a guideline than actual stocking. Nerites excrete a lot of wastes for their size and it is advisable that the filtration be maximized when considering these snails.
Narrative:
References/Links:
www.arizonainverts.com
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/picture.php?groupid=22&pictureid=3995
Photo by Arakkis.
Scientific Name: Neritina turreta
Common Names: Zebra Nerite Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1.5 inch
pH Range: 7.6-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 68-81 degrees Fahrenheit (18-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Indonesia
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Zebra nerite snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
Like other nerites, zebra nerites prefer algae and biofilm as their primary foods. Supplementing them with anything else is next to impossible as they will not take anything easily.
Tank Size For Adult:
2 per 2.5g. Note however that this is more of a guideline than actual stocking. Nerites excrete a lot of wastes for their size and it is advisable that the filtration be maximized when considering these snails.
Narrative:
These snails can be differentiated from the Neritina natalensis by their more elongated shell shape.
References/Links:
www.arizonainverts.com (http://www.arizonainverts.com/)
http://www.crayfishmates.com/crayfish_forum/uploads/1229038684/gallery_1_27_115631.jpg
Photo by Crusty of Crayfishmates.com.
Scientific Name: Cherax depressus
Common Names: Orange Fingered Crayfish
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 5 inch with an approximate weight of 0.55 pounds
pH Range: 7.6-8.5
Temperature Range: (F/C) 71-77 degrees Fahrenheit (22-25 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Australia
Temperament/Behavior: aggressive
Compatible Tank mates:
Best confined in a species only tank.
Diet:
High protein pellets, vegetables, plant material, live feed (Small fish, worms etc.)
Tank Size For Adult: 15g per adult.
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Narrative:
They become sexually matured at 1-2 years and are found in ephemeral wetlands.
References/Links:
Lupin
02-23-2009, 11:12 PM
Scientific Name: Pila conica
Common Names: Black Apple Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 72-84 degrees Fahrenheit (20-28 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Philippines, India
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Pila conica will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
In the wild, these eat mainly decaying organic materials and plants with soft foliage.
Tank Size For Adult: 3 per 5g
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Narrative:
Pila conica is found mainly in the Philippines and India. They have dark shells with heavily calcified operculums. They lay white eggs above the water surface and hatching takes place for weeks depending on the temperature and humidity.
Locally in the Philippines, they are called "iggy" and are used as food by the local folks. They are far tastier than the introduced species, Pomacea canaliculata. These snails are not however widespread in the trade due to lack of interest in this species nor adequate studies conducted.
They have been widely displaced in the Philippines since the introduction of the aggressive feeders Pomacea canaliculata. They are now seldom found around the rice paddies, rivers and other waterways and remain isolated until now from much of the human activities.
References/Links:
www.applesnail.net (http://www.applesnail.net)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/Blue_076/Picture001-1.jpg (http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/Blue_076/Picture001-1.jpg)
Photo by Lupin.
Scientific Name: Cipangopaludina chinensis; Bellamya chinensis; Viviparus malleatus
Common Names: Chinese Mystery Snail, Chinese Vivipara, Tanisha, Rice Snail, Chinese Apple Snail, Asian Apple Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: (F/C) 59-71 degrees Fahrenheit (15-22 degrees Celsius)
Origin/Habitat: Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan, Philippines, Indonesia, Korea and everywhere else as exotic.
Temperament/Behavior: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Like all other snails, these are best kept with fish that will not bother them too much. Plecos, guppies, corydoras, rasboras, tetras and most other placid fish will work well.
Diet:
In the wild, these eat mainly algae, phytoplanktons, zooplanktons, and organic and inorganic matter. They will however appreciate commercial foods in captivity but not as much as the planktonic substances as these are very slow to become accustomed to different diet preferring algae over anything else.
Tank Size For Adult: 1 per 2.5g
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Narrative:
Cipangopaludina chinensis is found mainly in Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan, Philippines, Indonesia, Korea and everywhere else as exotic species since they have been introduced worldwide as food for human consumption and even intentionally released from the aquarium particularly in North America. They were not observed to have any negative impact to the ecosystem although they pose a threat to the human health by serving as vectors/hosts of most parasites such as Aspidogaster conchicola which is the first ever recorded in North America.
These are the true "mystery" snails, not the Ampullaridae. They have dark olive green shells and are livebearers that will give birth to several young snails. There are 6-7 whorls, all of which are globose.
Locally in the Philippines, they are called "bagunggong" and are used as food by the local folks. They are far tastier than the introduced species, Pomacea canaliculata. They are not as commonly available in the trade as the true apple snails despite the fact they have already been distributed globally particularly in North America where they are not a native of.
These snails are suitable for planted tank setups as these will not devour healthy plants mainly focusing on algae making them another species that are quite efficient in consuming algae. These snails are very shy and more often than not, they are very slow crawlers and will quickly withdraw into their shells when they feel threatened. They will also withdraw into their shells when conditions are unfavorable especially when the temperature soars above 71 degrees Fahrenheit as these are basically coldwater species.
They have been widely displaced in the Philippines since the introduction of the aggressive feeders Pomacea canaliculata. They are now seldom found around the rice paddies, rivers and other waterways and remain isolated until now from much of the human activities.
The taxonomy of this species has been branched around creating too much mess and confusion in the literature therefore you will find that this species has other synonymous scientific names such as Bellamya chinensis, Viviparus chinensis, Viviparus japonicus, Viviparus malleatus and many more.
References/Links:
http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/natsci/malacology/fl-snail/snails1.htm
http://nis.gsmfc.org/nis_factsheet.php?toc_id=125
http://nematode.unl.edu/mysterysn.htm
http://66.218.69.11/search/cache?ei=UTF-8&p=cipangopaludina+japonica+aquarium&fr=yfp-t-501&u=www.mass.gov/dcr/waterSupply/lakepond/downloads/snailRoundup.pdf&w=cipangopaludina+japonica+aquarium+aquariums&d=GCJOY52uSaa_&icp=1&.intl=us
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r155/Blue_076/BabyMTS.jpg
Photo by Lupin.
Scientific Name: Melania sp.; Thiara sp.
Common Names: Malaysian Trumpet Snail; Malayan Trumpet Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 1-2 inches depending on the species
pH Range: 6.5-8.0
Temperature Range: 18-30 degrees Celsius (64-86 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin: cosmopolitan
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Like all other snails, they tend to do well in a community tank provided there are no fish that will harass or eat them. Most of the loach species are unable to destroy these snails due to the shell structure and operculum (trapdoor) however there are species that have elongated snouts enabling them to penetrate through the defenses of the MTS. Puffers are still one of the top threats as they are capable of crushing through hard shells with their powerful beaks.
Diet:
MTS are not fussy eaters. In fact, the more abundant the food supply, the faster they reproduce. They will take well to vegetable matter, decaying organic matter, commercial foods and meaty foods with no problem.
Tank Size For Adult: As these proliferate rather quickly, there is no set guideline on stone as they will add up to the bioload faster than anything else can.
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Narrative:
Malaysian trumpet snails are one of the snails found to hike amongst plants, woods and other decorations. They have a potential to overcrowd a tank due to their ability to reproduce rather quickly beyond the aquarist's control as they are livebearers and are asexual therefore not requiring long incubation periods in comparison to other species.
Despite the fact these snails are considered a pest by most aquarists, they can prove themselves rather beneficial to planted tanks where they burrow around the substrate thus aerating it and preventing the substrate from getting compact which can choke the plant roots. They have been dubbed by some hobbyists as "earthworms of the aquatic garden". They are in general nocturnal and tend not to show up until dusk so if you really want to get rid of these, leave a lettuce overnight and you can simply drop the bait loaded with snails to the bin.
There are actually several species of MTS however due to various colors, patterns and shell structures, it has become increasingly difficult to properly identify the actual species of MTS. Thiara winteri is one of the rarely available species of MTS although there are a few more species that are often seen around but no one bothers too much identifying them anyway since almost all MTS have a similar disposition.
References/Links:
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?category=Shells&species=Thiara%20species&family=THIARIDAE
Scientific Name: Physas sp.
Common Names: Bladder Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 0.8 inch
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: 22-30 degrees Celsius (72-86 degrees Fahrenheit)
Origin: Cosmopolitan
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
Bladder snails will work almost perfectly with all community setups provided the water conditions required are met. They should not however be mixed with fish that will constantly harass or harm them to death such as loaches of the botiine genus and puffers.
Diet:
These snails will eat anything from algae, carrion to commercial foods.
Tank Size For Adult: As these proliferate rather quickly, there is no set guideline on stone as they will add up to the bioload faster than anything else can.
Lifespan: 1-2 years
Narrative:
Bladder snails are one of the snails found to hike amongst plants, woods and other decorations. They have a potential to overcrowd a tank due to their ability to reproduce rather quickly beyond the aquarist's control as these are asexual. They are observed to start reproducing at an early age by laying several egg sacs each containing dozens of baby snails. Incubation period takes one to two weeks and the newborn snails reach full grown size in less than four weeks.
Despite the fact these snails are considered a pest by most aquarists, they will readily eat decaying organic matter and will not eat healthy plants as alleged by most planted tank enthusiasts. It is purely coincidental that they could simply be feeding on the plants due to the absence of vegetable matter in their diet or the plants are dying from nutrient deficiency.
There are actually several species of bladder snails however due to various colors, patterns and shell structures, it has become increasingly difficult to properly identify the actual species so most people do not bother to identify them anymore.
Scientific Name: Lymnaea stagnalis
Common Names: Giant Pond Snail
Care Level: easy
Adult Size: 2 inches
pH Range: 7.0-8.0
Temperature Range: 41-81 degrees Fahrenheit (5-27 degrees Celsius)
Origin:
It is widespread throughout Europe, northern Asia and North America although it has been found to be scarce in Wales and Scotland.
Temperament: peaceful
Compatible Tank mates:
They work well in community tanks although they should not be kept with anything that will harass them to death.
Diet:
Giant pond snails are not fussy with their diet and will readily eat commercial foods, algae, biofilm and decaying organic matter.
Tank Size For Adult: 2 per gallon.
Lifespan: 2 years
Narrative:
Giant pond snails prefer stagnant water hence the scientific name, Lymnaea stagnalis. These snails have been found to be widespread throghout Europe, northern Asia and North America although they have been found now to be scarce in Wales and Scotland but they are not on the IUCN Red List which would indicate their status of existence.
They ingest grains of sand deliberately which stay in their gizzards to help break down tougher plant material. They are also seen floating upside down to collect air thus enabling them to stay underwater several months. Their survival instincts during winter are enhanced by burrowing through the soft mud to hibernate. They then secrete a thick seal over the mouth of the shell called an epiphragm. This helps to protect them from the cold until spring when they emerge again.
These snails breed readily laying egg sacs around just like the bladder snails (Physas sp.) They seem to use a seminal product to manipulate their partner and mate in the male role when enough seminal fluid is available in the prostate gland. Receipt of semen not only initiates egg laying in virgin animals, but also feminizes the mating partner later in life. This increases in the female function have been shown to go at the expense of growth and seminal fluid production of the sperm recipient. Although in Helix, and probably also Lymnaea, the sperm donor benefits from the induced changes through increased fertilization success, the sperm recipient may experience injury, imposed reallocation of resources, and altered sperm storage. These findings support the existence of sexual conflict in simultaneously hermaphroditic snails, and its importance for the evolution of mating behaviors and reproductive morphologies is discussed.
References/Links:
http://www.arkive.org/great-pond-snail/lymnaea-stagnalis/range-and-habitat.html
http://icb.oxfordjournals.org/cgi/content/full/46/4/419http://www.junglewalk.com/popup.asp?type=s&AnimalWebsiteID=2354