Thinking of starting a FW Tank... Please Help

[diverjohn101]

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to this forum. So, I would like to thank you all in advance for any and all information. It is and will be greatly appreciated.

A little background info, I've been running a 65 gal saltwater tank successfully for a few years.

Now, I just acquired a 55 gal. tank that used to be used for saltwater, and I wanted to start a FW tank, fish only of course for now.

1. What other equipment would I need to purchase to get it up and running?
i.e. - lights, filters, pumps, other necessary equipment...?

2. Would the power Compaq lighting for saltwater be sufficient ? (2 x 96 watts, only one side of the ballast works so, the white light would be the functional one).

3. Does the filtration on a large FW tank work similar to a SW tank?

** Whatever information you guys can provide to make this tank come to life with the least amount of headaches would be appreciated. **

Thanks,

DiverJohn

[Ezekielz]

Well freshwater tanks really do not need much lighting unless of course you are housing live plants. That light setup is just begging for green pea soup! Would you know how many wattage you have under that white light?

[diverjohn101]

Ezekielz,

Thanks for the reply... The lighting is for a SW rig... So, the white light is a 36" 96w Actinic. I can purchase new lighting if necessary. But, I'd rather try to salvage as much as possible. The ballast is only functioning with one bulb. Which I can either use the blue light or the white light not both.(either one would be 96w) total both functioning 2 x 96w.

What would you suggest?

Thanks,

[Ezekielz]

Well how long would you keep the light on? And I mean religously, how long?

[OldMan47]

The deal with a freshwater unplanted tank is that nearly 2 watts per gallon is too much light unless you want algae to grow in the tank. In the fresh side, an unplanted tank usually runs less than 1 WPG. A planted setup can easily use 2WPG or more if you are willing to focus on the plant side of things and go with fertilizers and CO2 injection. Lights in an unplanted tank are only left on while you are present to view the fish to minimize the excess light effects also.
A 55 gallon is a size where many make the change from simple HOB filters to canisters. Filtration on FW is basically just mechanical and biological. We don't get into exotic things like live rock or skimmers. Nitrates are removed by simply doing water changes.
For heat, you can use about 200 to 250 watts of heater in a typical home environment where heating demands are not too great.

[Blown 346]

Hi all,

I'm fairly new to this forum. So, I would like to thank you all in advance for any and all information. It is and will be greatly appreciated.

A little background info, I've been running a 65 gal saltwater tank successfully for a few years.

Now, I just acquired a 55 gal. tank that used to be used for saltwater, and I wanted to start a FW tank, fish only of course for now.

1. What other equipment would I need to purchase to get it up and running?
i.e. - lights, filters, pumps, other necessary equipment...?

2. Would the power Compaq lighting for saltwater be sufficient ? (2 x 96 watts, only one side of the ballast works so, the white light would be the functional one).

3. Does the filtration on a large FW tank work similar to a SW tank?

** Whatever information you guys can provide to make this tank come to life with the least amount of headaches would be appreciated. **

Thanks,

DiverJohn


Your light will be fine to use for a FW tank and even a low tech planted tank. With just that one 96 watt daylight bulb will work just fine for lower light plants if you go that route. The actinic bulb(blue) doesnt have any effect on plants, but it will wash out the yellow that the daylight bulb brings, and will help bring out the color of the fish.

Filtration can consist of a Hang on the back filter, or a canister filter. The key here is whether the tank will only house fish, or live plants.
If live plants then you dont want much surface agitation, just enough to break the surface. Filtration will work just like it would on a FW as it does Salt. But that also depends on what type of filtration you have on the saltwater setup as they do differ. Sumps are usually not wanted for planted tanks. But they are fine for fish only.

If you do want to go planted, dpending on the plants you choose you might have to go with Co2 injection.

[msjinkzd]

I prefer canister filtration as media cannot be bypassed. They are also quieter and IMO look cleaner on a tank as well as being superior for actual filtration. I think running 1x96w on your tank will be fine, just limit your photoperiod. You would be able to add some low light plants in the future this way, and having the potential to put on the second bulb really makes your project have potential for the future if you decide to go planted. I prefer two heaters and filters in tanks over 55g for redundancy.

[smitty]

Here is my suggestion for running a great tank with healthy fish for years of pleasure. Assuming money is not a great issue. Remember you can not over filter water.
Canister- Eheim (Go as big as possible 2260, but the much smaller 2217 will work

Hang on power filter- Aqua Clear 110 (These filter do not keep digging into your pocket with having to buy filter packs like all the others do. All you have to do to clean filter sponge is rinse it out in aqaurium water and return it to the filter box. Don't fall for the bio-wheel hype) if possible use 2 110 filters

Heater- Visi-Therm 300watt (lifetime gaurantee)

Lighting- What you have is okay. Yes, you will probably get an algae bloom but after your biological is running strong you should be okay.

I used this same set up I had great looking fish and fab plecos. I am now running it on a 75gal and twice as much on my 200gal and 150gal.
good luck

[wataugachicken]

Here is my suggestion for running a great tank with healthy fish for years of pleasure. Assuming money is not a great issue. Remember you can not over filter water.
Canister- Eheim (Go as big as possible 2260, but the much smaller 2217 will work

Hang on power filter- Aqua Clear 110 (These filter do not keep digging into your pocket with having to buy filter packs like all the others do. All you have to do to clean filter sponge is rinse it out in aqaurium water and return it to the filter box. Don't fall for the bio-wheel hype) if possible use 2 110 filters

Heater- Visi-Therm 300watt (lifetime gaurantee)

Lighting- What you have is okay. Yes, you will probably get an algae bloom but after your biological is running strong you should be okay.

I used this same set up I had great looking fish and fab plecos. I am now running it on a 75gal and twice as much on my 200gal and 150gal.
good luck

What about bio-wheel filters is "hype"? Some facts or links might be nice to back up your bias. Maybe the OP would like to make a decision for himself after looking at the evidence?

[FishJones]

What about bio-wheel filters is "hype"? Some facts or links might be nice to back up your bias. Maybe the OP would like to make a decision for himself after looking at the evidence?

Calm down, the dude is entitled to his opinion.

Diverjohn, just be prepared for a long period of (4-6 weeks at least) for the FW tank to cycle.

[diverjohn101]

Thank you all for your responses.

FishJones-- As for the cycling I am aware of the time I had to wait almost 8 weeks for my SW tank to cycle correctly and I planned out my fish in that time. (That was a grueling 8 weeks LOL).

Now my budget is not that big well, lets say its almost non-existant.
I'm looking to set it up as minimal maintenance. But staying as low as possible on budget. (with my saltwater tank I just change some filter floss in my wet/dry and some additives once every other week and once a month i do a 20% water change. w/ water top off every other day).

What would I need to get this tank to be the same way? I don't think I'll be doing planted for now. (But it would be an option in the future far into the future)

I would like to try to make a list of preferred equipment and how to set it up.
If anyone would be able to help me in this manner.

Thanks...

[wataugachicken]

in saltwater, tanks are set up so that nitrates are processed and removed within the system. in freshwater, there is nothing similar available to remove the nitrates, except for a heavily planted tank with a low fish load. when you get into that sort of self-maintaining system, it also involves specialized lighting, fertilizers, a CO2 source, etc, as well as the initial cost of the plants themselves. as far as freshwater goes, you can either do the regular maintenance (maybe 50% water change once a week depending on stock), or spend $$$ to do less of it. I don't think you can have it both ways if you want the fish to stay healthy.