Aquarium Anatomy

[pkumar]

Hello All,

Being somewhat technically challenged, It took me a little while to figure out how to start a thread. This is my first thread...ever, and is one that I feel will be very important to finally get a project that I have been considering for the past several months, off to a good start. I've been away from the hobby for several years, and mostly have kept angels in the past. I've finally finished all school/training etc, and just last week, my wife has approved this endeavour...(i think i sold her on the "it'll be like a piece of nice furniture/ focal point of the room" bit)

Anyway, introduction aside, My goal is for a 72inX24inX30in planted discus tank. This will pose several challenges for me as a hobbist and, well, first things first, the tank itself. I am going acrylic. I had first wanted a simple show tank with inflow and outflow tubing behind the aquarium. Then I had ordered Jeff Senske's book, and have seen several examples of freshwater aquaria with plumbing involving inflow and outflow plumbed through the bottom of the tank. Although this seems to improve aesthetics, will there be a big problem when factoring in CO2 injection? Will I need overflows built in? Where should I have the manufacturer drill the holes?!? I know people say that there are no dumb questions, and I probably have just shattered that theory, but I do not want to make any expensive mistakes. As far as my thoughts on filters, I am considering an eheim pro III 2180 which I believe has two inflow and one outflow port. I realize this request for help has been slightly drawn out, and no I do not write novels for a living. How should I have my tank built? Thank you everyone in advance for your input.

Sincerely,

Prashanth
Apple Valley, CA

[Rbishop]

Since you want CO2, stay with canister filters, to minimize how much gasses off.

A reputable glass dealer should be able to drill it for you, but even you can do it. Depending on who you acquire the tank from, they may pre-drill it for you.

[pkumar]

Thank You, I am planning on a canister filter. I have narrowed things down to tenecor or SP aquatics to build the tank. I still don't have good idea of how water will flow in the tank. The eheim has two inflows and one outflow. So will I need two overflows, one on each back corner draining to bulkheads at the bottom with the one outflow being in the middle back section of the tank connected to a spraybar? Thanks for your time.

Sincerely,
Prashanth

[Star_Rider]

if you are going with cannister filters you don't need to have overflows.

if you want to go over flow (sump) you can use stand pipes to minimize gurgling and off gass of CO2 via the over flow.

if you get a sump and can seal the bio media area you again minimize the off gas of CO2. as a matter of fact you may recylce trapped CO2 in the bio area of the sump.
baffles after the bio media area prevent water disturbance and keep off gassed CO2 in the bio area.
there is a bit of a water fall after the baffles but you can minimize splash by keeping water level near the lip.
this sump is similar to the one I have. the baffles in mine are taller so part of the media is submerged.

[Turbosaurus]

If you're going to plumb the tank through the bottom, don't bother with canisters. A sump will let you hide your equipment (heaters, etc), just get rid of the trickle plates and bio balls. You can use sheets of sponge media for mechanical and biological filtration, use them as a divider in your sump between where the water flows in and where your pump flows back into the tank. You'll probably want more than one, and depending on how much equipment you have inline, you may want to add additional pumps along the line.

Look up APC for Scolley's (sp?) thread for everything you ever wanted to know about plumbing and drilling a big discus tank. I think its called Son of big kahuna or something like that.... His previous tank was the kahuna, this was his second go round. Do a search for kahuna, you'll find it. http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/

Everything you ever wanted to know about plumbing a big tank and it will highlight a lot of good ideas and a lot of the unforeseen problems along the way that you can hopefully learn from and avoid. I recommend it highly.

[pkumar]

Star_rider - Thank You. I didn't think a sump and a freswater planted tank could co-exist peacefully. It's a great Idea, and is definately out of the box from which I was thinking. Turbosaurus (thank you as well) seems to recommend the same. I was considering that particular Eheim because it had a 500W heater within, but pricey. The equipment, I guess I wouldn't need inline heaters anymore if I could lay them in the sump, will also include CO2 injection ( a whole another topic) and UV sterilizer - maybe inline with the outflow. My goal is to try to keep things as simple as possible.

Turbosaurus, I went through the "son of kahuna" thread a couple of weeks ago. Absolutely fantastic tank and equipment. I think I developed vertigo when looking through his diagram, and then suffered a generalized seizure when looking pics of his setup underneath the aquarium. I'll tell you right now, I am not capable of that masterpiece, and it certainly is.

So with this idea of a sump setup, plumbing underneath the tank, and eliminating overflow. I guess that leads to getting a simple "show tank" with holes predrilled. The guy at Tenecor I have been speaking with says that they will be able to do this no problem. I imagine they should be able to build the sump as well? Again, I'm not much of a DIY guy. I still feel more "comfortable" with the idea of a canister filter, but do agree that the sump idea is intriguing. This whole bit about plumbing through the bottom has put a hold on the stand (having local wood worker build the stand) - as he needs to know specifics about locations of the holes / weather the back can be closed off slightly (with room for outlets etc). I'm sorry, I'm getting off the topic. Thank you guys/gals for the input.

Sincerely,

Prashanth

[Star_Rider]

pkumar,
consider the stand pipe
this will give you an idea of what they look like

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+12078&pcatid=12078

[pkumar]

star_rider

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks for the link. That seems like a simple enough concept. Would I have two corner overflows built in to each back corner with a stand pipe set-up (inflow and outflow) in each corner. Or would I use one overflow as the outflow and then return flow into the aquarium in the opposite corner or side of the aquarium. I plan to house discus...eventually, and am sure I need efficient filtration, but also water flow to be on the more "gentle" side. Thanks for the ideas, I have a more concrete idea about the plumbing issues than I did three days ago!
Sincerely,
-Prashanth

[Rbishop]

Be sure to post a build thread as you set it up!

[pkumar]

I'd love to start a build thread. Just going through the threads here has given me terrific insight into the planning stages of things. I'm sure the learning curve will be somewhat steep at the start (as i am finding out). I will concurrently be attempting to build this tank/w/ plants etc in the living room AND trying to learn how to care for discus at the same time...am contemplating setting up a few bare tanks in the garage to try to do this. WHew! I get nervous just thinking about it, but at some point will need to just take a deep breath and just dive in.

- Prashanth

[Turbosaurus]

on my 125 I use an overflow/sump on one end- the sump holds all of my heaters and has a really heavy duty pump to power the water through my Co2 reactor and UV. That's another good thing about a sump- you can get a really high flow pump to compensate for the drag all of the inline equipment would cause for a lot less money than a canister filter capable of moving the same GPH. I have an adjustable 1200 GPH pump in my sump. I have an eheim classic on the other end. I have an eheim pro with the heater inside on another tank, but don't think its worth it if you have the room for a sump instead. Also, if one of the heaters in your sump goes, its easy to replace it.

Just one thing I can not recommend highly enough- get quick disconnects for your hoses - for both ends of each piece of equipment. That way if you ever have to remove any one piece of the puzzle its a snap. They are a lifesaver.