return pump ?s

xsdbs

xsdbs

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Oct 16, 2006
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I am getting ready to change my return pump design in my tank. the current pump is a pond master 26 which is rated at 2600 gph and I have been told by members here that the pump is too large for my return line and that it does not allow the fuge to do a good job filtering because the water is moving too fast. right now that pump because of size and heat is an external pump. my question is do most people use an internal or external design for their return pump. I have a Rio 2100 that I am considering to use for the return. I figure that it will probably only do about 1200-1600 gph due to pipe length and I am also considering just using it internally but I am open to suggestions. I plan on taking the pond master and using it as a CL system. thanks for any help.
 
Always ran the pumps internally on the setups i have done..I'd be weary about the Rio, as there was an issue of them leaking oil, although, i could not tell you what models that was, or if its was all....

What is the GPH of your overflow(s) ?
 
Tank size? Sump size? I guess overflow size doesn't matter if your downsizing, you know it can handle it already.

Personally, I stick with Eheim or Danner Mag-Drive for my internal return pumps. No way would I use a Rio, to much at stake and those things are not known for their quality. Mag comes in both 12 and 18 (1200/1800GPH) flavors.
 
hey Reefscape & Ace,
the tank is 150 gallons and fuge/sump is 50 gallon with only about 35 being used ( as an overflow precaution if we get an electrical outage ). the return. I have a 2 in out from the tank and a 1 inch return. I do have a danner hydrive 24 but I am not sure if this is a good enough drop to allow the fuge/sump to do its job as you have both mentioned to me in the past with the pump that I have on it already. The pond master i a high output pump that is also built by danner. I do use a valve on it to try to slow down the water but also realize that this puts stress on the pump as well as continue to use the same amount of current ( wattage ). perhaps I will need to just breakdown and spend some money on a smaller pump, I was just trying to use some of the stuff that I already have.
 
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Oh, well, that is easy, just put a T on your return and have a pipe come back into your first chamber. Install the T sideways so the flow goes straight up and Ts off left. Have valves on each side to adjust the flow. That way you can run your pump full speed and have a "recirculating" return line. Still would be cheaper in the long run in electricity bills to just buy a smaller return pump. You could put in your 2400G pump to reduce it 200GPH to start, and also have the T in place and it will only cost you a couple $ in PVC parts to accomplish.
 
Ace25 said:
Oh, well, that is easy, just put a T on your return and have a pipe come back into your first chamber. Install the T sideways so the flow goes straight up and Ts off left. Have valves on each side to adjust the flow. That way you can run your pump full speed and have a "recirculating" return line. Still would be cheaper in the long run in electricity bills to just buy a smaller return pump. You could put in your 2400G pump to reduce it 200GPH to start, and also have the T in place and it will only cost you a couple $ in PVC parts to accomplish.
Click to expand...

I am sorry, but I am a little confused here on the placement of this T. are you saying to take the return line that I have going to the main tank, place the T here and send 1 side to the MT and then 1 side back into the fuge? would this slow down the water enough for the fuge to actually filter or would it just be a bandaid? If I do just buy a smaller pump to use for a return line I would still want to use the pond master for a CL which would allow me to take out my 2 rios and just run my 2 korlia 4's and this would be a lot more water movement in the MT correct. thanks
 
You can just use a ball valve to throttle the pump back on the outlet side. It actually results in less electricity usage (odd-sounding, I know, but true). Although, having the T present is handy for routing feed lines for media reactors and negating the need for separate feed pumps.
 
If your return pump is on the right side of the chamber, put in a T about 6-12" above the top of your sump. Put the T in sideways so the flow to your tank is still a straight shot. The T side can be used like Amph said, you can install various media reactors using that line to power those, then have the output of those going back into the first chamber. Or for now, you can just have a piece of PVC going back into the first chamber, maybe a second filter sock to clean it again. It will help with your problem of pulling water through too fast.

Or stick with the valve solution your currently doing. I didn't know restricting pumps actually reduced power consumption. I wonder if heat is an issue or extra wear and tear?
 
Well, the heat should theoretically be less, since there is less overall energy going into the pump. There may be a slight elevation in frictional heat, but the two would balance out or even be less overall. Beyond that, I've throttled pumps back for many years without issues.
 
sorry, I called into action of the honey do list. I would have thought that there would be some negative reactions while restricting the output of the pump and it does sound strange that there would be less electricity used during restriction.
Ace, thanks for the better description on the placement of the T. well I guess that I will have a week to ponder on it seeing how I lost today but I guess the positive is a happy wife (right). Thanks again for the help.
 
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