Lost an Oto :(

[LouRey]

Darn it I can't believe this! I have 2 Oto's one looks like he's about to explode his tummy is so big and the other that looked "normal" and acted like an Oto should I found dead this morning. Now I know there was no foul play as they are with my peaceful rasboras but man this one didn't even last 3 weeks!

I know the LFS around my area aren't very good (understatement of the year) and I would give up on these fish entirely if I didn't love them so much. They have plenty of food with supplemented pellets so it didn't starve and the LFS had them for 2 weeks before I got them. Now I'm worried the other one will stress and die.

Should I buy a new one now or wait in case there's something in my water?

Any posts I should look at that I may have missed?

Thanks,

Lou

[FishyCracker]

Otocinclus are generally considered "sensitive" fish and many factors contribute to this. The way they are caught in the wild and the conditions in which they are treated and transported is primitive at best. Some even say they put some sort of cyanide in the rivers to slow them down and this may cause the bloody red lungs that is more common in the recent years. We could go on and on but lets get back to your case.

When purchasing otocinclus it is advisable to buy the fish in a group of 5 or 6 from an established tank (the otocinclus have been in there for almost a month)

Your aquarium should house a few different broadleafed plants and some places to hide. The water must perfect. Take some readings and monitor your tank. You need to do weekly water changes of around 20%. Otocinclus need to eat more then just algae, give them some flash boiled cuccumber or similar vegetable at night as well.

Good luck to you and sorry for your lose.

[Mokomon]

I'm sorry :(

[LouRey]

My tank is cycled and planted. There is algae in there galore. Now I'm scared the bloated one has dropsy. He's listless and I'm not sure he's eating. I tried to get a picture but it came out all blurry.

If I were to wait a month to buy from a LFS then I'd get even hungrier fish! I'm pretty sure they don't feed them.

Oh well praying for the remaining one.

Lou

[ct-death]

I find Otos difficult to acclimate at first, but if done properly they should be quite hardy once established. Along the same notes, if your tank goes through any sudden changes this too affects them greatly (thus they are often labeled "sensitive") - ie. pH swings, etc.

I would make sure you acclimation process is very good (floating a bag does not constitue acclimating).

As for the fish you have (a picture speaks a thousand words), but they definately don't sound good. What are you water parameters? Remember Otos like moving, fresh water. Water temp?

Are they using their suckers to attach, or are they 'resting' on something with their fins to prop themselves up (signs of a healthy Oto)? Or are they belly to the ground, or worse?

[LouRey]

The only living oto was belly to the ground but today he seems to have debloated a bit and is on the glass. Opps ok he was on the glass but is now hiding in the plants which is his usual place he's rocking back & forth. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and going out to buy test kits!

[abcdefghi]

I find Otos difficult to acclimate at first, but if done properly they should be quite hardy once established.

I find this with mine, I bought 6, lost one initially, the remaining 5 are fat and have survived tank moves, angel fish, and a columnaris outbreak. I think I have 3 females and 2 males, but not certain.

[mel_20_20]

I've had my 2 ottos since around November, I think, and they are the sweetest little things. I've had a few mini cycle episodes but they have come through them and seem to be doing well.

I think Seachem Prime has saved them from the affects of my inexperience by detoxifying ammonia and nitrites whenever I've had a spike. The spikes I've had have never been huge, just around .25 usually.

I have noticed that the presense of detectable ammonia or nitrites have a definite effect on them. They clamp their fins and have a definite "look" about them. I usually quickly dump an emergency does of Prime, and get a water change done within 24 hours of the dose.

They seem to be riding out any minor crises I have, but I do believe the Prime is a major factor in keeping them safe in the presence of ammonia and/or nitrites.

I have mine in a 10 gallon, which is more prone to swings, but so far everything in there is OK.

[Star_Rider]

oto's should have plump full tummies.

if they don't that is usually indicative of problems.

sorry for your loss.. but typically it is hard to keep oto's

hang in there.

[coach_z]

i feel your pain i lost two ottos recently.

one yesterday found him under a castle...

the other one i literally lost...cannot find him, tore the tank apart 3 times looking for him....no luck :(

[LouRey]

How do I go about the acclimation process for Otos and what is Seachem Prime? I have Prime for my water changes, is that the same thing?

Thanks!

[mel_20_20]

Yes, that's it. I use it during water changes, but I've also added it at other times if during testing I find I've had a spike, but I don't have the time at that moment to do a water change.

It detoxifies the ammonia and nitrites immediately, giving you time to get back from work and do a water change.

[shawnhu]

How do I go about the acclimation process for Otos and what is Seachem Prime? I have Prime for my water changes, is that the same thing?

Thanks!

Seachem is a company that makes Prime, hence Seachem Prime.

[ct-death]

How do I go about the acclimation process for Otos ...
Thanks!
The ideal method is the drip-method, but most do not have the patience for this (myself included).

I will let you know what I do at least (hopefully others will chime in as well):

- I always like to do a PWC and Vac a day or two before adding any fish, regardless of when I last did one;
- Shut tank lights off
- Test LFS & Tank Water (the below instructions can be adjusted based on the relative closeness of the tank vs. LFS water parameters):

- Dispell most of the LFS water and pour fish/water into a shallow bowl to float (obviously keep enough water to keep your fish swimming freely)
- Let rest for 15-20 minutes (try to avoid looking into the bowl and spooking the new fish)
- I then add 15-40% of the water volume into the bowl every 30 minutes to 1 hour (% and time are dependant on fish sensitivity and/or lfs water that is largely different than my own)
- Once I have added 2-3x the amount of tank water to LFS water that I started out with, I net and place into the tank gently (usually takes 2 hours for most of my fish additions in total, but I tend to go slower as the $ for a fish increases! ;) )
- Remove bowl and water (do not put into tank).

- I like to keep my lights off for another 1-2 hours (the light in the room should be sufficient to observe) to keep the fish calm and reduce aggression.

This is not perfect, but I feel it is a fair compromise to reduce stress and aid in their acclimation to their new environment.

[ct-death]

Prime is: http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html

[LouRey]

OK so I find a big enough bowl that is NOT transparant so I won't be tempted to look at my fish and leave them in just enough LFS water to be comfy for 20 minutes with all lights off. Then I add my own aquarium water 15% approx at 30 minute intervals. Net fish and let them swim with no lights in new home for 1 hour (2 is asking a lot) and TADA they SHOULD live.

Thank you.

[LouRey]

OK I did it. I don't know how well it worked my little otos are deathly white! They are in the main tank now and have started to eat. I hope I didn't hurt them they are really, really tiny!

Wish me luck!

[Chrisinator]

It kinda happens to everyone. I have 3 Otos in my 10G and 1 recently died. I can't find him, but the other 2 are happy with fat bellies. If I were you, I would search for Otos specifically with big fat bellies to replace your lost Oto.

Don't be too hard on yourself, it's the sensitivity of the Otos and because their wild caught that kills them.