what do u thinlk about this light??

tsdpurdue

tsdpurdue

tsdpurdue
Feb 25, 2007
131
0
0
38
Indiana
I would look into better fixtures (or retrofit options) if you want to keep a broad array of organisms. The Tek T5 fixtures work very well if you are intent on having a fixture. If you don't mind some DIY, the IceCap retrofit kits are the best bang for your buck in terms of sheer intensity. If you have enough of the right kind of bulbs, both will allow you to keep virtually anything you want, but for a price.

One alternative that would give you a good deal of options (but still some limitations) would be the Nova Extreme Pro fixture, which features 6 bulbs. That would allow you to keep many different types of corals and many anemones. Just don't expect it to outperform the other options I mentioned.
 
Amphiprion said:
I would look into better fixtures (or retrofit options) if you want to keep a broad array of organisms. The Tek T5 fixtures work very well if you are intent on having a fixture. If you don't mind some DIY, the IceCap retrofit kits are the best bang for your buck in terms of sheer intensity. If you have enough of the right kind of bulbs, both will allow you to keep virtually anything you want, but for a price.

One alternative that would give you a good deal of options (but still some limitations) would be the Nova Extreme Pro fixture, which features 6 bulbs. That would allow you to keep many different types of corals and many anemones. Just don't expect it to outperform the other options I mentioned.
Click to expand...

:iagree: Check out marine depot lighting and look at Metal halides the reflector +ballast combo by Icecap is pretty good price and building a hood is easy for a tank like that. Bow fronts..not so easy and I had a hard time with that one.

Here is the ice cap package at marine depot :
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...ing_metal_halide_icecap_system_reflector.html



But the wood canopy is cheap to make for sure... I am a lover of Birch wood but you can do oak or maple... stain it and seal it to the colors you desire.

It may cost about 70 bucks total with wood glue,stains, seals, finishing nails, and or Mylar if you add that., and hinge for the access panel.

You look at prices for prefab its 300 bucks or more...you can make your own and have it look awsome for way less to.

the nice part about building your own canopy is you can alter it for future upgrades... fixtures you can't or barely can..=(
 
I'd pass on both. PC lighting just lacks the intensity and bulb variety to justify spending the money. T5 HO lighting is only as good as the individual reflectors utilized on each bulb. Good quality light fixtures are not cheap, and if you want maximum flexibility in what you can stock your reef tank with, a low end fixture is not going to be adequate to suit your needs.

I would look into the suggestions mentioned above about a more middle to upper end fixture, or assembling / purchasing retrofit pieces / a kit that'll do much more for you in the long run. I bought the pieces to retrofit T5s into our canopy and saved quite a bit of money compared to the price of an equivalent fixture.
 
How do the ice cap ballasts work. Would I just need to make a hood to mount it in? or is there more involved like wiring and other things like that?
 
It does involve wiring, but it is very simple and is as easy as following the schematic included in the instructions. FWIW, it includes a wiring harness, which plugs directly into the ballast. The only thing that must be wired are the endcaps.
 
Amphiprion said:
It does involve wiring, but it is very simple and is as easy as following the schematic included in the instructions. FWIW, it includes a wiring harness, which plugs directly into the ballast. The only thing that must be wired are the endcaps.
Click to expand...

Yah I bought a new Scanner/Printer I can see if i can find the old simple diagram that came with the ballast box.

But its extremely simpe... Two screw ends on the end of the Caps where the bulbs go in.... I forgot about the color patter...

I believe white and black go to the bulb and green is the one for grounding. The ground is optional...if you have a grounding source like a plumbing pipe you can use a copper band type clamp to clip it to it... not necessary...I know plenty who dont even use that extra ground at all.

Hope this info helps on getting an idea on how it works... I suggest wall mounting the ballasts to...

and always remember this rule: DRIP Loops are a must... the loops should always be below the connections...so if water does get on the wire for some reason..the water collects at the end of the loops...

If you look at your cable lines outside...on the telephone pole you can see all of them have drip loops before going into the tap...or on your house splitter...they should be mounted and have these drip loops before entering the splitter. *Disclaimer: Comcast better have put drip loops in*

If you dont have drip loops fyi on the cable and its not mounted or have a grounding line attatched to a grounding rod or power pole..you can call and complain about a poor install and want a redo done at no cost. =)
This will get you new lines on your house =p*ex cable guy here)
 
Go with the Nova extreme pro...petmountain.com got my 36" with a 10% coupon for $276 free shipping :P I have had the 4 bulb fixture over a 40B amd a 40 long with no problems but no SPS only softies and LPS..the threads are around here somewhere lol if you want to see pix
what size tank is it for? 55g?
pay a little extra, you won't regret it...the lighting is what makes a reef tank
 
Would it be better to have 216 wats of a T5 or 260 watts of a Compact Fl

I have heard that the T5 would be stronger, but how can that be? Is it becasue of the reflector and more light is being directed towards the aquarium?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom