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Wazzucycler
11-11-2003, 12:07 PM
1st. I was wondering which lights produce more heat?


2nd. I will be building a hood for a 10gallon nano-reef(someday) so I will need lots of light! So all suggestions on bulb configurations would be very appreciated. I will also be puting in probably 2 3" cooling fans in as well.

Thanks
Jeff

Wazzucycler
11-11-2003, 12:47 PM
Would this be a good light? Has anybody used it before or any of their other products? Light (http://www.hellolights.com/201xcoaqpcho.html)

Thanks Again
Jeff

reefpicker
11-12-2003, 1:59 PM
Hi,

I have experience with VHO lights. They get hot. Some people claim that power compacts run cooler, but I do not think that is true, because they also get hot.

Any PC will do... For a 10g tank, that hood is probably good...


A fan will help, but not much. The fan helps by increasing "evaporative cooling" and by dissipating the heat away from the water. Having the lights raised above the water is probably a better alternative.

I would also suggest if you are concerned about temp (and you are keeping corals anyway) that you check Ice Probe. Its a much cheaper and cooler alternative than chillers ;)

I think they are sold by Dr. Foster and Smith...

Good luck.

mogurnda
11-12-2003, 2:17 PM
I agree that the light will be excellent for a 10 g nano. The fans in the hood will help a little with the heat in the tank, but mostly will help the bulb and ballast last longer. I use the 130W version of the Corallife fixture in the 20, and don't get a lot of excess heat, but you have a much smaller tank.

Having used the IceProbe, I am unconvinced of its benefits. It reduced the temp in my 20 by a few degrees at best, and I finally decided it wasn't worth the extra plumbing to keep it.

Going lidless, to allow air to circulate freely around the fixture, and raising the light are your best options. Also, keeping powerheads out of the tank will help a lot.
Evaporative cooling is a poor option in a nano, where you will have to be vigilant enough just to keep specific gravity constant.

Wazzucycler
11-12-2003, 2:32 PM
Originally posted by mogurnda
Also, keeping powerheads out of the tank will help a lot.
Evaporative cooling is a poor option in a nano, where you will have to be vigilant enough just to keep specific gravity constant.

Do you suggest that I do not run a powerhead in the tank. I currently am cycling the tank and have a Rio 90 in for some circualtion along with a small HOB filter. Watching the particles move around in the tank it seems to be creating a good chaotic light flow. For the light I will also get the legs to raise it above the tank some.

I was also tinkering with the idea of puting a piece of plexy glass or acrylic over the tak with holes cut for heater cords. HOB filter, and a few vent holes. I could then blow a fan at the light as well to cool the light fixture further and minimize evaporation across the surface of the tank. Would I be adding more heat though as the water is more trapped in the tank and cant evaporate?

I understand how the evaporation can drastically affect the SG of a 10g! I am currently about a week and a half into my cycling and have watched the SG fluctuate quite a bit with evaporation.

Are there any other suggestions for cooling if the system becomes to hot besides a chiller? Would it be better to posibly use less light then 96 watts. What is a good estimate for watts/gallon for a reef. Im not sure what exactly I want to get quite yet. Still planning. I understand some soft corals and mushrooms take less light..but how much is less?

mogurnda
11-12-2003, 2:54 PM
Your idea for using a larger fan to move heat away sounds good. The little rio pump is fine, but I know of a lot of people who just use a HOB filter for circulation and turbulence in a tank that small.

The 96 watt fixture is overkill if all you want is softies and mushrooms. However, I have never done a tank as small as yours. Have you looked into nano-reef.com (http://www.nano-reef.com/)? There's a ton of info there.

liquafaction
11-12-2003, 3:27 PM
My P.C. lighting gets almost twice as hot as my VHO's. I think a lot of it has to do with ballast placement. I am going to tear down my P.C. lighting, and make the ballast remote. The bulbs do not seem to get that hot. Just my opinion.

reefpicker
11-12-2003, 8:40 PM
Hi,

Interesting point Liquifaction... If the ballast is not electronic they can get hot...


I am glad to hear someone talk about actually having used the IceProbe.... Ever since I saw it first I have often wondered if it would work... I guess I have a better idea.



I understand how the evaporation can drastically affect the SG of a 10g! I am currently about a week and a half into my cycling and have watched the SG fluctuate quite a bit with evaporation.

This is what I have done before.... (and btw, the shape of the tank is more important than the volume in terms of evaporation rate)

You can use Kent AquaDoser or you can make up a similar device (use an air valve, air tubing, a jar etc)... Place freshwater in it and hang it around the tank (you can hide it behind a wall or something)... It is tricky to estimate the actual drip rate but once you have it working you can forget about topping off the tank for a couple of days....

Well only a couple of days... but at least the salinity stays constant...

slipknottin
11-12-2003, 10:16 PM
electronic ballasts can get dang hot too!


In general, the smaller diamter the bulb, the more efficient the bulb will be, but the higher the operating temperature.

Meaning T5 bulbs are the most efficient, but have the highest operating temp. CF bulbs (T6s) are next in efficiency and operating temp. Followed by NO and HO T8 fluorescent bulbs, and then finally the VHO T12 bulbs.

mogurnda
11-13-2003, 9:05 AM
the shape of the tank is more important than the volume in terms of evaporation rate Yep, you're right, it's the surface/volume ratio.

I started using the Kent Aquadoser a few weeks ago, because I am leaving town for a week and wanted to get the drip rate right. Using saturated kalkwasser, it has been great for keeping the specific gravity and calcium steady. One can probably do the same thing with a carboy and an IV, but I didn't feel like messing with it.

Wazzucycler
11-13-2003, 12:02 PM
Thanks for the ideas, I never really thought about using a drip unit, and Ive got one right next to my tank, hooked up to my Green Anole tank to give them a few water droplets a minute!

Jeff