Planning stage 90 gallon reef...

[Cearbhaill]

Ok- here I go into reefing....

I have a spare (not drilled) 90 gallon tank that I would like to set up as a reef system.
I know you will want to know what I would like to keep before answering questions, but the simple fact is "I don't know yet".
I will be starting off with a "package" from Tampa Bay Saltwater, and plan to let that settle in as I study up on what else I can add. I would like a few fish eventually, but am in no hurry. I would prefer captive bred species.

I will be able to give it 3.3 watts per gallon initially- 220w of power compacts and 80w NO actinic.
I have no problem upgrading my lighting down the road, but this is what I already have on hand to start with. I think it should be sufficient for at least the first six months or so, or at least until I begin adding corals.

I am planning a Remora Pro skimmer (Mag drive pump) with surface extractor. The tank is not drilled, nor do I want to drill it. This should be sufficient?

I will be purchasing a RO/DI unit, and would like a brand recommendation as well as suggested GPH. I would like to be able to fill a 30 gallon reservoir in a reasonable period of time, and maybe make extra for drinking water. Waste water will be used in the garden.

How many and what size powerheads will I need? Do the Wavemaster units work as advertised? Are they worthwhile?

Any refractometer recommendations?
I'll need the complete Salifert test kit?

Just trying to finalize what I need to order in the way of powerheads, skimmer, test equipment, and RO/DI units. I want durable equipment that will last.

Thanks-

[mogurnda]

Congratulations! I got the package a few years ago, and it was great fun. A little stressful at first, trying to keep all the bizarre critters alive, but fun. For the first several months, you will be so busy discovering novel life forms you probably won't care to add any other fish or inverts.

Your lighting should be fine for mushrooms and many soft corals, and maybe some of the less demanding stonies as well. Just place them high in the tank.

Although the Remora pro is rated for "75+" tanks, it will probably fall short on a 90. Probably any HOB skimmer will be too small. Will that be a huge problem? Probably not. If you aren't totally against a sump, there are hang-on overflows (http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/overflows.html) that will allow you to avoid drilling.

For circulation, I am a fan of closed loop systems. Get a pump big enough to circulate the tank 10-20 times/hour, split the output to different regions of the tank, and use SeaSwirls (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=SEASWIRL1&Category_Code=Wavemaking) or a SCWD (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=SQUID-WM&Category_Code=Wavemaking) to generate surge. Keeps the heat and clutter out of the tank. If you go the powerhead route, others will certainly post with their opinions.

For test kits, any marine NH3/NO2/NO3/pH kit will get you through the small cycle that the TBS rock will go thorough. Once that's done, the only things you need to worry about are Ca and alkalinity, IMO. Although Salifert's Ca kit is good, I think the SeaChem kit has the sharpest cutoff of any of them. You will want to figure out a dosing regimen to keep Ca and alk up, but that's a little bit down the road. If you're feeding and doing occasional water changes, the other elements will generally take care of themselves, especially in a moderately stocked system.

For specific gravity, I normally use a little swinging arm hydrometer, occasionally calibrating with the refractometer (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PA&Product_Code=REFRACT-PA&Category_Code=Hydrometer) I got from Premium Aquatics. The hydrometer is off by about 0.002, but it's consistent.

Dunno anything about RO systems. I get mine from a Culligan commercial system, so I haven't experimented.

[Cearbhaill]

Thank you thank you thank you!

I'm not against a sump so much as I have an unreasonable fear of overflows. Just like my unreasonable fear of CO2 :D

These CPR jobs- can we be 100% sure that they will not truly overflow?
I'd really just about rather buy 2 HOT skimmers than risk a flood.

[slipknottin]

Originally posted by Cearbhaill

These CPR jobs- can we be 100% sure that they will not truly overflow?


no, CPRs are pretty notorious for breaking siphon. U-tube overflows are quite a bit more reliable, I know people that have been using them for over 3 years... But as with any HOB overflow, they can never be 100% reliable. Personally I would rather have the tank drilled and fitted with an overflow box..

Oh, and there are quite a bit of options for creating water movement in a tank, some of which dont require any powerheads or external pumps at all.

[Cearbhaill]

But as with any HOB overflow, they can never be 100% reliable.
Then it's no way...

How's about two HOT's?

[slipknottin]

Originally posted by Cearbhaill



How's about two HOT's?

how well skimmers work is a function of bubble size, and contact time. Two identical type/model skimmers will NOT compliment each other, as they both can only pull out the same thing. Two drastically different models such as a venturi, and an airstone skimmer would work well together.


Anyways, one HOB skimmer is fine. There are a few models that will work perfectly on your tank. Check out the Aqua C HOB line.

[Cearbhaill]

Thanks both of you- but this thread is now moot.
I bought a drilled :eek: 90g last night.

Never go into a LFS to talk yourself out of buying a tank.