Can my tank live again??

A. Nonymous

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Feb 4, 2008
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I will be honest up front. I've kind of neglected my tank. Normally during the winter I go into just cold weather maintenance mode on my tanks. Water changes become bi-weekly instead of weekly, no new fish are added and the fish are fed and nothing more.

This tank consequently has a ton of issues. It's a 75g tank inhabited by about a dozen neons and a rubber lip pleco. I'd like to add more fish for obvious reasons, but that's side issue #1 and I can't do anything about it until I deal with the other issues which are as follows.

Problem #1 The surface of the water is covered with duckweed that seems to thwart every attempt I make to remove it. I once spent about an hour to an hour and a half pulling out every shred of duckweed I could find. At the end I couldn't find any duckweed anywhere in the tank. Sadly, I missed some somewhere and the tank is now covered in duckweed again. It kills me that if you miss one piece it all comes back. Someone once suggested adding a goldfish as they will eat duckweed like candy. Problem is I have no where to put goldie afterwards. The only empty tanks I have are a 5 and a 10G. The only other tank I have that's big enough for a goldfish is a 55 currently occupied by a 6 inch Jack Dempsey who would love a goldfish as a dinner guest.

Problem #2 - the surface of the gravel is covered in spots by green scum algae. I've tried black outs, but they don't seem to work. I've tried scooping the scum out with my bare hands, but this doesn't seem to get all of it. Additionally since I used Turface for a substrate, I've got lots of detritus that has fallen into the the substrate and is difficult to remove without sucking up the substrate as well.

Problem #3 - The filter and it's media is constantly clogged with brown goop. The intake is constantly clogged with detritus that floats around the tank. I can unclog the filter, but it quickly sucks up other floating detritus. I think the only solution for this is to replace the media and flush the filter thoroughly. I'm open to other solutions.

Problem #4 - The few plants I still have alive have lots of dead leaves and holes in the leaves they have. I think this is a lack of ferts/lights. I have the former on hand, but don't know if I have the latter which brings me to problem #5....

Problem #5 - This is a 75 g tank like I mentioned earlier and I currently have a CF light on it that has two 55w bulbs. I don't think this is enough light and I'm wondering if I need to but an additional fixture? I don't know what kind of fixture I need?

I'm thinking the only real solution I have here is to temporarily re-home the fish, break the tank down completely, re-do it and re-add the fish. I can then add another light fixture, more plants, fire up my CO2 again (forgot to add that I do have a pressurized CO2 system on here) and start ferts again. Are there any other ways I can do this that don't involve so much of a headache or have I made my bed and now I have to sleep in it? I'll try to post some pics later.
 
1) keep picking out the duckweed. fish tanks are not maintenance free. if you dont like something, you have to do the work to eradicate it.

2) increase the frequency you do water changes will help, but you have to do lots of gravel vacuuming as well. another thing you can try is reducing how much you feed your fish. if you are not doing weekly maintenance, you can help your tank by cutting down the amount of nutrients you are adding to the tank. otherwise, start doing more water changes. this may also help with problem #1

3) unless the brown goop is restricting the amount of flow through your filter, leave it be. it may not be the prettiest thing, but its not necessarily a bad thing. see answer 2) for more ways to help cut this down.

4/5) you need roughly 2 watts per gallon of light to successfully grow plants. if its nutrients that you need, there are a ton of ferts that are safe for fish tanks that you can get at your aquarium store. as for the lights, a 75 g would need 150 watts of light to sustain low to medium light plants (anubias, hornwort, java fern, wisteria...the list is pretty extensive). imo the best place for lights is the hardware store. you will spend a FRACTION of the money you would at a fish place for a light that does the same thing. for example, i have a 4 foot long shop light on top of my 55 gallon that is doing wonders and it only cost me around $35 (with bulbs and tax), whereas if i bought a similar fixture from a fish place, it would run me around $300. dont do the co2 if you dont have the lights to support the growth you want from the plants.

ps: you made your bed. fish tanks are a lot of work. either do it and be happier about the end result, or quit complaining and be lazy ;)
 
Normally in the summer and when it's warmer I do weekly maintenance on all my tanks. They all get weekly water changes. This one has just spiraled out of control and I'm looking for a plan to get it back in shape now that it's warming up again.
 
just get off your tush and do the maintenance. *shrugs*
 
4/5) you need roughly 2 watts per gallon of light to successfully grow plants. if its nutrients that you need, there are a ton of ferts that are safe for fish tanks that you can get at your aquarium store. as for the lights, a 75 g would need 150 watts of light to sustain low to medium light plants (anubias, hornwort, java fern, wisteria...the list is pretty extensive). imo the best place for lights is the hardware store. you will spend a FRACTION of the money you would at a fish place for a light that does the same thing. for example, i have a 4 foot long shop light on top of my 55 gallon that is doing wonders and it only cost me around $35 (with bulbs and tax), whereas if i bought a similar fixture from a fish place, it would run me around $300. dont do the co2 if you dont have the lights to support the growth you want from the plants.
I disagree. I've kept most of those plants with less than 1 wpg on my 30...however tank depth does come into play slightly. But I don't think 2wpg is a necessity, and with that lighting on that size tank, pressurized Co2 would be borderline recommended IMO. Otherwise the OP would be dealing with more algae issues. Watts per gallon is far overrated, and I think nutrient deficiencies should be targeted first based on the OP's desciption.

And lighting should always be a limiting factor, but most people think more light = better plant growth automatically. Truth is, a lot of new planted tanks lack the Co2 (and sometimes the nutrients) needed for plants to grow. I say go with Co2 BEFORE upgrading lights and see if it makes a difference. Again, with this size tank DIY isn't a good option, so it may be costly to go pressurized. But in the long run most people say it is worth it. Excel is another carbon source, but it will be more expensive to dose regularly. If you stay with the lighting you have, you could pull it off without any Co2, but I still wouldn't increase the lighting without thinking about Co2. Depends a lot on the plants you want too.
 
No pics unfortunately. I came home to a sink that would not stop running and two dogs who didn't want to come in out of the rain and then wanted to track mud all over the house. Good times.

As far as maintenance I have been doing a 10-15% water change every other week, but haven't been doing anything with the ferts I have or the pressurized CO2 I have. All I want is a lush green tank, but I'm very confused and it seems I get 15 different opinions from 10 different people on here sometimes. :) Once I get the tank cleaned up do I need to add another light, turn on the CO2 and start fertilzing again? Is the missing part of my equation more light? More plants to compete with the algae?
 
Hmm.. I don't think there is a fast fix for this one. I would get rid of the substrate you have and put something else (gravel?). Also the "green scum algae" is probably due to lack of water circulation and low nutrient levels. I would cleen it up good, whater changes, whater changes, whater changes, and maybe add a little bit of ferts (maybe a couple weeks later depending on the plants and the load). If you notice your ph rise by the end of light cycle, then add some CO2 to stabilize. Otherwise, you can leave it off. I don't know what else to say here...good luck! :)

Yeah, don't steralize or you have to cycle it over. Unless of cause you want to start over....
 
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Just curious... why do you change your tank maintenance in the winter? Sounds like it causes more problems than it's worth.

Good luck getting things back in shape!

Mainly 'cuz it's cold outside therefore it's cold inside (I'm too cheap to heat my house properly) and being wet and cold is not fun for me. The other thing is I'm kind of trying to simulate seasons for the fish so the water quality improves during the spring when spring rains bring in new water. Also, I really have no really good reason to do it it's just what I've always done for some reason. I'm not even sure how it started in the first place.

I think if I put the fish somewhere else temporarily and remove the plants I do have and the rocks and driftwood I can clean out all the duckweed and the scum algae. I can also put cheesecloth over the intake of my python and suck up all the detritus that's probably causing nutrient problems. Where do I go from there though? I got the turface as several people on here told me it was a great substrate for a planted tank which is what I was wanting. Do I need to add another CF light?
 
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