Any Tips on Resealing a Tank?

[andyjh]

In my "Decent Deal" post:
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186303
I did buy the 33 flat back hex., but I'll want to reseal it prior to use. Is it best to scrape off as much silicone as possible out of the joints? Also, does silicone stick well to silicone?....so I can redo it in sections, such as around the bottom first, let that dry and then work up some of the side seams. Any tips greatly appreciated.
Andy

[circuits]

i would definately get as much of the old silicone off. IME with car silicone, it does not seal well on top of old silicone.

i would start with thebottom like you said, carefully using a razor to get the old stuff off. then lay a thin bead down. the final step is to wet your finger and run it along the bead you just layed down, flattening it and sealing it.

i know it sounds like a lot of work, but you will be glad when your tank doesnt leak all over the floor

[krytan]

Remove ALL of the silicone from the inside of the tank leaving the panes of glass stuck together, then wash it out with white vinegar to remove any residue of the silicone. Let the tank dry out then reseal with 100% pure silicone, reseal the whole tank in one go.

Edit: i forgot to say to wait a week for the silicone to cure before water testing the tank.

[andyjh]

Remove ALL of the silicone from the inside of the tank leaving the panes of glass stuck together, then wash it out with white vinegar to remove any residue of the silicone. Let the tank dry out then reseal with 100% pure silicone, reseal the whole tank in one go.


So I don't want to pull out the silicone "between" the panes. (I can feel some silicone where the angled "hex" panels meet. I just want to pull out the "surface" silicone behind the panes and reseal those. Do I have that right?

[krytan]

So I don't want to pull out the silicone "between" the panes. (I can feel some silicone where the angled "hex" panels meet. I just want to pull out the "surface" silicone behind the panes and reseal those. Do I have that right?
Yes, leave the silicone between the panes of glass there.

[krytan]

Here's a link (http://www.freshwatermadness.com/diy-f12/resealing-a-40g-tank-t464.htm) to a tank i resealed recently.

[fishorama]

It's a lot of bother but I tape off the seams ~1/8-1/4 inch away, otherwise I'm apt to have messy lines. If you do, remove the masking tape after smoothing the silicone before it dries.

[andyjh]

That's a great tip. I'm a great fan of "blue masking tape" for my interior paint projects. I wish silicone dried a little slower.

[krytan]

I wish silicone dried a little slower.
Lol, i'm going to reseal my 180g soon and was thinking the same thing.

[McLendon]

Make sure to use food grade silicone or silicone marked for use with fish tanks

[andyjh]

So far so good. I've scraped away the old silicone and will now be working on removing any residue. I realize that along the bottom of the tank (which will be covered by gravel) the new silicone thickness won't matter too much as it won't be visible. My concern is where the "hex" sections meet up front. (it's a flat back hex). I don't want to overdo the thickness of the bead on these vertical seams. Would a 1/4" bead be adequate, or should I go a little thicker?
Thanks,
Andy

[247Plants]

I taped off the seams and used a credit card with the corner cut to make a smooth perfect bead. I dont have pics, but I did this to my 180.

[Temptress]

I am going to reseal my 55gal tank before I load it back up, how much of this silicone would I need? I found it in 10.1oz tube (like a caulk tube) would I need more than that?

[fishorama]

1 tube should be enough