High Ammonia and cloudy water

[mnosulli]

Have new 20 gal tank setup for 6 weeks.Have 17 fish (tetars,platies,danios) in tank for last 4 weeks. In last 2 weeks my ammonia levels have gone thru the roof. Have added ammo lock with each water change - Initially did 60% water change. Then did about 20% change 3 times in last 10 days. Have sponge corner filter.Have added ammo chips to top sponge but levels still high. Also , in last week the water has become cloudy with a kind of scum on it. No fish have died - yet! My ph is abput 6.8-7, my nitrate levels are high /according to color chart). Any suggestions.

[cblin]

Stop using all the chemicals to try to bring down ammonia and instead do 25% water changes (every two days). You've added too many fish at once. Stop feeding your fish for a few days.

[mnosulli]

cblin - should I remove the ammo chips ?

[JSchmidt]

I see a couple problems... this tank is overstocked and not cycled. I wonder whether your filter is up to the task, too. Any chance of getting something with a bit more oooomph... maybe an Aquaclear or Penguin filter?

Your best defense against the high ammonia levels is changing water. You should change enough water to keep ammonia at or below 1.5 ppm. If that's 25% daily, then change that amount. If it's 50% daily, do that. Changing some arbitrary amount may or may not be enough; let ammonia tests guide your water changes.

AmmoLock and similar products will give false readings on most ammonia tests. I'd recommend getting a simple chlorine or chloramine remover and using it. AmmoLock is good for emergencies, but it gives you a false sense of security. You may be able to protect fish from the ammonia with AmmoLock, but that won't help with nitrites. Water changes are cheaper and probably healthier for the fish.

Good luck,
Jim

[cblin]

Originally posted by mnosulli
cblin - should I remove the ammo chips ?

If you've already invested a lot of money in ammochips, keep them in there for a few days before removing them.
Ammochips are a waste of money. Do they work? Probably. However, you can accomplish your task of lowering ammonia and nitrite spending a lot less money.

Another thing you can do, if you can find a trustworthy fish store in your area, would be to buy the water from their plant tank.
Many stores don't sell their water from the plant display tanks. However, they might let you have a few gallons for a few bucks and in some cases for free. So why would one want water from a plant tank? I've always seen a few fish in plant holding tanks. The water from the plant tank has less bioload, it will contain some of the beneficial bacteria that you'd need to lower your ammonia and nitrite.

[ewok]

Originally posted by cblin
Another thing you can do, if you can find a trustworthy fish store in your area, would be to buy the water from their plant tank.
Many stores don't sell their water from the plant display tanks. However, they might let you have a few gallons for a few bucks and in some cases for free. So why would one want water from a plant tank? I've always seen a few fish in plant holding tanks. The water from the plant tank has less bioload, it will contain some of the beneficial bacteria that you'd need to lower your ammonia and nitrite.

:shake: i can't post an adequate reply to this, it would get censored or i would get in trouble, the word starts with a B tho..... ;) the bacteria aren't floating in the water column, they are adhered to surfaces. you would be better off buying the plants than the water, but that will just complicate the cycling process........

moving on........

mnosulli

i don't know how you're loading zeolite (ammo chips)into a sponge filter, but it can't be good. removing it would be the best advice.

your nitrIte or nitrAte levels are high?

i pretty much agree with JSchmidt, his advice is decent. i would look into getting some sort of HOB (hang on back) filter and do a large water change to get the ammonia levels down. then proceed like he said, doing enuf water changing to keep the ammonia levels low. skip trying to control things with chemicals, it won't work. you will want to add a little salt to help your fish with the nitrItes when they come tho.

in this hobby, water quality is everything, and you won't get good water quality by loading the tank with chemicals.....

[cblin]

Ewok,

I guess most of the bacteria is on surface. But I'm willing to bet there's some in the water. :)

[aquariumfishguy]

i can't post an adequate reply to this, it would get censored or i would get in trouble, the word starts with a B tho.....

Ewok, that wasn't very nice....:(

[Prometheus]

Originally posted by cblin
Ewok,

I guess most of the bacteria is on surface. But I'm willing to bet there's some in the water. :)

Very little, unfortunately :(

Definately figure out which is your problem (amonia, nitrite or nitrate ). Sounds like it'll be 2 of the three.

HOB with a bio-wheel (gonna take it a bit to get it up to speed), should help you out alot a penguin 170 should do you.

As said do the water changes. Daily if need be (which I think it probably is).

Bio-spira will save you a world of grief over night. 10 bucks for a 1 oz. dose will turn your ammonia and nitrite to ZERO in 24 hours.

Then keep a close eye on your nitrates. Once the bio-spira is in (remove any chemical things like ammo-lok ect. from the tank, a little carbon shouldn't hurt anything) no more water changes for 48 hours -atleast- and only to keep your nitrates under 80ppm for the next week or two (your penguin 170 from bigals.com -or where ever- should be be running for about a week by then) then start to slowly bring your nitrates back to 20 ppm.

Ultimately you'll have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, 20ppm (or less) in your tank.

IMO, since the tank is completely overwhelmed by the bio-load, water changes will only keep you treading water. It could be atleast a month before you see real progress. The bio-spira will atleast remove the ammonia and nitrites from the equation overnight (litterally).

edited for more than usual confusing run-ons and type-o's