My first attempt to diffuse my DIY CO2 was a glass diffuser. It broke putting it in.:swear: I said screw it I can make one way better for almost the same price. It ended out being about $40 but oh well I like it.
So this is what you will need.
Bundle of 1/2" tubing, I think I used about 6'
4 1/2" clamps
Desired length of 1 1/2" PVC
1 Powerhead (mine is a 160GPH)
2 3/4" threaded side to 1/2" hose barb fitting
1 1/2" threaded side to 1/2 hose barb fitting (this is for the intake of the powerhead so if your's is different get different, bring it in with you)
2 PVC end peices with 3/4" threads in them
1 1 1/2" PVC coupler
1 box of Bio-filter balls (or whatever you want to diffuse)
1 can of PVC Cement
1 thing of puddy tape (not in picture, the stuff to seal threads)
1 male threaded 1 1/2" coupler
1 female threaded 1 1/2" coupler
Powerhead is whatever cheap you can get, I paid $10 all the PVC and pipes were about $20 and the bioballs were about $10 but I only used half.
Put the threaded 3/4" barbs in the threaded end caps, use plumbers tape
Put coupler on one end of PVC tube
Put one of the threaded end caps with hose fitting into the PVC coupler
Put female threaded coupler on end of other side
Twist male threaded coupler into female threaded coupler
Put the other threaded end cap into this end
After you attach the hoses on each end this is what it should look like.
Put the fitting on the intake of the powerhead use plumbing tape on threads
Run your CO2 line into the outlet of the powerhead (where you would normally put a air line)
Now attach the hose to the outlet of the powerhead, remember the clamp.
Attach hose to the intake of the Powerhead, remember the clamp.
The hose on the outlet of the powerhead goes onto one side of the PVC tube so it can be very short. Don't forget the last clamp on the PVC side.
Fill the tube with I would guess 75% of the way with the bioballs, I picked these because off all the little cuts, it really cuts up the bubbles.
Then I ran hose (don't forget clamp) from the back side of the PVC into the tank, I found having it sitting right above the water works best when under the water the pressure was so high the CO2 couldn't get past the backflow valve of my co2 system.
I cut up the screen that came with the powerhead and stuck it in the intake tube so you don't suck up any large objects to hurt the motor.
Fill the PVC with a bunch of water to help prime the system, then fill the intake tube of the system with as much water as possible to prime the motor. I have the intake zip tied to the intake tube of the HOB filter, and the outlet tube is on the opposite side and I was able to zip tie it to the cover of the tank.
Start it up and check for leaks. I can't even see bubbles on mine but I can tell it's working because my PH dropped like a charm.
As always I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or flood your house. This is a at your own risk type thing like all DIY's. you mess it up it's your fault.
So this is what you will need.
Bundle of 1/2" tubing, I think I used about 6'
4 1/2" clamps
Desired length of 1 1/2" PVC
1 Powerhead (mine is a 160GPH)
2 3/4" threaded side to 1/2" hose barb fitting
1 1/2" threaded side to 1/2 hose barb fitting (this is for the intake of the powerhead so if your's is different get different, bring it in with you)
2 PVC end peices with 3/4" threads in them
1 1 1/2" PVC coupler
1 box of Bio-filter balls (or whatever you want to diffuse)
1 can of PVC Cement
1 thing of puddy tape (not in picture, the stuff to seal threads)
1 male threaded 1 1/2" coupler
1 female threaded 1 1/2" coupler
Powerhead is whatever cheap you can get, I paid $10 all the PVC and pipes were about $20 and the bioballs were about $10 but I only used half.
Put the threaded 3/4" barbs in the threaded end caps, use plumbers tape
Put coupler on one end of PVC tube
Put one of the threaded end caps with hose fitting into the PVC coupler
Put female threaded coupler on end of other side
Twist male threaded coupler into female threaded coupler
Put the other threaded end cap into this end
After you attach the hoses on each end this is what it should look like.
Put the fitting on the intake of the powerhead use plumbing tape on threads
Run your CO2 line into the outlet of the powerhead (where you would normally put a air line)
Now attach the hose to the outlet of the powerhead, remember the clamp.
Attach hose to the intake of the Powerhead, remember the clamp.
The hose on the outlet of the powerhead goes onto one side of the PVC tube so it can be very short. Don't forget the last clamp on the PVC side.
Fill the tube with I would guess 75% of the way with the bioballs, I picked these because off all the little cuts, it really cuts up the bubbles.
Then I ran hose (don't forget clamp) from the back side of the PVC into the tank, I found having it sitting right above the water works best when under the water the pressure was so high the CO2 couldn't get past the backflow valve of my co2 system.
I cut up the screen that came with the powerhead and stuck it in the intake tube so you don't suck up any large objects to hurt the motor.
Fill the PVC with a bunch of water to help prime the system, then fill the intake tube of the system with as much water as possible to prime the motor. I have the intake zip tied to the intake tube of the HOB filter, and the outlet tube is on the opposite side and I was able to zip tie it to the cover of the tank.
Start it up and check for leaks. I can't even see bubbles on mine but I can tell it's working because my PH dropped like a charm.
As always I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or flood your house. This is a at your own risk type thing like all DIY's. you mess it up it's your fault.
