Planning to dig a pond...Tons of questions

A. Nonymous

A. Nonymous

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Feb 4, 2008
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First of all, this pond probably won't go in until next year sometime. I don't have the money right now, I'm just in the planning phase, but I've a bajillion question and will probably pester people on here so I apologize in advance.

Questions:

1. I plan on making the pond about 10-15 ft in diameter. I'll probably dig it myself and use a pond liner in it rather than buy a pre-formed pond. How deep do I need to make it so the fish can safely winter there? The pond will freeze in our climate. What other things do I have to be aware of with it freezing?

2. I assume a pond needs a filter just like a tank does? Or if it's big enough it doesn't need one at all?

3. How do you change the water in a pond? Or do you change it at all? That's a lot of water and I'm guessing a python probably ain't gonna cut it.

4. I've got dogs in my backyard where the pond will be. What's the best way to keep them and other critters out? If they drink the water is it dangerous?

5. I've thought of using stone on the bottom of the pond and around the edges to hold the liner in place. I think this would make the water a lot clearer, but I'm afraid of dirt, debris and detritus falling in the cracks and being impossible to get out. Your thoughts?


I'm sure I'll have a ton of other questions once I start getting responses. I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I put the shovel in the ground for the first time.
 
1. In USDA Zone 4, which is Minnesota, a pond only needs to be 24" deep to succcessfully overwinter Koi and Goldfish. The main boudy of my pond is 24-26" deep. The ends slope down to about 30" in one end and 32" on the other. In the winter, the only thing you need to worry about is not letting the pond completely freeze over. Keeping a small hole in the ice is easy as a powerhead (or any old pump) placed slightly lower than the water level. Cow through heaters work, but they rank third on my list. Or run the pond year round. This only works if the waterfall doesn't splash a lot. The constant splashing of water can build up ice dams that can potentially cause the pump to burn out.

2. For a pond to not need a filter, gallonage would be up around 20K+. Anything smaller will really benefit from filtration. A bog, Bio-tower/falls, and many DIY options work great.

3. I don't do water changes, some do. A water change in the spring is really the only time that one would be needed provided the pond has enough filtration and plants. Spring time is good for partial draining of the pond and hosing off any debris that collects behind boulders and gravel. Again, not neccessary, but will help remove organic debris (if excessive) that collects during the fall/winter and early spring.

4. Water should be clean enough for the dogs. My older lab/pit took a swim when I first installed the pond. She loves water, so it was only a matter of time. She soon learned I was not happy about that. Our newer puppy, now a year, uses the pond as her primary water source. She can't swim since she is part French Bulldog. Luckily we haven't had any attempts yet.

5. Debris does collect in between rocks. Plenty of areation will help the BB naturally break things down. I use an old Rio 2100 to blow crap out from behinds rocks and boulders if I see any acclmation, which is maybe a couple of times a season. That is only done in some dead spots that don't get a ton of flow.

Your on the right track and ask a lot of questions. The planning stages will be make or break for a successful pond.
 
Muske said:
1. In USDA Zone 4, which is Minnesota, a pond only needs to be 24" deep to succcessfully overwinter Koi and Goldfish. The main boudy of my pond is 24-26" deep. The ends slope down to about 30" in one end and 32" on the other. In the winter, the only thing you need to worry about is not letting the pond completely freeze over. Keeping a small hole in the ice is easy as a powerhead (or any old pump) placed slightly lower than the water level. Cow through heaters work, but they rank third on my list. Or run the pond year round. This only works if the waterfall doesn't splash a lot. The constant splashing of water can build up ice dams that can potentially cause the pump to burn out.

2. For a pond to not need a filter, gallonage would be up around 20K+. Anything smaller will really benefit from filtration. A bog, Bio-tower/falls, and many DIY options work great.

3. I don't do water changes, some do. A water change in the spring is really the only time that one would be needed provided the pond has enough filtration and plants. Spring time is good for partial draining of the pond and hosing off any debris that collects behind boulders and gravel. Again, not neccessary, but will help remove organic debris (if excessive) that collects during the fall/winter and early spring.

4. Water should be clean enough for the dogs. My older lab/pit took a swim when I first installed the pond. She loves water, so it was only a matter of time. She soon learned I was not happy about that. Our newer puppy, now a year, uses the pond as her primary water source. She can't swim since she is part French Bulldog. Luckily we haven't had any attempts yet.

5. Debris does collect in between rocks. Plenty of areation will help the BB naturally break things down. I use an old Rio 2100 to blow crap out from behinds rocks and boulders if I see any acclmation, which is maybe a couple of times a season. That is only done in some dead spots that don't get a ton of flow.

Your on the right track and ask a lot of questions. The planning stages will be make or break for a successful pond.
Click to expand...

I really appreciate the response. I'm in Wichita, KS so I have no clue which zone that puts me in. I was planning on going 3-4 feet deep anyway. So now, I have questions about some of your responses.

1. So for winter, you turn off all waterfalls, fountains, etc? Is that correct? And how often do you feed the fish during the winter? Or not at all?

2. How can I estimate the gallonage of my pond?

4. Is there any particular method you used to train the dogs to stay out of the pond?

5. So flow around the bottom isn't really an issue generally is that correct? As long as I keep the pond aerated, I'm good?
 
1. 3-4 feet is great. It will depend on the soil if you want to go that deep.

2. No food once the water temp. gets to be 40 deg. From 55 deg. and down to 40, use a wheat grem based food that is easier to digest w/colder temps. Fountains should be turned off. Waterfalls, if they don't splash to much can be run year round. I run my pond 365 and just tweak the lip on my falls so it creates a nice flat flow over the top of the filter. It freezes, but it does not divert water out of the pond.

3. Length x width x average depth x 7.5 will give you a good idea.

4. If you go 4' you will want some flow in the bottom depths. As leaves and organic debris sinks to the bottom, the BB that helps break it down will do a better, more effecient job with plenty of oxygen in the water.
 
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