PDA

View Full Version : Need help with 29g reef!



AC2020x
09-30-2009, 9:32 PM
Hey, about 8 or 9 months ago now I started up my first 29g SW tank not knowing too much about SW or especially about reef. Now I know a little bit more and I think I'm ready to change my tank from fish only into a reef. But i'm still not too sure on everything I need to do?

Right now I have some eagle eye and star polyps in my tank which seem to do fine. However I tried a couple other corals and they didn't do well and just died on me. (including a peice of montipora digatona and about half of my star polyps, the other half seem fine!) -

These are the lights I have on the tank- http://www.aquacave.com/current-usa-30-nova-br-extreme-t-5-fixture-br-2x24w-10k460nm-1137-2369.html I know they are not that great and will greatly limit what I can put in the tank but at this point i'm not looking to upgrade them (maybe in the future)

Heres my paramaters:
Ammonia and Nitrite:0- very low
Nitrate: 25 a little high
DKH:7
Phosphate: 2
Calcium:340
SG: 1.023
PH:8.3
Temp: 80

I recently got a RO/DI unit and have begun doing water changes with it. I no doubt need to do more water changes more frequently.

The phosphate issue is obviously probably the main reason I have so much hair algae and it is going to become a problem real soon if something is not done. Other than water changes does anyone have any other ideas of how to bring down my Phosphates?

What types of beginner corals would you guys suggest other than the polyps that would work well with my set up? For these corals is there anything like supplements I need to get? I've heard things like Coral Frenzy and Kent additives like Reef Nutrition work well? Would you suggest these? Anything else?

Also any ideas to get rid of hair algae problem or removing phosphates is helpful as well!

My current stock are 2 misbar clowns, a firefish, and lawnmower blenny which I will move once he gets larger. Also some snails and hermits.

For you experienced reef keepers- If you were in this situation- what would you do?

Thanks alot and any ideas or opinions are greatly appreciated!
-AC

Ace25
09-30-2009, 10:14 PM
Phosphate at 2 would definately cause those problems as well as explain your hair algae outbreak. You want it .02 ideally, .1 is considered bad for SPS tanks, 1.0 is considered bad for any type of reef tank. Pull out the hair algae by hand or with tweezers. I do it almost daily in my tank lately.. I did a dumb mistake and used AlgaeFix for marine tanks and it killed off my chaeto in my fuge but didn't kill the algae in the tank, then with the chaeto gone the hair algae took off. Now I have the chaeto replaced and have been pulling out hair algae for almost a month straight now. Almost at the end of it myself this round.

FindingBlemo
09-30-2009, 10:17 PM
God, I hate that stuff! But Ace25 is right, I got rid of mine when my phosphate went below .4, but it's different for every tank. One time, it touched less than .01, I was thrilled until I found out that it was dangerously low.

AC2020x
09-30-2009, 10:23 PM
alright i'll try to get on that asap, I've kind of been neglecting this tank at the gain of my 125g and getting that set-up. I would like to turn this into a relatively coolish reef with a few low-med light corals once I get things more under control.

Ken b
10-06-2009, 5:05 AM
In my opinion this is what I would do:

My first move would be to remove the cannister filter. Any mechanical filtration in a reef tank is a no-no.The trapped debris releases ntrate and phosphates which fuel hair algae growth and retard coraline growth.

Phosphate is mainly exported from the water via protien skimming. If your skimmer is not adequate you'll need to upgrade. Which skimmer are you currently using?

Keep in mind the use of a phosphate removal pad is only treating a symptom not the cause. Like Ace found out about his use of Algae fix. Eliminating the source is key.

Secondly Keeping the calcium levels at about 420ppm and an alkalinity of about 11dkh will help the coraline algae grow.

Once phosphate and nitrate levels are down the coraline will take off.

Thirdly you need to at least double or triple your lighting. A general rule of thumb is to be as close to 10 watts per gallon as possible. With you current lighting your scratching 2wpg. You may want to consider a single inexpensive 175 watt metal halide pendant and replace your current bulbs with actinic blues for supplementals. This would get you real close to the 10wpg.

Taken care of in this order and your tank will be rockin and you'll be able to keep just about any coral.

hope this helps

AC2020x
10-09-2009, 5:08 PM
OK, cool my skimmer is a hang on bak pak 2- nothing amazing but It does an alright job. I have a couple of questions-
1. Are there a light you would suggest.- any links or price range that I should look for would be good!
2. by the 2 acitinic blue bulbs do you mean to go into the current light I have? - Any links on bulbs that would work?
3. What are your thoughts about adding keeping cal and alk stable? Is B-Ionic good-i've heard people say it is - http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?&vendor=&idProduct=EV1111&child=EV1111&tab=4&size=32%20oz.%20%282%20x%2016%20oz.%29
4. I currntly have instant ocean salt mix- would you suggest switching to some type of reef salt mix or is it no big deal?

I got rid of almost all the hair algae and have been doing more water changes so I should be able to get the phosphates and nitrates down.

And I guess I will remove my filter from the back.

Thanks
-AC

Ken b
10-09-2009, 11:11 PM
Have you removed the can nister filter. Mechanical filtration is the biggest cause of high nitrate and phosphate in a reef tank. Breaking down trapped food ,fish waste and other oganic biproducts in the filter sponge,floss etc.,raise ntrate and phosphate levels10 times faster than if it is left to break down slowly and allowing the skimmer to remove it.

The Ca and alk are on the low side as well. Calcium shlould be at about 420 and alk should be at 10-11 dkh. Coaraline algae and other calcifying organisms will not grow in the presence of nitrate and phosphate.

As I stated before a 175 watt metal halide can be had inexpesively if you buy used from the used equipment forum on this site or others. A 10k bulbb is what I reccomend Then replace the lamps in your current fixture with super actinic blues.. This is a proven lighting scheme that will get you corals growing like weeds once your water parameters are up to snuff. Your montipora most likely died of few things combined.

#1. Lack of lighting intensity,bulb usually should be replaced yearly because loss of intensity and spectral shift

#2. High phosphates and nitrates

#3. Low Ca and alk levels

I would not add any more coral until this list of items are addressed.

debaric
10-09-2009, 11:41 PM
btw, I found a 150 watt double ended HQI hanging pendant on reefcentral. I gave the guy 100 bucks for it and it is over my 29g. something like that is perfect for a 29. if you get a MH get a phoenix 14k bulb, they look incredible!

AC2020x
10-09-2009, 11:56 PM
so would that be something that you hang over your tank? Is something like this what I am looking for? http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1712684 ????

Though 250w is a little too much i'm guessing- so I'm gonna look for something else!

you said to get a get a phoenix 14k bulb- can you replace the bulbs in any fixture as long as it's the same wattage???

Ken b
10-10-2009, 3:07 AM
175 watts is what you want. There are pendants tha hang over the tank. 14 k ia a great color.

Also try a reef salt mix like Tropic Marin,Red sea, or Reef Crystals. All these mixes have enriched calcium levels. Instant ocean is mainly intended for fish only applications

AC2020x
10-10-2009, 9:20 AM
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1709623
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1719535

These are two things I found, neither is 175 but I think these+my other lights should be all right. I'm not really looking to keep many exstreamly high light corals.- More med-high. probably mostly softies. DO either of these lights look good?

AC2020x
10-10-2009, 3:17 PM
any1?

AC2020x
10-10-2009, 3:26 PM
This is another light also that i'm considering- http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=15489

Which do you think would work the best?

debaric
10-10-2009, 7:41 PM
the vipers are cool but I hear they dont reflect light as well as a pendant.. you will be fine with 150 watts but the other guy is right, 175 watts will allow you even more ability in the future to keep SPS coral. Like I said Phoenix 14k's look hot but thats because I like my tank to be more on the blue side and those lamps are known to be more blue than other 14ks and they have a great PAR rating. Remember your wattage has to match the wattage on the ballast. No exceptions.

Here is the lamp that I bought off a guy on reefcen..

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1685287

Do you need the light right away? If not just go on the reef forums every day- someone will end up selling a MH pendant and you will get a killer deal. You could also go 250 watts, but youd have to watch your heat and you will be going through a lot of electricity. the upside for getting a 250 is you will be able to use it on a bigger tank when you eventually upgrade.

Good luck man, since we both have 29's and are starting off maybe we can trade secrets (and corals) down the line.

AC2020x
10-10-2009, 8:13 PM
Nice, but do you have a reg 29? or a cube? I feel a little iffy about getting a something like this since my tank is 30" long? Will a pendant be large enough to light the whole tank or only a small part?

debaric
10-10-2009, 8:46 PM
I have a regular 29- 30X12X18 same as yours. A pendant will light the whole tank but 4 inches on each side will get less light which is good for less light demanding corals. Youll be fine with the pendant.

Ken b
10-10-2009, 9:58 PM
You'd better get that phosphate and nitrate under control before adding more light. If you don't it will be just like turning up the volume switch on your algae problem.

AC2020x
10-10-2009, 11:25 PM
Will do, I've started a much more under control water change cycle and will be switching to a better reef salt sometime soonish. I'm still not sure if I want to add a metal halide pendant or just try to find a new light fixture all together, but i'll see what I come across over the next couple months.

AC2020x
10-12-2009, 9:26 AM
Obviously i'm new to lighting and reef tanks. Is all you need for lighting, a pendant, ballast and bulb? If so this guy is selling a ballast
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1720311

And another guy is selling a a 175 watt hamilton ballast w 14k hamilton bulb. Is there anything else I need or should make sure this stuff comes with?

Thanks alot!

AC2020x
10-21-2009, 11:31 PM
Well, I've still got a farish way to go but i'm headed on the right track at least as far as I can tell. I'm yet to upgrade my light but i'm still planning to get a 175w ballast setup. The only thing i'm still pretty confused about it hanging the light.- As of tonight here's the params of the tank.

Amm: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: around 18ish- not amazing but could be worse
PH: 8.4
SG: 1.023-I think my refractometer is acting a little weird.
Temp: 78- Should I bring it up a little?
Calcium: 380- has moved up a bit
DKH: 9-10 also moved up a bit
Phosphates around .8- way down from around 2 last time I tested!
MG: about 1110- I don't know really how bad that is- I know I want it up a little higher but how bad is that?

I have also switched over to a good salt mix- The oceanic one. So that should help alot in the months to come!

Hopefully i'm headed in the right direction with everything!