Would this be Overkill

[Mrssacevedo]

I have a spare 48" standard light strip laying around. I was thinking of getting 2X36 watts kits from AhSupply and installing two actinic bulbs in it and laying it next to my currently lighting. My current lighting is a 48" light strip with 2X55watts from AhSupply that has two 55w 65000k bulbs.

I was thinking of doing this becaue I would like to get more plants in the brighter light spectrum. What do you think? In Either case I would just install two 36w bulbs in the fixture, giving me an overall of 182w over a 55gallon tank making it 3.3w per gallon. And no there is no co2 but there will be when I get this done. Tell me what you think.

[Mrssacevedo]

Anybody? No comments, thoughts or suggestions?

[tanker]

Why do you want actinics?? No use in a planted tank.

[theredchaser]

I agree with tanker. The actinic bulbs would have different kelvin rating, i.e. wavelength of light than what the plants can use. The chlorophyll in aquatic plants usually have two wavelength peaks in maximum efficiency, both of which are not supplied by the actinic. The more the bulbs are off the ideal ratings, the less the plant can utilize the light. Even if you bought XX watts, your plants won't be using all of it to their benefit.

[Blown 346]

I agree, Actinics are great for saltwater. For freshwater use the only thing you will get out of it is more coloration out of your fish.

[DoctaQ]

if you want a bluer look go for 10k s they will still provide some useful light for the plants but are much bluer than 6.5k

[Mrssacevedo]

Why do you want actinics?? No use in a planted tank.


I agree with tanker. The actinic bulbs would have different kelvin rating, i.e. wavelength of light than what the plants can use. The chlorophyll in aquatic plants usually have two wavelength peaks in maximum efficiency, both of which are not supplied by the actinic. The more the bulbs are off the ideal ratings, the less the plant can utilize the light. Even if you bought XX watts, your plants won't be using all of it to their benefit.


I agree, Actinics are great for saltwater. For freshwater use the only thing you will get out of it is more coloration out of your fish.
The reason I was thinking of Actinics is because I read that it would give more color to the plants. If it doesn't help in freshwater aquariums then I will not get it. I want my Repens, or any colored plant, to have the brightness they need to become red. The wattage and kelvin spectrum I currently have, 2X55watts at 6500K, they are not as red. When I had them in my 10g under 30watts(2X15watts spiral daylight bulbs) they were much redder than they are now. What would your suggestion be for me to get them as red as they were in my 10g?


if you want a bluer look go for 10k s they will still provide some useful light for the plants but are much bluer than 6.5k
I want to give my colored plants(repens) what they need to be the riches color they can be. With the 2X55watts from AhSupply I can only go as high as 2X65watt bulbs. Giving me a 2.4 watts per gallon. If I up the wattage will that give me the results I want?

As stated before the extra lighting will not be installed until I have a CO2 system running on this tank. I'm doing my homework now so I can have everything I need when I ready. Thank you all for all your help. Would I get the results I want if I go with 2X65w 10k bulbs, flourish and CO2?

[stratusfearrr]

you should. the red plants often need high light (anywhere above 3 wpg or so). Once you have that much light however, you will need pressurized co2

[Mrssacevedo]

you should. the red plants often need high light (anywhere above 3 wpg or so). Once you have that much light however, you will need pressurized co2
I will not go with the brighter/higher wattage until I have a co2 system installed. Don't want an algae break out, but the 2X65w will not give me 3watts per gallon it will give me less. Maybe I should get 2X36 watts kit...that would put me at 3.3 watts per gallon. What do you think?

[dundadundun]

lighting sounds good. you'll have to reconsider dosing though i'd think.

[theredchaser]

The reason I was thinking of Actinics is because I read that it would give more color to the plants. If it doesn't help in freshwater aquariums then I will not get it. I want my Repens, or any colored plant, to have the brightness they need to become red. The wattage and kelvin spectrum I currently have, 2X55watts at 6500K, they are not as red. When I had them in my 10g under 30watts(2X15watts spiral daylight bulbs) they were much redder than they are now. What would your suggestion be for me to get them as red as they were in my 10g?


I want to give my colored plants(repens) what they need to be the riches color they can be. With the 2X55watts from AhSupply I can only go as high as 2X65watt bulbs. Giving me a 2.4 watts per gallon. If I up the wattage will that give me the results I want?

As stated before the extra lighting will not be installed until I have a CO2 system running on this tank. I'm doing my homework now so I can have everything I need when I ready. Thank you all for all your help. Would I get the results I want if I go with 2X65w 10k bulbs, flourish and CO2?

The actinics would give an artificial coloring to your plants in that there will be a blue hue due to the light. The plant itself will more or less be the same.

There's contradicting reports on how/why your plants turn red. The first theory is that under high light conditions and a nutrient deficiency of nitrogen or phosphate, the chlorophyll production will halt while the existing ones will naturally break down but won't be replenished. The result is that green is no longer reflected back due to the lack of chlorophyll, while the reds that are usually masked by the chlorophyll are more obvious. This kind of behavior is done on purpose by higher-order terrestrial plants which change color during the fall. Essentially what they are doing is that they are storing their nutrients rather than using them, thus the chlorophyll production is cut off.

The second theory is that plants have a threshold in the light intensity they can tolerate. After a certain point, the aquatic plants start producing compounds they normally do not in order to shield the chlorophyll from getting fried by diffusing the light to other compounds. One of these compounds may be anthocyanin, which is responsible for red pigment.

I personally go more toward second theory. I've grown reddish plants that were relatively rich in nitrogen and phosphates before in intense light (~4-5wpg) The key seems to be very intense light, since that was the the common characteristic of whenever I had red plants. The two ways to do this are either to have more lights in order to increase the light intensity or grow the plant closer to the water surface in order to gain more of what is already being emitted. I haven't tested with low nitrogen/phosphate conditions, but I've read mixed results. Most hobbyists say that its a pain keeping the aquarium under those conditions without other risks.

Hope this helps. :dance:

[Mrssacevedo]

lighting sounds good. you'll have to reconsider dosing though i'd think.
What do you mean?


The actinics would give an artificial coloring to your plants in that there will be a blue hue due to the light. The plant itself will more or less be the same.

There's contradicting reports on how/why your plants turn red. The first theory is that under high light conditions and a nutrient deficiency of nitrogen or phosphate, the chlorophyll production will halt while the existing ones will naturally break down but won't be replenished. The result is that green is no longer reflected back due to the lack of chlorophyll, while the reds that are usually masked by the chlorophyll are more obvious. This kind of behavior is done on purpose by higher-order terrestrial plants which change color during the fall. Essentially what they are doing is that they are storing their nutrients rather than using them, thus the chlorophyll production is cut off.

The second theory is that plants have a threshold in the light intensity they can tolerate. After a certain point, the aquatic plants start producing compounds they normally do not in order to shield the chlorophyll from getting fried by diffusing the light to other compounds. One of these compounds may be anthocyanin, which is responsible for red pigment.

I personally go more toward second theory. I've grown reddish plants that were relatively rich in nitrogen and phosphates before in intense light (~4-5wpg) The key seems to be very intense light, since that was the the common characteristic of whenever I had red plants. The two ways to do this are either to have more lights in order to increase the light intensity or grow the plant closer to the water surface in order to gain more of what is already being emitted. I haven't tested with low nitrogen/phosphate conditions, but I've read mixed results. Most hobbyists say that its a pain keeping the aquarium under those conditions without other risks.

Hope this helps. :dance:
Yes it does help, thank you so much. Chances are I will go with the higher wattage. I liked the way they looked better in my 10g with 3wpg.

[Blown 346]

The reason I was thinking of Actinics is because I read that it would give more color to the plants. If it doesn't help in freshwater aquariums then I will not get it. I want my Repens, or any colored plant, to have the brightness they need to become red. The wattage and kelvin spectrum I currently have, 2X55watts at 6500K, they are not as red. When I had them in my 10g under 30watts(2X15watts spiral daylight bulbs) they were much redder than they are now. What would your suggestion be for me to get them as red as they were in my 10g?

To get more color out of the plants I myself would use a 10,000K bulb. that will bring there color out more. The lower kelvin light will make the plant or plants look washed out due to the Color being at the lower end of the spectrum.

[Mrssacevedo]

To get more color out of the plants I myself would use a 10,000K bulb. that will bring there color out more. The lower kelvin light will make the plant or plants look washed out due to the Color being at the lower end of the spectrum.
Even if you have 2X55 watt bulbs?

[Nue]

I have 2x55watts of t5 over my 55g. Does great.

[thrak76]

lighting sounds good. you'll have to reconsider dosing though i'd think.


What do you mean?


I think that dundadundun means (IMO) that with that much light, you're going to need to dose fertilizers. Just flourish will not be enough, unless you get the whole line of flourish products. It would be cheaper to go with dry ferts.

[dundadundun]

:iagree:

i mean ~3wpg sounds good with co2 of course but then you'll definitely need a full line of ferts to work with that gives you npk and micros.

as far as everything else... it was covered before i posted pretty good i thought.

[Blown 346]

Even if you have 2X55 watt bulbs?


The wattage isnt what is affecting the coloration of the plants. Its the kelvin of the bulb. Or color that the bulb gives off.

If you want your plants to have more color, get a 10,000K bulb at the same wattage. The higher Kelvin will give off a brighter color that will be more white and will have your plants stand out more.

[Mrssacevedo]

I think that dundadundun means (IMO) that with that much light, you're going to need to dose fertilizers. Just flourish will not be enough, unless you get the whole line of flourish products. It would be cheaper to go with dry ferts.


:iagree:

i mean ~3wpg sounds good with co2 of course but then you'll definitely need a full line of ferts to work with that gives you npk and micros.

as far as everything else... it was covered before i posted pretty good i thought.
I do dose with flourish at the moment, once every week per instruction. I will continue to do this then. I don't know about the excel though, I have vals and I've heard it melts the vals.


The wattage isnt what is affecting the coloration of the plants. Its the kelvin of the bulb. Or color that the bulb gives off.

If you want your plants to have more color, get a 10,000K bulb at the same wattage. The higher Kelvin will give off a brighter color that will be more white and will have your plants stand out more.
Okay, I will try the 10k first and see how everything goes. I will probably go ahead and do more wattage as I really do want those plants that require them. I really want a tiger lily or whatever it's called....lol. The ones with the really broad leaves that comes in red, pink or green and is spotted they grow from bulbs. I read they require bright lighting, which I don't think my covers at this time. Thanks guys, I appreciate all the help.

[DeeDeeK]

Cool white(@ 4000K) and warm white bulbs(2700K -3100K) bring the red end of the spectrum out more than do daylight balance bulbs (5000k - 6700k), 10000k, 12000k, and higher bulbs.

The advice to use 10000k is great if you want to boost greens, blues, and purples. Your daylight bulbs in the smaller tank are possibly redder than your 6500k bulbs. "Daylight" bulbs rated at 5000k bring out more red than "daylight" bulbs rated a 6500k. If you use add more light and it is from, say, cool white bulbs, it will punch up your reds, oranges, and yellows.

The higher the color temperature, the bluer the light, the less red your reds will be.

GE cool white fluorescents mixed with daylight balance bulbs actually give superior plant growth as well as very nicely balanced color.

[Mrssacevedo]

Cool white(@ 4000K) and warm white bulbs(2700K -3100K) bring the red end of the spectrum out more than do daylight balance bulbs (5000k - 6700k), 10000k, 12000k, and higher bulbs.

The advice to use 10000k is great if you want to boost greens, blues, and purples. Your daylight bulbs in the smaller tank are possibly redder than your 6500k bulbs. "Daylight" bulbs rated at 5000k bring out more red than "daylight" bulbs rated a 6500k. If you use add more light and it is from, say, cool white bulbs, it will punch up your reds, oranges, and yellows.

The higher the color temperature, the bluer the light, the less red your reds will be.

GE cool white fluorescents mixed with daylight balance bulbs actually give superior plant growth as well as very nicely balanced color.
The bulbs I was using in my 10gallon were 6500k daylight bulbs. My green plants were green but are greener in my 55gallon for some reason. My red plants were red but are not as red in my 55gallon. Under the 2x15w 6500k lighting in my 10gallon my red plants were their reddest.

[Mrssacevedo]

While doing some more searching into wattage and kelvin/light output I bumped into VHO. What is it and what is the difference?

[Bubbles2112]

VHO= very high output

[DeeDeeK]

I've read the VHO bulbs need to be replaced frequently, like every 4 or 5 months because their spectrum degrades rapidly.

I think they're more popular with reef tank enthusiasts for some reason.

[DeeDeeK]

The bulbs I was using in my 10gallon were 6500k daylight bulbs. My green plants were green but are greener in my 55gallon for some reason. My red plants were red but are not as red in my 55gallon. Under the 2x15w 6500k lighting in my 10gallon my red plants were their reddest.

Oh, could you post some photos?

[Mrssacevedo]

Oh, could you post some photos?

Sorry Dee I broke down the tank a few weeks ago and moved everything into my 55gallon. When it was up and running I didn't have a camera to take pics, my little brother got a hold of it...lol. I'm thinking of setting up again, if and when I do I'll take pics, but first I have to get a cam...lol.