Diy quick disconnect valve (1st attempt)

interesting idea. I just ordered a new 2215, and thank god for the disconnect valves. I had just hooked up the hoses and all, and went to set the top on the canister when the siphon started and tried to flood my room. Quick disconnect valves like these are a great idea. Keep us posted on how well it works.

You are much more handy than I

Those are the same PVC O-ring disconnects I use on my DIY powerhead canister filter. The compression style O-ring is the key making the connect-disconnect effortless and very leak proof.

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=191499&page=3

I have thought about this idea.. but lacked your ambition...

Hope it works like we think, you will have a permanent DIY stickie in your future..

With the exception of one canister cleaning it hads been running non-stop sine the end oF the DIY posting and and for having a limited media bed dose a pretty good job. Th canister body for me isn't the issue its the one sided lid O-ring. Becasue the O-ring is designed to primarily to stop pressure one way keeping air or water out, it has much less sealing ability to keep water in. All this means is that the canister must be placed no lower then the base of the aquarium or no more then 15-20 inches below the waterline.

Place it on the floor and it will work fine until you shut off the power, this is when any floor canister is most susceptible to leaking or rupturing becasue the full weight and pressure of the tank water comes to bare on the seals and lid. In the DIY Lock & Lid case water starts leaking from the o-rings, but pick the canister off the floor by 24 inches and the leaking completly stops because the pressure has dropped to an acceptable level.

This is why most canister O-rings are wedged on the side between both the lid and canister providing equal sealing strength, or a canister should have securing latches that hold the lid against the O-ring liek the FX5, pond or Ocean Systems canisters where internal pressure becasue of the larger lid size acts with even more outward force on the lid to force it off or leak past the O-ring.

I will probubly retire my Lock & Lid canister only becasue I have learned so much about the way canisters work that I can now take a used and broken commercial canister that someone throws away sells for almost nothing and rebuild it or modify it to work even better. However I would do another DIY canister if it was large enough for like a pond or central filter for multipal aquariums. Many people think DIY is a waste of money over lounge chair purchasing, but don't realize the skill sets you gain that pay a much bigger investment over time.

i had to buy a new quick disc for my 2217 about 2 weeks ago, maybe a bit longer after i broke the barb with a hose clamp, that sucked. i found that i was able to put the canister in a 5 gal bucket, turn off the inlet side with the quick disc that was left and then the excess water from the output side just went into the bucket, i also made sure a siphon wouldnt be creaeted.