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jmm197
11-07-2009, 9:12 AM
I have just noticed fungus on a couple of blue rams I just got. They are juveniles. Right now it's just a tiny little cottony spot on ones side and ones top fin. And now I have noticed what might be some on a neon tetras tail. I have never had fungus in my aquarium before.

What is the best medication?
Should I treat the whole tank or quarantine them to treat?

Thanks so much!

mel_20_20
11-07-2009, 10:51 AM
It may actually be a bacterial infection. There's a bacterial infection called Columnaris that is also called "cotton wool" disease, because it is cottony looking.

Fungus has long, hair-like fuzz; like what you see growing on bread.

Could you post some pictures? This would be very helpful in accurately diagnosing what the problem is, and therefore knowing what the best medication may be.

Also, could you post answers to these questions? This information will be very helpful, as well.

These questions along with more information on the subject of each question (most of which I left out here for space considerations) are at the top of this forum on Fresh Water Disease and Illness.

Here is the link, which has very helpful information. Forgive me if you are a long-time fish keeper and already are very familiar with all the facts in the "Sticky".

http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180877 (http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180877)

For expedience in helping with your problem I listed the questions and left out most of the information. Please read the full "Sticky" written by Lupin, one of the fish gurus here on AC, when you can.


Basic Questions

1. What is the size of your tank?

State the tank volume in liters or gallons. If you are unsure of your tank size, use this calculator (http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/calc.php)* to determine the tank size.
(*found at top of this forum)

2. What are your water parameters? State the brand of test kit used.

This question is frequently evaded by people whenever they ask help for fish health issues. Failing to post the water parameters will not give you proper diagnosis of your fish. It s very important you monitor your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH (carbonate hardness) and GH (general hardness). Ammonia and nitrite are both toxic substances with the former being more toxic on the alkaline side (> 7.0). Both substances must remain in zero levels to avoid intoxication among the fish.

Nitrate generally is a harmless substance provided it does not exceed 40 ppm. More than 40 ppm poses a greater risk to the fish particularly stunting of the fish's growth and increased susceptibility of the fish to health issues.

pH varies depending on the fish and their ability to adapt to the changes in their surroundings. It is easily influenced by the buffering capacity of the KH and GH. KH itself always play a bigger role in the fish's ability to adapt compared to the pH as KH helps with the stability of pH depending on the variables that may influence the changes.

For test kits, a set of Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (API for brevity from hereon) liquid test kits is widely recommended. Test strips are not entirely reliable for accuracy and validity.


3. Is your aquarium set up freshwater or brackish water?



4. How long the aquarium has been set up?

We often think a week establishment of the tank after finishing the cycling phase already means the tank is well established. This is a common fallacy especially as the bacteria have not colonized well enough so you have to expect ammonia and nitrite to sometimes go up to dangerous levels. In this case, a water change has to be performed to keep them to safe levels.


5. What fish do you have? How many are in your tank? How big are they? How long have you had them?


6. Were the fish placed under quarantine period (minus the first batch from the point wherein the tank is ready to accommodate the inhabitants)?


7. What temperature is the tank water currently?


8. Are there live plants in the aquarium?



9. What filter are you using? State brand, maintenance routine and power capacity.


10. Any other equipment used (aside from heater and filter which are two very important components of the tank)?


11. Does your aquarium receive natural sunlight at any given part of the day? What is your lighting schedule (assuming you do not rely on sunlight for our viewing pleasure)?



12. When did you perform your last water change and how much water was changed? How often do you change your water? Do you vacuum the substrate?


13. What foods do you provide your fish? What is the feeding schedule?



14. What unusual signs have you observed in your fish?


15. Have you treated your fish ahead of diagnosis? If so, what treatments did you use? State your reasons for planning ahead of proper diagnosis.

I know this is kind of tedious, but the answers to these questions will be very helpful.:)