Starting marine for first time.

mes1234

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Jan 25, 2010
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Hey everyone! I just picked up a 45g long tank and stand and filter from someone for literally $20. They needed it out of their house really bad and they just basically gave it to me. I have a 72 gallon freshwater tank and now i am thinking I may start a marine with the 45 gallon. As far as going fake coral to save money, how much do you guys think it will cost me to start this tank. I lady gave me: A filter(which I can upgrade later), a heater, and a light. I know I want to buy the special coral sand with bacteria or w/e just in case I want to add live rocks at a later time. I need to get salt, a hydrometer thing, and do I need a skimmer right away?
 
well u WILL need live rock or your tank will be really ahrd to care for. You dodnot need live sand the rock will bring that to live as time goes on. I would reccoment a skimmer and a sump for your tank unless u want to put only a few fish in it. I take it your not getting corals, but if u do then u will need new lights. The fish, live rock, sand, salt, and filter (u will want to upgrade sooner then later) will cost at least $400 probably more. This hobby is expensive so u will need to have lots of money or you should just stick with fresh water. Look at some of the other threads here to get an idea of what your getting yourself into. If u do this right you can have a very rewarding tank with lots of color.
 
Cost will depend on what you want to do with the tank. To get it up and running as a FOWLR (fish only with live rock), you are looking at...

40 lbs LR - $250 - $300 (you can do this cheaper by using dead/base rock and seeding it with a few lbs of LR but it will take longer to establish a mature enough tank to mainatain life). I recommend you make the majority of your investment here and buy quality cured LR whether you go all live or patially live (it will all be live in the end).You can use less rock depending on how heaviliy you stock and if you have any added filtration (skimmer, refugium, etc.).

20 lbs of sand - $20 to $40 (depend if you go with dry or live sand)

Salt mix - $20 to $30 for a 50 gallon bag

Hydrometer/refractometer - $10 to $40 (refractometer being the more accurate and expensive)

RO/DI water - You can buy a RO/DI filter and make your own (about $150 will get a you a decent one brnad new) or most LFS's sell RO/DI. You don;t have to use RO/DI or RO and can use tap but you are taking a risk that will not be worth it.

Lighting - The stock fixture will work for a FOWLR but you will likely not be able to keep any coral. Figure another $200+ minimum if you decide to make this tank a reef down the road.

Flow - Don't skimp here. Get some good powerheads that provide a nice wide and variable flow pattern if possible. Figure $80 for the economy PHs that will be ok to start with to upwards of $200-$300 for nice PHs (prices are on new PHs).

Skimmer - Up to you if you want to use one or not. In a FOWLR, the skimmer becomes a little less important unless you are going to heavily stock the tank with fish or have fish with big appetites. Not sure what kind of filter you got but most use Aquaclears on marine tanks. Honestly I think most would tell you to add a sump to your setup and possible turn a section of the sump into the fuge. If you do add a sump you can hide most of your equipment in it (including a skimmer). There are HOB skimmers too that will work very well.


I recommend you spend some time online seeing what works for others and gauging your expense from there. Too many variables to give a firm number. I think you're looking at a minimum of about $500 but you can easily spend thousands. Just depends on what you want to keep and how far you want to go with it.
 
Fish only with live rock is typically the beginner way to go. I'd go with 1.5 lbs per gallon of live rock. The way I did it was to buy mostly the base rock with a few decorative rocks put in there. Base is generally around $4.99/lb at the LFS. Decorative is $7 or $8/lb. Buying from the LFS is better to start even though online is cheaper. Usually it is cured better locally (but not always). Your salt mix is going to be around $35 for a bucket. Not sure what kind of filter you have, but I'll assume that you don't have an installed overflow and it's a "hang on the back" filter. If it is one of those corner filters or a sponge I'd spring for a Fluval U3 or U4 pump. They're cheap and will get the job done. Oh - and if it is an under-gravel filter dump it. They're more trouble than they're worth in a SW setup. Also, you'll need power heads in the tank. You want to move around 8X the total gallons of water per hour. In this case, 8x45. Best is to buy two or three rather than one high volume one so that you can move the water in different directions. These cost anywhere from $40 - $80 depending on their capacity. Sand you've already looked at (good, cuz I forget what it costs). I have a deeper sand bed, but I wish I had gone with just 2 inches as I need to stir the substrate now and then because it's so deep. You'll need a protein skimmer - buy one 2nd hand if you can. Also go with the rule of buying one twice as powerful as you need. That'll be around $100 to $150. Not exactly sure because mine was used. Let's see...hydrometer - around $10, thermometer - another $10, test kit - around $25. Figure in another $100 for odds and ends. Also, if the light is just some generic light you'll want to eventually buy a high end power compact with additional actinic bulbs (maybe even some lunar LED's). Those can be pricey and can wait.
That's all I can think of off the top of my head. If you get enough live rock then you really only need to worry about mechanical filtration as the live rock will be your biological filtration.
A 45 gallon tank isn't that huge. Therefore your water chemistry mistakes will be felt more than in a larger tank. For example, if you dumped too much of a chemical into a 45 gallon tank the fish will notice it more than in a 90 gallon tank. Just things to think about.
I wouldn't count on the live sand to cycle with. I'd count more on the rock. Sand is good for taking care of the nitrate, but live rock is better for the ammonia/nitrite parts of the cycling. There are a lot of different ways to start your cycle - some go with fish, some with chemicals, some throw a piece of raw shrimp in there, other throw some food in there. Anything to get the ammonia to build up. Then your live rock takes over.
Cycling can take anywhere from a week to a month to two months. A lot of people would probably prefer that you didn't even add a fish for a year, and then someone else will post that you should wait for a year and a half just to top the first guy. Typically you should be ready in about a month for your first starter fish. I used chemicals to move mine along and added my fish a little early - around 2 weeks in. It took a little while to catch up but my water is just about perfect now.
Read the Saltwater Tanks for Dummies book to get yourself started. It's pretty good. And when posting, take what everyone says with a grain of salt. Most of them have had their tanks up for years and setting up a new tank is pretty simple. It's easy for a lot of people to get high on their soapbox when they're already set up. It's a lot different when you have the itch and want to get started.
 
Additionally: Base rock is not dead rock. Dead rock is "Dry Rock". Base rock is simply not as decorative as...decorative rock. Less coralline algae and probably less living critters on it. However base rock is generally fully cured at the LFS and has "some" life on it. Dry rock has nothing live on it. It will come to life eventually, however to start out it won't be as efficient for biological filtration as base rock or more decorative (premium) rock.
 
Additionally: Base rock is not dead rock. Dead rock is "Dry Rock". Base rock is simply not as decorative as...decorative rock. Less coralline algae and probably less living critters on it. However base rock is generally fully cured at the LFS and has "some" life on it. Dry rock has nothing live on it. It will come to life eventually, however to start out it won't be as efficient for biological filtration as base rock or more decorative (premium) rock.

I agree with you on the definitions of base and dead/dry but I alo think the terms base and dead are not used consistently in the hobby and are sometimes interchangeable (just trying to be less confuisng). Either way they can help cut down on some of the initial startup costs.

If you decide you want to use dead/dry rock and you don;t have a good source local to you, checkout www.bulkreefsuply.com and/or http://www.reefcleaners.org/. I have rock from both and its great looking rock. the BRS rock is a bit more pourous.
 
You're right. We should come to some consensus on what these things are called. My thoughts are that base rock is less attractive and can be used as a base for premium rock.
 
I agree, it's basically foundation rock used to prop up the prettier stuff :).
 
so basically, because the costs are so high, I should just stick with freshwater. Thanks everyone!.
 
lol
 
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