divider postions in a diy sump/fuge

[daniel89]

So i have a 50 long under my 125 and i was wondering what would be the best postion for the dividers? Im putting my protein skimmer in the first chamber. Then i was thinking a underflow and then a overflow leading to the fuge with a overflow then a underflow and a overflow going to the return pump.

Any ideas? pictures would be awesome if you have them.


skimmer (underflow)(overflow) fuge (overflow)(underflow)(overflow)return pump

[fsn77]

It really starts with the footprint of your skimmer. It would be a good idea to search around a little and see the range of footprints for skimmers rated for your tank. Basically, if your current skimmer has a small footprint compared to what you find to be more typical, you'll want to leave enough room in the sump's skimmer chamber for one that's more typical in case you ever need to replace your skimmer. The difference might be rather minimal, but I made that mistake and built the skimmer chamber just large enough for the skimmer I had and now I'm stuck with it because most skimmers for my tank's size have a footprint too large for the skimmer section I built. So, I learned the hard way... And now I try to make sure others don't have to.

Then, there's a balance that you'll have to decide on for the fuge and the area for the return pump. The larger the fuge, the larger your potential for nutrient export via macro algae growth. Since the return pump section is where the loss of water through evaporation shows, it's generally a good idea to make that section relatively large as well. If the return pump area is too small, you'll find yourself needing to top-off more frequently, or your auto top-off will need to run more often, which could be an issue if frequent switching on/off does not work well for the auto top-off pump.

[Phatboydime]

I agree with fsn77, but you do have the general idea correct in relation to the under, over, over, under, over path. Bubbles should be trapped at the first overflow for each section. In theory. Also depends on yoru turnover rate through the sump.

[daniel89]

the foot print is 13.5x11 for the skimmer and i have a mag 12 for the return pump

[davocean]

The first baffle determines height, and should be close to about 3/4 sump height IMO to acount for backflow/siphon during power failure, and also correct depth for skimmer pump.
I had enough height under my stand to raise my skimmer w/ PVC so I could get max water volume.
So first baffle will be an over, and that will be chamber height.
Next comes an under baffle.
Then an over.
I make these about 2" apart so I can get my hand in there, but you could make less.
Then I have fuge, as much as I could get.
Then my last baffle before return, which should be an under, which lessens chance of pump running dry, and also since micro's rise, it lessens the chance of those.
I'll look for my pics

[davocean]

OK, this is last one I built.
I usually rec glass to glass, acrylic to acrylic, but in this case I had left over acrylic and used that on my glass tank.
So on mine there are plates between each baffle added for tensile strength so this will last, you may not need those.
Also in my pics, you'll see I make a grid of silicone where skimmer/pump sits, this is to avoid pump vibrations.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/sump036.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/sump034.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/sump031.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/CurrentTank098.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e141/mermail/150g146.jpg

[daniel89]

amazing, I basicly did mine the same way, i will post pictures tomorrow morning. i have a huge skimmer so it took up must of my sump so yeah lol im glad i went with the 50 long, and my baffles for the fuge are 8 inches high. so yeah that should do for failures.