Maybe columnaris???

slim.walrus

AC Members
Dec 8, 2009
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Basic Questions

1. What is the size of your tank?

75 gallon.


2. What are your water parameters? State the brand of test kit used.

API freshwater master test kit.
Temperature: 80F
pH: 8.8 ... didn't realize it was that high and not sure if thats a problem...
ammonia: 0.25
nitrites: 0
nitrates: 0

3. Is your aquarium set up freshwater or brackish water?

Freshwater

4. How long the aquarium has been set up?

The tank was fishless cycled thoroughly for a month and has now had fish in it for a little over a month


5. What fish do you have? How many are in your tank? How big are they? How long have you had them?

One 8" albino pleco, 3 black neon tetras, 2 neon tetras, one medium sized angelfish and 3 harlequin rasboras that we have had since last july. 4 cardinal tetras, 4 harlequin rasborsa, one young black angelfish, and 2 juvie bala sharks that we just got a month ago.

6. Were the fish placed under quarantine period (minus the first batch from the point wherein the tank is ready to accommodate the inhabitants)?

No, I had not learned about quarantining and what it involves >.<

7. What temperature is the tank water currently?

About 80 degree farenheit.

8. Are there live plants in the aquarium?

There are only a few very small live plants that were previously in my other tank for months before this tank.


9. What filter are you using? State brand, maintenance routine and power capacity.

A topfin 60 and a topfin 40 in combination.

10. Any other equipment used (aside from heater and filter which are two very important components of the tank)?

N/A

11. Does your aquarium receive natural sunlight at any given part of the day? What is your lighting schedule (assuming you do not rely on sunlight for our viewing pleasure)?

No, its in the basement.


12. When did you perform your last water change and how much water was changed? How often do you change your water? Do you vacuum the substrate?

Before today, the last water change was about a week ago. Today, did about a 30% water change because I noticed the sick fish, and yes I vacuum the substrate. I try to change the water every week or week and a half.

13. What foods do you provide your fish? What is the feeding schedule?

Flake food twice daily, with a fasting day once a week. Occasionally get freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms

14. What unusual signs have you observed in your fish?

Already went through and survived a bout of ich with no incident. But about a week after the big water change to get rid of the salt treatment, I lost a neon tetra. Now just this week, I lost a baby cardinal tetra and now I just noticed that one of the bala sharks is not looking too good at all. He has two off color patches on his back, and his tail looks a bit brownish in color. His mouth is the worst though, it looks really red and maybe a bit swollen. He also looks a bit paler than usual.


15. Have you treated your fish ahead of diagnosis? If so, what treatments did you use? State your reasons for planning ahead of proper diagnosis.

Only the treatment for the Ich that I previously had, which I treated with salt.



From what I've read, the closest thing that I guess it is is columnaris... But I really am not sure at all. Maybe some of my water parameters are off? And I have absolutely no idea what killed the neon and the cardinal. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am still quite a newb.. o.O
 
Symptoms:

White spots on mouth, edges of scales, and fins
Cottony growth that eats away at the mouth
Fins disintegrate beginning at the edges
'Saddleback' lesion near the dorsal fin
Fungus often invades the affected skin
Rapid gilling in cases where gills are infected

Most Columnaris infections are external, and present first as white or grayish white spots on the head, and around the fins or gills. The lesions may first be seen only as a paler area that lacks the normal shiny appearance. As the lesion progresses it may become yellowish or brownish in color and the area around it may be tinged red.


Lesions on the back often extend down the sides, giving the appearance of a saddle. On the mouth the lesions may look moldy or cottony, and the mouth will become eaten away. Fins will erode and have a frayed appearance as the infection progresses. The gills filaments will disintegrate as the bacteria invade them, and the fish will begin breathing rapidly due to lack of oxygen. Less commonly, the infection will be internal, and display no external symptoms.

Treatment:

Change water
Vacuum gravel
Add aquarium salt
Treat with copper sulfate or antibiotic
Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment

External infections should be treated with antibiotics or chemicals in the water. Copper sulfate, Acriflavine, Furan, and Terramycin may all be used externally to treat Columnaris. Terramycin has proven to be quite effective both as a bath, and when used to treat foods for internal infections. Salt may be added to the water to enhance gill function. Livebearers in particular will benefit from the addition of salt, however use caution when treating catfish, as many are sensitive to salt.

Prevention:

Quarantine new fish for two weeks
Maintain high water quality
Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet
Medicate fish prophylactically before moving them
Disinfect nets and other equipment before using

Because the bacteria thrive on organic wastes, it can be controlled by regular water changes and vacuuming of the gravel. Proper diet and maintaining good water quality in general will keep the fish from being stressed and therefore susceptible to infection. To avoid spreading the bacterium, nets, specimen containers, and other aquarium equipment should be disinfected before each use. Small quantities of aquarium salt can be used to prevent disease in livebearer aquariums. When fish are being shipped or moved, they may be treated prophylactically with antibiotics or by feeding them medicated food.
 
Difference in pH of 6.8 to 8.8 is 100 fold in chemistry term which I find very extreme condition for majority of f/w fish.
I've done many experiments with fish as to adaptability in refrerence to pH but not that high for type of fish which are found in the opposite side of pH scale.

I dont know if pH was this high from the beginning but my assumption is that pH may have increased recently thus began experiencing problem. Again, you should be the one who should compare pH reading since the beginning.

Before doing any changes or treatment, how about double checking your pH of tank water and tap water?
 
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