First SW Tank Need Help

You can probably just get away with a canister filter and a hang on the back skimmer. The lighting for fish only isn't quite as important as it would be if you wanted corals. I'd get some kind of 2x54's (depending on your tank width) with lunars. Sounds like you're trying to go cheap so probably 1 T5 and 1 Actinic with the lunars. Make sure you get one with multiple cords for each lamp.

This isn't the answer you want, but just do a search at various online stores and find the light you want. Nobody can tell you what lights to get without your tank dimensions. Even then it is more a personal choice. Craigslist works, too - but be careful.

Buy the live rock from your LFS. Those prices sound reasonable, and usually the LFS cures the rock pretty well. If you buy online you're buying rock that is probably semi-cured at best. Doesn't sound like you have time for all that bother.

So...
Canister filter
HOB Skimmer
Heater (which you might already have)
Test Kit
Thermometer
Lighting
Not sure what else you'll need. Someone else can chime in.

Make sure you read all of the literature out there. I got Saltwater Fish for Dummies because, well, I'm a dummy.

If you decide on getting corals in any major fashion down the road then I would recommend a larger tank and running a sump underneath with a refugium. If you get sand I wouldn't bother with the live sand. The rocks are good enough.

Well for starters...take your time...a differ ball game from freshworld ...a little more to learn is all.

Now Fowlr is going to be more forgiving than a reef...so that is a good way to start.

Lighting isn't a issue at the moment unless you purchase livestock that utilize the lighting to feed such as Anemone ....those things can wait if you don't mind buying lighting later.

Filteration: This is dependent on sump or no sump....without a sump you can purchase a CPR BakPak skimmer that hangs off the back.... SKimmer link on sig if you like to learn more about it.

You want to go sump? Dont want to drill? Then use a over flow box...such as CPR brands with a siphon on them .... you do have to spend 5 bucks on pvc and do a little cutting/joining. YOu will need a return pump also.

Sumps purpose is to only hide all your equipment...those with sumps hide heaters,skimmers, and some folks have refugiums built part of the sumps.


The key things for filtration:
1.Live rock...and general..I stress general rule..it doesnt ahve to be exact 1lb per gallon of rock....you don't have to be exact on this...just a general rule.

2. Skimmer

3. Flow (power heads)..this keeps the water stirred plus the sea has lots of current...so you want to imitate that for your marine tank...this also ensures no detritus settles on the substrate building you a nitrate bomb...and leading to problems of algae or worse "red slime". As it stirs the junk stays in the water allowing it to eventually be sucked out by the skimmer.

Maintenance is different:
1. You will need a marine test kit..
Besides what you watch in fresh water...we also monitor phosphates, Calcium and alkalinity. AND drum roll ....Salinity levels ..using a refractometer (Sp?) we check our salinity levels...the floating cheapo's are inaccurate...

2. Water source is very important. You can read my tap water thing on sig to enlighten you more...You will mostly see people say use RO/DI water for top off and mixing your salt ...(if you can buy it from your local reef store if you can) ...RO/DI units are not cheap but are important. Change out rule is 10% a week on tanks...but of course if you test ...you know that if you see high readings of nitrate...change the water asap.

You remember that nightmare in FW called blue green algae...well ours is called red slime.....aka cyanobacteria.

There is a lot more to learn I just hit a few things. If I confused you....well...ask questions...

Cycle process....does take a bit longer in Marine land also....so expect to wait a bit before diving into live stock.


When you have an idea what you WILL do....before going out to purchase come back and good folks like the Mods and regulars here can help give you tips on products to look at and consider.

My final note. If its cheap..its probably junk Jeebo brand =p avoid it.

#warning on canister filters: The detritus will get trapped inside it. What happens to crap,food, and other bio? It breaks down....putting nutrients back into your display. A recipe for more water changes for you...and possible algae booms and cyano problems. Good for FW....but I don't recommend for marine. It's a detritus trap....

Skimmer and live rock do the job....and are your two main filtering mechanisms most common in Marine.

For a cheap, yet still good light that will give you room to add some corals later on I would go with this light for your tank. It is a good beginner light but is missing the "dual power cords and moonlights" which aren't really critical, more of a luxury. You can still add plenty of nice easy corals with that light though if you decide to in the future. If you have no plans at all to add corals then a simple 36" standard floro light you get at any big box pet store will suffice and cost a lot less than the one I linked to.

$5/lb is the normal price for live rock. You can get better deals from craigslist/local reefers but it is a "buyer beware" scenario. You have to look at the rock before committing to make sure it isn't full of hair algae and aiptasia anemones. If you want to go all out and get superb live rock online I think Tampa Bay Saltwater is one of the best out there if you live in the states.

If you get enough good live rock then a sump/filters is really not required. I use a sump on my 29G only because I don't like cords/heaters/pumps in my display tank. A decent hang on back skimmer is really all you need along with live rock for a filtration in a saltwater tank. You can always add extras to help out, like media reactors, but is not required.

Beasty Kato said:

Sorry for not posting my dimensions. A 40G breeder is 36" x 18" x 16, which I believe is the same size base as a 65G tank just not as tall.

As far as the lighting goes I don't need it right away but I just thought their might be a specific company/brand that makes good quality lighting that someone might be able to recommend.

So far I have been reading about DSB's and read an article from the author of "Sand Bed Secrets" and think I may go with a DSB and the live rock. I've also seen quite a few articles about just running the DSB, LR and Skimmer on reef tanks and it being enough filtration? Although, I would imagine you would need more frequent water changes.

ToeJam: missed your post as I was replying to the previous poster. Thanks for the advice and links I'll definitely take a look.

Click to expand...

It's all good.

Im the kinda guy who prefers to buy retro fit kits...make my own hood. If you took shop in high school. This should be easy (unless bow front). Bow front was hard.

I use Icecap ballasts with two metal halide bulbs Ushio 10k bulbs but im a reef guy....you wont need all that....

Simple basic lighting unless you want some soft corals and Anenome (sp?) to be hosted by your clowns....

Examples:
1. T5 http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...luorescent-light-fixture/ps/c/3578/3733/13822

2. Compacts http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...fluorescent-light-fixture/ps/c/3578/3733/9654

3. Metal halides http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+8075+7364&pcatid=7364

just examples....

Compacts would be good enough for the fowlr ...but if you want corals...you should step up to the t5 fixtures . Halides for the reef nuts like some of us here.

retro kits I find to be very cheap in comparison to pendants and fixtures ..but you do have to build a canopy and set it up yourself...more work but save lots if you going for intense lighting.

Lights on halides dont normally go over 8 hours on tanks...they are pretty intense....folks using PC can get away with 10 hours or so since not so intense.... general rule 8 hours on...using a timer you can get at wallmart or something

PS Just saw Aces post...His light recommendation is pretty good...cheap t5's perfect!

All good info here. Just keep researching and asking questions and you'll be off to a great start! Just take your time and buy quality equipment that will allow you some flexibility down the road. I have a 40B as well and its a great size/footprint for a reef tank. Welcome aboard

ToeJam said:

Filteration: This is dependent on sump or no sump....without a sump you can purchase a CPR BakPak skimmer that hangs off the back.... SKimmer link on sig if you like to learn more about it.

You want to go sump? Dont want to drill? Then use a over flow box...such as CPR brands with a siphon on them .... you do have to spend 5 bucks on pvc and do a little cutting/joining. YOu will need a return pump also.

Sumps purpose is to only hide all your equipment...those with sumps hide heaters,skimmers, and some folks have refugiums built part of the sumps.

My final note. If its cheap..its probably junk Jeebo brand =p avoid it.

#warning on canister filters: The detritus will get trapped inside it. What happens to crap,food, and other bio? It breaks down....putting nutrients back into your display. A recipe for more water changes for you...and possible algae booms and cyano problems. Good for FW....but I don't recommend for marine. It's a detritus trap....

Skimmer and live rock do the job....and are your two main filtering mechanisms most common in Marine.

Click to expand...

As a former Jebo buyer off of Craigslist I resemble that remark! Turned it on - put hand in water - electrocuted hand. Also it was almost too hot to touch when it was on. Like - fire starting hot!

While a lot of people advocate for the HOB overflow box I am adamantly against it. To me they are just a ticking timebomb. At some point it will lose its siphon and then you've got a major problem. That's why without the pre-drilled overflow setup in-tank I usually recommend a canister filter. They are less maintenance and that is what the OP was looking for, if I recall correctly. While you do have to change the filter media, it's all right there in the canister. Not really that big of a deal. In fact, I have a fluval U2 filter rated for 30 gallons that I sometimes use just for extra mechanical filtration. I took the bio-filtration out of it since I use live rock for that.