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View Full Version : Drill a tank or buy it already setup?



bigpoppax2
01-28-2004, 10:57 AM
I am mulling over buying the 75 gallon el-cheapo that I can find in the local papers and having to buy a bit and drill it myself. Or pay the local pet shop 50 dollars a hole to drill it.

OR

Buy one of the nice corner overflow tanks all-glass sells. I'm leaning toward the All-glass just cause I'd be sick if I drilled it myself and messed up a perfectly good tank.

And 50 bucks per hole geez that's highway robbery. 200 bucks for four holes. No thanks.

How hard was drilling tanks for those who have done it?

OrionGirl
01-28-2004, 11:45 AM
I recently bought 2 120's predrilled with the overflow kits, and figured it was about $300-400 less than buying the tanks, drilling the holes and installing the overflow kits. The problem becomes finding a tank that does not have a tempered bottom, and the fear of drilling it wrong or breaking the tank in the process. There are cheaper places to get holes drilled--most glass shops will do it, but they won't gaurantee the tank (meaning, it breaks, you're out of luck).

bigpoppax2
01-28-2004, 2:38 PM
Yep, just as I thought. I am going to get some prices back on the 75 with the corner overflows already in it. Should get some prices tonight or Thursday.

Kurt
02-02-2004, 12:05 AM
I am considering trying to drill my tank. I have no one near here that will do the job so I am thinking if I want it done I can maybe do it myself. I just want to drill one hole maybe 6 or 8 inches from the top near the center on the back. What is availlable as for drill bits to do this job. I don't want to empty out the tank, that will not be option number one. Has anyone used a diamond core drill successfully with a hand drill? How about some sort of die grinder tool, one that can plunge cut , then go in circle by hand, can that work?, has anyone done it? Or maybe making own drill bit with machined pipe and shank to fit drill bit and using course diamond grinding compound? Anyone done any of this? Help me out here.

frosty
02-02-2004, 8:04 AM
I know there are bits specifically for drillng glass. I have seen them on ebay. Try a local glass shop they would probabaly drill the holes for a lot less than $50 each. You will most likely still be better off buying a reef ready all glass. My LFS has a special for $599 you get 75g reef ready setup with sump, stand and canopy.

PS.
Make sure the galss isnt tempered, cant drill it if it is.

DCDeacon
02-02-2004, 2:35 PM
Is it ok to drill the tank at the top and just put an elbow PVC piece and a drain filter instead of installing an entire corner prefilter box?

OrionGirl
02-02-2004, 3:06 PM
You'll want to rig up something for the pipe--it won't skim effectively if it's not jagged (toothed?). You'll also have to take into account how much water will drain out should the power go out. If you have enough capacity in the sump, it's fine, but otherwise you can end up with a flood. Many LFS run setups similar to this, so it will work, just requires a bit more tinkering to deal with potential problems.

racerX
02-02-2004, 3:49 PM
Its there some diagram or scamatic somewhere that give the basic layout of a properly skimmed and plumbed tank? I have a 180gal that is scaring the hell out of me cause of the things I'm reading on here about overflows and wet/dry and bioballs and what not. I read the stickys about this but there is so much info on there now that its even more confussing???? If I have enough live sand and rock in the tank then i don't need to have filtration right? just good water movement and skimming? Fenner's book just gives like ten options it never really compairs them. I guess im just a little overwelmed. The tank didn't really seem that big till i got it in the house. Now im intimidated.

OrionGirl
02-02-2004, 3:54 PM
If you don't want to run with a sump or other external filtration, you don't have to. I strongly encourage you to run a protien skimmer, since they help keep wastes from breaking down, but they are not strictly required. Sumps are also good for hiding equipment--heaters and probes can be kept out of site.

However--setting up a tank isn't hard. It requires some planning, and that can be easier if you know what it 'should' look like--there are several threads in the DIY forum with links to plans. Visit your LFS and ask them to show you the filtration for their display tanks. Just take it one step at a time, and ask questions when you need to. It's kind of hard to provide a diagram, because there are many, many ways to accomplish the same thing--water goes out, water comes back in.

DCDeacon
02-02-2004, 3:56 PM
In an old 40 breeder I had with Discus I just had one of those male threaded screens that screws into the PVC elbow and "skims" the water and keeps fish, etc., from being sucked in. Will that do or is there something else I'll need to do? With that angled up it'll only take in so much water before the siphon will break, and my sump could hold that much water.

Does that make sense?

BTW, I assume that doing this is better than just using a pre-filter box.

OrionGirl
02-02-2004, 4:01 PM
Yep, that will work. Same idea--you want the surface water to pour into the pipe, but have a specific level where it will stop if the return fails. It's actually about the same as the box--the only advantage is that you don't have to worry about losing your siphon for some reason.

racerX
02-02-2004, 4:03 PM
I like my 55gl but its all hang on the back stuff. Its starting to kinda bother me that you can see all the pipes in the back. but ill keep reading the DIY forums for the bigger tank. I got till summer before i can afford to start on it so im sure ill keep you busy till then oriongirl. I think i have about picked mogurnda's brain out. lol