Tank Stand Finish Help

[Rudy]

Seeking help on the completion of my tank stand. I am not a carpenter, especially a finish carpenter, by any stretch of the imagination. :shake:

I have the tank stand, as you can see by the attached picture, framed and ready for completion. However, I am at a loss on how to install front doors (2 per side) and finish off the remaining visible front portion followed by the sides. I assume I will simply keep the back open?

For the sake of convienence I plan to buy the doors pre-made from home depot or the like. As far as the finish wood goes I plan to use red oak.

I guess my concern is do I cover the front with planks of red oak and then cut-out the opeings for the doors or do I cut the planks prior to installation around the space for the anticiapted doors. :confused: The sides I figure I can just do the former as there will be no side access.

I would greatly appreicate any help that someone may offer. A tutorial is what I most need. I am anxious to get to the plumbing of the tank, but I have to finish the stand first. ;)

[marks69]

i would just get a sheet of laminated plywood in the color you want, then cut out your door openings and fasten the doors with some kitchen hinges.
if you have a table saw cut the sides at a 45 so you end up with a nice joint, if not you can get iron on strips so you don't see the inside of the plywood.
gl
mark

[Phildo]

Looks real nice!
I made one for my 225 and it has similar construction, I finished it with 1/8" Birch plywood on the front and sides. Its a little rough on the seams and edges, but I'm happy with the way it came out.
Just be prepared for lots of sanding. ;)

[MisterFixIt]

Hey,

You can get a laminate that's stick on or iron on.You can also buy the sized lumber to cover your framework in red oak.It sounds like a beautiful finish product to me.Need some finish carpentry help let me know I can help!!

Marc
AKA Mr fix it

[Rudy]

OK, Stand primed plus a heavy coat of Semi-gloss wall and trim paint on all surfaces. . Did not have gloss, sorry. Will caulk later this week or over the weekend.

What is next, the front and sides with Oak Plywood as you mentioned. Please address the following questions.

1, What width plywood, 1/4" or 1/2"?

2, If I am understanding this I would cut the piece of plywood to match the front, maybe even tack it to the stand briefly. Draw out where I wish the doors to be and then remove the plyuwood and cut out the openings, right? I have a table saw, but how would I ensure I am in the right spot if the board is on top of the table as I raise the blade, trial and error and I assume lean toward the scrap area?

3, After the oenings for the doors are cut what is the next step, apply the finish wood and then the doors?

4, What size hardwood do you recommend?

[marks69]

1/4 is fine, it's not structual.
take a bunch of measurements for the doors, you could even make a cardboard template and tape it on to see what it'll look like.
if you measure the front, that's to the inside of the 45.cut one end, then cut a trial on the end exactly 1/4 " larger, then place it on the stand with a scrap on the long end and make sure it's flush along the whole edge, then take off the extra 1/4 and you should be ready.

i think the plywood will be easier for you, because you don't need any support for the doors, and you should be able to get 3 sides out of 1 full sheet.
gl
mark

[Marvin]

Hello,

Furniture maker here.

1. If you want an oak finish, one of the cheaper ways to go is use oak laminate that you have to glue on. You can use 3M Spray Adhesive. Either cut laminate into strips the size of your front frame or use full sheets to avoid seams and cut out openings. Just make sure the front is flat and fill holes.

2. For a more finished look. Use 3/4" oak plywood on the sides. Then use oak moulding and finish fronts.

3. Doors: Use 3/4 Oak plywood. You should end up with 4 doors, 2 per side. Door size should be at least 1" taller than the opening and for the width (Add 1/2" to opening and divide in 2).

4. Hinges can be standard outside mounted hinges with a 1/4" overlay, or for a more finished look use European Hinges which are installed from the inside but require special drilling.

Here to help.

[Rudy]

OK, I am pretty sure I do NOT want to go with a laminate application over plywood. I can see how it would be easier, but I personally do not care for the look.

If I am going to use Red Oak, should I still apply the plywood on the front as a base? If so, am I correct in assuming I will cut the door openings in the plywood then join the hard wood to the plywood over the surface via wood screws, gluing, etc. Then lastly apply the doors to the hardwood? Or, do I skip the whole plywood portion entirely and buy 12" wide planks of red oak, join them then screw directly to the frame and then cut the door opening out of them?

FYI, I will likely be buying the doors pre-made form home depot, Loews, etc.

I apologize for my ignorance with this process. I enjoy DIY, but with anything new it is a little confusing for me without being able to directly observe first. :confused:

Appreciate the help.

[MisterFixIt]

Hey,
Don't be confused there is no such thing as a dumb question!If you don't know the answer just ask.Find the doors you want and get the measurements and then you can fit the opening.You can do this w/no problem,you have a great start.You can get 1/4 inch oak or 1/2 inch and overlay the frame w/countersunk screws and fill them with plugs or wood putty,then sand them down.


Marc
AKA MR Fix It

[Rudy]

Originally posted by MisterFixIt
You can get 1/4 inch oak or 1/2 inch and overlay the frame w/countersunk screws and fill them with plugs or wood putty,then sand them down.


When you say 1/4 inch oak or 1/2 inch are you referring to plywood underneath the solid wood (Red Oak) on top of it?

[Marvin]

Heres your option 2.

Just don't confuse this with option from FixIt

1. cut 2 pcs of 3/4" oak plywood (and attach to both sides of your frame. This will add a total 1 1/2" to the overal width of your cabinet. This will now be your finished sides.

2. If you get 4/4 (Pronouned 4 quarter) solid oak lumbar (4/4 = 1" Thick - Planing - Sanding = 3/4" net)

Cut into 5 strips. This will be your front moulding or Finished frame. (3 verticle and 2 horizontal)

Sand outside edges so they won't be sharp.

3. Doors can be made of oak plywood (cheaper) or solid oak. If you use oak plywood, you will need to use an edgeband (also called wood tape) to apply over the outside edge of doors. (So you don't see the plywood)

4. Door size you can you the formula from previous post.

5. Ordering solid doors can be expensive but will probably give you a more finished look.

[Rudy]

Originally posted by Marvin
If you get 4/4 (Pronouned 4 quarter) solid oak lumbar (4/4 = 1" Thick - Planing - Sanding = 3/4" net)

Cut into 5 strips. This will be your front moulding or Finished frame. (3 verticle and 2 horizontal)


So basically, the hard wood will go over the plywood underneath to give the finish look, correct? What about the sides, do the same, minus the cut out for the doors so just a couple 4/4s of hardwood over the plywood, right?

Also with the doors, they will affix to the hardwood I layed over the plywood, correct?

Are you sure I should plywood the back. I need space for a bunch of plumbing. Or plyood and then subsequently jig saw openings as needed?

Thanks for the help. Sorry if my questions seem ignorant, cause they are. lol :D

[Marvin]

dont worry about the questions :)

The hardwood would but to to size and be moulding.

About the sides:

"cut 2 pcs of 3/4" oak plywood (and attach to both sides of your frame. This will add a total 1 1/2" to the overal width of your cabinet. This will now be your finished sides."

"Also with the doors, they will affix to the hardwood I layed over the plywood, correct?"

Correct

"Are you sure I should plywood the back. I need space for a bunch of plumbing. Or plyood and then subsequently jig saw openings as needed?"

An 1/8" or 1/4" oak back will give it a more finished look. You can still do a cut out in the back, just a little smaller

[Rudy]

Originally posted by Marvin
About the sides:

"cut 2 pcs of 3/4" oak plywood (and attach to both sides of your frame. This will add a total 1 1/2" to the overal width of your cabinet. This will now be your finished sides."

Maybe I have not seen the oak plywood and how it compares to regular plywood, but it seems if the front is hardwood having the sides plywood may show a cheaper look, Yes or No?

Thanks again for the help.

[Marvin]

Oak plywood general looks better than Solid oak beause you can get more variations from solid lumbar (since it has to be glued together). Oak plywood general is sliced differently to provide a nicer look. However, there are many differnt grades of oak plywood (tons).

First thing, use Plain slice oak plywood if possible (the grain will run up and down. Rotary oak plywood the grain runs in a circular pattern.

If plywood is too expensive, particle board should do just fine.

Last. to clarify. When we talk about oak plywood. We are talking about 3/4 plywood with a thin layer of oak veneer.

[Rudy]

Thanks for the explanation will scope out home depot and local lumbar yard this weekend. Details to follow...

[Rudy]

Well I have done quite a bit since my last post. Attched you will see a pic of the sand with one coat of stain and doors removed. I ended up going the Oak Plywood route and purchased pre-finished doors.

Thus far I am happy with the outcome. I just hope it looks OK when the wntire thing is lacquered and the doors are on.

Regardless, I have had fun and feel I have accomplised quite a bit for a guy who is not considered a Handyman. ;)

[Marvin]

well done!

[Rudy]

Thanks... :)

Now that I am essentially done, but for adding a few coats of lacquer, I am in the hunt for some good Canopy plans.

I plan to go with Flourescent lighting and would like the front to flip up so as not to effect the lighting when feeding, etc.

Please feel free to leave links to any good leads.

[Rudy]

Well the tank stand is completed, at least with regard to the actual structure. Of course, I will have to make several internal additions, e.g. electical components, adding a thin back panel, and plumbing, but the majority of this portion of my DIY project is complete. Thought you may wish to see one last pic.