Temperature fluxuation question

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Hey there. I have a 60 gallon salwater tank with fish and live rock. I also have just got into corals and placed a small Anthelia in the tank. It has been doing well for 2 weeks now by the looks of it. Here is a video. We no longer have the blue damsels or trigger.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR3ybeUl60A

My question is about temperature fluxuations. I live in Alberta Canada and it is the middle of winter and right now it's -30 degree celcius outside. We just installed a wood stove in the same room as the tank and we run the stove everyday from about 5PM until 10PM. The temperature stays at 25 degrees celcius (77 Fahrenheit) in the trank for the entire day but the temp slowly rises to a maximum of 26 degrees celcius everyday. So basically the tank rises and falls an entire degree every day. Is this a problem for the tank?

Thanks!

[Cerianthus]

Cant even imagine what -30C (approx -16F, I think) would be like.
From what Ive been told by local coral collectors, it fluctuates even more than a degree or two where they collect these corals, dependng on seasons. I wouldnt worry too much and 77F sounds good for both fish and corals.

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Oh it`s bloody cold. -40 with the windchill and we have got about a foot of snow in 3 days. Thanks for the info.

[Matt1972]

Temperature change is not a problem, what sort of pH change do you get over 24 hours, if you don't test that, don't worry .
Matthew.

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PH is around 8.1 - 8.3

[Matt1972]

Not a problem then, ph stability is more important than a 1*c temp fluctuation, are you using a temp. Controller, or just the heaterstat ? The bimetallic strip in the heaterstat is only good for so many cycles, and the evidence on the forums says that when they break, they break so that they stay on. I'd consider a temp controller, you can then plug a fan into it and place it over the surface of the tank, water movement, gas exchange.

I was worried about c02 and pH levels in you're tank,with the stove being in there but from what you said, there's no need to worry.
Looks like you used reef bones to set up the tank?
Matthew.

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Hey thanks Matthew

Right now there's a digital thermometer and a heater in the sump. What would a bad level of PH be?
Yeah I set it up with a mix of live rock and reef bones.

[Amphiprion]

Cant even imagine what -30C (approx -16F, I think) would be like.
From what Ive been told by local coral collectors, it fluctuates even more than a degree or two where they collect these corals, dependng on seasons. I wouldnt worry too much and 77F sounds good for both fish and corals.

Depends on the area and overall conditions surrounding it--physically and geographically. But I agree that corals can tolerate temperature fluctuations more than many give them credit for. While there isn't anything particularly bad about 77 degrees, it is a bit on the cooler side by comparison to most reefs. The low 80s are far more common.

[Cerianthus]

Although stable pH is important in any tank, but if one's reef tank has drastic fluct , perhaps tank wasnt properly set up or heavily stocked/fed fishes/very old system where it may have lost its buffering ability. But again very rare in appropriately set up/maintained reef tank.

1 degree of fluctuation can be very critical on corals. It all depends what the starting and/or ending temp was/is.

Going back to outside temp. I guess no pi--ing contest up there as it may freeze before hitting the ground or that might suffer frost bite during competition.:joke: Hope this isnt inappropriate to joke about here!

Stay Warm!

[Cerianthus]

Depends on the area and overall conditions surrounding it--physically and geographically. But I agree that corals can tolerate temperature fluctuations more than many give them credit for. While there isn't anything particularly bad about 77 degrees, it is a bit on the cooler side by comparison to most reefs. The low 80s are far more common.

From what Ive been told/seen, itis getting warmer by the minute it seems. Increase in coral bleaching, etc, etc.
Actually I did very well anywhere from 74-88F (done lot better at 70's for deeper specimen ) for most common corals, lps. some sps, softies, non-photo, but def not all. Didnt really lost any corasl due to fluct w/in their threshold points nor did I loose any coral due to natural pH fluct..

[Amphiprion]

1 degree of fluctuation can be very critical on corals. It all depends what the starting and/or ending temp was/is.

Well, again, yes and no. The actual temperature range within which the fluctuation occurs does make a difference as you say, but there are lots of other variables. While it may not be completely optimal, many corals can and will become accustomed to some sort of daily flux, as many are in the wild, without much issue. Granted, there are plenty of areas that experience little fluctuation beyond seasonal differences, too. That starts boiling down to the individual coral and their collection site, etc. There is some degree of circumstantial/anecdotal evidence that allowing some temperature variation may even ease serious problems if a more serious fluctuation does occur. Also, long term trends tend to do more damage than quick, relatively acute ones, the latter of which corals can handle a bit better (within a certain range, of course).

[Showdown]

Thanks for all the info. I'll keep an eye on the temp/PH/C02