Feeding dwarf puffers

[LuckyJGuy]

What size snails will do for Dwarf Puffers? I know they must be little but how little? And will the chain stores of the LFS sell tiny snails to me? I see them in the tanks but no prices so I assume they are not readily for sale, only if asked for?

[JesseJ]

At the place I worked at snails just came in on a plant shipment and we gave them to whomever asked.

Next time you buy something ask the fish person to throw some snails in a bag of water for you. They'll probibly just give them to you for free.

[OrionGirl]

Yep. My LFS lets me 'snail dive'--wander around pulling snails out of the tanks myself. It saves them time, since they'd ordinarily have to do the same thing. See if you can pick up some live brine as well--it's a good food source for them while they are young.

[TKOS]

The funny thing is that my LFS's don''t sell puffers but they do sell the tiny snails. 4 for a dollar. A bit of a rip off I think, but it is their right. I can't imagine who would be buying them though?

[TKOS]

That's what I said when I saw them. Of course you just have to buy a plant from one of the tanks for 4 bucks and it comes covered in snails. I don't think they thought that through.

[snakeskinner]

from reading about dwarf puffers (I'm probably getting a couple today) you don't want the malaysian trumpet snails due their hard shells that will break the puffer's teeth. I can't see paying for the brown pond snails, are you sure they weren't small ramshorns or something? Kyle

[OrionGirl]

Dwarf puffers seldom crunch the shells--they suck the snail out of the shell, leaving it intact. Mine can take out a snail much larger than themselves, which they then tear apart.

[Celura]

I recommend www.dwarfpuffers.com as a resource to you. Lots of great info over there. :)

[LuckyJGuy]

I dont know what kind of snails they are, theyre just really really small. I saw them at my LFS, I hope they would give for free that would be nice.


I know this is off topic but my friend who works at PetsMart is quitting in a few days and she said she could hook me up on some fish, I know that you have to cycle a tank before you put fish in but what is the minimum cylce time? She quits in 3 days, I take it thats not long enough?
Is there anything I can do because she can/will give me whatever I want and it would be nice to get em for free!

[OrionGirl]

See if you can get some Bio-Spira. It's a valid additive for quicker cycling of a tank--you still need to do testing and water changes, but it really does work, apparently. I haven't heard of another additive sold for cycling that is effective.

[Dangerdoll]

while the snails are the optimum food source for these guys, frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp are a tasty treat for them as well, my dwarves loved them both.

[Celura]

Bloodworms are an awesome staple food. I give mine live brine shrimp about once a week. They're good for a treat, but lack nutritional value.

All the same, my guys love the chase. :D

[OrionGirl]

Actually, live brine can be gut loaded--kept well fed and nutritional--by feeding them. Take a few bits of dry yeast, and activate them in a bit of warm sugar water. Let it get coudy, and feed to the live brine. Just a bit does it--be careful not to cloud the water too much. Green water works for a food source as well.

[LuckyJGuy]

What kind of testing do I need to do? Chances are I wont start until tomorrow, is that going to give me enough time?

[OrionGirl]

Testing for ammonia and nitrites. With Bi-Spira, the beneficial bacteria are introduced to the tank, and will successfully colonize as long as they have a food source--but it will still take time to get a full load. So, testing, with water changes to prevent ammonia and nitrite from spiking over 1 ppm, works.

Don't get TOO many fish in one tank--this will overload, and you'll have to do lots more water changes than if you stock more moderately. Still plan for the adult size of the fish!

[LuckyJGuy]

And in order to test do I use some kind of testing kit?
With Bi-Spira, the beneficial bacteria are introduced to the tank, and will successfully colonize as long as they have a food source

Food that is naturally in water or some kind of additive?

Also to address my other post about getting fish soon, there is probably no chance I can get the twenty I was thinking about getting, so all I have is a 10g for now. If I put two or three DP's, the red tailed shark and a couple Tiger Barbs would that be ok for a couple weeks until I could pick up the 20(or 30 if I decide on it?) They wont be in the 10g very long, two weeks max. Is that ok or should I reduce the number?

Also; do I acclimate all the fish together?

[OrionGirl]

Yep. Most LFS sell test kits. There are some kits that include the ones you'll want--ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and the big ones, and GH and KH are good to have around.

Food--ammonia is the food source for the first group of bacteria you want. This is a natural waste product of fish, and from waste decomposing. Bacteria break ammonia down into nitrites. Nitrites are food for another group of bacteria, which break them down into nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish even in low levels, while nitrates are not toxic but are indicators of other , non-testable, waste products.

[LuckyJGuy]

So where do I get the first "batch" of ammonia to start the cycle?

[JesseJ]

There is a couple of ways to get it.

Fish produce wastes that turn into ammonia. But that takes time and the fish have to live in the wastes until bacteria takes care of it.

You can put fish food in the tank and let it rot and it will produce wastes/ammonia. But that take time.

You can buy pure ammonia from a store. Just be sure that it is unscented, undyed (sp?), 100% pure ammonia. be careful how much you add though. In a smaller tank a few drops will probibly do.

There are more but those are the easiest.