Which Filter to use m?

[johngp]

Hi

Im looking for advice regarding filtration for my 512ltr/112UK Gallon reef setup. Im consider an Ehiem professional Wet/Dry filter (2329) for which the literature says its good for 600ltr systems.

I do have an option of installing a traditional sump trickle filter but am unsure which system will be the best for what I want. I intend my stock to be 30+kg of live rock, hard and soft corals and a few small reef fish. I will be running a power skimmer, UV etc

I would be grateful for your thoughts on the efficiency of the two systems and which you think from experience I should use.

Many thanks = John Parker (Swindon - UK)

[OrionGirl]

While I've had good luck with Ehiem's, I don't like them on SW setups. The bacterial filtration of the live rock, plus a good skimmer, will be miles ahead of a traditional filter in terms of effectiveness and maintenance. In short--I wouldn't use one.

Why are you putting in a UV sterilizer? Running them in a reef essentially kills off most of your micro-fauna--not a good thing.

[johngp]

Thanks - good point on the UV steriliser.

What do you think of a standard trickle filter set up in a sump ?

I intend to provide as much live rock as poss.

[OrionGirl]

I don't run any power filters on my tank. The problen with most of them is they accumulate and concentrate solid wastes in areas inaccessible to most cleaners--meaning you have to clean the media frequently to prevent nitrates from rising (the bacteria can easily accomodate more ammonia and nitrite, but since nitrate production is always higher than ammonia/nitrite, it's harder to keep a large enoug colony). So, this means more work! I'm against that.

Trickle filters are, IMO, much worse than canisters since there is so much area where your cleaners will be useless. Unless you are willing to clean the media frequently, you may be causing yourself a big headache down the line. JMO!

If it makes you feel better: my 2 120 SW tanks are running with the following equipment: about 140 pounds of live rock. 4 powerheads. 30 gallons of water in a 55 gallon sump, mag-drive pump for the returns, heaters. Lights. There's a skimmer on the reef tank. And that is it. All the fish are healthy and active, the corals in the reef are growing faster than they can be fragged. There is a sponge in the sump of the reef, but more for emergency use in a quarantine tank than anything else.

[johngp]

This info is fantastic just the sort of opinion based on experience Im looking for - particularily as its saving me money.

Just one question - how to start the bacterial action in such a tank, did you:

- add live rock and then leave to mature for a period of time (if so how much and for how long ?)

- or, did you start with a mechanical filter which you removed as the rock took over ?

Sorry for so many questions but your experience is much appreciated !.

[OrionGirl]

Here's my method:

Add a layer of base rock in the locations you want to place the live rock. For example, two large piles in the corners, or a big on in the middle, etc. Put the lace rock in the general area, then cover with sand. Fill with water (put a bowl or plate on the sand and pour into this to reduce the sand storm). Bring to temp, + 2-3 degrees. Throw in 2-3 raw, cocktail deli shrimp (more for bigger tanks, I used 8 for the 120's). Once ammonia shows up, I put in a handful of live rock rubble--tiny pieces, typically don't have much in the way of critters, but introduces some bacteria. Test ammonia every third or fourth day. Once the ammonia titer hits 5ppm, I remove the remnants of the cocktail shrimp. Start testing nitrites at this time. When nitrites and ammonia hit 0, do a large water change to reduce nitrates, add cured live rock, and start stocking.

Or, you can use uncured live rock--add it when nitrites first start to decline, as long as ammonia is low. Nitrites are not toxic in SW, while ammonia is very much so. This means that the hitchhikers on your uncured rock will have a better chance of surviving, since the existing bacteria will help keep ammonia levels low.

However, it is very, very important to realize that the bacteria WILL GROW, even without any innoculation from live rock or another source. Miracle of life and all that--they will show up and start working. Introducing colonies just speeds the process up a bit.

[johngp]

Hi again, sorry to appear dense, but can I just clarify - do I initially put the bare rock and lace rock into a bare tank and then cover with sand (to a depth of say 4") or do I place the sand in first and place the rock on the sand. Im sorry of this appears a daft question but I want to get it right.

I understood the rest of your reply.. Thanks.

[wayne]

Beware lace rock. I've seen a couple of things described as this, and they have very different results. Lace rock in the states is often a limstone, in the uk it's typically a volcanic tuff, or an artificial tuff. Don't use these things - they are composed of metal rich silicate minerals that are only stable in high temperature , dry conditions. Put them in saltwater and they deteriorate quite quickly, causing unsolvable algae problems.
And yes this includes all those nice, holey, semi volcanic rocks you see in the lfs

[OrionGirl]

I put the rock in first, then cover with sand. This provides a stable platform that won't shift, distributes the weight of the live rock, and helps keep things stable if you get a fish that digs.