Life of Eheim Canister Filter Media

[Rocketman]

Hey, how often should I replace the media on my Eheim Cansiter that I will be getting from Bigals soon? It will be an Eheim 2215 Classic. I was told to get Ehfisynth, Ehfisubstrat, Ehfifix, and Ehfimech, 2 inches of each. First, how often should I replace these? I know a lot of this depends on the fish, but I have no experience with canisters so I don't know if they plug up like the Power Filters I use now, or if there is some other way... Also, should I get 1 Liter or 5 Liters of the Ehfimech, (Ceramic Noodles.) The 1 Liter is $5.99 and the 5 Liters are $24.99, in american dollars. The shipping is already at the top of the chart, so that price will not increase any.
Thank you.

[MP]

I'd just fill it with Ehfimech or similar ceramic noodles.
Check http://www.tomgriffin.com/aquamag/cannister.html

[bayoupr]

You shouldn't need anything at first. They come with media. My 2217's came with the media. I've had mine for 8 months and cleaned them twice. Depends on how many fish you have and the amount of debris. When you notice your water flow diminishing, then its time to clean.

[Rocketman]

Alright someone mentioned something about the filter coming with the media, but I don't believe mine does. It is listed on Big Al's as 'Eheim Filter 2215 Plus Kit' for $89.99 American. So, I don't assume there is any media in this filter, as it doesn't specify 'with media' like the other filters do. Which rings me to yet another question: what is a 'plus kit'? And I still have the question of whether or not I should order 1L or 5L of the Ceramic Noodles? Someone mentioned filling it all up with ceramic noodles, what gives?

[Rocketman]

I just realized something: I can get the Eheim 2215 Classic, rated 90 Gallons, for $89.99 and the media for an additional $46.46, to make a total of $136.45. Or I could buy the Eheim 2026 Professional II Filter with Media for $149.99, an extra $13.54. The shipping amount is already topped out so that is not an issue. Also note that the Eheim Professional has tons of other features, self-priming, flow valves, auto valve release... not to mention the media, which I assume they are suppling me with all the media I need.

[krowland]

I don't know anything about the 2215 CLassic, but I'd probably go for the 2026 Pro II just for the self priming aspect. Some of the older Eheims were a bit of a challenge to prime. I'm running 2 2028 Pro II's and they set and prime very easily.

[Harry Tolen]

The Eheim 2026 will be much easier to maintain and is a more durable design, although in the long run you will want to use just ceramic noodles and bioballs, as opposed to the proprietary stuff that Eheim sells which unfortunately loses much of its effectiveness after a relatively short period of time.

The Eheim canister "system" relies primarily on little nuggets of sintered glass which grind against each other and macerate the detritus so that theoretically it breaks down faster. Their polyfiber media is primarily intended on intercepting the little pieces of broken glass before they get back into your tank. And all of the above clog and lose much of their biofiltration capacity after 6 months or so (probably there's some variation in there based on the bioload of your tank and whether or not you use a prefilter to keep goop out of your filter, but I've never really experimented with it to know exactly).

Anyway, replacing this specialized media can cost you up to $100/year, which does nothing but enrich Eheim unnecessarily. RTR (a prime proponent of Eheim filtration on these boards, if not the actual high priest; I myself use Eheims and Fluvals interchangeably and am thus somewhat more, um, ecumenical in my approach) has, in previous posts, recommended Duplakascade bioballs and ceramic noodles as a better media combination, and one that never needs to be replaced, to boot.

[goldfish freak]

Harry Tolen do you something to seperate the ceramic noodles from the bioballs in your filter or do you simply place the bioballs on top of the noodles?

[Harry Tolen]

Where the filter has baskets, I use 'em. But some of the older Eheims don't (for example the 2260, which is still my workhorse for larger tanks). When there are baskets, I simply remove them and dump buckets of tank water through them until they run clear; when there are no baskets, I manually remove the bioballs, rinse them in tank water separately, and then dump water over the noodles still in the filter until the remaining detritus runs out the bottom valve.

[famman]

You only need to replace 1/3 of ehfisubstrat each 4-6 months or so, more like $12-$15 year. The other filter material is nearly permenant or inexpensive.
I like the idea of permenant substrate, but they still don't provide the bacterial colony density that ehfisubstrat provides.
The gravel nuggets (sintered glass) are not meant to grind together to break up deitrus, that what noodles are for.
I seperate my noodles from substrate with coarse pad or ehfifix.
As for 2 inches each, that should be adjusted to your needs but is a good place to start.
good luck
:)

[Rocketman]

RTR has talked to me a little... he may use bio-balls, but that is becuase he is only using his canisters for bio-filtration. I need mine for all 3.

$12-$15 a year for replacement media isnt bad. It seems that if I replace the ceramic noodles 1/3 every 4-6 months, the pads are pretty cheap, about $3 each. Its the plastic wool-like strands I worry about. Since they come with the 2026, why not use them untill the first load runs out, then substitute them with something else? But what?

[Harry Tolen]

Well, I think you are underestimating both the expense and inconvenience of replacing part of your filter media in order to maintain maximum efficiency, but that's up to you. Even on the tanks in my house with Eheims, I use the Eheim for biofiltration only and Aquaclear HOB filters to do the mechanical work (in ACs loaded with sponges, the annual media cost is zero). In fact, on most tanks (i.e. the ones that are not 125G plus), I use only HOBs. Good luck with your setup, however.

[RTR]

Pretty much agree w/Harry's comments (other than about Fluval of course ;) detail on that later). I do separate bio and mech fitration because it gives me better water quality - I can get debris out of the tank before it is digested - by frequent mech rinses, and leave bio untouched for months. I will not, would not, open any external canister weekly for cleaning - too much hassle for me.

I am neurotic about permanent media - it is a thing with me.

I have been an Eheim user forever, or nearly so. Quite a number of years ago I made the decision to reduce the number of brands I have to keep parts and components for, and to reduce media replacement. Eheim was and is my favorite, so that was the one to keep. When you operate many tanks (then 30-40, most display) it matters. I have used and still have a number of Fluval 2 internals that I use for mech only on small tanks, but the current Eheim internals are sooo much easier to maintain that I will not replace the fluvals is they die - but they have been reliable. I have never tested the Fuvals of the current production type - when you have dozens of one brand, adding one of a few of another is just not worth it - why would I unless they were far superior? I still have Eheims in daily use much older than the Fluval company.

Eheim suggests using fine fiber after Ehfisubtrat to protect the impeller and pump head from glass particles from the material - I promise you, you don't want to have to replace the head/motor of an Eheim. That fiber alone would/could defeat my long-term bio only, as it would/could clog with just shed biofilms from the canister and the Ehfisubstrat external surfaces. By using Minikaskade I avoid the issue completely. The primary reason for opening my bio-only canisters is to clean the impeller and its chamber, and the tubing. The Ehfimech-loaded units may need a bit of a rinse after a number of months.

[Rocketman]

You guys are confusing me a very lot.
What do I put in a new canister so that it can serve as a mech. and bio filter, for the lowest, (even if a little high) cost? And high convience.

[RTR]

If you are doing a single tank, single canister, follow Eheim's suggestions and do the peridic replacement of the Ehfisubstrt and the fine pad.

When you are doing multiple tanks, many canisters, then you may reconsider in favor of permanent media.

I'd consider $12-15/yr trivial but if you run a couple of dozen canisters - that's another tank purchase level and non-trivial.

[Rocketman]

Thank you so much RTR. I've been busy lately, and just got back on here.

[Gumby7]

Originally posted by RTR

.... By using Minikaskade I avoid the issue completely. .....

Has anyone used other plastic bio balls (i.e. ones available in north america)?


I see several types at www.drsfostersmith.com - like Lee's Bio-Pin Balls and (brand?) Bio-Pak.

Gumby7

[RTR]

Gumby - Both of the products you pointed out are for emerse use, as in W/Ds, not submerse in canisters.

Dupla products are available in the USA again. Hawaiian Marine is the importer/distributor now.

[JSchmidt]

Actually, I use Lee's Bio-Pin balls (or whatever they're called) in my canisters that are packed for biofiltration only. They work very well: they don't clog; if you're careful, you can pack them quite tightly; and they seem to provide sufficient sites for colonization. Sometimes, I throw in some Ehfimech into any voids left by the bioballs, but the seem to work.

I also use something called BioPak (or something like that) that is basically orange, interlocking 'balls' (they kind of look like those jacks that kids play with). They seem to work well, too.

I'd like to try some of the Dupla mini-balls, but they aren't cheap and have only recently become available again. (Some of us don't have our own private stockpile.... ;) )

HTH,
Jim

[RTR]

Hey Jim, you should have been around when Jon shut down the import business - lots of goodies available then. I did not even take the stockpile until the last minute. ;)

[Gumby7]

Originally posted by JSchmidt
Actually, I use Lee's Bio-Pin balls (or whatever they're called) in my canisters that are packed for biofiltration only.
...

I also use something called BioPak (or something like that) that is basically orange, interlocking 'balls' (they kind of look like those jacks that kids play with). They seem to work well, too.
...

Jim

Yes, those BioPak orange thingies say "An ideal filter medium for use in pressure, canister, box, pond, wet/dry or trickle filters."

Gumby7

[RTR]

But I'm curious as to their being self cleaning. How do they look long-term Jim?

[superjohnny]

I am certainly no source for the best knowledge, but I have a Fluval canister that almost never needs cleaning. It has 3 'chambers' for filter material and I use ceramic noodles in the bottom 2 and a big porus pad thingy (I don't know what it's called, pardon my ignorance). Noodles don't have to be replaced and the pad can be cleaned with a good rinse. My nitrates are always very low, near 0 so I guess I 'm getting good bio filtration. Proof's in the puddin' :D

I'm too cheap to get into a $12/year for media repalcement, life has too many other things reaching into my wallet.

[JSchmidt]

Originally posted by RTR
But I'm curious as to their being self cleaning. How do they look long-term Jim?

My BioPak don't accumulate any more crud than does Ehfimech. It usually looks quite good when I break down the canisters.

Jim

[RTR]

Thanks Jim, handy to know.