Power Lift Canopy Ideas

beviking

Senior Member, Sophomoric Attitude
Feb 16, 2002
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Syracuse, NY
I'm brainstorming my DIY stand/canopy for a 92 corner tank. Since the two sides will be against walls (and the tank is 34.25" from front to back corner), I was thinking of using flat stock steel in a track on each side that runs from the stand to the canopy. I plan on building the canopy as I did my other one out of 3/4" framing with a luan skin. It'll have 3 55W PC lights in it so it shouldn't be very heavy. I know there are motorized gears/power lift cylinders etc but haven't had much experience with them.
I want to be able to raise the canopy at the push of a button when needed (12"-18"). There will be a hinged front for daily feeding so it isn't something that is going to be used every day...at least not once I'm done showing all my friends, family, and neighbors!!!! :dance:
Any ideas? :look:
 
My two cents is save your money for something better. Put it towards a better filtration unit or something for your fish well being, not towards your laziness to open a tank lid. But if you must, find some kind of linear actuator. www.selectproducts.com has some but your just introducing something else that can be damaged by water and/or worse damaging your fish or tank.
 
if you have the money to burn and you really are that lazy and you dont wanna lift the lid by urself or if you just like to show off your gadgets to friends, then i say go for it. but other than that i think its a waste or time and money. there's so much better stuff that you can be wasting your money on... like explosives, mwhahahahahahahaha
 
does this have to work from the stand itself? or could you use something attached to the ceiling to pull it up?

I have seen a number of pully systems that either ran with a motor or raised by hand and tied off at the level you need it. I have to admit I don't have a situation like this so didn't pay much attention to how those worked specificly.
 
Well Snake, seems at least YOU can read! People...I'm looking at lifting the entire hood off the tank, NOT just lifting the lid. IF I want to get into the tank for serious re-arranging, pulling out a large piece of decor etc.... Sure, I can just lift the entire hood off, set it aside, but thought I'd investigate other alternatives....geesh! But thanks for the comments anyway. The actuators at the car site are too much $.

The ceiling pulley system is out. Vaulted ceiling with tongue/groove woodwork...I just don't think it would work aesthetically.

Grainger has some small powered motors with low rpm, decent torque(~6 each). If I can get a couple gears, find/make a toothed actuator arm and track, a 3 way rocker switch...
 
I'd look at hydraulics--like go on the door for a car trunk. Wouldn't need a motor, just set up a sturdy frame that would stay around the tank and not limit access to tie the lid into so it will swing up and out of the way. We considered something similar with the 120's, but didn't have the overhead room--the main level has vaulted ceilings, but of course the big tanks are downstairs, with lower ceilings.
 
If you're serious about this, here are a few things to consider. If you're looking to vertically lift a 48"x 24" or larger cover, and you don't want 'ugly' assemblies at the two front corners, you're talking about a mechanism which attaches at the two rear corners only. This mechanism is not only going to have to handle the vertical lift, but it will also have to handle a fair amount of 'torque' because the tank cover appears as an unbalanced overhung load to the mechanism.

To support the cover weight and torque without bending problems, you're probably talking about something like two 1"x 3" aluminum square tubes, running from floor to ceiling behind each corner. You'd then need a cover attachment assembly with two pairs of 1"+ wide flat bottom rollers spaced about 24" apart to 'ride' on each square tube. You could put say a 4" diameter U groove pulley near the top of each square tube, with cables (i.e. small plastic coated steel clothesline cable) starting at each cover attachment assembly, then going up over the top pulleys, then down the back side of each square tube, and both cables finally attaching to a common winding pipe (maybe 2" diameter) set on two bearings (one bearing mounted near the bottom of each square tube) and driven by your gearmotor via a timing belt pulley at the center or either far end of the winding pipe. You need to use a common winding pipe or some other single mechanism to make sure that both corners always move together in unison, or the mechanism will jam up. Also, be sure to get a worm gearbox so gravity doesn't take over when you shut the motor off ! Fairly cheap and not too ugly, but the cover attachment assemblies would take a bit of fabrication. Many parts could be made of PVC or acrylic though, which would allow for easy 'machining' and glueing which might come in particularly handy for the 8 flat bottom rollers with extended flanges needed to 'ride' on the square tubing.

If you don't like the idea of cables and pulleys, the same basic idea would work with a gear rack and pinion set halfway between the two square tubes, but then the gearmotor would have to move up and down along with the cover. You'd also probably want to think in terms of a brake-motor because you don't want the whole thing coming down on you when you're bent over the side of the open tank! You could also use a pneumatic cylinder halfway between the two square tubes, but it's difficult to get a smooth motion and you need a compressed air supply. You could also use a hydraulic cylinder halfway between the two square tubes, but then you need an oil pump and tank and valve plus having to deal with the mess when oil leaks develop (and they always do).

Just some ideas
~
 
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Awesome reply melonie! Thanks! I haven't given up completely yet, but I'm leaning that way.
The only reason I thought this idea feasible was that it's a CORNER tank. Two walls at 90degrees fill the corner and a bowed front...a 1/4 cylinder. I was thinking a mechanism on each wall (side) would be out of sight and since I'm building the canopy I could balance it however I needed to, so maybe....
Hmm, thanks for the ideas!
 
How about this for a thought, it wouldnt be powered but it would be easy to lift/lower.

Going back to the car trunk piston thingys - if its a corner tank, build the stand with 3 hollow columns, one at each corner. Inside each is one of the pistons which would allow the hood to be lifted with ease. If you managed to find 3 pistons of the right power then it would be correct for the weight of the hood and make it easy to lift or lower.
 
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