on C02, UV, and lights....

Walker_

AC Members
Feb 10, 2005
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Left Coast, Canada
Hey there folks.... I was wondering if there were any suggestions as to what is better, C02 with a bubble regulator, or on a PH control... I don't mind spending a bit more if the system would be better off being automated, but I just wanted to be sure it was actually better, and not just some technology that was invented to make some guy rich...

Suggestions as to the best place to buy one ?(which ever you think is better)

Also I am thinking of a UV sterilizer... The tank I am setting up has perhaps a tad bit too much light.... well Ill be honest, WAY too much (aprox 10wpg), and Im worried about algae, I will be running a Diatom on and off throughout the day ( on a timer,) but would a sterilizer be a good idea? I heard a rumor they "may" cause trouble with plants... (something about they destroy some nutrients)

-walk
 
Walker_ said:
Hey there folks.... I was wondering if there were any suggestions as to what is better, C02 with a bubble regulator, or on a PH control... I don't mind spending a bit more if the system would be better off being automated, but I just wanted to be sure it was actually better, and not just some technology that was invented to make some guy rich...

Suggestions as to the best place to buy one ?(which ever you think is better)

Also I am thinking of a UV sterilizer... The tank I am setting up has perhaps a tad bit too much light.... well Ill be honest, WAY too much (aprox 10wpg), and Im worried about algae, I will be running a Diatom on and off throughout the day ( on a timer,) but would a sterilizer be a good idea? I heard a rumor they "may" cause trouble with plants... (something about they destroy some nutrients)

-walk

First off, good luck fighting algae at 10 watts per gallon of lighting.
:eek:

Secondly, ditch the UV sterilzer, as it will just kill off any nutrients in the tank the plants need, and thus starve them, especially with that much light.

As for C02, id never buy a PH controller, as it's a waste of money imo. When i got my pressurized C02, i tweaked it until it hit 30ppm of concentration in my water, and have never touched it since. Bubble counter is what i use!

Id really cut back on the lighting though, as i really think it may be impossible to avoid algae with that much lighting, despite have C02........
 
THANKS!

that was fast btw, less than 5 min!

ok then, no UV, and no PH solenoid...


For the lighting, I have 2 400w HM, (this is a 90 gal) and then I was planning on putting in a few florescents, say 100w or so... I was thinking, if I keep the florescents on all day and only fire the big guns for say 3 or 4 hrs, this should probably get the job done right?

-walk
 
Walker_ said:
THANKS!

that was fast btw, less than 5 min!

ok then, no UV, and no PH solenoid...


For the lighting, I have 2 400w HM, (this is a 90 gal) and then I was planning on putting in a few florescents, say 100w or so... I was thinking, if I keep the florescents on all day and only fire the big guns for say 3 or 4 hrs, this should probably get the job done right?

-walk

Lets just say, ive got no where to go tonight......... :D

Anyways, why not just sell off the florescents, and one MH, and run a single MH. 400 watts would give you just over 4 watts per gallon, and be much more managable. You could run the two MH for just 3-4 hours, but one of two or both will still happen......

1. You may still get tons of algae
2. high light Plants won't get enough light from the 100 watt Florescent for the other 6-8 hours.
 
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Firstly I think you will be fine with just two MH at 400w each. Even at that wattage it will still not be as bright as the sun, unless you were to put them only a few inches away from the water, which would not be practical anyway, due the heat generated by them. My advise is to use the MH for a normal photo period, just move them a little further away from the tank, maybe 30-40 inches would be good. MH have a tendency to focus on one point, so when the center of the light has ample light the outskirts are far below the recomended level, so put them higher will ensure even light over the tank. Make sure you get the nutrients balanced, put some fast growing light loving plants in there and they will out compete the algae for nutrients without a problem.
As for pH controler they are worth every penny ,I use one one all of my tanks, once you have used one you will never go back. And I am sorry to say but Co2 needs for plant will vary from day to day and as the plant bio-mass increases so will there need for Co2, so tweaking it once and leaving at that level is a bad example in my hummble opinion. :)
 
ok cool guys, thanks.... any idea of a good place to get some C02 gear.... I think the guy at the LFS is trying to rip me off... $500 for a reg and PH sensor seems a bit off......
 
Try looking for a pin point ph controler , they should be much cheaper than that. You should be able to get something for a little cheaper, but maybe your lfs is selling good stuff.
 
Gotta love a person that says "...in my hummble opinion." and has all this...
1850g Cichlid tank (in wall acrylic)Algal turf scrubber fillted
400g Planted with CO2
200g Breeding tank(Cichlid)
50g Fish with 50g planted refugium
100g Hospital tank
50g Miscellaneous

:eek:

I tend to agree with ashdavid. If you're aware of the cost (probes need to be replaced periodically too) and can do it, fully automated is the way to go. Of course, more gadgets means a potential for more to go wrong but I have no xp with it...
Why not just get another 90gal and split the lighting between the two! :idea2:
As for equipment, try a "google" search...you'll get tons of sites.
Good luck!
 
beviking you are a ledgend!!! :)
 
I can attest that 400 watts of MH will do you well, even on a very tall tank.
240_3_15_small.jpg

This one has two 400W MHs, but you get the idea. Over a 90, just one of those will do wonders.
 
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