pH is up to 9! How to drop it?

[hadjici2]

I have a 30 gallon tank (120 litres) with the following setup for the past 4 years:

1. Layers of substrate and fine gravel, which I don't know what the substrate is.
2. A driftwood
3. 3 species of plants that are hardy since they are the only plants that managed to survive a period where I completely neglected the tank. One of the species is Valesneria I think which is a fast grower, green leaved long plant. The other specie I think is Baby Tears or something. Forgive me for I do not know the names of the three species of plant I have for 3 years now.
4. Just purchased 4 mollies and recently one of them gave birth to around 20 babies.
5. kH 4
6. pH 8 - 9
7. One 25 watt Arcadia fluorescent lamp (Pink colour)
8. Two 25 watt Arcadia fluorescent lamp (White colour)
9. The tank has no top and the lamps are adjusted 30 cm above water level, where the depth of the tank is around 42 cm
10. Due to the hot climate in the summer, now my tank has a temperature of 31 degrees celcius and is not exposed to any sunlight at all.

How can I lower the pH? The tank is running for 2 weeks now, is that enough time for pH to begin to drop? Does pH really begin to drop as soon as the tank is established?

PS: my local water here is pH 9

[FishSeller]

You have a few options for lowering your Ph, though it's not totally necessary. First, CO2 injection will naturally lower your Ph. Second, peat moss in a mesh bag placed in your filter will also bring it down. Finally, replacing a fairly large percentage of your water with reverse osmosis water will allow you to bring your ph to whatever level you desire. On a side note, I would check your substrate and rocks for ph altering materials. You can do this by scratching your decorations with a nail. If it deteriorates, you can bet that they are bringing your ph up. You can also test your substrate and decorations by pouring an acidic substance such as vinegar on them. If they foam or bubble, they are altering your ph as well.
I would avoid trying to bring your ph down by using commercial ph lowering agents. Your ph is driven by your water's hardness. Hard water equals high ph. Until your hardness is lowered, your ph will remain high.

[Kasakato]

What kind of test kit are you using?

[hadjici2]

What kind of test kit are you using?


Waterlife Broad-range....

[Kasakato]

Is that a liquid one, and a strip one?

[hadjici2]

Is that a liquid one, and a strip one?


liguid one...

[Kasakato]

Try this one: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19383;category_id=3111;pcid 1=3233;pcid2=

Something could be wrong with the one you have.

[djlen]

Or.......you could take a test sample to a reliable LFS and have them test not only for pH, but for N and P while you're there.
You don't need to lower your pH unless you intend to breed fish. Most fish and plants will adapt to what you have, and since it's coming out of your tap at 8 - 9 why fight it?
Peat, CO2, or some varieties of bog wood will lower pH for you.
I'd advise strongly against 'pH buffers' or other chemicals. They will create more problems than they will solve.

Len

[Kasakato]

You can do what Len said too, but you will sstill need a test kit later on.

[hadjici2]

I wouldn't change my pH with driftwood or any temporal manners....I would rather change it through methods that will remain stable and are natural....eg through bacteria.....anyone knows how to accomplish something as such?

[Kissofthegorami]

Find out what kind of substrate u have. And I agree with tying a different test kit. Some of the chemicals expire.

[RTR]

Playing with pH without knowing the KH of the water supply is an exercise in futility. And I do agree that attempting water mods without a solid requirement to do so is a wasted effort. If your water supply is extremely hard, you will not be able to breed blackwater fish without an RO unit, and wasting 4-5 gallons of tap water for every one that you use. To me, that is not worth it for just keeping a display tank.

A KH of 4 will not give a high pH. Some other factor is involved - either substrate or rocks, or non-carbonate buffers added to the water supply by the utility.