Beginner questions

[Hannys_Papa]

I just recently got into the aquarium hobby and asked a question about how to clean a used tank on this messageboard and wanted to say i really appreciated the quick and friendly answers and now am back with more questions. After reading several 100s of threads and repeatedly coming across people emphasizing its ok to ask... well... this post might be a bit longer but i hope it'll be ok. Please excuse it if a few of my questions seem really naive :-)

1) The tank i got has a hood meant for 2 incandecent lights. They get pretty hot and i thought about replacing them with just 1 mini flourescent lamps like this. (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=23463;category_id=1857;pcid 1=1843;pcid2=)
Question is - with a 10Gal tank and a 10W bulb putting out about "50W of light" - is that going to be too bright ? I cant seem to find any with less light output.

2) Connected to 1) if i have a tank with fake plants and FW fish - should i get the lamp in the link above or one of the 50/50 corallife. I read a lot about lighting and algea growth - which i want to keep as low as possible. Whats the best type for that ?

3) The fake plants i have have the little cups on the bottom that have to be held down with gravel. I read that thats not the greatest solution - plants get pulled out of the gravel too easily when doing gravel vacuuming. Is there any DIY idea of how to modify them (fill the cups in with something heavy) that eliminates that problem but is safe to use inside a fish tank.

4) I have a whisper filter that i got with the 10G tank. After reading and learning about the cycle/ bacteria i am wondering how bad the impact of replacing the filterbag every X weeks is. Do the bacteria in the rest of the tank/ filter keep the tank going or do i risk a setback every time. Should i modify the whisper filter by adding a piece of foam in the filter/ filterbag or a bag with porous "balls" (or whatever that stuff is called) and move it over from an old filterbag to the new when its time for a change? Are there any good ideas or proven methods for mods for these smaller filters ?

5) Does it matter if the water that runs out of the filter "falls" into the water like a waterfall (splashing noise) or just runs into it (basically no noise). It kinda goes hand in hand with the question of where the water level in the tank should be - all the way up or 1-2 inches below the top.

6) I want to do a fishless cycle by adding ammonia. Everyone says it can be found at walmart - i looked everywhere - no success (asking anyone that works there - forget it. They point you to windex w/ ammonia.) What part of walmart should it be in. Where else can i find some pure ammonia if our walmart doesnt carry it.

7) Beside the 10G i got a hold of a 5G acrylic that i thought about making home to a betta. Now the problem is i know it was cleaned with "Mr Clean" - from what i read a big no no to do in fishtanks. I rinsed it for probably 2 hours but i guess i am not sure if i want to put a fish in it. If i filled it with water and install a filter with a bag full of activated carbon and let it run for several weeks would the carbon be able to filter any leftover chemicals out of the water ? What exactly is carbon good for ?
Either way if anyone thinks its best not to risk it then i'll just get rid of the tank. I am still curious though on what exactly the carbon can filter out of (any) water.

8) The lady at the LFS is very friendly and tries to be helpful but doesnt ask much of the questions that a "good" fish store would ask before selling you something (which i can understand to a certain point - we all need to make a living and i dont think the fish business is going to well in my area). She also seems to be a lot into the "if the water isnt right add some of this and that - everything can be taken care of with chemicals" - approach. The more i read the more i come to believe the less chemicals the better.
Now the actual question is - is there a certain place where i might be able to find out about fish clubs (or anyone into this hobby that could help me with beginner problems) etc in my specific area ? I googled for hours without sucess.

Somehow i thought i had a few more questions but now i dont remember them anymore. :-( I guess some have to do with what fish i'll be able to have within the given water parameters in our area. pH is relatively high +-7.4, soft water (or so the guy from the water department says). But seeing that i still have several weeks of cycling ahead this isnt so pressing right now....

Either way thanks in advance for reading through my lengthy post (i am a moderator in a very busy technology forum and know some people dont like long posts), possibly providing me with a few answers and apologies for my grammar/ spelling - english is not my native language. Thanks

[bob1962]

I just recently got into the aquarium hobby and asked a question about how to clean a used tank on this messageboard and wanted to say i really appreciated the quick and friendly answers and now am back with more questions. After reading several 100s of threads and repeatedly coming across people emphasizing its ok to ask... well... this post might be a bit longer but i hope it'll be ok. Please excuse it if a few of my questions seem really naive :-)

1) The tank i got has a hood meant for 2 incandecent lights. They get pretty hot and i thought about replacing them with just 1 mini flourescent lamps like this. (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=23463;category_id=1857;pcid 1=1843;pcid2=)
Question is - with a 10Gal tank and a 10W bulb putting out about "50W of light" - is that going to be too bright ? I cant seem to find any with less light output.

They should be fine.

2) Connected to 1) if i have a tank with fake plants and FW fish - should i get the lamp in the link above or one of the 50/50 corallife. I read a lot about lighting and algea growth - which i want to keep as low as possible. Whats the best type for that ?

Algae will not grow unless you have a high nitrate load. Keep the nitrates down and the algae will be down, also dont put your tank in the sun.

3) The fake plants i have have the little cups on the bottom that have to be held down with gravel. I read that thats not the greatest solution - plants get pulled out of the gravel too easily when doing gravel vacuuming. Is there any DIY idea of how to modify them (fill the cups in with something heavy) that eliminates that problem but is safe to use inside a fish tank.

I use live plants, but if you be careful around them, they should not pull out, I used to use them when I was a kid.

4) I have a whisper filter that i got with the 10G tank. After reading and learning about the cycle/ bacteria i am wondering how bad the impact of replacing the filterbag every X weeks is. Do the bacteria in the rest of the tank/ filter keep the tank going or do i risk a setback every time. Should i modify the whisper filter by adding a piece of foam in the filter/ filterbag or a bag with porous "balls" (or whatever that stuff is called) and move it over from an old filterbag to the new when its time for a change? Are there any good ideas or proven methods for mods for these smaller filters ?

The Filter frame and the filter will hold on to some of the benificial bacteria.

5) Does it matter if the water that runs out of the filter "falls" into the water like a waterfall (splashing noise) or just runs into it (basically no noise). It kinda goes hand in hand with the question of where the water level in the tank should be - all the way up or 1-2 inches below the top.

The water fall will create movement which is ok, but your pump will have to work harder to lift the water. Full to the rim looks nice and you dont get a scaley line at the water level.

6) I want to do a fishless cycle by adding ammonia. Everyone says it can be found at walmart - i looked everywhere - no success (asking anyone that works there - forget it. They point you to windex w/ ammonia.) What part of walmart should it be in. Where else can i find some pure ammonia if our walmart doesnt carry it.

I set up my aquarium by adding feeder fish for a month. They poop, and get things going in a natural way.

7) Beside the 10G i got a hold of a 5G acrylic that i thought about making home to a betta. Now the problem is i know it was cleaned with "Mr Clean" - from what i read a big no no to do in fishtanks. I rinsed it for probably 2 hours but i guess i am not sure if i want to put a fish in it. If i filled it with water and install a filter with a bag full of activated carbon and let it run for several weeks would the carbon be able to filter any leftover chemicals out of the water ? What exactly is carbon good for ?
Either way if anyone thinks its best not to risk it then i'll just get rid of the tank. I am still curious though on what exactly the carbon can filter out of (any) water.

The carbon will clarify the water and remove any pollutants. Again a few feeder fish would help the cycle in that tank as well.

8) The lady at the LFS is very friendly and tries to be helpful but doesnt ask much of the questions that a "good" fish store would ask before selling you something (which i can understand to a certain point - we all need to make a living and i dont think the fish business is going to well in my area). She also seems to be a lot into the "if the water isnt right add some of this and that - everything can be taken care of with chemicals" - approach. The more i read the more i come to believe the less chemicals the better.
Now the actual question is - is there a certain place where i might be able to find out about fish clubs (or anyone into this hobby that could help me with beginner problems) etc in my specific area ? I googled for hours without sucess.

The feeders are the best way to cycle your aquarium.


Somehow i thought i had a few more questions but now i dont remember them anymore. :-( I guess some have to do with what fish i'll be able to have within the given water parameters in our area. pH is relatively high +-7.4, soft water (or so the guy from the water department says). But seeing that i still have several weeks of cycling ahead this isnt so pressing right now....

Either way thanks in advance for reading through my lengthy post (i am a moderator in a very busy technology forum and know some people dont like long posts), possibly providing me with a few answers and apologies for my grammar/ spelling - english is not my native language. Thanks

Posts are always welcome here, and no post is a stupid one or a stupid question. Glad to give you my advice and good luck with your new aquariums.

[FisheyLisa]

On lighting, check what is the appropriate bulb for the hood wattage wise, and get something low light. A fixture that fits the hood...that 50/50 one, is for a 5g probably, i used to have one, and probably won't even fit the fixure in the hood. though I don't know what you have. You don't need high light and are tempting algae. Algae blooms are horrible and require a lot to fix, best to be proactive there.

You could probably weight the plant down with that lead suff they wrap around plants in the fish store, if yours have that. or put bigger rocks around it, that is how I anchor my plants root. But honestly, it is really probably easier to stick you hand in and push it back into the gravel. It, your hand, will already be wet anyway!!

I would recomend not using the carbon, and putting a sponge (fluval sponge from that brands filter, should fit well, and can be cut if it doesn't). If you do use the carbon, every 2 months you should change it, so that chemicals it removed don't leach/leech back into the tank. If you use the fluval sponge all you have to do is rinse it out every month or so and return that same sponge to the holder. Bacteria stays in place. If you start with new filtration media, you won't have bacteria on it...there should be enough in the rest of hte tank to manage, but I have never taken the chance.

Don't do all the cleaning at once!! change filters one week, vacuum REALLY well another, wash decor another, that will limit your bacteria probs.

I fill my tank right to the black plastic, so you can't see the water line. water trickle is good, it aerates the water so fish can breath and is recommended.

As for the acrylic tank, if you are still concerned, was it with bleach and rinse it well. But if it is squeaky clean to touch and you can't smell the product, and like you said you rinsed it for 2 hours, you should be fine. I used to wash my goldfish bowl weekly with soap and water, with no knowlege of what was going on, and the fish lived for a few years. So i think you've been appropriately careful.

I have heard others use biospira to cycle, you might want to do that instead of ammonia. i have no concept of it though.

You are right to through caution to adding a lot of chemicals. If you have city chlorinated tap, you need to condition it, but otherwise, most water problems can be fixed with a water change.

PS I think this site beats any fish club, you get very quick responses and ppl take the time to reply to the most naive questions...though there shouldn't be fear in th level of question, the only stupid one is the one you didn't ask...you are taking the time to educate yourself...and you've done it before you had the fish! KUDOS!

[mishi8]

4) I have a whisper filter that i got with the 10G tank. After reading and learning about the cycle/ bacteria i am wondering how bad the impact of replacing the filterbag every X weeks is. Do the bacteria in the rest of the tank/ filter keep the tank going or do i risk a setback every time. Should i modify the whisper filter by adding a piece of foam in the filter/ filterbag or a bag with porous "balls" (or whatever that stuff is called) and move it over from an old filterbag to the new when its time for a change? Are there any good ideas or proven methods for mods for these smaller filters ?

You can simply rinse your filter media in old tank water. That will remove the solid waste, but keep the bacterial colony intact. You shouldn't need to change the filter very often at all.


6) I want to do a fishless cycle by adding ammonia. Everyone says it can be found at walmart - i looked everywhere - no success (asking anyone that works there - forget it. They point you to windex w/ ammonia.) What part of walmart should it be in. Where else can i find some pure ammonia if our walmart doesnt carry it.

It depends on where you live. Walmart around here (Alberta) carries Goldex ammonia. I used it for my fishless cycle. You can also check at major grocers. Safeway also has house brand ammonia...just be careful to choose the bottle with no soaps or perfumes...look for only ammonia & water (chelating agents are okay too.)


8) The lady at the LFS is very friendly and tries to be helpful but doesnt ask much of the questions that a "good" fish store would ask before selling you something (which i can understand to a certain point - we all need to make a living and i dont think the fish business is going to well in my area). She also seems to be a lot into the "if the water isnt right add some of this and that - everything can be taken care of with chemicals" - approach. The more i read the more i come to believe the less chemicals the better.
Now the actual question is - is there a certain place where i might be able to find out about fish clubs (or anyone into this hobby that could help me with beginner problems) etc in my specific area ? I googled for hours without sucess.

Where do you live? There are many clubs for aquarists across North America. If you're in Canada try looking here first: The Canadian Association of Aquarium Clubs (http://www.caoac.on.ca/FramesetMain.html).


Somehow i thought i had a few more questions but now i dont remember them anymore. :-( I guess some have to do with what fish i'll be able to have within the given water parameters in our area. pH is relatively high +-7.4, soft water (or so the guy from the water department says). But seeing that i still have several weeks of cycling ahead this isnt so pressing right now....

pH 7.4 is fine for most fish. The key is to have a stable pH. Start with fishless cycling, and testing your water, and see what your levels are. Fishless is a great way to go! No fish are harmed in the process, and once the cycling is done, you should be able to add a full load of fish. Take the time to really research what type of fish you want in your tank. :)

[Holly9937]

Well, I'll answer what I can ;) !!
For the fake plants, you could buy aquarium safe adhesive and glue some gravel to them, it might help keep them down. Or, you could just replace them. I got so sick of having to re-arrange my tank everytime I did a gravel vac. I have since replaced my fake plants with ones that have heavy, gravel looking bottoms so that they stay down on their own and blend in with the tank. OR, you could buy rocks with holes in the middle and thread the plant through the hole, I have a few plastic plants with plastic bases that I really liked and keep them in place that way. I use what is called rainbow rock at my LFS, I think I actually bought it at Petco.

Using the ceramic balls would be a great idea. I'm not sure about the exact setup of the filter you have, but all I use in my filters (and many other people on here do too) is sponges that you rinse out in tank water with every water change. They do not need to be replaced. Carbon is really not necessary to use all the time, plus it can get expensive to buy those filter refills all the time!! At the very least, don't replace all your filter components at once, stagger them so that something always has bacteria while the other is being replaced.

I like to have my water level so that it is very quiet, but still splashes a little for surface agitation, but there is no "right" way.

See if you can't find/order biospira. It can be expensive, but will cycle your tank in no time!! Or try hardware stores for the amonia, I've heard that finding the stuff without additives can be tricky. And I back you up on the fishless decision. I unknowingly did a fishy cycle a while back and it is a pain to constantly do water changes to keep the fish alive and healthy! I wouldn't recommend "feeder" fish. Regardless of what they are, they still suffer when subjected to poor water quality.

A ph of 7.4 is fine, there would be no need to alter that, you just might want to take a little more time acclimating the fish to your tank in case there is a difference so that they have a little more time to adjust. In most cases, chemicals (even to treat disease) do more harm than good. The only thing I add to my tank is a good dechlorinator!

By the way, do you know what kind of fish you would like to get for your tank? You sound very eager to do everything correctly, but getting inappropriate fish is one of the biggest beginner mistakes. I have a 180g tank now to pay for my "mistake" :laugh: (I bought bala sharks!!)

[Larissa]

well, I won't be able to answer all of your questions but hopefully I can help some. First of all, I would not have guessed that english is a second language for you. Okay, about the filter, I don't have a whisper I have a tetra aqua-tech (which is from wal-mart) and it takes disposable filters. I personally change mine once a month because I also have an undergravel filter(UGF) and I use that as my biological filtration. I fill my tanks up to bottom of the trim at the top of the tank so my hang on back (HOB) filters usually are pretty quiet until some of my water starts to evaporate. Oh, I did get ammonia at Wal-Mart in the cleaners section. It said "ammonia" in big letters. Don't know why everyone has a hard time finding it b/c it's such a basic cleaner. You'd think they'd have it everywhere. Maybe try a home improvement store or a dollar store. You can cycle with fish if you want but I think it's better to go fishless. You can also try to find bio-spira and use that instead of the ammonia. No actual cycling necessary. When I vacuum my gravel, I always end up pulling my plants up (plastic) I just put them back when I'm finished. Not sure about the Mr. Clean, probably just rinse it over and over really well. I hope I was some help and I'm sure you'll get more good advice.

[OrionGirl]

1) & 2) Replacing the incandescents with the CF will be just dandy. you can use that light with no problems--the increased lighting would allow you to keep real plants if you want to give them a try, but even without live plants, you will be able to manage algae through a) controlled feedings--make sure you don't overfeed. and b) Water changes to remove the excess nutrients. I run something similar in a planted 5, and the algae has never gotten out of control in that tank. These bulbs also run much cooler, so it will reduce the heat problems you've noticed. The 50/50 would work as well, but it gives you a much bluer appearance to the tank.

3) You can use superglue to fill those little cups with rocks that will stay in place.

4) That will work, or you can just cut any filter sponge to fit inside the compartment.

5) Not really. Some current at the surface is needed to encourage gas exchange, but the amount created if the water is even with the lip of the filter is normally adequate. Overstocking will change this!

6) Check a pharmacy, Biglots, or Walgreens.

7) A total rinsing will be adequate. Test by rubbing the surface--if it still feels soapy, it's not well enough rinsed. Carbon removes a variety of dissolved compounds, bothorganic and inorganic. However, it has a limited useful life. The more it's adsorbing, the shorter time it will work.

8) Some locations don't have clubs. I live in one of them, you may as well. Fortunately, the internet allows us to interact. :)

[Hannys_Papa]

First i would like to thank everyone who replied for their comprehensive and very helpful answers. Again i am impressed with the ammount of friendly and useful advice i received in such a short time. Awesome...

I cant believe i didnt think of "glueing" some gravel to the bottom of the plants and make them stay down. Duh... lol I will either do that or try the "hole in rock" solution - if i can find any suitable rocks.

Now before i go on i would like to mention that even though i havent even set up my 10G i am already "planning" for a bigger setup (~30G) a few months down the road. Thats why what might sound "cheap" (modifying filters, plants) right now is basically just my way of staying within a tight budget and saving money for the bigger tank but then getting the right products from the beginning using my by then collected experience and all your highly appreciated help and suggestions.

I think to modify the whisper filter i will use this (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=30201&category_id=2583&pcid1=1965) or this (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=24615&category_id=2583&pcid1=1965) or a combination of both for added (and more stabil) biological filtration. Hope it'll work.

Unfortunalety BioSpera seems impossible to find in my area so i'll have to stick with the slower fishless ammonia cycle - but its ok i am patient.

I will also "treat" the 5G "soap tank" with a nice big filter bag full of carbon - and let it run for a few weeks - then throw the carbon and filter out and start over - hopefully that will take care of any soap that might've been left and could endanger the wellbeing of a betta.

To answer a question that was brought up - i live in upstate NY. I havent found any aquarium clubs nearby - some are 50+ miles away and with the current gas prices i guess i have to stick with getting my information from you. Considering the quality of advice i feel i am in good hands.

Now the only thing i have to figure out is where to get fish - the LFS is extremely limited when it comes to choice.

When it comes to fish - like i said i am still very uncertain. But i really want to make sure to only add very few and small fish - i really dont want to overstock or end up having to buy bigger tanks (even though as said in the beginning that might happen anyways) because i bought the wrong fish.

Now i hope that you could give me some opinions on a few "products":

1) Fairly cheap algea scrubber - adequate ? (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19143;category_id=2927;pcid 1=3347;pcid2=)

2) Battery gravel cleaner (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19139&category_id=2001&pcid1=3347)

3) 50W heater for the 10G that shuts off when not completely covered by water - good idea? (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=31224&category_id=1733&pcid1=3231)

4) 25W heat for the 5G acrylic - would it work ? Or better a different design/ lower wattage ? (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=32382&category_id=1733&pcid1=3231)

5) basically an option to 4) better ? (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=32352;category_id=1733;pcid 1=3231;pcid2=)

6) Read about this product often in connection with sick fish. Worth having some at hand ? (http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=28157&category_id=3443&pcid1=2233)

If i make an online order from big Als - should i get several different medications for the most common disease ahead of time to "have incase sh*t happens" ? They are a lot cheaper there than locally...

Many thanks again for all your help.

[Kasakato]

I dont have time to read the other posts but I can help you with the equipment.

1) Ya that's a good one. A sponge and your arm is even better.

2) Not really needed. Its best to use a normal one and a bucket ( http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19131;category_id=2001;pcid 1=3347;pcid2= ). Or even better; a Python that gets rid of the bucket: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=19123;category_id=2001;pcid 1=3347;pcid2=

3) Kinda "cheep" and isn't the best one. One of the best ones is this: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=30601;category_id=1733;pcid 1=3231;pcid2=

4) This will be perfect: http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/product.xml?product_id=28857;category_id=1733;pcid 1=3231;pcid2=

5) Some people have luck with Hydro, some dont.

6) I would not advise you to keep meds on hand, They can expire and be no good when you really need them. In the end, its expensive.

[Holly9937]

I would suggest checking out ebay and local ads in the meantime to keep your eye out for a bigger tank, you can get great deals if you catch someone who just really wants to get rid of a tank.

Try www.drsfostersmith.com for stuff also. I've ordered from them.
I bought a small heater for a 2.5 gallon tank. It looks like a tiny heating pad that sticks to the glass. I do however like the idea of a heater that turns off when not submerged. I have a friend who has broken 2 by doing water changes and forgetting to unplug the heater first.

A special algae scrubber is not really necessary, but if you don't get a fish tank one, be very careful what you put in the tank. Someone on here had a whole tank die on them b/c they used a kitchen sponge, not realizing it had antibacterial and other agents in it.

I personally didn't like the python I ordered, between the angle between the sink and my tank, and the weak water pressure, it was way too slow. I like the good old fashioned gravity tpye ones. Plus, if you look into it, I think you can make a very cheap DIY one with tubing and something attached to the end to sift through the gravel.

I have melafix, but I never use it. It seems like a large water change is just as good melafix. And salt is the only "med" I would buy just in case. It can clear up alot and is much more gentle on the fish than many of the meds are. Check out the ich and salt articles in the article section at the top of the page.

Also, keep in mind a larger tank can be much easier to maintain than a smaller one. Water changes are easier, temp. doesn't have to be exact b/c the amount of water replaced is smaller in relation to the rest of the tank, it takes longer for toxins to build up, you have more fish choice, less aggression b/c everyone has more room, etc. So, while you will learn alot with the smaller tank, IMO a larger tanks is easier to care for

[jaylin]

Python, non-enthusiasts ... I love my python. You can get around slow drainage by attaching the thing to the outdoor hose. Actually, I have to because none of the addapters fit any of the fixtures in my house. I take the screen out and hang mine out the window ... the neighbors think I'm nuts ... but I think they're just nosey.

Don't buy scrubbers, cleaners, medicine, chemicals any of that stuff unless you have a specific reason to. Some of that stuff actually has a shelf life and will expire before you use it. More than likely, you'll have whatever it is you need to clean your tank laying around your house someplace already.

As far as fish ... depending on the LFS, you can get them to order you what you want. PetSmart, PetCo ... they won't do it because all their fish go to a central location first, then get sent out to the stores, but little round the corner shops normally will. They may charge you a little more for the fish, but if it's something you really want it's worth it. Or, you can buy fish online. I've never done this and I've heard mixed opinions on this. Or, you can ask around here. Or, you can do like I do and drive to the next town.

[jaylin]

Oh, and I totally forgot to say that I'm of the camp that doesn't believe in fishless cycling. Feeders work fine, but if you have an idea of what fish you want to have, pick the hardiest of those and start with that. I've started and restarted a lot of tanks over the years and I don't think you get as complete a cycle going fishless. I always see two spikes when I cycle - one when I add the first fish and one once they've cycled and I add a few more. This holds true even if I cycle with ammonia first. I'll still get an ammonia spike with the first fish and then again when I add a few more.

After a second spike, I've never seen ammonia unless there was something up with the tank - like the time I had a fish die in one of the decorations. It was a tall mountain like thing and the fish got stuck way up at the top. We looked for him for days, even checking inside the mountain thing, but he was stuck good. The ammonia problem went away as soon as we removed the mess.

That's just my opinion.

[zazz]

Hi, I don't know where upstate you are but if you are wihin driving distance of Tonowanda ( near Buffalo) you are in luck. there is a terrific LFS there called
The Fish Place. It is worth quite a drive.
1) looks adequate. Not necessary.
2) again, not necessary a regular syphon operated gravel vacuum is fine.
3)4)5) I imagine Kas knows what he is talking about.
6) Now I seem to be in the minority here. But melafix IS the one "medication" I keep around. Perhaps I am comfortable with it because i have used herbal tratments for years and years. It Is also the only 'medication' I have experience with and I have always had positive results.
The risk of keeping it around' just in case, I suppose, would be a temptation to over use it. I do NOT recomend throwing it in with out a specific appropriate reason to do so.
Clean water should be a constant state of a tank, not a 'treatment' and it does indeed prevent most problems. of course cleanER water should be the first thing to try when any problem does show up.
I am currently using heat and salt for the first time to treat ICH. many people recomend salt for many things, but from what i have read, I see no point in using it for anything but ICH.

RE lights. I used the compact flourescents on my tenG. I Think it was RTR, who explained that the '50 watts of light" measurement isnt relevant to fishtanks beCause, when people talk about watts /gallon, they are talking about watts in a flourescent bulb, not comparable wattage incandescent bulb. In other words, the compact flourescent would be providing you with approximately one watt per gallon. NOT too bright by any measure. I had low light plants survive at that level.
I use a sponge similar to the one you linked in my whisper HOB filter. I tore apart a supplied filter and used a rubber band to put the sponge onto the frame. i also use some quilting batting for additional mechanical filtration, sort of like the white outside of the whisper filters. Replacing monthly is not a good idea IMO.
RE the water fall effect: the fish MIGHT have a preference, watch to see. other than that it is up to you as far as I know.

[mishi8]

Oh, and I totally forgot to say that I'm of the camp that doesn't believe in fishless cycling. Feeders work fine, but if you have an idea of what fish you want to have, pick the hardiest of those and start with that. I've started and restarted a lot of tanks over the years and I don't think you get as complete a cycle going fishless. I always see two spikes when I cycle - one when I add the first fish and one once they've cycled and I add a few more. This holds true even if I cycle with ammonia first. I'll still get an ammonia spike with the first fish and then again when I add a few more.

Fishless cycling produces a fully complete cycle. If you dose with 4ppm ammonia and see the cycle through to completion, there should be no ammonia spike when finally adding all your fish. The bacterial colony will be more than adequate to handle the bioload.

[sands]

Hannas Papa-we're doing a very similar thing at my house.:)
I just started cycling a 10 gallon with a Whisper filter for the first time. I inherited the tank, and I'll no doubt need a bigger one if I'm successful in keeping the two small goldfish alive that I also inherited. Actually a girlfriend of my teenage son gave them to him as a present. :o I couldn't leave their care to him and watch them die, which they surely would have in a week or two given his schedule and prioritities. They're living in a 3 gallon Eclipse now - doing ok because we change a third of the water daily, but I'm anxious to get them into the bigger tank next month.
We're using the dead shrimp method of cycling that I read about because I couldn't find amonia either - I'm in southern cal and the stores I normally shop don't carry it.( I think that ACE hardward carries it, though, we just don't have one close by.) I hope the shrimp experiment works out. We're on day 3 and the water truned cloudy today with an ammonia reading of 1ppm. I used a sponge filter only in the box for these few days, but I put the carbon in today, thinking it might be better to have both in. I plan to remove the carbon after the tank cycles, but keep the little envelope that holds the carbon and fill it with another sponge or those little balls you're thinking of using. Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought with a rotting shrimp, the carbon filtering along witht the sponge might be a good combo. Thoughts on this, anyone?
If anyone reading this has had any experience with this method (shrimp) I'd love to hear about it. I was wondering how long to keep the shrimp in the tank. Do I need to keep it in until the nitrites are gone, or just until the ammonia is gone?
Also, I use the little syphon vacuum on the little tank that's basically a piece of clear plastic hose with a plastic head. It works great - don't see the need for any more power than it naturally produces. If anything, it takes the water out faster than I would like.

[jaylin]

Fishless cycling produces a fully complete cycle. If you dose with 4ppm ammonia and see the cycle through to completion, there should be no ammonia spike when finally adding all your fish. The bacterial colony will be more than adequate to handle the bioload.

So I've been told. It's never worked that way for me and I've have very few casualties cycling with fish. I'm not telling anyone they should cycle with fish. All I'm saying is that I've had better luck cycling with fish. ;)

[staceyanna]

I'd be interested in hearing about this as well...



We're using the dead shrimp method of cycling that I read about because I couldn't find amonia either - I'm in southern cal and the stores I normally shop don't carry it.( I think that ACE hardward carries it, though, we just don't have one close by.) I hope the shrimp experiment works out. We're on day 3 and the water truned cloudy today with an ammonia reading of 1ppm. I used a sponge filter only in the box for these few days, but I put the carbon in today, thinking it might be better to have both in. I plan to remove the carbon after the tank cycles, but keep the little envelope that holds the carbon and fill it with another sponge or those little balls you're thinking of using. Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought with a rotting shrimp, the carbon filtering along witht the sponge might be a good combo. Thoughts on this, anyone?

[OrionGirl]

Thoughts on using shrimp, or thoughts on adding carbon?

The shrimp will certainly work in terms of producing of ammonia. It will also create a really nasty odor...But you can remove the remains once you've hit about 4ppm ammonia. I'd would also plan on siphoning the area where the shrimp sat when you go to do the final water change to reduce nitrates.

In terms of carbon--eh. Shouldn't hurt the system. But, the bacteria will begin colonizing the carbon, so you'd be removing them when you pull the carbon out later, and for now, that's not really what you need. The carbon may help reduce the odor--a good thing--so my advice would be to keep the carbon in there, but plan on swapping it out for fresh every 2-3 days to prevent it from being colonized by the beneficial bacteria.

[sands]

Thanks for the advice, oriongirl. After I put the carbon in, the cloudiness cleared up the next day. Ammonia still at 1ppm - no smell so far. I will exchange the carbon out so that the bacteria will settle in the sponge and the carbon holder and other things instead of the carbon itself. I didn't realize that the carbon would be a place the bacteria would find habitable.
So you think if I remove the shrimp after the ammonia hits 4ppm the bacteria will
continue to grow?

[staceyanna]

I am a bit confused... I have a Whisper HOB power filter and it uses the loose carbon bits you buy in the big canister. So you take the carbon out and discard along WITH the filter envelop pad thing? Or do you just replace the old carbon for new carbon and put it in the same old filter bag?

[jaylin]

I don't always use carbon. Just when there's something really nasty that I want to take out of the water or after using medications (which I've really had very few occasions to use).

That said, I keep my filters until they fall apart. That's where all the good bacteria lives. While I'm doing water changes, I keep the filter running until I've removed enough water to get a little platic pitcher (for fish use only) under the lip of the filter, I remove the filter and catch any water that comes out while I'm removing the filter. (I do that because too many times I've removed the filter only to let a bunch of gook fall into the tank.) Then I allow enough water to go into the pitcher so I can swish the rest of the filter gook off the filter into the pitcher. I also replace the filter with the filter running and pitcher in place just in case it pushes more gook out.

I use a python so I can just siphon out the pitcher when I'm done or if need be, I can siphon out the gooky stuff and get more water from the tank to rinse the filter again. That's normally not a problem unless you don't rinse off your filter for a very long, long time. And ... you don't want to use tap water to rinse your filter because you can kill your bacteria. I say can because I have occastionally used tap water and been ok.

[OrionGirl]

Yes, removing the dead shrimp will be okay--there will still be bits you can't get (trust me--they tend to dissolve), producing more ammonia until you can stock the tank.

In terms of 'replacing the filter'--a lot will depend on what kind of filter you're running. But, I prefer to use nylon bags and sponges. The nylon bags can be filled with whatever media you want--chemical or biological, and sponges can be cut to fit into most media compartments, easily cleaned, and last for a long time. The Whisper and similar style media that combine carbon with a sponge or mesh are my least favorite, simply because they complicate the process. You can't remove one without removing the other, meaning the carbon soon becomes useless, and replacing the whole thing means losing all the bacteria, too. So--I don't use those types of media, but rather cut a sponge to fit, and then use the nylon baggies for supplemental media.

[mishi8]

The Whisper and similar style media that combine carbon with a sponge or mesh are my least favorite, simply because they complicate the process. You can't remove one without removing the other, meaning the carbon soon becomes useless, and replacing the whole thing means losing all the bacteria, too. So--I don't use those types of media, but rather cut a sponge to fit, and then use the nylon baggies for supplemental media.

I've found the Whisper/Top Filters to be limiting with their media as well (traded mine for a Aquaclear filter). However, you can open the filters, shake the carbon out, and replace with either new carbon or other media like floss or foam.

[sands]

Yes, I know what you mean about the whisper. I added a sponge along side of the bag with the carbon so I hope that helps with the bacteria build-up. Today I emptied the old carbon out of the cloth bag and put in a bit of new carbon, and put it back in. I'm on day 10, the amonia is at 3.0 and the nitrites are just beginning to show up on the test. The shrimp is still there, looking fuzzy and weird, but not smelling at all, thank goodness! I also added a new silk plant, and plan to put another rock in tomorrow.
I'm hoping the tank will be ready in three weeks. My little goldies are growing, and I'm really eager to move them to their new home!