I have so much to learn! Please help...

Congrats on your new aquarium! It sound like you are having the same problems i did. For the water, make sure to have a regular water change, at least once a week. You could also get some water clear meds. There is some info. I know its not a lot, but maybe it will some help. If you have any more specific questions, just post. GOOD LUCK!!

Well i am by no means an expert when it comes to aquariums but i own a 10G "cheap" set aswell. It has a whisper filter also. I dont see anything wrong with it - it works fine. Yes the aquaclears (as an example) are better because you have seperate media chambers - and i am sure the whipser wont last as long (from what i read they fail relatively fast). BUT if its what you have right now just use it - it works as a filter just fine - and when it breaks replace it.
I dont know which whipser model it is - but the newer ones have an extra sponge in it besides the "bio bags". Mine doesnt so i added a biomax bag from an AQ mini into the whisper "bio bag" for some additional area for bacteria to grow on and (most importantly) not to lose the good bacteria with a filter change. That way you pull out the biomax media bag when the bio bag is trashed - and put it into the next (new) one. You also dont need to replace the filter bags as often as they say - just swish them out in old tank water (while you are doing water changes.... in the bucket with tank water). Replace them when they are so worn they fall apart.
I think with the rest of the equipment its basically the same - just replace with quality parts when the originals fail.

I leave the other Qs to the professionals.

OK I'll try to answer all your questions.

Yes, which Whisper filters if you're frequently changing out the filter bag you are prolonging the cycle, but not stopping it completely. I usually just wash mine out and when they get nasty I replace them.

Yes, taking gravel from one tank will jump start the cycle in a new tank. You can also take filter media and decor and that will help as well. Anything the beneficial bacteria can attach to can be transferred to jump start a new tanks cycle.

I also don't recommend using any sort of chemicles to clear up the water. Initially a lot of times you will get cloudy water and this may be a sign of a bacterial bloom. Which is a good thing. For that matter I don't recommend AmmoLock either. Water changes will help that just fine.

Gravel vaccuuming doesn't really hurt your cycle. The beneficial bacteria is going to be concentrated mostly on your filter media, what you lose by gravel vaccuuming is necessary to keep the tank clean and healthy for it's inhabitants.

Hope that helps! Sorry if I didn't get everything.

Curtis

1. everything you got should be fine, except for the test strips. liquid kits are more accurate, easier to read (most of the time) and last longer as they have more uses per bottle. plus you don't have to waste a whole strip when you only want to test for one thing. However - I am not familiar with convict cichlids so i can't say whether or not 10g will be an appropriate size for that kind of fish. The Dempsey will get far far too big for a 10.

2. if the filter bag gets dirty, just swish it around in old tank water after you do a water change. that will get rid of the gunk without losing the bacteria. if you get bad buildup on it, use a toothbrush to scrape some of it off. continue with your gravel vac'ing, that won't hurt anything and it's better to keep the tank clean.

3. you can hang the 5g filter (with the old filter bag/cartridge) on the back of the 10g to give the cycle a jumpstart. That will bring you the most benefit since it has the maximum amount of bacteria. If the filters use the same size cartridges, then you can just switch the one on the 5 over to the filter on the 10. If you want to use the gravel as well, you can vac it very well and swish it around inside of the tank to get rid of a lot of the organic matter, then net it out. Or simply skim off the topmost layer (which is what gets the most oxygen and therefore is where almost all of the bacteria that can be found in the gravel will reside) and either add it to your new tank if you want that kind of gravel in there or put it in a clean foot of pantyhose and suspend it in the tank near the filter.

You will want to do as many and as large of water changes as it takes to get the ammonia and nitrite readings down to 0 or very close. You may be cycled already if you have nitrate readings (nitrate is not bad to have, unless you have a heavily planted tank they will not be 0 in a cycled tank). Your tank just may be going through small cyles due to the changing of the filter bags. When rinsing the filter cartridges you want to do so in old tank water, not tap water, the chlorine will kill off your good bacteria!!

Here is the species profile for the dempsey, You will definately need to upgrade pretty soon if you want to keep this guy!! I'm not sure if a convict and a dempsey can coexist but if they can I would not go any less than a 55g for both, and they should be the only 2 fish in the tank


Jack Dempsey
Cichlasoma octofasciatum (Regan, 1903)


Temperment Sociability Min. Tank Availability Area
Aggressive Solitary 45 gallons Common Middle


The Jack Dempsey is an aggressive, pugnacious cichlid which originates from Central America. The fish was named after a former heavyweight boxing champion based solely on its demeanor. The Jack Dempsey is an extremely hardy fish that can provide enjoyment for any level of hobbyist, so long as the caretaker is willing to provide the fish with the basic essentials.

The color of the Jack Dempsey changes greatly depending upon age, mood, and stress levels. A healthy young fish should be a brownish-tan with a black spot on each side of its body, and one on each side of the base of the tail. Dark stripes line the dorsal side of the fish, while blue to greenish-yellow spots are scattered around their scales. Adults should range from brown to black base color, the spots and stripes becoming less visible if not gone, and the brightly colored spots coat the body. Stressed, weak, or sick fish will be lighter in color, and the spots less visible.

The Dempsey is definitely not for the community tank. While they may be kept with other fish of similar size, the Dempsey is best kept in a species tank. Their aggressiveness should never be underestimated, and increases largely during spawning.

The Dempsey tank should have a thick layer of gravel, 4-5", with rocks of various sizes and caves for hiding places. Due to the digging nature of this fish, any plants which you might have in the tank should be well rooted, and do not be surprised if they are torn up every once in a while. Pre-soaked clay flower pots make for wonderful hiding places, as well as a good place for them to lay their eggs.

This fish is not usually very picky about what it eats, although it may take some time for them to adjust to a different food they are changing from a consistent diet. It is best to vary their diet, alternating between pellets, guppies, shrimp, lettuce, earthworms, snails, and most other crustaceans. This will provide them with the nutrients they need to become healthy, colorful adults.

Because these fish are from the area of Central America, they should have mildly hard water, with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Although water conditions are not as strict as with fish such as discus, they will be happier and healthier with the right water chemistry.

Jack Dempseys spawn in the usual Cichlid fashion, the female laying her eggs on carefully cleaned rocks. The adults are model parents and both guard and care for the young.

Sexing the Jack Dempsey becomes increasingly difficult the younger the fish is. The most obvious ways to tell are with the male having longer and more pointed dorsal and anal fins, a longer body, and less blue-green coloration on the gill plate. The body of the female is more squat than that of the male, and the dorsal and anal fins are shorter as well.

A note about the ammo lock. No it will not slow down your cycle. It simply locks the ammonia into a state that is not harmful to your fish. This being said, your test strips and liquid test kits read the total ammonia in your tank. They will still register that there is a toxic amount of ammonia in your tank, even when there is little to none do to using the ammo lock. In order to get a "true" ammonia reading while useing ammo lock you will need to purchanse an ammo alert, they cost around 8 dollars and most pet stores carry them or will order them for you if you ask them to. The ammo alert just suctions onto the side of your tank in the water and you leave it there forever, well maybe not forever. This ammo alert wil also do away with the need to use a test kit for ammonia, you just look at it and do whatever is necesary if it shows your ammonia is high. I don't believe in using lots of chemicals in your tanks either, however there comes a point in time when you either use a chemical, or lose your fish. Chemicals are made to help you if they are needed, just don't rely on them. Do your weekly maitenance, or if just starting an aquarium your daily ( somtimes several times a day lol) maintenance. The chemicals are out there for a reason, and its not just to get your money for the most part. When I used ammo lock onmyaquarium, the toatl ammonia did not go down to 0 until about 6 weeks after my tank was cycled. I am thinking that either a huge amount of ammonia was locked out, or it is not true what the bottle says about the locked ammonia being readily removed by your biological filter. Whichever it was doesn't really matter to me seeing how my tank is now cycled, fish are doing great, and my ammo alert shows no ammonia, and there are 0 nitrites in my tank. Have a great day!!