nitrate readings low -- what to do? and a few other newbie plant ?s

tfish

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Feb 6, 2003
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I tested the water on my 55 gal and found my nitrate levels to be just 5ppm. I know that is too low. How can I increase this safely? I have experimented with different things (adding KNO3 via stump remover) but have only spurred on algea growth. Any tips?

Here is more info on my water:
pH: 8.2 :(
KH: 5
GH: 12
Nitrites: 0ppm


Also, my water is quite hard. Is this a huge problem? I was given the suggestion to do future water changes with 1/2 tap and 1/2 distilled. Good idea?

Finally, I know my pH is pretty high and with my KH reading, these indicate low CO2 concentration. I am considering doing DIY CO2 using two 2L pop bottles that I will change alternately each week. (Can't yet afford pressured system.) Will this be sufficient...and safe? My main concern is the drastic pH shift. Last time I tried DIY CO2 (with just one bottle!), my pH went from 8.0 to 7.2 in a matter of hours! Not good for my fish!

Okay, that is all! If anyone can give me tips on (1) adding nitrates safely and easily, (2) changing water hardness -- if even needed, or (3) introducing CO2 safely I would really appreciate it!

OH, and here are some more specs, if needed:

Lighting: 110 watts (I am actually transitioning from 30 watts to 110 very slowly! I have all of the lights on but am blocking them a bit using strips of tissue paper. I started with four stips and take one off each week. I'm currently down to 2.)

Plants: 1 large amazon sword, ~8 plantlets from the sword, 4 bunches of rotala rotundifola, 4 bunches of bacopa monnieri, ~8 crypts, 4 bunches of giant hairgrass (experiment), 6 nice sized java fern, ~8 corkscrew vals, and 5 bunches of micro sword

Fish: congo tetras, blookfin tetras, danios, mollies, ottos

Thanks again!!
 
It's too early in the morning to get too detailed but I don't think the ph shift with the DIY will hurt your fish. My change after a water change is probably as much and no problems over the last several months. Keep the plants growing seems to be the secret. If they aren;t, then the algae take over instead.
 
Until you add some sort of fertilzation using CO2 gas, don't worry about the NO3. 5ppm of NO3 is fine. But there's a great deal of problems associated with NO3 test kits, for the most part they are inaccurate in the ranges that plant tanks need.
Lamott test kits are not but they cost 60$ or so.

You have a fair amount of light on a 55gal. Your tank is not limited from light in any way, nor likely nutrients but CO2 you most certainly are.

Plants need 3 things, light, CO2 and nutrients.
In low light and non CO2 tanks you can get away with not adding CO2 since the growth rates are slow but you also need far more patience, less plant choices etc.

As you increase the light, you need more and more CO2 to supply the plant's needs.

*Adding CO2 at low light really improves growth a great deal also which many many many people forget and don't seem to understand very well at all. You the benefits of both approaches with few of the problems.

As far as you tap water, KH of 5 and a GH of 12 is excellent. Soft water does not grow plants anymore than hardwater. Plant simply care about CO2, nutrients and light. They don't care if the water is hard or soft.

As far as your pH going from 8.0 to 7.2 in a few hours: This happens in nature in even larger amounts in shallow lakes. Daily fluxes of 2-3 whole pH units are common.

You will need to knock the pH down using only CO2 gas to 6.7 to 6.8 and keep it there for the entire lighting cycle for you KH of 5.
That's all you do for that. No monkeying with RO, DI, distilled water, worrying about pH "swings" etc.

For NO3: Add 1/4 teaspoon each time will give an extra 4~5ppm of NO3 to your tank. Until you add the CO2 and get the pH is a decent range, don't mess with this. Once you do get the pH down, then you can add this amount about 2-3x a week. Also get some K2SO4 and trace mix like Flourish etc and some KH2PO4(all can be had at : www.litemanu.com).

CO2 is the main issue right now though.
Regards,
Tom Barr
 
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