nitrate, phosphate, iron, co2 test kits

O

orthikon

AC Members
Aug 22, 2005
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What test kits are you using for:

1) Nitrate?
2) Phosphate?
3) Iron?
4) CO2

For each of the answers can you post the scale please. Also is the color difference between the numbers obvious? If you could post a pic of the color charts (if you can do this with you master test kit as well pls) that would be great. Now I know that these kits are not that accurate but at least we could look for the best one out there.

I'm asking these questions since I am not quite satisfied with my tetra test (see pic). I'm looking for something with a smaller increment in scale with colors that are not too close of a shade to each other (see my ph test and ammonia). The Aquapharm master kit seems to be sufficient regarding the scale but I do not know the colors in it. Also the nitrate scale isn't sufficient for plants more detail in the 10-40 range would be best:

0ppm
5.0
10
20
40
80
160

DSCN1151.jpg


edit: I've decided to start a test kit FAQ so we can consolidate the info and help any future aquarists purchase their test kits.

Thanks.

-Jon
 
Last edited:
I only use a Hach NO3 test kit. The color differentials aren't great but they are built into the test tube so I like that. I also like the premeasured powder packets. I have also tested it against a fixed solution and it was accurate. My AP kits were way off when I tested them.

Bill
 
way off which way, stcyrwm?
 
stcyrwm said:
It was measuring about twice the actual amount.

Bill
Click to expand...

thats good to know.. i'm not suprised, and actually a little relieved.

thanks for the info...

keep up the good fight, orthikon. i wish i had a digcam.
 
Interesting info you got there stcyrwm. Mind if I add that info to the FAQ

Where did you get the Hach test kit? --> is that the expensive one comparable to Lamotte?

edit: here's the the test kit FAQ

I still haven't updated it since I'm quite busy with school. Right now i'm still compiling info.
 
Orthikon,

Feel free to use my info in any way that is helpful. The kit I use is not the one that is comparable in cost to the LaMotte kit. It cost $20 plus shipping and then another $8 if you want to buy a fixed solution of 15ppm NO3 to test against.

I got the kit at "hach.com". You can find it by going to advanced search and typing in the catalog number which is 1403700. The catalog number for the 15ppm NO3 fixed solution is 2415132.

You can also make your own fixed solution if you want but I was lazy and felt like having a professional reference point was worth the $8. If anyone needed help with that we could give instructions on how to do it. I think having the fixed reference point is probably the most important part of doing testing.

Bill
 
I'll get one of those test kits to compare with my AP test. Yes, I agree with your statement on having a fixed refernce point. Have you considered the possibility of a bad test kit?

Looks like I'll be spending more on test kits rather than fish. :clap:
 
orthikon said:
I'll get one of those test kits to compare with my AP test. Yes, I agree with your statement on having a fixed refernce point. Have you considered the possibility of a bad test kit?

Looks like I'll be spending more on test kits rather than fish. :clap:
Click to expand...

Yes, I get that it could be a bad test kit. I certainly don't mean to malign AP. They seem like a good company in general. I think the main thing is to always check all kits against a fixed reference solution. I think bad test kits are a chronic problem though - not incidental.

It is not uncommon to see someone posting that they have plenty of NO3, PO4 or CO2 according to their test kits when it is unlikely from their fishload or what they are dosing that they could possibly have that much. The result is BGA in the case of low NO3, GSA in the case of low PO4 and BBA in the case of low CO2 (in high light tanks).

I think folks should reduce or eliminate their reliance on test kits as much as possible. With 50% water changes weekly you can get a pretty good sense of your levels based simply on what you are putting into the tank. I don't like doing that many water changes so I test once or twice a month NO3 only. I then dose my KNO3 based on that for nitrogen and potassium. Then I dose KH2PO4 and traces in ratio to that, although I usually do a minimum amount even if I don't add any KNO3. I also adjust my KH2PO4 up if I'm seeing more GSA or green dust than I want.

Bill
 
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