Water Circulation/Filtration in Custom 120Gal tank

D

Dkevdog

Fish Fan
Dec 22, 2005
11
0
0
Orange, CA
www.socalrattlinrams.com
Hello All- First post, go easy :help:. I am not new to Aquaria, I've had several tanks over the years (both fresh and salt) but it has been about 6 years and I missed them, so I'm starting a new. PLus, I was never an expert at any of them, although I had pretty good success.

OK! I am having a custom acrylic tank made, a pinensula that will serve as a "divider" if you will. The tank will be 48x24x24 (about 116 gallons). The tanks' "back" will be one of the short 24" sides, and the tank will protrude out from the wall 48" from there. Expensive, but I think it will be worth it as it will offer some nice viewing from both of the long 48" sides.

I am going to build my own sump/filter system, and will have a built in overflow box made in the tank. I eventually want to set this tank up as a reef tank, but will be doing a Cichlid tank for now. I am having the tank predrilled for the overflows, and was going to have two 1.25" Overflows with two 3/4" returns. Overkill maybe, But I don't want to limit my options for future use. I was wondering if you think that is adequate or if I should include any addition holes for addtional accessories?

Also, given that the back of the tank is the short side, how should I go about returning the water from the sump? Using a spray bar? should I use two returns or bars at each of the longest ends of the tanks? I am not planning on using UG filter plates (as I have in the past) so I am not sure about what requirements are necessary when using a sump for circulation in the tank. Any advice or suggestions is appreciated.

Thanks,
Kev
 
Last edited:
You could run the return line across the top just under the casement, so it returns opposite your intake. Create a gentle, tankwide current that way. Spraybars are a good idea, though creates a little more noise.
Returning the water at the ground floor of the tank is best in my opinion. That helps keep the water at the bottom turned over (often missed) and if the current moves down the long way to get to the overflow, you'd ensure you're turning over more water that way, instead of the same water over and over. Just a thought...
 
Halo- I like your idead about circulating the water at the ground level, I was thinking along the same theory. What if I were to run a return under the substrate to get to the opposite side of the tank (opposite the overflow). Are spray bars effective below the surface?

Kev
 
Yes, spray bars work well submerged. One thing to make sure of is that the opening is raised above the substrate enough to prevent it from falling into the pipe and clogging it--and this can be a problem if you have fish that will dig. I ran 2 65's with the returns very close to the substrate, and did have a problem with one fish that would bury the piping (I had holes drilled all along the bar, so the water was returned the full length of the tank). It was easy to fix--just added a raised piece on one end so the sand would spray out and away from the opening. I'd also add some powerheads along the length of the tank to improve circulation throughout the system.
 
Oriongirl- Sounds good. How big should the holes be on the spray bar? I am planning on using a pump rated at about 700 Gph and splitting the return.

Also, any advice on the bulkheads? Do you think I have enough or should I include another dry bulkead for passing accessories through?
 
I think we used holes that were about 3/8 inch diameter, and then spaced about every 2-3 inches. But, use water you want--the bigger the holes, the slower the water will be as it comes out. Smaller holes will give you faster moving water (assuming the same number of holes, of course). The only concern I had was making sure they wouldn't be blocked up, so if you'll have snails and such, keep in mind that little snails may go in, grow too big to come out and eventually reduce flow.

Depends--I would feel safer having a good canopy that would allow you to run cords and such above the water line for most of the way. But, it depends on how much clearance you'll have along the wall-facing side, cord length, canopy style, etc.
 
Here are a couple of images of both the fungal infection and another of the yellow lab with a bacterial- If I am correct at least....


my.php
[/URL][/IMG]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
AquariaCentral.com
Top Bottom